Via ferrata
Encyclopedia
Cable
A cable is two or more wires running side by side and bonded, twisted or braided together to form a single assembly. In mechanics cables, otherwise known as wire ropes, are used for lifting, hauling and towing or conveying force through tension. In electrical engineering cables are used to carry...
s, stemple
Stemple
A stemple is a form of wooden step used in mining, caving and mountaineering, usually a wooden bar set between notches in rock walls for climbing purposes, often one of a series forming a ladder.Webster's Dictionary says of the word:...
s, ladder
Ladder
A ladder is a vertical or inclined set of rungs or steps. There are two types: rigid ladders that can be leaned against a vertical surface such as a wall, and rope ladders that are hung from the top. The vertical members of a rigid ladder are called stringers or stiles . Rigid ladders are usually...
s, and bridge
Bridge
A bridge is a structure built to span physical obstacles such as a body of water, valley, or road, for the purpose of providing passage over the obstacle...
s. The use of these allows otherwise isolated routes to be joined to create longer routes which are accessible to people with a wide range of climbing abilities. Walkers and climbers can follow vie ferrate without needing to use their own ropes and belays, and without the risks associated with unprotected scrambling and climbing. They are found in a number of European countries, including Italy
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...
, Germany
Germany
Germany , officially the Federal Republic of Germany , is a federal parliamentary republic in Europe. The country consists of 16 states while the capital and largest city is Berlin. Germany covers an area of 357,021 km2 and has a largely temperate seasonal climate...
, England
England
England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental...
, Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
, Wales
Wales
Wales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and the island of Great Britain, bordered by England to its east and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It has a population of three million, and a total area of 20,779 km²...
, France
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
, Austria
Austria
Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country of roughly 8.4 million people in Central Europe. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the...
, Slovenia
Slovenia
Slovenia , officially the Republic of Slovenia , is a country in Central and Southeastern Europe touching the Alps and bordering the Mediterranean. Slovenia borders Italy to the west, Croatia to the south and east, Hungary to the northeast, and Austria to the north, and also has a small portion of...
, Romania
Romania
Romania is a country located at the crossroads of Central and Southeastern Europe, on the Lower Danube, within and outside the Carpathian arch, bordering on the Black Sea...
, Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
, Spain
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
, Sweden
Sweden
Sweden , officially the Kingdom of Sweden , is a Nordic country on the Scandinavian Peninsula in Northern Europe. Sweden borders with Norway and Finland and is connected to Denmark by a bridge-tunnel across the Öresund....
, Norway
Norway
Norway , officially the Kingdom of Norway, is a Nordic unitary constitutional monarchy whose territory comprises the western portion of the Scandinavian Peninsula, Jan Mayen, and the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard and Bouvet Island. Norway has a total area of and a population of about 4.9 million...
and a few places in the United States
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
, Canada
Canada
Canada is a North American country consisting of ten provinces and three territories. Located in the northern part of the continent, it extends from the Atlantic Ocean in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west, and northward into the Arctic Ocean...
, Iran
Iran
Iran , officially the Islamic Republic of Iran , is a country in Southern and Western Asia. The name "Iran" has been in use natively since the Sassanian era and came into use internationally in 1935, before which the country was known to the Western world as Persia...
, Malaysia and Singapore
Singapore
Singapore , officially the Republic of Singapore, is a Southeast Asian city-state off the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, north of the equator. An island country made up of 63 islands, it is separated from Malaysia by the Straits of Johor to its north and from Indonesia's Riau Islands by the...
. The first via ferrate were built in the Dolomite
Dolomites
The Dolomites are a mountain range located in north-eastern Italy. It is a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extends from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley...
mountain region of Italy during the First World War, to aid the movement of the Italian mountain infantry
Alpini
The Alpini, , are the elite mountain warfare soldiers of the Italian Army. They are currently organized in two operational brigades, which are subordinated to the Alpini Corps Command. The singular is Alpino ....
