Sruli Recht
Encyclopedia
Sruli Recht is an award-winning Designer, (Born 1979 in Jerusalem Israel
). He is a citizen of Australia and is currently based in Reykjavik
Iceland
. Recht studied Fashion Design
at RMIT University
in Melbourne Australia, the city where he spent the majority of his life. His career began primarily in Fashion where he rapidly developed a unique style of experimental couture clothing influenced by Futurism
, Cyberpunk
, Russian Constructivism
, Industrial design
and Science-Fiction writing - particularly the work of Philip K. Dick
and Bruce Sterling
. Recht's innovative approaches to materials and new technologies, particularly in recent years, have led to products including ~Elt - the first buckle-less water-cut leather belt, and a portable flat pack cardboard Cutting Table. Recht's work is also considered by many to be controversial due in no small part to products such as theatrical garments made of Seal fur
, Arctic Fox
, and Minke Whale
Skin.
, Custom-Tailoring, Illustration
and Industrial Design
- a fact which often makes it hard to define his work in any simplified way. Seemingly self-aware of this fact, during a 2006 collaboration with Nimrod Weis of ENESS Design Recht published a statement to try and better define the motivations behind his work from then on called Non-Products:
Recht began producing commercial work as early as 1998, establishing a studio in the Melbourne suburb of Collingwood where he worked through the turn of the century primarily in the realm of fashion. Based in Melbourne his work centered around made-to-measure custom pieces however over this period he had already begun experimenting in more industrial design oriented projects including the controversial Umbuster - an Umbrella
with a handle that also doubled as a Knuckle-duster. At the end of 2001 Sruli Recht formed ST Collaborate - a custom tailored futurist clothing label, with Timothy Trop - which, over a period of 3 years showed small collections and highly experimental show pieces including a sheepskin coat that fastened together with combination locks, shirts with magnetic buttons and a leather corrective neck-brace with automotive hydraulic piston.
In 2005 Recht left Australia to London England where he worked over 3 seasons with British designer Alexander McQueen
in his Amwell St studios, cutting patterns and constructing catwalk showpieces. Following this period Sruli Recht relocated to Reykjavik Iceland.
Now based in Reykjavik his work continues along lines of blurred relationships between various schools of Design - fashion/industrial etc. and whose byproducts have a darker ironic and aggressive subtext relating to social dis/function and sustainability
. Examples of this include the production of a full-sized Polar Bear
skin fashioned out of 15 Icelandic sheep
skins, a buckle-less belt eliminating the need to remove it at airport security
or a limited-edition run of bulletproof
Handkerchiefs made of Kevlar
—all thinly veiled social commentaries and primarily focused on design and concept rather than mass production
and broad commercial appeal.
In addition to this Recht has also ventured into Shoe Design, producing his first collection in 2007 for 2008 which was critically acclaimed internationally by the media but also attracted considerable controversy due mainly to one particular model "Hvalsforhúðsskór"- a limited-edition shoe fabricated from the foreskins of Minke Whale penises.
Recht's approach to new mediums and materials have resulted in several cutting edge projects such as the 2004 new media art
collaboration with Martina Mrongovius created the two large-format rainbow transmission holograms of his garments, title UNFURL, for the Experimenta New Visions Commission interactive media art exhibition VANISHING POINT
and Shaper/Mechanist
series and William Gibson
's Sprawl trilogy. He has regularly stated in interviews that the writings of authors such as Bruce Sterling and William Morris
have informed his work on various levels. An example of this would be in the similarly styled short prose of his first shoe collection "...I Have Walked" whose dark and textured visuals create a backdrop for each design.
- Icelandic photographer Marinó Thorlacius
- British Eyewear Design House Oliver Goldsmith
- ENESS Design of Melbourne Australia
- Icelandic packaging designer Snorri Már Snorrason
- CCP Games, the creators of the largest MMO
game in the world - EVE-Online, in Reykjavik Iceland
- Dutch Shoe Designer Alexander Fielden
- Mundi Designs
- Icelandic record label Bedroom Community
- Krads Architecture
Israel
The State of Israel is a parliamentary republic located in the Middle East, along the eastern shore of the Mediterranean Sea...
