South Fork Eel River
Encyclopedia
The South Fork Eel River is the longest and largest tributary of the Eel River
, in the north-central part of the U.S. state
of California
. The river flows north 105 miles (169 km) from Laytonville
to Dyerville/Founders' Grove where it joins the Eel River on the left bank. The South Fork's watershed of about 689 mi2 drains a long and narrow portion of the Coast Range of California, covering parts of Mendocino and Humboldt
counties. For much of its length, it is paralleled by U.S. Route 101
.
The South Fork originally supported a large population of anadromous fish, although populations have begun to decline in the 20th century. In the upper headwaters of the river, the Kai Pomo Indians, a branch of the Pomo Indians group, originally lived. In the 1920s, a temporary dam, the Benbow Dam, was built on the river near Benbow, California
, becoming a major fishkiller. The lower section of the South Fork below the Section Four Creek confluence is designated as a National Wild and Scenic River
.
to the south. Dropping off the high plateau it begins on, the South Fork winds north and bends southwest through a steep and narrow canyon. Longvale, California
is a few miles to the east of the headwaters, while Laytonville, California
is closer, only about 1 miles (1.6 km) to the north. It is not long after its headwaters that Branscomb Road drops into the South Fork Eel's canyon from the north, paralleling the river. Almost 1 miles (1.6 km) past this point, it receives its first significant tributary
, Section Four Creek, on the left bank. Although it is not a large creek, only about 2.5 miles (4 km) long, it denotes the start of the National Wild and Scenic River
section of the South Fork. The river meanders swiftly west and turns west-northwest, passing Branscomb, California
. Near the city, it receives Rock Creek on the right and Redwood Creek on the left. These two stream names are a common occurrence throughout the South Fork's watershed. Afterwards, it receives its first significant tributary, Tenmile Creek, on the right bank. Tenmile Creek begins in another section of the Coast Range, separated from the South Fork Eel River by two sub-ranges. The creek begins in the easternmost of these two sub-ranges. It then flows west, cutting a water gap
through the western subrange, and spills into the South Fork. The creek is about 21 miles (33.8 km) long, despite the name.
After the confluence with Tenmile Creek, the South Fork flows generally north, turning west where it receives another major tributary, 11 miles (17.7 km) Rattlesnake Creek, also on the right. This point is significant because it is where it begins to parallel U.S. Highway 101 and California State Route 271
(Redwood Highway and Old Redwood Highway). Both roads come in from the east and at this point are on the river's right bank. The river turns northwest, receiving Big Dann Creek and another large 9 miles (14.5 km) tributary, Cedar Creek
, on the right bank. Cedar Creek flows west and turns south-southwest, flowing also in a steep, undeveloped gorge. Shortly past Cedar Creek, the South Fork Eel meets another large tributary, Hollow Tree Creek. Hollow Tree Creek flows east, turns north, then turns east again to meet the South Fork, fed by several smaller creeks. The South Fork then turns west again, flowing through the Standish Hickey State Recreational Area. It then meanders north into Richardson Grove State Park
on an increasingly wide valley floor, receiving Red Mountain Creek on the right bank.
The river then reaches Benbow Lake, which is inside the Benbow Lake State Recreational Area and next to the town of Benbow, California
. Benbow Lake was a seasonal reservoir
, formed by a dam at its western end. The dam was only raised in the summer, and only when water flow is sufficient for impoundment. Since about 2009, the lake no longer gets build, and its good for the ecology of river. At Benbow Lake the South Fork meets its largest tributary, the East Branch South Fork Eel River
. The East Branch, formed by the confluence of two small creeks, Cruso Cabin and Elkhorn Creeks, south of Bell Springs Mountain, flows through a rugged, narrow gorge in a generally northwest direction for about 20 miles (32.2 km). After passing through the Benbow Dam, which is non-functional during the winter months, the South Fork Eel receives another tributary called Redwood Creek on the left bank, as it bends north and then west around the community of Redway, California
, which is located on a plateau east of the river. The river then passes through another rugged canyon, flowing northeast, then passes the towns of Phillipsville
and Miranda
which are to the east of the river. West of Miranda, the river receives another medium-sized tributary, Salmon Creek, from the left bank.
The South Fork then flows north to a point where it turns sharply around a ridge and flows due south, then turns back north again. At this point, it is paralleled by Highway 101 on the left bank and by California State Route 254
(Avenue of the Giants) on the right bank. U.S. 101 then crosses the South Fork, paralleling CA-254. The village of Myers Flat
is located on a low slice of terrain north of the river. The South Fork, nearing its mouth, passes Burlington
on the right bank, and Weott, California
, also on the right bank. Several hundred yards upstream from its confluence, it receives its last major tributary, Bull Creek, on the left bank. Bull Creek, whose watershed is entirely contained inside Humboldt Redwoods State Park
, begins south of Grasshopper Mountain and flows northwest, then makes a great bend to the west and joins the South Fork. Its length is roughly 8 miles (12.9 km). After receiving Bull Creek, the South Fork Eel curves halfway around a 325 feet (99.1 m) high formation known as "Duckett Bluff",
and receives its last name tributary, Cabin Creek, on the left bank. Meandering through a downcut channel between U.S. 101 and SR 254 (right bank) and California State Route 211
, it then crosses under the former two highways, spreads wider, and flows into the Eel River.
, whose watershed covers 753 mi2, or 20.4 percent.) The watershed covers parts of both Humboldt
and Mendocino counties, and parallels but does not border the Pacific coast
. In general, the extent of the river's watershed can be denoted by U.S. Highway 101, which parallels the river for most of its length. It can also be seen as the stretch of land between Laytonville, California
and Weott
(about 144 miles (231.7 km) and 193 miles (310.6 km) north of the city of San Francisco, respectively. The reason for the river's longer length is its meander
ing.) The highest point in the watershed is Iron Peak, elevation 4491 feet (1,368.9 m), and the mouth of the River is at roughly 100 feet (30.5 m), denoting the lowest point.