. The world's highest via ferrata, at 3,800 metres, is located at Mount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu is a prominent mountain on the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. It is located in the East Malaysian state of Sabah and is protected as Kinabalu National Park, a World Heritage Site. Kinabalu is the tallest peak in Borneo's Crocker Range and is the tallest mountain in the Malay...
in the state of Sabah
Sabah
Sabah is one of 13 member states of Malaysia. It is located on the northern portion of the island of Borneo. It is the second largest state in the country after Sarawak, which it borders on its southwest. It also shares a border with the province of East Kalimantan of Indonesia in the south...
, Malaysia.
In English the plural can be written either vie ferrate or via ferratas. The German
German language
German is a West Germanic language, related to and classified alongside English and Dutch. With an estimated 90 – 98 million native speakers, German is one of the world's major languages and is the most widely-spoken first language in the European Union....
name is Klettersteig, plural Klettersteige.
History in the Dolomites
In 1914 the DolomitesDolomites
The Dolomites are a mountain range located in north-eastern Italy. It is a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extends from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley...
were part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Austria was part of the Central Powers
Central Powers
The Central Powers were one of the two warring factions in World War I , composed of the German Empire, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Ottoman Empire, and the Kingdom of Bulgaria...
during the First World War. In 1915, Italy joined the alliance of Britain, France and Russia and declared war on the Central Empires. Austria’s troops were heavily committed in Russia and it immediately withdrew to a defensive line which ran through the Dolomites. Until the end of 1917 the Austrians (supported by troops from Southern Germany) and the Italians fought a ferocious war in the mountains of the Dolomites; not only against each other but also against the hostile conditions. In the particularly cold winter of 1916 thousands of troops died of cold, falls or avalanches.
Both sides tried to gain control of the peaks to site observation posts and field guns. They also tried to create and control tunnels below the peaks to attack from there (see images below from Lagazuoi region). To help troops to move about at high altitude in very difficult conditions permanent lines were fixed to rock faces and ladders were installed so that troops could ascend steep faces. These were the first vie ferrate.
Trenches, dugouts and other relics of the First World War can be found alongside many vie ferrate. There is an extensive open air museum on 5 Torri, and around Lagazuoi, where very heavy fighting took place.
This wartime network of vie ferrate has been restored, with many new routes added. Steel cables have replaced ropes. Iron ladders and metal rungs (stemples) anchored into the rock have taken the place of the flimsy wooden structures used by the troops. These aids are now maintained by the Club Alpino Italiano
Club Alpino Italiano
The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment...
(CAI) or Italian Alpine Club
Club Alpino Italiano
The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment...
. An extensive network of mountain refugios exists in the Dolomites, many of which provide accommodation. By using ordinary hiking paths and via ferrata coupled with overnight stays in the refugios, large sections of the Dolomites can be traversed at high altitudes. There are also many hotels in the valleys supporting winter and summer tourism. The larger ski lifts are open during summer to provide fast access to these high level routes.
Dolomites
- Grade 1 - 29 routes
- Grade 2 - 25 routes
- Grade 3 - 14 routes
- Grade 4 - 7 routes
- Grade 5 - 5 routes
For any route, other than the easiest, climbers are advised to wear special via ferrata self-belay kit which is designed to cope with the particular requirements of the iron ways.
The Dolomites are divided into two main regions. To the west are the smaller Brenta Dolomites. This has many excellent vie ferrate, particularly around the town of Madonna di Campiglio
Madonna di Campiglio
Madonna di Campiglio is a village and a ski resort in northeast Italy. It is a frazione of the comune of Pinzolo. The village lies in the Val Rendena at an altitude of 1,522 m...
. The famous Sentiero Bocchette Alte and the Via delle Bocchette Centrali can both be reached by lifts from Madonna di Campiglio. The greater part of the Dolomites, and most of the via ferrata, lie to the east, between the A22/E45 and A23/E55 roads. The dominant geographical feature of this area is the Sella Massif and the main town is Cortina D'Ampezzo
Cortina d'Ampezzo
Cortina d'Ampezzo is a town and comune in the southern Alps located in Veneto, a region in Northern Italy. Located in the heart of the Dolomites in an alpine valley, it is a popular winter sport resort known for its ski-ranges, scenery, accommodations, shops and après-ski scene...
.