). He is a citizen of Australia and is currently based in Reykjavik
Reykjavík
Reykjavík is the capital and largest city in Iceland.Its latitude at 64°08' N makes it the world's northernmost capital of a sovereign state. It is located in southwestern Iceland, on the southern shore of Faxaflói Bay...
Iceland
Iceland
Iceland , described as the Republic of Iceland, is a Nordic and European island country in the North Atlantic Ocean, on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. Iceland also refers to the main island of the country, which contains almost all the population and almost all the land area. The country has a population...
. Recht studied Fashion Design
Fashion design
Fashion design is the art of the application of design and aesthetics or natural beauty to clothing and accessories. Fashion design is influenced by cultural and social latitudes, and has varied over time and place. Fashion designers work in a number of ways in designing clothing and accessories....
at RMIT University
RMIT University
RMIT University is an Australian public university located in Melbourne, Victoria. It has two branches, referred to as RMIT University in Australia and RMIT International University in Vietnam....
in Melbourne Australia, the city where he spent the majority of his life. His career began primarily in Fashion where he rapidly developed a unique style of experimental couture clothing influenced by Futurism
Futurism
Futurism was an artistic and social movement that originated in Italy in the early 20th century.Futurism or futurist may refer to:* Afrofuturism, an African-American and African diaspora subculture* Cubo-Futurism* Ego-Futurism...
, Cyberpunk
Cyberpunk
Cyberpunk is a postmodern and science fiction genre noted for its focus on "high tech and low life." The name is a portmanteau of cybernetics and punk, and was originally coined by Bruce Bethke as the title of his short story "Cyberpunk," published in 1983...
, Russian Constructivism
Constructivism (art)
Constructivism was an artistic and architectural philosophy that originated in Russia beginning in 1919, which was a rejection of the idea of autonomous art. The movement was in favour of art as a practice for social purposes. Constructivism had a great effect on modern art movements of the 20th...
, Industrial design
Industrial design
Industrial design is the use of a combination of applied art and applied science to improve the aesthetics, ergonomics, and usability of a product, but it may also be used to improve the product's marketability and production...
and Science-Fiction writing - particularly the work of Philip K. Dick
Philip K. Dick
Philip Kindred Dick was an American novelist, short story writer and essayist whose published work is almost entirely in the science fiction genre. Dick explored sociological, political and metaphysical themes in novels dominated by monopolistic corporations, authoritarian governments and altered...
and Bruce Sterling
Bruce Sterling
Michael Bruce Sterling is an American science fiction author, best known for his novels and his work on the Mirrorshades anthology, which helped define the cyberpunk genre.-Writings:...
. Recht's innovative approaches to materials and new technologies, particularly in recent years, have led to products including ~Elt - the first buckle-less water-cut leather belt, and a portable flat pack cardboard Cutting Table. Recht's work is also considered by many to be controversial due in no small part to products such as theatrical garments made of Seal fur
Pinniped
Pinnipeds or fin-footed mammals are a widely distributed and diverse group of semiaquatic marine mammals comprising the families Odobenidae , Otariidae , and Phocidae .-Overview: Pinnipeds are typically sleek-bodied and barrel-shaped...
, Arctic Fox
Arctic fox
The arctic fox , also known as the white fox, polar fox or snow fox, is a small fox native to Arctic regions of the Northern Hemisphere and is common throughout the Arctic tundra biome. The Greek word alopex, means a fox and Vulpes is the Latin version...
, and Minke Whale
Minke Whale
Minke whale , or lesser rorqual, is a name given to two species of marine mammal belonging to a clade within the suborder of baleen whales. The minke whale was given its official designation by Lacepède in 1804, who described a dwarf form of Balænoptera acuto-rostrata...
Skin.
Work
Sruli Recht's projects span Fashion DesignFashion design
Fashion design is the art of the application of design and aesthetics or natural beauty to clothing and accessories. Fashion design is influenced by cultural and social latitudes, and has varied over time and place. Fashion designers work in a number of ways in designing clothing and accessories....
