Rimless eyeglasses
Encyclopedia
Rimless eyeglasses, are a type of eyeglasses in which the lenses are mounted directly to the bridge and/or temples by way of a series of screws, rather than the lenses being secured inside of frames which encircle the lens. The style is divided into two subtypes: three piece glasses are composed of lenses mounted to a bridge and two separate temple arms, while rimways (also called cortlands) feature a supporting arch that connects the temples to the bridge and provides extra stability for the lenses.
Rimless glasses were a popular style of eyeglasses in America from the 1880s until into the 1960s, and re-emerged in popularity in the latter part of the 20th century and early 21st century.
. The design as it is known today arose in the 1880s as a means to alleviate the combined weight of metal frames with heavy glass lenses. The style also came about from a desire to make eyewear as inconspicuous as possible; at the time, eyeglasses were not considered an acceptable fashion statement and carried connotations of one being elderly or a member of the clergy
; historically, most eyeglass wearers needed them to correct presbyopia
, and only clergymen tended to be literate enough to require reading glasses.
, with manufacturers arguing that the design was superior to extant eyeglasses because it secured the lenses directly to the nose and kept them in place. The style became popularized in the years prior to World War I
by Theodore Roosevelt
.
During this same period, another style became available in which the lenses were mounted to two arms as well as a bridge; the style became known as three piece glasses for the three separate structural components. The most popular three piece style was known as a riding temple, and was modeled after a style of eyeglasses favored by those who relied on horses for transportation. The style lacked nosepads, and featured small, oval lenses designed to sit flush with the face by way of the combined efforts of curved temples that conformed to the back of the wearer's ears and a curved nosepiece that conformed to the bridge of the nose. The design eliminated any obstruction of vision caused by eyeglass frames and also kept the glasses secure on the wearer's head.
, the pince nez became less practical because of subtle shifts in the position of the lenses caused by the wearer moving his or her head. With the implementation of nosepads in 1920, the three-piece style surpassed the pince nez in popularity; the new design allowed wearers to adjust the position of glasses on the face, and also permitted for a wide variety of lens shapes, with optometrists offering over 300 options by 1940 (though variations on circles, ovals, and octagons remained most popular).
Also in the 1920s, a new style appeared in which an "arch" connected the bridge to the temples, to provide extra stability for the lenses; the mounting technique was referred to as "Shurset" ("sure set") . Although the design would be considered a variant of "semi-rimless" glasses in the latter part of the 20th century, the style was considered rimless upon its inception because no part of the lens was secured inside of a frame; modern semi-rimless eyewear features lenses partially secured inside of a half-frame, with the lower portion of the lens held in place by nylon wire. Though traditionally called "Rimways," this variation was also referred to as Cortland style . A variation utilizing only two screws and which only secured the lenses to the bridge was called the Numont or the Two Screw Cortland ; the removal of the temporal screws was considered to be a cosmetic improvement.
During the 1940s, the United States Army
adopted the numont as a style available to soldiers requiring eyewear. Although rounded, wire-rimmed frames were the most popular choice, some participants in World War II
wore numonts.
Three-piece glasses with temples and nosepads remained popular from the 1920s until the end of the 1950s; during the same period, Rimway glasses began to edge them out in popularity, and once three-piece glasses had fallen out of favor, remained in style into the 1960s
. Paul Verhoeven chose a pair for Kurtwood Smith
to wear as villain Clarence Boddicker in Robocop
specifically because the glasses' intellectual associations would clash with the character's violent personality, a dichotomy that he believed recalled the similarly bespectacled Heinrich Himmler
.
frames, which, coupled with polycarbonate
lenses, made the glasses virtually weightless on the wearer's face. The favoring of rimless glasses by a variety of public figures also served to increase their popularity; in 2008, demand rose for rimlesss titanium glasses similar to those worn by Sarah Palin
during public appearances during the 2008 United States Presidential Election. In 2011, the waning popularity of rimless glasses-- which were being supplanted by horn-rimmed glasses
-- was invigorated following the death of Steve Jobs
, whose round, rimless frames had become an iconic part of his appearance. In the weeks following Jobs' death, Marc Jacobs
, the manufacturer who had designed Jobs' glasses in 1998, were inundated with requests for identical frames, to the point that the company had to place consumers on a three-month waiting list. Similarly, trade shows throughout the world-- especially in Asia
-- quickly sold out as consumer demand rose for glasses like Jobs'.
of constant stress to the lenses caused by putting on, wearing, and removing glasses. Rimways fare much better with CR-39 because the arches absorb shock and stress. The implementation of polycarbonate-- the material used to make bullet proof glass-- in addition to making rimless glasses even lighter, reduces the glasses' fragility as polycarbonate can endure a great amount of stress and is highly impact resistant. To ensure both the longevity of the glasses and as a safety precaution, more optical labs are refusing to mount CR-39 lenses in rimless frames, and British
optical labs have uniformly adopted a policy of only processing polycarbonate lenses for rimless frames.
Rimless glasses were a popular style of eyeglasses in America from the 1880s until into the 1960s, and re-emerged in popularity in the latter part of the 20th century and early 21st century.