Probably the most unusual via ferrata in the eastern part of the Dolomites is VF Lagazuoi Tunnels. Fighting for control of Mount Lagazuoi in World War I, Austrian and Italian troops built a series of tunnels through the mountains. The aim of each side was to tunnel close to the enemy and detonate explosives to destroy their fortifications. Some of the tunnels have been restored, with a via ferrata following the route of one of these. It is now possible to descend into the mountain by following the VF Lagazuoi Tunnels route.
The most popular via ferrata in the Dolomites is believed to be VF Ivano Dibona
VF Ivano Dibona
Sentiero ferrato Ivano Dibona is a walking route along the Zurlon ridge, the main crest on Cristallo, a mountain group in the Italian Dolomites, northeast of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the province of Belluno, Veneto, Italy.-History:...
, involving a traverse of the main Monte Cristallo ridge. The complete route takes about eight hours. The day starts at the base of the Rio Gere lift system with a ride on two lifts to reach the Lorenzi Refugio at 2950 metres. The traverse starts at this point, trends mostly downhill, and passes several World War I fortifications.
The VF Bolver-Lugli (constructed in 1970 by mountain guide
Mountain guide
Mountain guides are specially trained and experienced mountaineers and professionals who are generally certified by an association. They are considered experts in mountaineering.-Skills:Their skills usually include climbing, skiing and hiking...
s from San Martino di Castrozza
San Martino di Castrozza
San Martino di Castrozza is a mountain resort in the Primiero valley in the Trentino province in Italy. The western part, with 428 inhabitants, is in the comune of Siror, the eastern, with 135, in Tonadico.- History :...
) takes climbers of the Cimon della Pala
Cimon della Pala
Cimon della Pala, sometimes called Cimone and The Matterhorn of the Dolomites , is the best-known peak of the Pale di San Martino group, in the Dolomites, northern Italy...
as far as a bivouac at 3,005 metres. Once there, only the "Variation for the Summit" remains, to attain the summit itself at a height of 3,184 metres.
Other via ferratas in Italy
- Via ferrata Burrone Giovannelli also known as Burrone di mezzacorona, a MezzocoronaMezzocoronaMezzocorona , until 1902 Mezzotedesco is a comune in Trentino in the northern Italian region Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, located about 15 km north of the city of Trento....
, TrentoTrentoTrento is an Italian city located in the Adige River valley in Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol. It is the capital of Trentino... - Via ferrata Ernesto Che Guevara, on Monte CasaleMonte CasaleMonte Casale is a mountainous elevation on Sicily in Italy, reaching 910m above sea level, which formed part of the oldest volcanic formation of the Hyblaean Mountains. Their peaks form the boundary between the present-day provinces of Syracuse and Ragusa and the watershed between the Irminio and...
, TrentoTrentoTrento is an Italian city located in the Adige River valley in Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol. It is the capital of Trentino... - Via Ferrata del Monte Emilius, on monte Emilius in Valle D'Aosta
- Via ferrata Deanna Orlandini, in GenovaGénovaGénova may refer to:* Spanish spelling of the city of Genoa, Italy* Génova, Quindío, a municipality in the department of Quindío, Colombia* Génova, Quetzaltenango, a municipality in the department of Quetzaltenango, Guatemala...
- Via ferrata del Cabirol, on Capo Caccia, AlgheroAlgheroAlghero , is a town of about 44,000 inhabitants in Italy. It lies in the province of Sassari in northwestern Sardinia, next to the sea.-History:The area of today's Alghero has been settled since pre-historic times...
, Sardegna
France
Routes in France are graded for difficulty using a six level system whose names are derived from that used for alpine climbing:- F - Facile : Easy, suitable for initiation into the sport.
- PD - Peu Difficile : Slightly difficult, suitable for beginners and possibly children.
- AD - Assez Difficile : Moderately difficult, suitable for accompanied beginners.
- D - Difficile : Difficult, for those accustomed to the sport.
- TD - Très Difficile : Very difficult, physically demanding, for regular participants.
- ED - Extrêmement Difficile : Extremely difficult, very physically demanding, and suitable for experienced practitioners with a high level of fitness.