, Custom-Tailoring, Illustration
Illustration
An illustration is a displayed visualization form presented as a drawing, painting, photograph or other work of art that is created to elucidate or dictate sensual information by providing a visual representation graphically.- Early history :The earliest forms of illustration were prehistoric...
and Industrial Design
Industrial design
Industrial design is the use of a combination of applied art and applied science to improve the aesthetics, ergonomics, and usability of a product, but it may also be used to improve the product's marketability and production...
- a fact which often makes it hard to define his work in any simplified way. Seemingly self-aware of this fact, during a 2006 collaboration with Nimrod Weis of ENESS Design Recht published a statement to try and better define the motivations behind his work from then on called Non-Products:
" 'Non-Products' -
A specially made low run piece,
either hand tooled or machine made,
that would lose its context as a mass produced item,
and is not viable to produce in large quantities.
And/or An item that is in concept stage as a byproduct of the previous. "
Recht began producing commercial work as early as 1998, establishing a studio in the Melbourne suburb of Collingwood where he worked through the turn of the century primarily in the realm of fashion. Based in Melbourne his work centered around made-to-measure custom pieces however over this period he had already begun experimenting in more industrial design oriented projects including the controversial Umbuster - an Umbrella
Umbrella
An umbrella or parasol is a canopy designed to protect against rain or sunlight. The term parasol usually refers to an item designed to protect from the sun; umbrella refers to a device more suited to protect from rain...
with a handle that also doubled as a Knuckle-duster. At the end of 2001 Sruli Recht formed ST Collaborate - a custom tailored futurist clothing label, with Timothy Trop - which, over a period of 3 years showed small collections and highly experimental show pieces including a sheepskin coat that fastened together with combination locks, shirts with magnetic buttons and a leather corrective neck-brace with automotive hydraulic piston.
In 2005 Recht left Australia to London England where he worked over 3 seasons with British designer Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen
Lee Alexander McQueen, CBE was a British fashion designer and couturier best known for his in-depth knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, his tendency to juxtapose strength with fragility in his collections, as well as the emotional power and raw energy of his provocative fashion shows...
in his Amwell St studios, cutting patterns and constructing catwalk showpieces. Following this period Sruli Recht relocated to Reykjavik Iceland.
Now based in Reykjavik his work continues along lines of blurred relationships between various schools of Design - fashion/industrial etc. and whose byproducts have a darker ironic and aggressive subtext relating to social dis/function and sustainability
Sustainability
Sustainability is the capacity to endure. For humans, sustainability is the long-term maintenance of well being, which has environmental, economic, and social dimensions, and encompasses the concept of union, an interdependent relationship and mutual responsible position with all living and non...
. Examples of this include the production of a full-sized Polar Bear
Polar Bear
The polar bear is a bear native largely within the Arctic Circle encompassing the Arctic Ocean, its surrounding seas and surrounding land masses. It is the world's largest land carnivore and also the largest bear, together with the omnivorous Kodiak Bear, which is approximately the same size...
skin fashioned out of 15 Icelandic sheep
Icelandic sheep
The Icelandic sheep is a breed of domestic sheep. The Icelandic breed is one of the Northern European short-tailed sheep, which exhibit a fluke-shaped, naturally short tail. The Icelandic is a mid-sized breed, generally short legged and stocky, with face and legs free of wool...
skins, a buckle-less belt eliminating the need to remove it at airport security
Airport security
Airport security refers to the techniques and methods used in protecting airports and aircraft from crime.Large numbers of people pass through airports. This presents potential targets for terrorism and other forms of crime due to the number of people located in a particular location...
or a limited-edition run of bulletproof
Bulletproof
Bulletproofing is the process of making something capable of stopping a bullet or similar high velocity projectiles e.g. shrapnel. The term bullet resistance is often preferred because few, if any, practical materials provide complete protection against all types of bullets, or multiple hits in the...
Handkerchiefs made of Kevlar
Kevlar
Kevlar is the registered trademark for a para-aramid synthetic fiber, related to other aramids such as Nomex and Technora. Developed at DuPont in 1965, this high strength material was first commercially used in the early 1970s as a replacement for steel in racing tires...
