Sewing needle
Encyclopedia
A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needles were made of bone
or wood
; modern ones are manufactured from high carbon steel wire, nickel
- or 18K gold
plated for corrosion
resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are plated with two-thirds platinum
and one-thirds titanium alloy
. Traditionally, needles have been kept in needle books or needle cases which have become an object of adornment.
A needle for hand sewing has a hole, called the eye
, at the blunt end to carry thread or cord through the fabric after the pointed end pierces it.
Hand sewing needles come in a variety of types/ classes designed according to their intended use and in a variety of sizes within each type.
, is that within any given class of needle the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 9 needle will be thicker and longer than a size 12 needle-- however, a size 10 of one class may be (and in some cases actually is) either thinner or finer than a size 12 of another type (see table below). Where a packet contains a needle count followed by two size numbers such as "20 Sharps 5/10" the second set of numbers correspond to the range of sizes of needle within the packet, in this case typically ten sharps needles of size 5 and ten of size 10 (for a total of 20 needles). As another example, a packet labeled "16 Milliners 3/9" would contain 16 milliners needles ranging in sizes from 3 to 9.
left elaborate traces of their sewing technology, especially thimble
s and needles. Even earlier Stone Age
finds, such as the excavations on the island of Öland
at Alby, Sweden, reveal objects such as bone
needle cases dating to 6000 BC. Ivory needles were also found dated to 30,000 years ago at the Kostenki
site in Russia.
Native Americans
were known to use sewing needles from natural sources. One such source, the agave
plant, provided both the needle and the "thread." The agave leaf would be soaked for an extended period of time, leaving a pulp, long, stringy fibers and a sharp tip connecting the ends of the fibers. The "needle" is essentially what was the tip end of the leaf. Once the fibers dried, the fibers and "needle" could then be used to sew together skins and other items used in a cloth-like manner.
Bone
Bones are rigid organs that constitute part of the endoskeleton of vertebrates. They support, and protect the various organs of the body, produce red and white blood cells and store minerals. Bone tissue is a type of dense connective tissue...
or wood
Wood
Wood is a hard, fibrous tissue found in many trees. It has been used for hundreds of thousands of years for both fuel and as a construction material. It is an organic material, a natural composite of cellulose fibers embedded in a matrix of lignin which resists compression...
; modern ones are manufactured from high carbon steel wire, nickel
Nickel
Nickel is a chemical element with the chemical symbol Ni and atomic number 28. It is a silvery-white lustrous metal with a slight golden tinge. Nickel belongs to the transition metals and is hard and ductile...
- or 18K gold
Gold
Gold is a chemical element with the symbol Au and an atomic number of 79. Gold is a dense, soft, shiny, malleable and ductile metal. Pure gold has a bright yellow color and luster traditionally considered attractive, which it maintains without oxidizing in air or water. Chemically, gold is a...
plated for corrosion
Corrosion
Corrosion is the disintegration of an engineered material into its constituent atoms due to chemical reactions with its surroundings. In the most common use of the word, this means electrochemical oxidation of metals in reaction with an oxidant such as oxygen...
resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are plated with two-thirds platinum
Platinum
Platinum is a chemical element with the chemical symbol Pt and an atomic number of 78. Its name is derived from the Spanish term platina del Pinto, which is literally translated into "little silver of the Pinto River." It is a dense, malleable, ductile, precious, gray-white transition metal...
and one-thirds titanium alloy
Titanium alloy
Titanium alloys are metallic materials which contain a mixture of titanium and other chemical elements. Such alloys have very high tensile strength and toughness , light weight, extraordinary corrosion resistance, and ability to withstand extreme temperatures...
. Traditionally, needles have been kept in needle books or needle cases which have become an object of adornment.
A needle for hand sewing has a hole, called the eye
Eye of a needle
The eye of a needle is the section of a sewing needle formed into a loop for pulling thread, located at the end opposite the point. These loops are often shaped like an oval or an "eye", hence the metaphor.-Judaism:...
, at the blunt end to carry thread or cord through the fabric after the pointed end pierces it.
Types of hand sewing needles
- Sharps: Needles used for general hand sewing; built with a sharp point, a round eye, and are of medium length. Those with a double-eyed head are able to carry two strands of thread while minimizing fabric friction.