The river's watershed, due to its rugged and remote location, is thinly populated. Although U.S. Highway 101 and California State Route 271
follow the river for over 70 percent of its length, there are few communities in the steep and narrow, forested canyon of the South Fork. These towns include Branscomb
, Underwood Park
, Leggett
, Piercy
, Andersonia
, Benbow
, Garberville
, Redway
, Phillipsville
, Miranda
, Myers Flat
, and Weott
. In part due to its National Wild and Scenic River
status, the South Fork also has a number of state parks and recreation areas along its course. These include Admiral Standley State Park, Standish Hickey State Recreation Area, Smithe Redwoods State Reserve, Richardson Grove State Park
, South Fork Eel River Wilderness
, Benbow Lake State Recreation Area
, and Humboldt Redwoods State Park
.
The largest South Fork tributary is the East Branch South Fork Eel River
, which is approximately 25 miles (40.2 km) long. Tenmile Creek, at 21 miles (33.8 km) long, is the second largest tributary. Other major tributaries include Cedar Creek
, at 7 miles (11.3 km) long and Bull Creek at 14 miles (22.5 km) long. Hollow Tree Creek is another major, 15 miles (24.1 km) tributary, and is fed by a large amount of sub-tributaries. There are many streams with repeating names in the watershed, including Low Gap Creek, Redwood Creek, Rock Creek, and Red Mountain Creek.
Logging
, although it has mostly ceased in the South Fork Eel watershed, still poses a severe erosion
situation with steep hillsides stripped bare of vegetation. Historically, and still occasionally nowadays, South Fork Eel River water has an unusual "translucent blue-green hue" when it runs naturally. Logging has caused sediments to wash into the river, increasing turbidity
and generally transforming the river into a brownish, tannish color. The South Fork Eel is an important Northern California habitat for anadromous fish (see Wildlife section) and clouding of the water has severely degraded conditions for these fish as well as other aquatic life forms.
The rugged topography of the South Fork Eel River watershed also produces an amount of waterfalls from tributary streams. Although there are no major waterfalls on the South Fork or its major tributaries, the East Branch
and Tenmile Creek, there are many on smaller side streams, especially after heavy rainfall. One of the larger waterfalls is Grizzly Creek Falls, which is on a small stream that spills over a rocky cliff for nearly 1000 feet (304.8 m). The steep terrain also causes the river to fall at steep inclines, creating a series of rapids. The river's rapids are well known as a rafting spot.
, in its middle section can range from 2000 cuft/s to 55 cuft/s. In the lower section near the mouth, the river generally ranges from 5500 cuft/s to 60 cuft/s. The United States Geological Survey
operates or operated four stream gauge
s on the South Fork, at Miranda, Garberville, Leggett, and Branscomb. For Miranda, the location closest to the mouth, the highest recorded peak was 199000 cuft/s on 22 December 1964, with a the minimum of 10 cuft/s on 30 August 1964.
For Garberville, a stream gauge was only operated from 1912–1913, and again in 1940. Peak discharges of 64700 cuft/s were recorded in both 1912 and 1913, while for 1940, the peak was 55600 cuft/s.
The Leggett stream gauge began operating in 1965 and is still in use. The highest flow recorded was 72700 cuft/s on 4 January 1966. A higher peak flow of 78700 cuft/s, on 22 December 1964, before the stream gauge was in place, was determined using flood stage
height data and floodmark measurements. The minimum discharge recorded by this gauge was 7.3 cuft/s on 4 August 1977.
For Branscomb, the location furthest upstream, the highest flow recorded was 20100 cuft/s on 22 December 1955, while the lowest was 0.86 cuft/s on 27 July 1977.
, which consists of soft soil and rock in this region. The formation is created by the San Andreas Fault
, and comprises most of California's Coast Range. The steep terrain in the South Fork Eel's watershed is the result of continuous uplift
along the San Andreas Fault, and coinciding with the erosion caused by the river and its tributaries, steep canyons and ridges, many with slopes of over 50 percent, were formed. Of note is that the downstream reach of the river "may be uplifting as much as ten times faster than the headwaters area". In much of the middle and lower course of the South Fork Eel, the riverbed is mostly bare gravel, with sparse vegetation, and without a floodplain
. The riverbed lies in a downcut channel, with its walls formed by bedrock with scattering of rocks. Bedrock river terraces surround the river, forming the "only level land in an otherwise rugged terrain of narrow ridges and steep [v]alleys".
mainstem and west and north to the boundary with the Athapascan. The lower section of the South Fork Eel was also said to be a boundary between tribes, although this claim is only "probable".
In 1928, the Benbow Dam was built across the South Fork near Benbow, California
, which led to the creation of a slackwater pool, Benbow Lake, and the creation of the Benbow Lake State Recreation Area
. Currently, during the rainy season, the floodgates of the dam are opened, and the lake is nonexistent. The lake only exists during the summer, when lower flows are impounded behind the structure for recreation. However, as the stagnant water in the lake is typically heated by the sun to a higher temperature than normal, when it is released downstream it severely hurts salmon and steelhead runs, as well as other aquatic and migratory life. State plans to decommission the dam are underway, although its removal would severely hurt local economy. Since 2009 the dam was no longer erected, and there seem to be no plans to build the lake in future years. dam decommissioning is happening at the nearby Klamath, and other dams are soon to follow. the dan at Benbow Lake does not need to be decommissioned, since it is only a seasonal structure, when erected.
The 12915 acres (52.3 km²) South Fork Eel River Wilderness was designated in 2006, stretching along portions of the South Fork Eel and extending westward to the Pacific Ocean. The wilderness area borders that of the King Range Wilderness
, which is said to be the "longest stretch of undeveloped coastline in the United States outside of Alaska".