—all thinly veiled social commentaries and primarily focused on design and concept rather than mass production
Mass production
Mass production is the production of large amounts of standardized products, including and especially on assembly lines...
and broad commercial appeal.
In addition to this Recht has also ventured into Shoe Design, producing his first collection in 2007 for 2008 which was critically acclaimed internationally by the media but also attracted considerable controversy due mainly to one particular model "Hvalsforhúðsskór"- a limited-edition shoe fabricated from the foreskins of Minke Whale penises.
"His boots are works of art in leather and form" - TokionTokionTokion is a New York-based magazine covering art, fashion, music and film. It publishes separate US, UK, and Japanese editions. Tokion also produces the annual Creativity Now Conference, a weekend-long seminar of panel discussions with speakers from across the creative spectrum.- History :Tokion...
Magazine
"...the designs appear to be from another time and another world." - Indesign Magazine
"A fairytale for fashion shoes" - VogueVogue (magazine)Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine that is published monthly in 18 national and one regional edition by Condé Nast.-History:In 1892 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States. When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly began...
Pelle Italia
"...one of the most intriguing and imaginative footwear collections seen." - WGSN
"Sruli Recht has only gone and created the reason we have feet." - Borne Magazine
Recht's approach to new mediums and materials have resulted in several cutting edge projects such as the 2004 new media art
New media art
New media art is a genre that encompasses artworks created with new media technologies, including digital art, computer graphics, computer animation, virtual art, Internet art, interactive art, computer robotics, and art as biotechnology...
collaboration with Martina Mrongovius created the two large-format rainbow transmission holograms of his garments, title UNFURL, for the Experimenta New Visions Commission interactive media art exhibition VANISHING POINT
Influences
Recht often cites his influences as largely literary, drawing particularly from Cyberpunk novels such as Bruce Sterlings SchismatrixSchismatrix
Schismatrix is a science fiction novel by Bruce Sterling, originally published in 1985. The story was Sterling's only novel-length treatment of the Shaper/Mechanist universe. Five short stories preceded the novel...
and Shaper/Mechanist
Shaper/Mechanist
The Shaper/Mechanist universe is the setting for a series of science fiction short stories written by the author Bruce Sterling. The stories combined cover approximately 350 years of future history, for the period ranging from AD 2200-2550...
series and William Gibson
William Gibson
William Gibson is an American-Canadian science fiction author.William Gibson may also refer to:-Association football:*Will Gibson , Scottish footballer...
's Sprawl trilogy. He has regularly stated in interviews that the writings of authors such as Bruce Sterling and William Morris
William Morris
William Morris 24 March 18343 October 1896 was an English textile designer, artist, writer, and socialist associated with the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and the English Arts and Crafts Movement...
have informed his work on various levels. An example of this would be in the similarly styled short prose of his first shoe collection "...I Have Walked" whose dark and textured visuals create a backdrop for each design.
Collaborations
Sruli Recht is an avid collaborator who often works simultaneously with other Designers and Design Houses and Artists across a broad range of mediums. Past and present collaborators include:- Icelandic photographer Marinó Thorlacius
- British Eyewear Design House Oliver Goldsmith
- ENESS Design of Melbourne Australia
- Icelandic packaging designer Snorri Már Snorrason
- CCP Games, the creators of the largest MMO
Massively multiplayer online game
A massively multiplayer online game is a multiplayer video game which is capable of supporting hundreds or thousands of players simultaneously. By necessity, they are played on the Internet, and usually feature at least one persistent world. They are, however, not necessarily games played on...
game in the world - EVE-Online, in Reykjavik Iceland
- Dutch Shoe Designer Alexander Fielden
- Mundi Designs
- Icelandic record label Bedroom Community
- Krads Architecture
Publications
- Magma - Contemporary Icelandic Design
- Shoe Design - Overview of contemporary shoe designers, Daab Publishing
- Outside The Box, Cardboard Design Now - International packaging design, Black Dog Publishing
- Hello, Mr. Package ! - International packaging design focusing on male designers, SendPoint Publishing
- Magic Packaging - International packaging design, Designer Books
- Art of Package Design - International packaging design, Ginko Press
- Doppelganger - Images of the Human Being, Gestalten