- AppliquéAppliqueIn its broadest sense, an appliqué is a smaller ornament or device applied to another surface. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration...
: These are considered another all-purpose needle for sewing, appliqué, and patch work.
- EmbroideryEmbroideryEmbroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins....
: Also known as crewelCrewel embroideryCrewel Embroidery, or Crewelwork, is a decorative form of surface embroidery using wool and a variety of different embroidery stitches to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old...
needles; identical to sharps but have a longer eye to enable easier threading of multiple embroidery threads and thicker yarnYarnYarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or...
s.
- Betweens or QuiltingQuiltingQuilting is a sewing method done to join two or more layers of material together to make a thicker padded material. A quilter is the name given to someone who works at quilting. Quilting can be done by hand, by sewing machine, or by a specialist longarm quilting system.The process of quilting uses...
: These needles are shorter than sharps, with a small rounded eye and are used for making fine stitches on heavy fabrics such as in tailoring, quiltQuiltA quilt is a type of bed cover, traditionally composed of three layers of fiber: a woven cloth top, a layer of batting or wadding and a woven back, combined using the technique of quilting. “Quilting” refers to the technique of joining at least two fabric layers by stitches or ties...
making and other detailed handwork; note that some manufacturers also distinguish between quilting needles and quilting between needles, the latter being slightly shorter and narrower than the former.
- Milliners: A class of needles generally longer than sharps, useful for bastingTack (sewing)In sewing, to tack or baste is to make quick, temporary stitching intended to be removed. Tacking is used in a variety of ways:* To temporarily hold a seam or trim in place until it can be permanently sewn, usually with a long running stitch made by hand or machine called a tacking stitch or...
and pleatingPleatA pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference....
, normally used in millinery work.
- Easy- or Self-threading: Also called calyxeyed sharps, side threading, and spiral eye needles, these needles have an open slot into which a thread may easily be guided rather than the usual closed eye design.
- Beading: These needles are very fine, with a narrow eye to enable them to fit through the centre of beads and sequins along with a long shaft to thread and hold a number of beads at a time.
- Bodkin: Also called ballpoints, this is a long, thick needle with a ballpoint end and a large, elongated eye. They can be flat or round and are generally used for threading elastic, ribbon or tape through casings and lace openings.
- Chenille: These are similar to tapestryNeedlepointNeedlepoint is a form of counted thread embroidery in which yarn is stitched through a stiff open weave canvas. Most needlepoint designs completely cover the canvas...
needles but with large, long eyes and a very sharp point to penetrate closely woven fabrics. Useful for ribbonRibbonA ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily for binding and tying. Cloth ribbons, most commonly silk, are often used in connection with clothing, but are also applied for innumerable useful, ornamental and symbolic purposes...
embroidery.
- DarningDarningDarning is a sewing technique for repairing holes or worn areas in fabric or knitting using needle and thread alone. It is often done by hand, but it is also possible to darn with a sewing machine...
: Sometimes called finishing needles, these are designed with a blunt tip and large eye making them similar to tapestry needles but longer; yarn darners are the heaviest sub-variety.
- DollDollA doll is a model of a human being, often used as a toy for children. Dolls have traditionally been used in magic and religious rituals throughout the world, and traditional dolls made of materials like clay and wood are found in the Americas, Asia, Africa and Europe. The earliest documented dolls...
: Not designed for hand sewing at all, these needles are made long and thin and are used for soft sculpturing on dolls, particularly facial details.
- LeatherLeatherLeather is a durable and flexible material created via the tanning of putrescible animal rawhide and skin, primarily cattlehide. It can be produced through different manufacturing processes, ranging from cottage industry to heavy industry.-Forms:...
: Also known as glovers and as wedge needles, these have a triangular point designed to pierce leather without tearing it; often used on leather-like materials such as vinyl and plastic.
- Sailmaker: Similar to leather needles, but the triangular point extends further up the shaft; designed for sewing thick canvas or heavy leather.
- TapestryTapestryTapestry is a form of textile art, traditionally woven on a vertical loom, however it can also be woven on a floor loom as well. It is composed of two sets of interlaced threads, those running parallel to the length and those parallel to the width ; the warp threads are set up under tension on a...