, coho salmon
and steelhead, and it is said that "the South Fork Eel River once supported about half of the total coho run for the State of California". Historically, the population of chinook was 20,000 while coho averaged 16,000 at Benbow Dam in the 1930s. Since then, the population has steadily declined, with a current population of roughly 1,000. The reason for the decline is the high amount of silt carried into the river by logging activity and road construction. The silt has filled stream pools and caused higher turbidity, which has harmed fish. The South Fork is said to be the last habitat in the State of California for wild coho.
Several tributaries, such as Hollow Tree Creek, also support anadromous fish, but they have become impaired in ways similar to the South Fork Eel.
Eel River (California)
The Eel River is a major river system of the northern Pacific coast of the U.S. state of California. Approximately 200 miles long, it drains a rugged area in the California Coast Ranges between the Sacramento Valley and the ocean. For most of its course, the river flows northwest, parallel to the...
, in the north-central part of the U.S. state
U.S. state
A U.S. state is any one of the 50 federated states of the United States of America that share sovereignty with the federal government. Because of this shared sovereignty, an American is a citizen both of the federal entity and of his or her state of domicile. Four states use the official title of...
of California
California
California is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area...
. The river flows north 105 miles (169 km) from Laytonville
Laytonville, California
Laytonville is a census-designated place in Mendocino County, California, United States. Laytonville, is located north-northwest of Willits, at an elevation of 1670 feet...
to Dyerville/Founders' Grove where it joins the Eel River on the left bank. The South Fork's watershed of about 689 mi2 drains a long and narrow portion of the Coast Range of California, covering parts of Mendocino and Humboldt
Humboldt County, California
Humboldt County is a county in the U.S. state of California, located on the far North Coast 200 miles north of San Francisco. According to 2010 Census Data, the county’s population was 134,623...
counties. For much of its length, it is paralleled by U.S. Route 101
U.S. Route 101
U.S. Route 101, or U.S. Highway 101, is an important north–south U.S. highway that runs through the states of California, Oregon, and Washington, on the West Coast of the United States...
.
The South Fork originally supported a large population of anadromous fish, although populations have begun to decline in the 20th century. In the upper headwaters of the river, the Kai Pomo Indians, a branch of the Pomo Indians group, originally lived. In the 1920s, a temporary dam, the Benbow Dam, was built on the river near Benbow, California
Benbow, California
Benbow is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California, located beside the South Fork Eel River. It is located south-southeast of Garberville, at an elevation of 440 feet . Its population was 321 at the 2010 census.-History:...
, becoming a major fishkiller. The lower section of the South Fork below the Section Four Creek confluence is designated as a National Wild and Scenic River
National Wild and Scenic River
National Wild and Scenic River is a designation for certain protected areas in the United States.The National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act was an outgrowth of the recommendations of a Presidential commission, the Outdoor Recreation Resources Review Commission...
.
Course
The South Fork Eel River begins near Iron Mountain, at an elevation of 2500 feet (762 m). Its headwaters are near that of the Ten Mile RiverTen Mile River (California)
Ten Mile River is a river in northern Mendocino County, California, United States. It is named for the fact that its mouth is ten miles north of the mouth of the Noyo River. The middle and north forks of the river are each long, and the river extends for seven more miles from their confluence to...
to the south. Dropping off the high plateau it begins on, the South Fork winds north and bends southwest through a steep and narrow canyon. Longvale, California
Longvale, California
Longvale is an unincorporated community in Mendocino County, California. It is located south-southeast of Laytonville, at an elevation of 1191 feet .A post office operated at Longvale from 1911 to 1958....
is a few miles to the east of the headwaters, while Laytonville, California
Laytonville, California
Laytonville is a census-designated place in Mendocino County, California, United States. Laytonville, is located north-northwest of Willits, at an elevation of 1670 feet...
is closer, only about 1 miles (1.6 km) to the north. It is not long after its headwaters that Branscomb Road drops into the South Fork Eel's canyon from the north, paralleling the river. Almost 1 miles (1.6 km) past this point, it receives its first significant tributary
Tributary
A tributary or affluent is a stream or river that flows into a main stem river or a lake. A tributary does not flow directly into a sea or ocean...
, Section Four Creek, on the left bank. Although it is not a large creek, only about 2.5 miles (4 km) long, it denotes the start of the National Wild and Scenic River
National Wild and Scenic River
National Wild and Scenic River is a designation for certain protected areas in the United States.The National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act was an outgrowth of the recommendations of a Presidential commission, the Outdoor Recreation Resources Review Commission...
section of the South Fork. The river meanders swiftly west and turns west-northwest, passing Branscomb, California
Branscomb, California
Branscomb is an unincorporated community in Mendocino County in the U.S. state California. It is located west-southwest of Laytonville, at an elevation of 1565 feet , on a river terrace to the east of the South Fork Eel River....
. Near the city, it receives Rock Creek on the right and Redwood Creek on the left. These two stream names are a common occurrence throughout the South Fork's watershed. Afterwards, it receives its first significant tributary, Tenmile Creek, on the right bank. Tenmile Creek begins in another section of the Coast Range, separated from the South Fork Eel River by two sub-ranges. The creek begins in the easternmost of these two sub-ranges. It then flows west, cutting a water gap
Water gap
A water gap is an opening or notch which flowing water has carved through a mountain range. Water gaps often offer a practical route for road and rail transport to cross mountain ridges.- Geology :...
through the western subrange, and spills into the South Fork. The creek is about 21 miles (33.8 km) long, despite the name.
After the confluence with Tenmile Creek, the South Fork flows generally north, turning west where it receives another major tributary, 11 miles (17.7 km) Rattlesnake Creek, also on the right. This point is significant because it is where it begins to parallel U.S. Highway 101 and California State Route 271
California State Route 271
State Route 271 is a state highway in northern California, USA. It is a former routing of U.S. Route 101 , now reduced to being a frontage road for that route in discontiguous segments. It also connects with Route 1 just before that route's terminus with US 101 in Leggett...