This grading system, while very well established, is considered by some to not provide sufficiently detailed information to precisely know how hard a route is. A different system, which remains under discussion, grades via ferrata difficulty according to four categories: how athletic they are, degree of exposure, how well equipped the route is, and where the route falls on a scale ranging from a walk all the way to climbing with steep ascents and overhangs. However, one may wish to consider that either system does not take into account the effect of weather conditions on these routes. A route with wet or even icy sections becomes very different from the grade assigned to it when dry, for example.
The French vias, of which there were some 120 in existence at the end of 2005, are well distributed across the six grades, with around five each of F and ED, the bulk falling within the four middle classifications.
While most of the vias in France exist for tourism purposes some facilitate visits to historic sites. Les Mines du Grand Clôt near the village of La Grave in the Hautes Alpes department takes the climber up a sheer cliff where a lead mine operated with little success between 1807 and 1925. This route is illustrated with sign boards in English and French telling the story of the struggle to extract small amounts of ore in very difficult conditions. Another via near Lumbin in the department of Isère
Isère
Isère is a department in the Rhône-Alpes region in the east of France named after the river Isère.- History :Isère is one of the original 83 departments created during the French Revolution on March 4, 1790. It was created from part of the former province of Dauphiné...
, the Vire des Lavandières, passes an old section of route called the Échelle des Maquisards built in 1943 and used by resistance fighters during the Second World War.
Responsibility for maintaining via ferrate in France lies with the commune in which the via is situated. Maintenance can be costly depending on location, with vias at higher altitudes being subject to damage by snow and ice through the winter months. Some communes have decided to fund this maintenance by charging an admission fee, but this applies to very few vias and most remain free of charge.
Germany
There are about 180 via ferratas in Germany, including the easiest, that can be approached without special equipment.Many are in the southern regions of Germany near Austrian border. Among them Jubilee Ridge (Jubiläumsgrat
Jubiläumsgrat
The Jubiläumsgrat or Jubiläumsweg , also nicknamed Jubi in climbing circles, is the name given to the climbing route along the arête between the Zugspitze and the Hochblassen...
) goes to the summit of Zugspitze
Zugspitze
The Zugspitze, at 2,962 metres above sea level, is the highest peak of the Wetterstein Mountains as well as the highest mountain in Germany. It lies south of the town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and the border between Germany and Austria runs over its western summit. South of the mountain is...
.
There are also many via ferratas in other areas - most notably in Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland is a hilly climbing area and national park around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany. Together with the Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic it forms the Elbe Sandstone Mountains....
. As opposed to via ferratas in the Dolomites, many routes were build in modern times and they have sport character, can be short and much more difficult than classics in the Dolomites.
Spain
CATALUNYA:- 601 Via Ferrata Regina, Alt Urgell
- 602 Via Ferrata d'Allinyà, Alt Urgel
- 603 Via Ferrata de St-Marti Sarroca, Alt Penedès
- 604 Via Ferrata del Castellot, Alt Penedès
- 605 Via Ferrata Olmo-Urquiza, Montsec
- 606 Via Ferrata de la Pertusa, Montsec
- 607 Via Ferrata Teresina Montserrat
- 608 Via Ferrata Feixa del Colom, Conca de Barberà
- 609 Via Ferrata de l'Aigualcoll, Baix Camp
ARAGON:
- 610 Via Ferrata del Santo Christo Somontano de Barbasto
- 611 Via Ferrata del Puente, Somontano de Barbasto
- 612 Via Ferrata de Sacs Ribagorza
Canada
There are Via Ferrate in CanadaCanada
Canada is a North American country consisting of ten provinces and three territories. Located in the northern part of the continent, it extends from the Atlantic Ocean in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west, and northward into the Arctic Ocean...
at Whistler, BC (this is a private via closed to the public, but guided tours can be arranged), in the Mont-Tremblant National Park
Mont-Tremblant National Park
Mont-Tremblant National Park is a 1,510.10 km² provincial park located north of the town of Mont-Tremblant, Quebec, and the village of Saint-Donat and Saint-Côme...
in the province of Quebec
Quebec
Quebec or is a province in east-central Canada. It is the only Canadian province with a predominantly French-speaking population and the only one whose sole official language is French at the provincial level....