Origins
The template for rimless eyeglasses date back to the 1820s, when an Austrian inventor named J.F. Voigtlander marketed a rimless monocleMonocle
A monocle is a type of corrective lens used to correct or enhance the vision in only one eye. It consists of a circular lens, generally with a wire ring around the circumference that can be attached to a string. The other end of the string is then connected to the wearer's clothing to avoid losing...
. The design as it is known today arose in the 1880s as a means to alleviate the combined weight of metal frames with heavy glass lenses. The style also came about from a desire to make eyewear as inconspicuous as possible; at the time, eyeglasses were not considered an acceptable fashion statement and carried connotations of one being elderly or a member of the clergy
Clergy
Clergy is the generic term used to describe the formal religious leadership within a given religion. A clergyman, churchman or cleric is a member of the clergy, especially one who is a priest, preacher, pastor, or other religious professional....
; historically, most eyeglass wearers needed them to correct presbyopia
Presbyopia
Presbyopia is a condition where the eye exhibits a progressively diminished ability to focus on near objects with age. Presbyopia’s exact mechanisms are not known with certainty; the research evidence most strongly supports a loss of elasticity of the crystalline lens, although changes in the...
, and only clergymen tended to be literate enough to require reading glasses.
1800s-1920s
Rimless glasses were first widely offered as pince-nezPince-nez
Pince-nez are a style of spectacles, popular in the 19th century, which are supported without earpieces, by pinching the bridge of the nose. The name comes from French pincer, to pinch, and nez, nose....
, with manufacturers arguing that the design was superior to extant eyeglasses because it secured the lenses directly to the nose and kept them in place. The style became popularized in the years prior to World War I
World War I
World War I , which was predominantly called the World War or the Great War from its occurrence until 1939, and the First World War or World War I thereafter, was a major war centred in Europe that began on 28 July 1914 and lasted until 11 November 1918...
by Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore "Teddy" Roosevelt was the 26th President of the United States . He is noted for his exuberant personality, range of interests and achievements, and his leadership of the Progressive Movement, as well as his "cowboy" persona and robust masculinity...
.
During this same period, another style became available in which the lenses were mounted to two arms as well as a bridge; the style became known as three piece glasses for the three separate structural components. The most popular three piece style was known as a riding temple, and was modeled after a style of eyeglasses favored by those who relied on horses for transportation. The style lacked nosepads, and featured small, oval lenses designed to sit flush with the face by way of the combined efforts of curved temples that conformed to the back of the wearer's ears and a curved nosepiece that conformed to the bridge of the nose. The design eliminated any obstruction of vision caused by eyeglass frames and also kept the glasses secure on the wearer's head.
1920s-1960s
As more optometrists began to diagnose astigmatismAstigmatism
An optical system with astigmatism is one where rays that propagate in two perpendicular planes have different foci. If an optical system with astigmatism is used to form an image of a cross, the vertical and horizontal lines will be in sharp focus at two different distances...
, the pince nez became less practical because of subtle shifts in the position of the lenses caused by the wearer moving his or her head. With the implementation of nosepads in 1920, the three-piece style surpassed the pince nez in popularity; the new design allowed wearers to adjust the position of glasses on the face, and also permitted for a wide variety of lens shapes, with optometrists offering over 300 options by 1940 (though variations on circles, ovals, and octagons remained most popular).
Also in the 1920s, a new style appeared in which an "arch" connected the bridge to the temples, to provide extra stability for the lenses; the mounting technique was referred to as "Shurset" ("sure set") . Although the design would be considered a variant of "semi-rimless" glasses in the latter part of the 20th century, the style was considered rimless upon its inception because no part of the lens was secured inside of a frame; modern semi-rimless eyewear features lenses partially secured inside of a half-frame, with the lower portion of the lens held in place by nylon wire. Though traditionally called "Rimways," this variation was also referred to as Cortland style . A variation utilizing only two screws and which only secured the lenses to the bridge was called the Numont or the Two Screw Cortland ; the removal of the temporal screws was considered to be a cosmetic improvement.
During the 1940s, the United States Army
United States Army
The United States Army is the main branch of the United States Armed Forces responsible for land-based military operations. It is the largest and oldest established branch of the U.S. military, and is one of seven U.S. uniformed services...
adopted the numont as a style available to soldiers requiring eyewear. Although rounded, wire-rimmed frames were the most popular choice, some participants in World War II
World War II
World War II, or the Second World War , was a global conflict lasting from 1939 to 1945, involving most of the world's nations—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing military alliances: the Allies and the Axis...
wore numonts.
Three-piece glasses with temples and nosepads remained popular from the 1920s until the end of the 1950s; during the same period, Rimway glasses began to edge them out in popularity, and once three-piece glasses had fallen out of favor, remained in style into the 1960s
1980s
Rimless glasses began to become popular again in the latter part of the 20th century, particularly a brief renaissance in the 1980s. In the 1980s, Rimways were often featured in movies to indicate that a character was an intellectual; Wilford Brimley wore a pair as scientist Blair in The Thing, as did Corey Feldman while playing a child inventor in Friday the 13th: The Final ChapterFriday the 13th: The Final Chapter
Friday the 13th: The Final Chapter is a 1984 slasher film. It is the fourth film in the Friday the 13th film series. Though it was billed as "The Final Chapter," there have been many further sequels in the franchise. The popularity and financial success of the film, which grossed over $32 million,...