(Redwood Highway and Old Redwood Highway). Both roads come in from the east and at this point are on the river's right bank. The river turns northwest, receiving Big Dann Creek and another large 9 miles (14.5 km) tributary, Cedar Creek
Cedar Creek (South Fork Eel River)
Cedar Creek is an tributary of the South Fork Eel River in Mendocino County in the U.S. state of California. The creek begins southeast of Red Mountain, at an elevation of . It makes an S-curve west-northwest then bends sharply south, dropping into the valley of the South Fork Eel. The confluence...
, on the right bank. Cedar Creek flows west and turns south-southwest, flowing also in a steep, undeveloped gorge. Shortly past Cedar Creek, the South Fork Eel meets another large tributary, Hollow Tree Creek. Hollow Tree Creek flows east, turns north, then turns east again to meet the South Fork, fed by several smaller creeks. The South Fork then turns west again, flowing through the Standish Hickey State Recreational Area. It then meanders north into Richardson Grove State Park
Richardson Grove State Park
Richardson Grove State Park is located at the southernmost border of Humboldt County, south of Eureka, California, United States, and north of San Francisco. The year-round park, which has approximately , straddles US 101, causing the narrowest point of its entire distance. Local residents refer...
on an increasingly wide valley floor, receiving Red Mountain Creek on the right bank.
The river then reaches Benbow Lake, which is inside the Benbow Lake State Recreational Area and next to the town of Benbow, California
Benbow, California
Benbow is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California, located beside the South Fork Eel River. It is located south-southeast of Garberville, at an elevation of 440 feet . Its population was 321 at the 2010 census.-History:...
. Benbow Lake was a seasonal reservoir
Reservoir
A reservoir , artificial lake or dam is used to store water.Reservoirs may be created in river valleys by the construction of a dam or may be built by excavation in the ground or by conventional construction techniques such as brickwork or cast concrete.The term reservoir may also be used to...
, formed by a dam at its western end. The dam was only raised in the summer, and only when water flow is sufficient for impoundment. Since about 2009, the lake no longer gets build, and its good for the ecology of river. At Benbow Lake the South Fork meets its largest tributary, the East Branch South Fork Eel River
East Branch South Fork Eel River
The East Branch South Fork Eel River, a tributary of the South Fork Eel River, is formed by the confluence of Cruso Cabir Creek and Elkhorn Creek, in Mendocino County in the U.S. state of California. The river is roughly long, meandering west to its confluence with the South Fork Eel at Benbow...
. The East Branch, formed by the confluence of two small creeks, Cruso Cabin and Elkhorn Creeks, south of Bell Springs Mountain, flows through a rugged, narrow gorge in a generally northwest direction for about 20 miles (32.2 km). After passing through the Benbow Dam, which is non-functional during the winter months, the South Fork Eel receives another tributary called Redwood Creek on the left bank, as it bends north and then west around the community of Redway, California
Redway, California
Redway is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California, United States. Redway is located northwest of Garberville, at an elevation of 538 feet...
, which is located on a plateau east of the river. The river then passes through another rugged canyon, flowing northeast, then passes the towns of Phillipsville
Phillipsville, California
Phillipsville is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located on the South Fork of the Eel River north of Garberville, at an elevation of 289 feet . It is the southernmost town on the Avenue of the Giants. Near the town is the Chimney Tree...
and Miranda
Miranda, California
Miranda is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located northwest of Phillipsville, at an elevation of 351 feet . The ZIP Code is 95553. The population was 520 at the 2010 census....
which are to the east of the river. West of Miranda, the river receives another medium-sized tributary, Salmon Creek, from the left bank.
The South Fork then flows north to a point where it turns sharply around a ridge and flows due south, then turns back north again. At this point, it is paralleled by Highway 101 on the left bank and by California State Route 254
California State Route 254
The Avenue of the Giants is a scenic highway in Northern California, U.S.A., running through Humboldt Redwoods State Park. It is an old alignment of U.S. Route 101, and continues to be maintained by the state as State Route 254.-Route description:...
(Avenue of the Giants) on the right bank. U.S. 101 then crosses the South Fork, paralleling CA-254. The village of Myers Flat
Myers Flat, California
Myers Flat is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located south-southeast of Weott, at an elevation of 203 feet . The ZIP Code is 95554...
is located on a low slice of terrain north of the river. The South Fork, nearing its mouth, passes Burlington
Burlington, California
Burlington is an locality in Humboldt County, California. It is located southeast of Weott, at an elevation of ....
on the right bank, and Weott, California
Weott, California
Weott is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located 375 km north of San Francisco, California and 40 km due west of the Pacific Ocean. Lower Weott is situated at an elevation of 100m along the Avenue of the Giants and in the flood plain of the South Fork of...
, also on the right bank. Several hundred yards upstream from its confluence, it receives its last major tributary, Bull Creek, on the left bank. Bull Creek, whose watershed is entirely contained inside Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Humboldt Redwoods State Park is located south of Eureka, California in southern Humboldt County, within northern California. Established by the Save-the-Redwoods League in 1921 with the dedication of the Raynal Bolling Memorial Grove, it has grown to become the third largest park in the California...
, begins south of Grasshopper Mountain and flows northwest, then makes a great bend to the west and joins the South Fork. Its length is roughly 8 miles (12.9 km). After receiving Bull Creek, the South Fork Eel curves halfway around a 325 feet (99.1 m) high formation known as "Duckett Bluff",
and receives its last name tributary, Cabin Creek, on the left bank. Meandering through a downcut channel between U.S. 101 and SR 254 (right bank) and California State Route 211
California State Route 211
State Route 211 is a California state highway in Humboldt County that connects Ferndale with U.S. 101.This route is part of the California Freeway and Expressway System.-Route description:...
, it then crosses under the former two highways, spreads wider, and flows into the Eel River.