, in Rawdon at the Arbraska park, at Cap Jaseux Saguenay
Saguenay
-Places:*Saguenay, Quebec, a city in Canada*Saguenay River*Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean, the region of the Saguenay*Le Fjord-du-Saguenay Regional County Municipality, Quebec , Regional County Municipality in Quebec, Canada...
, and in the Charlevoix region. There is also Aventures Lafleche near Gatineau, Quebec. The largest Via Ferrata in Canada can be found on Mt. Nimbus in the Columbia Mountains. Operated by Canadian Mountain Holidays, this via ferrata is accessible only by helicopter from the Bobbie Burns Lodge, 35km south of Golden
Golden, British Columbia
Golden is a town in southeastern British Columbia, Canada, located west of Calgary, Alberta and east of Vancouver.-History:Much of the town's history is tied into the Canadian Pacific Railway and the logging industry...
B.C.. Western Canada's first public via ferrata is located halfway between Nordegg and the Icefield Parkway in the Rocky Mountains; the trailhead can be picked up at the parking lot on the east side of the Cline River. The climb is about 180 m (600 ft) long and takes around 2 hours return to the parking lot.
China
There is a high level hiking trail on Mount HuaMount Hua
Mount Hua or Hua Shan in Chinese is located in Shaanxi Province, about 120 kilometres east of the city of Xi'an, near the city Huayin in China. Also known as Xiyuè, Western Great Mountain, it is one of China's Five Sacred Taoist Mountains, and has a long history of religious significance...
in China. Though nothing like the via ferrate now being constructed for sporting purposes it does however provide similar sensations of exposure. Another path is under construction in Hunan province.
Japan
On Mt. Hoken in the Japanese Central Alps are mid-level via ferrata. At an elevation over 2900 meters they pass over sheer drops of 300 meters. Several people have lost their lives on this route and the via ferrata can unexpectedly ice over.Malaysia
The via ferrata in Malaysia is located on Mount KinabaluMount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu is a prominent mountain on the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. It is located in the East Malaysian state of Sabah and is protected as Kinabalu National Park, a World Heritage Site. Kinabalu is the tallest peak in Borneo's Crocker Range and is the tallest mountain in the Malay...
in Sabah
Sabah
Sabah is one of 13 member states of Malaysia. It is located on the northern portion of the island of Borneo. It is the second largest state in the country after Sarawak, which it borders on its southwest. It also shares a border with the province of East Kalimantan of Indonesia in the south...
. At 3,776 meters, it has been verified by Guinness World Records as the highest via ferrata in the world . The route difficulty grading is French AD or Italian 3C.
Mexico
There is a recent via ferrata in Mexico located in the Huasteca Canyon 30 minutes from the city of MonterreyMonterrey
Monterrey , is the capital city of the northeastern state of Nuevo León in the country of Mexico. The city is anchor to the third-largest metropolitan area in Mexico and is ranked as the ninth-largest city in the nation. Monterrey serves as a commercial center in the north of the country and is the...
, the largest in Latin America. Its difficulty level is intermediate.
Norway
There is a via ferrata Tysso in TyssedalTyssedal
Tyssedal is a village in Odda municipality in Norway with about 700 inhabitants and is situated 6 km north of Odda center. Tyssedal is located in a charming environment between fjords and mountains, in the fjord arm Sørfjorden and at the edge of the Hardangervidda mountain plateau.Tyssedal is...
, starting at the Norwegian Museum of Hydro Power and Industry and climbing along the very steep hydropower pipeline. There is also one in Hemsedal
Hemsedal
Hemsedal is a municipality in Buskerud county, Norway. It is part of the traditional region of Hallingdal. The administrative centre of the municipality is the village of Trøym. In 1897, Hemsedal was separated from the municipality of Gol to become a municipality of its own.Hemsedal is the...
.
Peru
Located in the Sacred Valley of the Incas (2,650 meters), between Cuzco and the spectacular OllantaytamboOllantaytambo
Ollantaytambo is a town and an Inca archaeological site in southern Peru some 60 kilometers northwest of the city of Cusco. It is located at an altitude of 2,792 meters above sea level in the district of Ollantaytambo, province of Urubamba, Cusco region...
fortress. The via ferrata reaches a vertical height of 300 meters, including a hanging bridge at 250 meters, and has a total length of 700 meters. Private route. Intermediate level. Exit via 100 meters rappel.
