Grande Ronde Valley
Encyclopedia
The Grande Ronde Valley is a valley in Union County
in northeastern Oregon
, United States. It is surrounded by the Blue Mountains
, and is drained by the Grande Ronde River
. La Grande
is its largest community. The valley is 35 miles (56.3 km) long, north to south, from Pumpkin Ridge to Pyles Canyon, and 15 miles (24.1 km) wide, east to west, from Cove
to the Grande Ronde River's canyon. Its name, fittingly, means "great circle".
. The Columbia River Plateau was created by a series of basalt flood
eruptions. These happen when a long crack in the Earth's crust spews floods of lava
. The molten rock then hardens and creates layers of basalt
. The Grande Ronde Valley floor began to sink from this plateau at a rate of about .07-.18 millimeters per year about nine million years ago.
. Eagle Cap Wilderness
is to the southeast. The highest nearby mountains are Mount Fanny to the east, with an elevation of 7136 feet (2,175.1 m); Mount Harris to the northeast, elevation 5335 feet (1,626.1 m), and Mount Emily
to the northwest, elevation 6110 feet (1,862.3 m). Communities within the valley include Alicel
, Cove
, Imbler
, Island City
, La Grande
, Summerville
, and Union
. The Grande Ronde River flows through the valley; its tributaries include Catherine, Fir, Ladd, Little, Mill, Pyles, and Willow creeks.
and the surrounding area was a haven for many Native American
tribes. Many of these tribes, including the Nez Perce, Cayuse, Umatilla, Walla Walla, and Shoshone, would spend their summers in the bountiful Grande Ronde Valley. Here they would forage, hunt, fish, and bathe in hot springs. Tribes that may have been hostile toward each other would live together harmoniously in the "Valley of Peace".
passed through the valley in 1811, and it was a waypoint along the Oregon Trail
. Since the 1840s, settlers headed toward the Willamette Valley
would pass through it. Every traveler who left a record of passing through the area was left with a favorable impression. Early pioneers chose not to settle in the valley, perhaps because they were intent upon reaching the Willamette Valley
, it was too far from a supply base, or they feared the Native Americans in the area. The first permanent settlement in the Grande Ronde Valley was not established until 1861. The first permanent settler in the Grande Ronde Valley was Benjamin Brown, an Englishman who had originally settled in Michigan
. Not long after, the Leasey family and about 20 others settled there. Serving as a travelers inn, the settlement was originally named Brown's Fort, and then Browns Town or Brownsville. Since there was already a Brownsville in Linn County
, the name was changed to La Grande
.
northern parts of the valley, as the southern end was subject to flooding, swampy, and contained alkaline soil. In 1862, Conrad Miller settled the opposite side of the valley. This settlement grew into the city of Union
, the second largest community in the Grande Ronde Valley. Island City
, Cove
, and Summerville
were not far behind. Many factors contributed to the growth of the valley. Some of these were the continuing presence of emigrants from the Oregon Trail, and the discovery of gold mines
in the surrounding area, including at Baker in 1861 and the Powder River Mines in 1862.
Mormon
s were attracted to the valley after an 1889 business trip by David Eccles
, Charles W. Nibley
, and George Stoddard
, who set up businesses in the area. Mormons followed and settled in the valley after then, and remained a prominent force until the Nibley-Stoddard mills were purchased or closed between 1920 and 1931. The influence of the Mormons in the area was limited, as all profits were sent to Utah
, rather than staying with local businessmen.