Watershed
The South Fork Eel River's watershed is a long, narrow, mountainous basin stretching from south to north, covering 689 mi2, or 18.7 percent of the 3684 mi2 Eel River watershed. (The largest Eel River tributary is the Middle Fork Eel RiverMiddle Fork Eel River
The Middle Fork Eel River is a major tributary of the Eel River of northwestern California in the United States. It drains a rugged and sparsely populated region of the Yolla Bolly Mountains, part of the California Coast Range, in Trinity and Mendocino Counties...
, whose watershed covers 753 mi2, or 20.4 percent.) The watershed covers parts of both Humboldt
Humboldt County, California
Humboldt County is a county in the U.S. state of California, located on the far North Coast 200 miles north of San Francisco. According to 2010 Census Data, the county’s population was 134,623...
and Mendocino counties, and parallels but does not border the Pacific coast
Pacific Coast
A country's Pacific coast is the part of its coast bordering the Pacific Ocean.-The Americas:Countries on the western side of the Americas have a Pacific coast as their western border.* Geography of Canada* Geography of Chile* Geography of Colombia...
. In general, the extent of the river's watershed can be denoted by U.S. Highway 101, which parallels the river for most of its length. It can also be seen as the stretch of land between Laytonville, California
Laytonville, California
Laytonville is a census-designated place in Mendocino County, California, United States. Laytonville, is located north-northwest of Willits, at an elevation of 1670 feet...
and Weott
Weott, California
Weott is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located 375 km north of San Francisco, California and 40 km due west of the Pacific Ocean. Lower Weott is situated at an elevation of 100m along the Avenue of the Giants and in the flood plain of the South Fork of...
(about 144 miles (231.7 km) and 193 miles (310.6 km) north of the city of San Francisco, respectively. The reason for the river's longer length is its meander
Meander
A meander in general is a bend in a sinuous watercourse. A meander is formed when the moving water in a stream erodes the outer banks and widens its valley. A stream of any volume may assume a meandering course, alternately eroding sediments from the outside of a bend and depositing them on the...
ing.) The highest point in the watershed is Iron Peak, elevation 4491 feet (1,368.9 m), and the mouth of the River is at roughly 100 feet (30.5 m), denoting the lowest point.
The river's watershed, due to its rugged and remote location, is thinly populated. Although U.S. Highway 101 and California State Route 271
California State Route 271
State Route 271 is a state highway in northern California, USA. It is a former routing of U.S. Route 101 , now reduced to being a frontage road for that route in discontiguous segments. It also connects with Route 1 just before that route's terminus with US 101 in Leggett...
follow the river for over 70 percent of its length, there are few communities in the steep and narrow, forested canyon of the South Fork. These towns include Branscomb
Branscomb, California
Branscomb is an unincorporated community in Mendocino County in the U.S. state California. It is located west-southwest of Laytonville, at an elevation of 1565 feet , on a river terrace to the east of the South Fork Eel River....
, Underwood Park
Underwood Park, California
Underwood Park is an unincorporated community in Mendocino County, California. It is located south-southwest of Leggett, at an elevation of 997 feet ....
, Leggett
Leggett, California
Leggett is a census-designated place in Mendocino County, California. It is located on the South Fork of the Eel River northwest of Laytonville, at an elevation of 984 feet . It is home to some of the largest trees in the world...
, Piercy
Piercy, California
Piercy is an unincorporated community in Mendocino County, California. It is located on the South Fork of the Eel River north-northwest of Leggett, at an elevation of 794 feet ....
, Andersonia
Andersonia, California
Andersonia is an unincorporated community in Mendocino County, California. It is located on the South Fork of the Eel River north-northwest of Piercy, at an elevation of 541 feet .- History :...
, Benbow
Benbow, California
Benbow is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California, located beside the South Fork Eel River. It is located south-southeast of Garberville, at an elevation of 440 feet . Its population was 321 at the 2010 census.-History:...
, Garberville
Garberville, California
Garberville is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located on the South Fork of the Eel River south-southeast of Eureka, at an elevation of 535 feet . The population was 913 at the 2010 United States Census...
, Redway
Redway, California
Redway is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California, United States. Redway is located northwest of Garberville, at an elevation of 538 feet...
, Phillipsville
Phillipsville, California
Phillipsville is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located on the South Fork of the Eel River north of Garberville, at an elevation of 289 feet . It is the southernmost town on the Avenue of the Giants. Near the town is the Chimney Tree...
, Miranda
Miranda, California
Miranda is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located northwest of Phillipsville, at an elevation of 351 feet . The ZIP Code is 95553. The population was 520 at the 2010 census....
, Myers Flat
Myers Flat, California
Myers Flat is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located south-southeast of Weott, at an elevation of 203 feet . The ZIP Code is 95554...
, and Weott
Weott, California
Weott is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California. It is located 375 km north of San Francisco, California and 40 km due west of the Pacific Ocean. Lower Weott is situated at an elevation of 100m along the Avenue of the Giants and in the flood plain of the South Fork of...
. In part due to its National Wild and Scenic River
National Wild and Scenic River
National Wild and Scenic River is a designation for certain protected areas in the United States.The National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act was an outgrowth of the recommendations of a Presidential commission, the Outdoor Recreation Resources Review Commission...
status, the South Fork also has a number of state parks and recreation areas along its course. These include Admiral Standley State Park, Standish Hickey State Recreation Area, Smithe Redwoods State Reserve, Richardson Grove State Park
Richardson Grove State Park
Richardson Grove State Park is located at the southernmost border of Humboldt County, south of Eureka, California, United States, and north of San Francisco. The year-round park, which has approximately , straddles US 101, causing the narrowest point of its entire distance. Local residents refer...
, South Fork Eel River Wilderness
South Fork Eel River Wilderness
The South Fork Eel River Wilderness is a 12,868 acre wilderness area located in Mendocino County, California. The wilderness was added to the National Wilderness Preservation System when the United States Congress passed the Northern California Coastal Wild Heritage Wilderness Act in 2006...