Sweden
There are five via ferrata routes in SwedenSweden
Sweden , officially the Kingdom of Sweden , is a Nordic country on the Scandinavian Peninsula in Northern Europe. Sweden borders with Norway and Finland and is connected to Denmark by a bridge-tunnel across the Öresund....
. One on the eastern route to the peak of Kebnekaise
Kebnekaise
Kebnekaise is the highest mountain in Sweden and Sápmi. The Kebnekaise massif, which is part of the Scandinavian Mountains, has two peaks, of which the southern, glaciated one is highest at above sea level at the latest time of measurement. The north top is free of ice...
, one in Funäsdalen
Funäsdalen
Funäsdalen is a locality situated in Härjedalen Municipality, Jämtland County, Sweden with 798 inhabitants in 2005....
and three on Skuleberget in the High Coast
The High Coast
The High Coast is a part of the Swedish coast on the Gulf of Bothnia, situated in the municipalities of Kramfors, Härnösand and Örnsköldsvik and notable as a type area for research on post-glacial rebound and eustacy, in which the land rises as the weight of the glaciers melts off of it...
area.
United Kingdom
Located in the Lake DistrictLake District
The Lake District, also commonly known as The Lakes or Lakeland, is a mountainous region in North West England. A popular holiday destination, it is famous not only for its lakes and its mountains but also for its associations with the early 19th century poetry and writings of William Wordsworth...
, Honister's via ferrata
Honister Slate Mine
The Honister Slate Mine is a group of slate mines and quarries located at the top of the Honister Pass in the Lake District in England. The earliest reference to quarrying at this location is from 1728.-History:...
was originally used for transporting slate from one end of the valley to the other. Unlike most other via ferrate, Honister has a zip line, although it is only a mandatory part for one of the two routes.
Located in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, How Stean Gorge's via ferrata was constructed in 2009 for recreational purposes and incorporates fixed beams and ladders over the river as well as rockface sections.
Located to the west of the village of Elie, in the county of Fife, Scotland. The Elie Chainwalk is Scotland's best-known Via Ferrata. It comprises eight chains along a route which follows steep sea cliffs. Reputed to have first been installed to help fishermen reach their nets, it is now maintained by the local council and was recently refurbished. Suitable for those aged about 10 and above (with supervision!), it is not recommended at high tide due to the possibility of being stranded.
United States
Via ferrata routes in the United StatesUnited States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
include Waterfall Canyon east of Ogden, Utah
Ogden, Utah
Ogden is a city in Weber County, Utah, United States. Ogden serves as the county seat of Weber County. The population was 82,825 according to the 2010 Census. The city served as a major railway hub through much of its history, and still handles a great deal of freight rail traffic which makes it a...
, Yosemite's Half Dome
Half Dome
Half Dome is a granite dome in Yosemite National Park, located in northeastern Mariposa County, California, at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley — possibly Yosemite's most familiar rock formation. The granite crest rises more than above the valley floor....
in California, Nelson Rocks
Nelson Rocks
Nelson Rocks Outdoor Center , previously known as Nelson Rocks Preserve, is an outdoor recreation area located in the North Fork Valley of Pendleton County, West Virginia...
in West Virginia, Picacho Peak in Arizona's Picacho Peak State Park
Picacho Peak State Park
Picacho Peak State Park is a state park of Arizona, USA, surrounding Picacho Peak. The park is located between Casa Grande and Tucson near Interstate 10 in Pinal County. Its centerpiece spire is visible from downtown Tucson, a distance of . The summit rises to above mean sea level...
, Torrent Falls
Torrent Falls
Torrent Falls is an outdoor area near the small community of Torrent, which is near Natural Bridge State Park in Kentucky. Once a resort for the wealthy, it features a striking waterfall, both traditional and sport rock climbing, a via ferrata, and cabins available for vacation rentals.Torrent...
in Kentucky, Doe River Gorge in Tennessee, Telluride, Colorado, and Amangiri Resort in Southern Utah (4 routes). Liability
Public liability
Public liability is part of the law of tort which focuses on civil wrongs. An applicant usually sues the respondent under common law based on negligence and/or damages...
exposure in the USA is significantly different than other countries, which may explain the low incidence of Via ferrata construction. Also, via ferratas in the US are currenly not approved for installation on public lands.