. Paul Verhoeven chose a pair for Kurtwood Smith
Kurtwood Smith
Kurtwood Larson Smith is an American television and film actor. He is best known for playing Clarence Boddicker in RoboCop and stern parental characters , and for his appearances in the genre of science fiction...
to wear as villain Clarence Boddicker in Robocop
RoboCop
RoboCop is a 1987 American science fiction-action film directed by Paul Verhoeven. Set in a crime-ridden Detroit, Michigan in the near future, RoboCop centers on a police officer who is brutally murdered and subsequently re-created as a super-human cyborg known as "RoboCop"...
specifically because the glasses' intellectual associations would clash with the character's violent personality, a dichotomy that he believed recalled the similarly bespectacled Heinrich Himmler
Heinrich Himmler
Heinrich Luitpold Himmler was Reichsführer of the SS, a military commander, and a leading member of the Nazi Party. As Chief of the German Police and the Minister of the Interior from 1943, Himmler oversaw all internal and external police and security forces, including the Gestapo...
.
2000s-2010s
Three-piece glasses rose in popularity in the early 21st century with the implementation of lightweight titaniumTitanium
Titanium is a chemical element with the symbol Ti and atomic number 22. It has a low density and is a strong, lustrous, corrosion-resistant transition metal with a silver color....
frames, which, coupled with polycarbonate
Polycarbonate
PolycarbonatePhysical PropertiesDensity 1.20–1.22 g/cm3Abbe number 34.0Refractive index 1.584–1.586FlammabilityV0-V2Limiting oxygen index25–27%Water absorption – Equilibrium0.16–0.35%Water absorption – over 24 hours0.1%...
lenses, made the glasses virtually weightless on the wearer's face. The favoring of rimless glasses by a variety of public figures also served to increase their popularity; in 2008, demand rose for rimlesss titanium glasses similar to those worn by Sarah Palin
Sarah Palin
Sarah Louise Palin is an American politician, commentator and author. As the Republican Party nominee for Vice President in the 2008 presidential election, she was the first Alaskan on the national ticket of a major party and first Republican woman nominated for the vice-presidency.She was...
during public appearances during the 2008 United States Presidential Election. In 2011, the waning popularity of rimless glasses-- which were being supplanted by horn-rimmed glasses
Horn-rimmed glasses
Horn-rimmed glasses are a type of eyeglasses. Originally made out of either horn or tortoise shell, for most of their history they have actually been constructed out of thick plastics designed to imitate those materials...
-- was invigorated following the death of Steve Jobs
Steve Jobs
Steven Paul Jobs was an American businessman and inventor widely recognized as a charismatic pioneer of the personal computer revolution. He was co-founder, chairman, and chief executive officer of Apple Inc...
, whose round, rimless frames had become an iconic part of his appearance. In the weeks following Jobs' death, Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs is an American fashion designer. He is the head designer for Marc Jacobs, as well as Marc by Marc Jacobs, a diffusion line, with more than 200 retail stores in 60 countries. He has been the creative director of the French design house Louis Vuitton since 1997...
, the manufacturer who had designed Jobs' glasses in 1998, were inundated with requests for identical frames, to the point that the company had to place consumers on a three-month waiting list. Similarly, trade shows throughout the world-- especially in Asia
Asia
Asia is the world's largest and most populous continent, located primarily in the eastern and northern hemispheres. It covers 8.7% of the Earth's total surface area and with approximately 3.879 billion people, it hosts 60% of the world's current human population...
-- quickly sold out as consumer demand rose for glasses like Jobs'.
Durability and stability
Because they lack frames, rimless glasses can sustain damage more easily than other eyeglasses designs; eyeglass labs throughout the United States report that consumers are two to ten times more likely to require new lenses in three-piece frames than any other eyeglass design. This is nominally a result of the material used to produce the lenses: Although relatively durable inside of frames, CR-39 lacks impact resistance and cannot absorb the wear and tearWear and tear
Wear and tear is damage that naturally and inevitably occurs as a result of normal wear or aging. It is used in a legal context for such areas as warranty contracts from manufacturers, which usually stipulate that damage due to wear and tear will not be covered.Wear and tear is a form of...
of constant stress to the lenses caused by putting on, wearing, and removing glasses. Rimways fare much better with CR-39 because the arches absorb shock and stress. The implementation of polycarbonate-- the material used to make bullet proof glass-- in addition to making rimless glasses even lighter, reduces the glasses' fragility as polycarbonate can endure a great amount of stress and is highly impact resistant. To ensure both the longevity of the glasses and as a safety precaution, more optical labs are refusing to mount CR-39 lenses in rimless frames, and British
Great Britain
Great Britain or Britain is an island situated to the northwest of Continental Europe. It is the ninth largest island in the world, and the largest European island, as well as the largest of the British Isles...
optical labs have uniformly adopted a policy of only processing polycarbonate lenses for rimless frames.