, Benbow Lake State Recreation Area
Benbow Lake State Recreation Area
Benbow Lake State Recreation Area is a state park unit of California, USA, established around a reservoir on the South Fork Eel River. It is located in Humboldt County south of Garberville on U.S. Route 101....
, and Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Humboldt Redwoods State Park is located south of Eureka, California in southern Humboldt County, within northern California. Established by the Save-the-Redwoods League in 1921 with the dedication of the Raynal Bolling Memorial Grove, it has grown to become the third largest park in the California...
.
The largest South Fork tributary is the East Branch South Fork Eel River
East Branch South Fork Eel River
The East Branch South Fork Eel River, a tributary of the South Fork Eel River, is formed by the confluence of Cruso Cabir Creek and Elkhorn Creek, in Mendocino County in the U.S. state of California. The river is roughly long, meandering west to its confluence with the South Fork Eel at Benbow...
, which is approximately 25 miles (40.2 km) long. Tenmile Creek, at 21 miles (33.8 km) long, is the second largest tributary. Other major tributaries include Cedar Creek
Cedar Creek (South Fork Eel River)
Cedar Creek is an tributary of the South Fork Eel River in Mendocino County in the U.S. state of California. The creek begins southeast of Red Mountain, at an elevation of . It makes an S-curve west-northwest then bends sharply south, dropping into the valley of the South Fork Eel. The confluence...
, at 7 miles (11.3 km) long and Bull Creek at 14 miles (22.5 km) long. Hollow Tree Creek is another major, 15 miles (24.1 km) tributary, and is fed by a large amount of sub-tributaries. There are many streams with repeating names in the watershed, including Low Gap Creek, Redwood Creek, Rock Creek, and Red Mountain Creek.
Logging
Logging
Logging is the cutting, skidding, on-site processing, and loading of trees or logs onto trucks.In forestry, the term logging is sometimes used in a narrow sense concerning the logistics of moving wood from the stump to somewhere outside the forest, usually a sawmill or a lumber yard...
, although it has mostly ceased in the South Fork Eel watershed, still poses a severe erosion
Erosion
Erosion is when materials are removed from the surface and changed into something else. It only works by hydraulic actions and transport of solids in the natural environment, and leads to the deposition of these materials elsewhere...
situation with steep hillsides stripped bare of vegetation. Historically, and still occasionally nowadays, South Fork Eel River water has an unusual "translucent blue-green hue" when it runs naturally. Logging has caused sediments to wash into the river, increasing turbidity
Turbidity
Turbidity is the cloudiness or haziness of a fluid caused by individual particles that are generally invisible to the naked eye, similar to smoke in air. The measurement of turbidity is a key test of water quality....
and generally transforming the river into a brownish, tannish color. The South Fork Eel is an important Northern California habitat for anadromous fish (see Wildlife section) and clouding of the water has severely degraded conditions for these fish as well as other aquatic life forms.
The rugged topography of the South Fork Eel River watershed also produces an amount of waterfalls from tributary streams. Although there are no major waterfalls on the South Fork or its major tributaries, the East Branch
East Branch South Fork Eel River
The East Branch South Fork Eel River, a tributary of the South Fork Eel River, is formed by the confluence of Cruso Cabir Creek and Elkhorn Creek, in Mendocino County in the U.S. state of California. The river is roughly long, meandering west to its confluence with the South Fork Eel at Benbow...
and Tenmile Creek, there are many on smaller side streams, especially after heavy rainfall. One of the larger waterfalls is Grizzly Creek Falls, which is on a small stream that spills over a rocky cliff for nearly 1000 feet (304.8 m). The steep terrain also causes the river to fall at steep inclines, creating a series of rapids. The river's rapids are well known as a rafting spot.
Streamflow
On average, the river's flow, or dischargeDischarge (hydrology)
In hydrology, discharge is the volume rate of water flow, including any suspended solids , dissolved chemical species and/or biologic material , which is transported through a given cross-sectional area...
, in its middle section can range from 2000 cuft/s to 55 cuft/s. In the lower section near the mouth, the river generally ranges from 5500 cuft/s to 60 cuft/s. The United States Geological Survey
United States Geological Survey
The United States Geological Survey is a scientific agency of the United States government. The scientists of the USGS study the landscape of the United States, its natural resources, and the natural hazards that threaten it. The organization has four major science disciplines, concerning biology,...
operates or operated four stream gauge
Stream gauge
A stream gauge, stream gage or gauging station is a location used by hydrologists or environmental scientists to monitor and test terrestrial bodies of water. Hydrometric measurements of water surface elevation and/or volumetric discharge are generally taken and observations of biota may also be...
s on the South Fork, at Miranda, Garberville, Leggett, and Branscomb. For Miranda, the location closest to the mouth, the highest recorded peak was 199000 cuft/s on 22 December 1964, with a the minimum of 10 cuft/s on 30 August 1964.
For Garberville, a stream gauge was only operated from 1912–1913, and again in 1940. Peak discharges of 64700 cuft/s were recorded in both 1912 and 1913, while for 1940, the peak was 55600 cuft/s.
The Leggett stream gauge began operating in 1965 and is still in use. The highest flow recorded was 72700 cuft/s on 4 January 1966. A higher peak flow of 78700 cuft/s, on 22 December 1964, before the stream gauge was in place, was determined using flood stage
Flood stage
Flood stage is the level at which the surface of a river, creek, or other body of water has risen to a sufficient level to cause damage or affects use of man-made structures...
height data and floodmark measurements. The minimum discharge recorded by this gauge was 7.3 cuft/s on 4 August 1977.
For Branscomb, the location furthest upstream, the highest flow recorded was 20100 cuft/s on 22 December 1955, while the lowest was 0.86 cuft/s on 27 July 1977.
Geology
The watershed is underlain by the Franciscan AssemblageFranciscan Assemblage
The Franciscan Assemblage is a geological term for an accreted terrane of heterogeneous rocks found on and near the San Francisco Peninsula. It was named by geologist Andrew Lawson who also named the San Andreas Fault which bounds the Franciscan Assemblage....