Oman
There are 3 routes in Oman; Jabal Shams, wadi bni auwf(snake gorge) and khayran (Western Isle).Equipment
In addition to the normal hiking equipment for alpine areas (such as the boots, clothing, weather protection), it is essential to use special via ferrata equipment: lanyard, energy absorber, harness and helmet.Lanyard
There are two types: Y and V-shaped. Currently only Y-shaped is approved by UIAA, as it is simpler and there are less ways to use it inappropriately. Using this type of lanyard both arms should be attached to the steel line. New types of commercially available lanyards have retractable arms to keep them out of the way.Carabiners
Carabiners are also made specially for via ferrata, their design typically allowing a larger-than-normal opening and having a spring locking mechanism that can be opened with one hand. They are also strong enough to withstand high fall factors. Such carabiners are marked with a K in a circle, the K standing for Klettersteig, the German term for via ferrata.These are the only types of carabiner that should be used on the end of the safety lines. Certain limitations of via ferrata carabiners should be kept in mind. Many such carabiners are not true "locking carabiners", as employed in roped climbing and caving systems, and should not be used as such. A typical design uses a spring-loaded sleeve on the carabiner gate. While the gate is closed, the sleeve is held in place over the gate opening by its spring; to unlock and open the gate, the sleeve slides directly down the gate shaft away from the opening. The ease of opening these devices makes them suitable for via ferrata climbing, with its constant clipping and unclipping, but not for applications where more secure locking mechanisms (automatic or manual) are called for. In addition, locking sleeves on via ferrata carabiners have been known to hang up in the gate opening and prevent the gate from closing properly. Care must be taken to maintain (clean and lubricate) and/or replace the carabiners as needed to avoid this potentially unsafe situation.
Shock absorber
Most common type of absorber is a braking device with a rope going through it and attached to the harness. A rope is passed through it providing a high degree of resistance when pulled. There are several variants of these absorbers. The advantage of such absorber is that it can be used again after a fall (note that the ropes should be replaced). A length of the rope which passes through the plate hangs loosely from the plate while in use, so as to be available to be drawn through the plate if high fall forces occur. This "tail" serves no other purpose and tends to get in the climbers way; commercially-made lanyards employ various methods to attach the tail to the harness and/or hold it in a compact bundle, which can easily be pulled apart during deployment. If, however, the climber ties a knot in the tail, wraps it tightly around the torso and clips it in place with a carabiner, or makes any other adjustment which will impede its ability to pull through the plate under load, excessive forces will not be dissipated and an unsafe situation is created.Another type of absorber is a tearing energy absorber. It consists of a length of line specially sewn together to allow progressive tearing in case of a fall. The advantage of this type of absorber is that it is much more compact and it does not have additional rope that can get in a way of climber it is also considered safer in case of the fall. The disadvantage is that it can be used only once and then has to be replaced, possibly leaving you unprotected in the middle of the climb.
Using energy absorber is essential due to high fall factor.
Harness
Normal climbing harnessClimbing harness
A climbing harness is a piece of equipment used in certain types of rock-climbing, abseiling or other activities requiring the use of ropes to provide access or safety...
can be used. Children and people with heavy backpacks are advised to use full body harness or normal harness combined with a chest strap.
Helmet
Helmet should be a UIAA approved climbing helmet, since the danger of falling rocks or hitting your head in the fall, is always high. Helmet is very useful on longer vertical routes especially in the Dolomites where the rocks can be quite loose. Other types of helmets can be dangerous as they are usually not designed to stay in place during the fall.Other equipment
It is a good idea to use gloves, as the steel cables may have some loose steel threads, and gloves help to protect your hands from abrasion caused by continuous contact with the steel rope and rocks.Sunglasses, sunscreen
Sunscreen
Sunblock is a lotion, spray, gel or other topical product that absorbs or reflects some of the sun's ultraviolet radiation on the skin exposed to sunlight and thus helps protect against sunburn...