: The large eye on these needles lets them to carry a heavier weight yarn than other needles, and their blunt tip-- usually bent at a slight angle from the rest of the needle-- allows them to pass through loosely-woven fabric such as embroidery canvasCanvasCanvas is an extremely heavy-duty plain-woven fabric used for making sails, tents, marquees, backpacks, and other items for which sturdiness is required. It is also popularly used by artists as a painting surface, typically stretched across a wooden frame...
or even-weaveEven-weaveEven-weave fabric or canvas is any woven textile where the warp and weft threads are of the same size.Even-weave fabrics are typically required as foundations for counted-thread embroidery styles such as cross-stitch, needlepoint, and blackwork so that a stitch of the same "count" will be the same...
material without catching or tearing it; comes in a double-eyed version for use on a mounted frame and with two colors of thread.
- TattingTattingTatting is a technique for handcrafting a particularly durable lace constructed by a series of knots and loops. Tatting can be used to make lace edging as well as doilies, collars, and other decorative pieces. The lace is formed by a pattern of rings and chains formed from a series of cow hitch,...
: These are built long with an even thickness for their entire length, including at the eye, to enable thread to be pulled through the double stitches used in tatting.
- UpholsteryUpholsteryUpholstery is the work of providing furniture, especially seats, with padding, springs, webbing, and fabric or leather covers. The word upholstery comes from the Middle English word upholder, which referred to a tradesman who held up his goods. The term is equally applicable to domestic,...
: These needles are heavy, long needles that may be straight or curved and are used for sewing heavy fabrics, upholstery work, tufting and for tying quilts; the curved variety is practical for difficult situations on furniture where a straight needle will not work Heavy duty 12" needles are used for repairing mattressMattressA mattress is a manufactured product to sleep or lie on, consisting of resilient materials and covered with an outer fabric or ticking. In the developed world it is typically part of a bed set and is placed upon a foundation....
es. Straight sizes: 3"-12" long, curved: 1.5"-6" long.
Needle size
Needle size is denoted by one or more numbers on the manufacturer's packet. The general convention for sizing of needles, like that of wire gaugesWire gauge
Wire gauge is a measurement of how large a wire is, either in diameter or cross sectional area. This determines the amount of electric current a wire can safely carry, as well as its electrical resistance and weight per unit of length...
, is that within any given class of needle the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 9 needle will be thicker and longer than a size 12 needle-- however, a size 10 of one class may be (and in some cases actually is) either thinner or finer than a size 12 of another type (see table below). Where a packet contains a needle count followed by two size numbers such as "20 Sharps 5/10" the second set of numbers correspond to the range of sizes of needle within the packet, in this case typically ten sharps needles of size 5 and ten of size 10 (for a total of 20 needles). As another example, a packet labeled "16 Milliners 3/9" would contain 16 milliners needles ranging in sizes from 3 to 9.
| Size number | Diameter (mm) | Length (mm) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sharps | 8 | 0.61 | 36.5 |
| Sharps | 9 | 0.61 | 34.9 |
| Sharps | 10 | 0.46 | 33.3 |
| Appliqué | 9 | 0.53 | 34.9 |
| Appliqué | 10 | 0.46 | 34.3 |
| Appliqué | 12 | 0.46 | 28.8 |
| Beading | 10 | 0.41 | 54.6 |
| Beading | 13 | 0.41 | 48.5 |
| Chenille | 18 | 1.24 | 48.5 |
| Chenille | 20 | 1.07 | 45.5 |
| Chenille | 22 | 0.91 | 40.0 |
| Chenille | 24 | 0.76 | 37.0 |
| Embroidery | 3 | 0.99 | 44.5 |
| Embroidery | 4 | 0.91 | 42.9 |
| Embroidery | 5 | 0.84 | 41.3 |
| Embroidery | 6 | 0.76 | 39.7 |
| Embroidery | 7 | 0.69 | 38.1 |
| Embroidery | 8 | 0.61 | 36.5 |
| Embroidery | 9 | 0.53 | 34.9 |
| Milliner | 3 | 0.99 | 55.6 |
| Milliner | 5 | 0.84 | 50.8 |
| Milliner | 7 | 0.69 | 46.8 |
| Milliner | 9 | 0.53 | 42.9 |
| Quilting needle | 8 | 0.61 | 28.6 |
| Quilting needle | 9 | 0.56 | 27.3 |