, which consists of soft soil and rock in this region. The formation is created by the San Andreas Fault
San Andreas Fault
The San Andreas Fault is a continental strike-slip fault that runs a length of roughly through California in the United States. The fault's motion is right-lateral strike-slip...
, and comprises most of California's Coast Range. The steep terrain in the South Fork Eel's watershed is the result of continuous uplift
Tectonic uplift
Tectonic uplift is a geological process most often caused by plate tectonics which increases elevation. The opposite of uplift is subsidence, which results in a decrease in elevation. Uplift may be orogenic or isostatic.-Orogenic uplift:...
along the San Andreas Fault, and coinciding with the erosion caused by the river and its tributaries, steep canyons and ridges, many with slopes of over 50 percent, were formed. Of note is that the downstream reach of the river "may be uplifting as much as ten times faster than the headwaters area". In much of the middle and lower course of the South Fork Eel, the riverbed is mostly bare gravel, with sparse vegetation, and without a floodplain
Floodplain
A floodplain, or flood plain, is a flat or nearly flat land adjacent a stream or river that stretches from the banks of its channel to the base of the enclosing valley walls and experiences flooding during periods of high discharge...
. The riverbed lies in a downcut channel, with its walls formed by bedrock with scattering of rocks. Bedrock river terraces surround the river, forming the "only level land in an otherwise rugged terrain of narrow ridges and steep [v]alleys".
History
Prior to white settlement of Central California, much of the Eel River watershed was inhabited by Pomo Indians and Athapascan peoples. The "extreme headwaters" of the South Fork of the Eel River, as well as the East Fork of the South Fork of the Eel River, were inhabited by the Kai Pomo, whose territory stretched westward to the Eel RiverEel River (California)
The Eel River is a major river system of the northern Pacific coast of the U.S. state of California. Approximately 200 miles long, it drains a rugged area in the California Coast Ranges between the Sacramento Valley and the ocean. For most of its course, the river flows northwest, parallel to the...
mainstem and west and north to the boundary with the Athapascan. The lower section of the South Fork Eel was also said to be a boundary between tribes, although this claim is only "probable".
In 1928, the Benbow Dam was built across the South Fork near Benbow, California
Benbow, California
Benbow is a census-designated place in Humboldt County, California, located beside the South Fork Eel River. It is located south-southeast of Garberville, at an elevation of 440 feet . Its population was 321 at the 2010 census.-History:...
, which led to the creation of a slackwater pool, Benbow Lake, and the creation of the Benbow Lake State Recreation Area
Benbow Lake State Recreation Area
Benbow Lake State Recreation Area is a state park unit of California, USA, established around a reservoir on the South Fork Eel River. It is located in Humboldt County south of Garberville on U.S. Route 101....
. Currently, during the rainy season, the floodgates of the dam are opened, and the lake is nonexistent. The lake only exists during the summer, when lower flows are impounded behind the structure for recreation. However, as the stagnant water in the lake is typically heated by the sun to a higher temperature than normal, when it is released downstream it severely hurts salmon and steelhead runs, as well as other aquatic and migratory life. State plans to decommission the dam are underway, although its removal would severely hurt local economy. Since 2009 the dam was no longer erected, and there seem to be no plans to build the lake in future years. dam decommissioning is happening at the nearby Klamath, and other dams are soon to follow. the dan at Benbow Lake does not need to be decommissioned, since it is only a seasonal structure, when erected.
The 12915 acres (52.3 km²) South Fork Eel River Wilderness was designated in 2006, stretching along portions of the South Fork Eel and extending westward to the Pacific Ocean. The wilderness area borders that of the King Range Wilderness
King Range Wilderness
The King Range Wilderness is a federally designated wilderness area within the King Range National Conservation Area in northern California, United States. The area was set aside with the passage of the Northern California Coastal Wild Heritage Wilderness Act of 2006...
, which is said to be the "longest stretch of undeveloped coastline in the United States outside of Alaska".
Natural history
The South Fork Eel was historically rich in salmon and other species of anadromous fish, and has been known as the "most productive sub-basin for anadromous fish". The main anadromous fishes in the South Fork are chinook salmonChinook salmon
The Chinook salmon, Oncorhynchus tshawytscha, is the largest species in the pacific salmon family. Other commonly used names for the species include King salmon, Quinnat salmon, Spring salmon and Tyee salmon...
, coho salmon
Coho salmon
The Coho salmon, Oncorhynchus kisutch, is a species of anadromous fish in the salmon family. Coho salmon are also known as silver salmon or "silvers". It is the state animal of Chiba, Japan.-Description:...
and steelhead, and it is said that "the South Fork Eel River once supported about half of the total coho run for the State of California". Historically, the population of chinook was 20,000 while coho averaged 16,000 at Benbow Dam in the 1930s. Since then, the population has steadily declined, with a current population of roughly 1,000. The reason for the decline is the high amount of silt carried into the river by logging activity and road construction. The silt has filled stream pools and caused higher turbidity, which has harmed fish. The South Fork is said to be the last habitat in the State of California for wild coho.
Several tributaries, such as Hollow Tree Creek, also support anadromous fish, but they have become impaired in ways similar to the South Fork Eel.