, additional food and water can can be very helpful depending on the weather and length of the route.
In Dolomites some via ferratas require headlamps
Headlamp (outdoor)
A headlamp is a light source affixed to the head for outdoor activities at night or in dark conditions such as caving, orienteering, hiking, backpacking, camping, mountaineering or mountain biking...
because they travel through long underground tunnels.
Trekking poles
Trekking poles
Trekking poles are a common hiking accessory used to assist walkers with their rhythm and provide stability on rough terrain.-Description:...
may not be very useful during the climb but they may be helpful while ascending steep slopes when ascending via ferrata.
Some routes go through glaciers or snow fields and require crampons
Crampons
Crampons are traction devices used to improve mobility on snow and ice. There are three main attachment systems for footwear: step-in, hybrid, and strap bindings. The first two require boots with welts, the last adapt to any type....
and ice axe
Ice axe
An ice axe, is a multi-purpose ice and snow tool used by mountaineers both in the ascent and descent of routes which involve frozen conditions. It can be held and employed in a number of different ways, depending on the terrain encountered...
.
On very difficult via ferratas some climbers use climbing shoes and sometimes rope and belay device.
Diferences to climbing equipment
While via ferrata is similar to rock climbing the major difference is that the fall factorFall factor
In climbing, using a dynamic rope, the fall factor f is the ratio of the height h a climber falls before the climber's rope begins to stretch and the rope length L available to absorb the energy of the fall....
, which in climbing does not normally exceed two, can in via ferrata be much higher. These high factors are possible because the length of rope between harness and carabiner is short and fixed, while the distance the climber can fall depends on the gaps between anchor points for the safety cable. The human body, as well as most items of climbing equipment, cannot withstand the forces associated with some of these higher fall factors and so a number of devices have been developed to act as shock absorbers or progressive brakes. Their function is to dissipate the energy of the fall while at the same time keeping the climber and equipment intact.
However, in spite of the perception of via ferrata as being more secure and safe than rock climbing, people are more likely to injure themselves if they do fall, partly because of these elevated fall factors and partly because there are often rungs, steps, pigtails, etc. on which to land.
See also
- DolomitesDolomitesThe Dolomites are a mountain range located in north-eastern Italy. It is a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extends from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley...
- Alta Via 1Alta Via 1Alta Via 1 is a 150 km long high level public footpath which runs through the eastern Dolomites in Italy. It is also known as the Dolomite High Route 1. It passes through some of the finest scenery in the Dolomites. The path runs south from Pragser Wildsee, near Toblach, to Belluno...
- 150 km long trail in the eastern Dolomites - Caminito del ReyCaminito del ReyEl Caminito del Rey is a walkway, now fallen into disrepair, pinned along the steep walls of a narrow gorge in El Chorro, near Álora in the province of Málaga, Spain...
- Self belaySelf belayIn mountaineering, a climber can employ a self-belay with an ice axe to prevent a slide down a snow-covered slope. To use an ice axe to self-belay, a climber will hold the axe by the head in the climber’s uphill hand. As the climber moves up the slope, the climber will push the shaft of the axe...
External links
- Dolomiti.org - offers information on the Dolomites and maps and guides to several via ferrate
- Personal website about via ferrate in the Dolomites, including geo-tagged pictures and detailed trackmaps
- via ferrata in Italy photogallery
- communitywalk.com - Map of walks and via ferrate in the Dolomites on Google Maps Via-ferrata.de - over 300 via ferrate in the Alps with detailed description and pictures Viaferratafr.free.fr - French site with detailed descriptions and photographs of some 120 via ferrate in France LaViaFerrata.net - All via ferrate in France Via Ferrata in Spain - Spanish site with description of via ferrate in Catalonia, Aragon, Andorra and France VieFerrate.it - Italian site about via ferrate in Italy, with users' reports, pictures and evaluations
- 360degreeslongitude.com - via ferrata from Mürren to Gimmelwald, Switzerland as kmz file
- Discover Via Ferrata. Caren Osten Gerszberg. Experience Life magazine. September 2010. http://www.experiencelife.com/issues/september-2010/fit-body/discover-via-ferrata.php