| Quilting needle | 10 | 0.56 | 25.8 |
| Quilting needle | 12 | 0.51 | 22.7 |
| Quilting needle | 13 | 0.51 | 22.0 |
| Quilting needle between | 8 | 0.61 | 28.6 |
| Quilting needle between | 9 | 0.53 | 27.0 |
| Quilting needle between | 10 | 0.46 | 25.4 |
| Quilting needle between | 12 | 0.53 | 24.4 |
| Tapestry | 18 | 1.24 | 48.5 |
| Tapestry | 20 | 1.07 | 45.5 |
| Tapestry | 22 | 0.91 | 40.0 |
| Tapestry | 24 | 0.76 | 37.0 |
| Yarn darners | 14 | 2.01 | 71.4 |
| Yarn darners | 15 | 1.81 | 69.9 |
| Yarn darners | 16 | 1.60 | 68.3 |
| Yarn darners | 17 | 1.40 | 66.7 |
| Yarn darners | 18 | 1.24 | 63.5 |
Needles in archaeology
A variety of archaeological finds illustrate sewing has been present for thousands of years. The RomansAncient Rome
Ancient Rome was a thriving civilization that grew on the Italian Peninsula as early as the 8th century BC. Located along the Mediterranean Sea and centered on the city of Rome, it expanded to one of the largest empires in the ancient world....
left elaborate traces of their sewing technology, especially thimble
Thimble
A thimble is a small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle in sewing.The earliest known thimble was Roman and was found at Pompeii. Made of bronze, its creation has been dated to the 1st century AD...
s and needles. Even earlier Stone Age
Stone Age
The Stone Age is a broad prehistoric period, lasting about 2.5 million years , during which humans and their predecessor species in the genus Homo, as well as the earlier partly contemporary genera Australopithecus and Paranthropus, widely used exclusively stone as their hard material in the...
finds, such as the excavations on the island of Öland
Öland
' is the second largest Swedish island and the smallest of the traditional provinces of Sweden. Öland has an area of 1,342 km² and is located in the Baltic Sea just off the coast of Småland. The island has 25,000 inhabitants, but during Swedish Midsummer it is visited by up to 500,000 people...
at Alby, Sweden, reveal objects such as bone
Bone
Bones are rigid organs that constitute part of the endoskeleton of vertebrates. They support, and protect the various organs of the body, produce red and white blood cells and store minerals. Bone tissue is a type of dense connective tissue...
needle cases dating to 6000 BC. Ivory needles were also found dated to 30,000 years ago at the Kostenki
Kostenki
Kostenki is a village located on western middle bank of Don River in Voronezh Oblast, Russia. It is known for high concentration of cultural remains of modern humans from beginning of Upper Paleolithic era....
site in Russia.
Native Americans
Indigenous peoples of the Americas
The indigenous peoples of the Americas are the pre-Columbian inhabitants of North and South America, their descendants and other ethnic groups who are identified with those peoples. Indigenous peoples are known in Canada as Aboriginal peoples, and in the United States as Native Americans...
were known to use sewing needles from natural sources. One such source, the agave
Agave
Agave is a genus of monocots. The plants are perennial, but each rosette flowers once and then dies ; they are commonly known as the century plant....
plant, provided both the needle and the "thread." The agave leaf would be soaked for an extended period of time, leaving a pulp, long, stringy fibers and a sharp tip connecting the ends of the fibers. The "needle" is essentially what was the tip end of the leaf. Once the fibers dried, the fibers and "needle" could then be used to sew together skins and other items used in a cloth-like manner.
See also
- Sewing machine needleSewing machine needleA sewing machine needle consists of:* shank - clamped by the sewing machine's needle holder* shoulder - where the thick shank tapers down to the shaft...
- ThimbleThimbleA thimble is a small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle in sewing.The earliest known thimble was Roman and was found at Pompeii. Made of bronze, its creation has been dated to the 1st century AD...
- Treen
- Needle threaderNeedle threaderA needle threader is a small device for helping put the thread through the eye of small needles. Still popukar today is the needle threader of Victorian design, consisting of a small tinned plate stamped with the Queen's head and with a diamond-shaped steel wire attached....