List of tributaries
- Cabin Creek
- Bull Creek
- Tepee Creek
- Cow Creek
- Cornick Creek
- Calf Creek
- Miller Creek
- Harper Creek
- Squaw Creek
- Albee Creek
- Mill Creek
- Cuneo Creek
- North Fork Cuneo Creek
- Burns Creek
- Panther Creek
- Decker Creek
- Corner Creek
- Mill Creek
- Robinson Creek
- Feese Creek
- Canoe Creek
- North Fork Canoe Creek
- Mowry Creek
- Coon Creek
- Kerr Creek
- Bridge Creek
- Elk Creek
- Dry Creek
- Salmon Creek
- Mill Creek
- South Fork Salmon Creek
- Bogus Creek
- Kinsey Creek
- Tostin Creek
- Hacker Creek
- Butte Creek
- Coon Creek
- Fish Creek
- Anderson Creek
- Olvnan Creek
- Rocky Glen Creek
- Hooker Creek
- William Creek
- Tuttle Creek
- Dean Creek
- Leggett Creek
- Redwood Creek
- Seely Creek
- Somerville Creek
- Miller Creek
- China Creek
- Dinner Creek
- Bluff Creek
- Bear Canyon Creek
- South Fork Bear Canyon Creek
- Connick Creek
- Sproul Creek
- West Fork Sproul Creek
- Little Sproul Creek
- Sawmill Creek
- East Branch South Fork Eel RiverEast Branch South Fork Eel RiverThe East Branch South Fork Eel River, a tributary of the South Fork Eel River, is formed by the confluence of Cruso Cabir Creek and Elkhorn Creek, in Mendocino County in the U.S. state of California. The river is roughly long, meandering west to its confluence with the South Fork Eel at Benbow...
- Buck Mountain Creek
- Squaw Creek
- West Branch Squaw Creek
- Rancheria Creek
- Rays Creek
- Tom Long Creek
- North Fork Tom Long Creek
- Cruso Cabin Creek
- Elkhorn Creek
- Fish Creek
- Durphy Creek
- Hartsook Creek
- Milk Ranch Creek
- Low Gap Creek
- Indian Creek
- Jones Creek
- Parker Creek
- Piercy Creek
- Standley Creek
- McCoy Creek
- Bear Pen Creek
- Cub Creek
- Red Mountain Creek
- Holohan Gulch
- Mud Creek
- Wildcat Creek
- Bridges Creek
- Dora Creek
- Mill Creek
- Rock Creek
- Hollow Tree Creek
- South Fork Hollow Tree Creek
- Mule Creek
- Middle Creek
- Lost Man Creek
- Lost Pipe Creek
- Walters Creek
- Bear Creek
- Redwood Creek
- Bond Creek
- Michaels Creek
- Doctors Creek
- Lynch Creek
- Doctors Creek
- Waldron Creek
- Bear Pen Creek
- Huckleberry Creek
- Bear Wallow Creek
- Little Bear Wallow Creek
- Lynch Gap
- Butler Creek
- Right Fork Butler Creek
- Mitchell Creek
- South Fork Hollow Tree Creek
- Cedar CreekCedar Creek (South Fork Eel River)Cedar Creek is an tributary of the South Fork Eel River in Mendocino County in the U.S. state of California. The creek begins southeast of Red Mountain, at an elevation of . It makes an S-curve west-northwest then bends sharply south, dropping into the valley of the South Fork Eel. The confluence...
- Little Cedar Creek
- "Blue Rock Creek"
- Big Dann Creek
- Little Dann Creek
- Grizzly Creek
- Low Gap Creek
- Little Low Gap Creek
- Rattlesnake Creek
- Squaw Creek
- Measly Creek
- Wilson Creek
- Foster Creek
- Elk Creek
- Cummings Creek
- Twin Rocks Creek
- Grapevine Creek
- Hogshed Creek
- Surveyors Canyon
- Tenmile Creek
- Peterson Creek
- Grub Creek
- Cold Creek
- Spring Creek
- Steep Gulch
- Streeter Creek
- "Sand Rock Creek"
- Lewis Creek
- Big Rock Creek
- Stapp Creek
- Wilson Creek
- Mud Springs Creek
- Tuttle Creek
- Little Case Creek
- Mill Creek
- Cahto Creek
- Piggy Springs
- Fox Creek
- McKinley Creek
- Elder Creek
- Misery Creek
- Jack of Hearts Creek
- Dark Canyon
- Deer Creek
- Little Charlie Creek
- Dutch Charlie Creek
- Thompson Creek
- Eagle Creek
- Redwood Creek
- North Fork Redwood Creek
- Rock Creek
- Muddy Gulch Creek
- Kenny Creek
- Haun Creek
- Mud Creek
- Grapevine Creek
- Taylor Creek
- Bear Creek
- Little Rock Creek
- Section Four Creek
- Windem Creek
- Middleton Creek
See also
- List of South Fork Eel River crossings
- Confusion Hill BridgesConfusion Hill BridgesThe Confusion Hill Bridges are a pair of high bridges carrying two lanes of U.S. Highway 101 over the South Fork Eel River in Mendocino County in the U.S. state of California...
- Confusion Hill Bridges
- List of Eel River crossings (California)
- North Fork Eel RiverNorth Fork Eel RiverThe North Fork Eel River is the smallest of four major tributaries of the Eel River in northwestern California in the United States. It drains a rugged wilderness area of about in the California Coast Ranges, and flows through national forests for much of its length...
- Middle Fork Eel RiverMiddle Fork Eel RiverThe Middle Fork Eel River is a major tributary of the Eel River of northwestern California in the United States. It drains a rugged and sparsely populated region of the Yolla Bolly Mountains, part of the California Coast Range, in Trinity and Mendocino Counties...
- Van Duzen RiverVan Duzen RiverThe Van Duzen River is a river on the north coast of California. It is a major tributary of the Eel River and drains , mostly in Humboldt County, with a small portion in Trinity County. The river travels from its headwaters on the west side of the North Coast Range to its confluence with the Eel...
- List of rivers of California
Works cited
- Barrett, Samuel Alfred (1908). The ethno-geography of the Pomo and neighboring Indians. Harvard University: The University Press.
- Durham, David L. (2001). Durham's Place Names of the California North Coast: Includes Del Norte, Humbolt, Lake, Mendocino & Trinity Counties. Quill Driver Books. ISBN 1-88499-5268.
- Pike, Charlie (2001). Paddling Northern California. Globe Pequot. ISBN 1-56044-968-3.
External links
- California Coastal Watersheds
- North Coast Region Watershed Map Note: South Fork Eel River is in dark red, near the center