In 1878, several La Grande residents spearheaded an effort to build a railroad from La Grande to the Columbia River
at Umatilla
. They organized a company, called the Columbia River and Blue Mountain Railroad Company, and sent teams to Umatilla to begin grading. In 1879, the whole enterprise was surrendered to Henry Villard
and his Oregon Railway and Navigation Company. The Oregon Railway and Navigation lines were to be joined to the Oregon Short Line and Union Pacific at Huntington
, causing the valley to no longer be connected by difficult wagon roads. As one pioneer woman in the area wrote, "No more big, heavily loaded freight wagons with their wheels buried to the hub in mud." Two routes were proposed to exit the valley eastward, one that would put the railroad close to Union, and one that would put it close to La Grande. Both towns wanted the railroad, so a competition developed with both towns trying to please the engineers sent to survey the routes. Eventually the La Grande route was chosen. The railroad was completed in 1884.
The Oregon Railway and Navigation Company (OR&N) built a spur line from La Grande to Elgin
. When the spur was completed, La Grande citizens paid $7,000 to OR&N.
The first logging railroads in the valley were built in 1907 for the Hilgard Lumber Company and Mecham Lumber Company, both owned by Charles W. Nibley
with partners J. F. Nibley and Merrill Nibley. These temporary lines were 4 to 7 mi (6.4 to 11.3 km) long.
Union County, Oregon
Union County is a county located in the U.S. state of Oregon. It is included in the 8 county definition of Eastern Oregon. The county is named for the town of Union, which is located within its boundaries; in 2010, the county population was 25,748. The county seat is La Grande.-History:Union County...
in northeastern Oregon
Oregon
Oregon is a state in the Pacific Northwest region of the United States. It is located on the Pacific coast, with Washington to the north, California to the south, Nevada on the southeast and Idaho to the east. The Columbia and Snake rivers delineate much of Oregon's northern and eastern...
, United States. It is surrounded by the Blue Mountains
Blue Mountains (Oregon)
The Blue Mountains are a mountain range in the western United States, located largely in northeastern Oregon and stretching into southeastern Washington...
, and is drained by the Grande Ronde River
Grande Ronde River
The Grande Ronde River is a tributary of the Snake River, long, in northeastern Oregon and southeastern Washington in the United States. It drains an area southeast of the Blue Mountains and northwest of the Wallowa Mountains, on the Columbia Plateau...
. La Grande
La Grande, Oregon
-Demographics:As of the census of 2000, there were 12,327 people, 5,124 households, and 2,982 families residing in the city. The population density was 2,833.5 people per square mile . There were 5,483 housing units at an average density of 1,260.3 per square mile...
is its largest community. The valley is 35 miles (56.3 km) long, north to south, from Pumpkin Ridge to Pyles Canyon, and 15 miles (24.1 km) wide, east to west, from Cove
Cove, Oregon
Cove is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 594 at the 2000 census.-History:Cove was platted in the 1870s along Ruckles Road, only the second road over the Blue Mountains.-Geography:...
to the Grande Ronde River's canyon. Its name, fittingly, means "great circle".
Geology
The Grande Ronde Valley is part of the Columbia River PlateauColumbia River Plateau
The Columbia Plateau is a geologic and geographic region that lies across parts of the U.S. states of Washington, Oregon, and Idaho. It is a wide flood basalt plateau between the Cascade Range and the Rocky Mountains, cut through by the Columbia River...
. The Columbia River Plateau was created by a series of basalt flood
Flood basalt
A flood basalt or trap basalt is the result of a giant volcanic eruption or series of eruptions that coats large stretches of land or the ocean floor with basalt lava. Flood basalts have occurred on continental scales in prehistory, creating great plateaus and mountain ranges...
eruptions. These happen when a long crack in the Earth's crust spews floods of lava
Lava
Lava refers both to molten rock expelled by a volcano during an eruption and the resulting rock after solidification and cooling. This molten rock is formed in the interior of some planets, including Earth, and some of their satellites. When first erupted from a volcanic vent, lava is a liquid at...
. The molten rock then hardens and creates layers of basalt
Basalt
Basalt is a common extrusive volcanic rock. It is usually grey to black and fine-grained due to rapid cooling of lava at the surface of a planet. It may be porphyritic containing larger crystals in a fine matrix, or vesicular, or frothy scoria. Unweathered basalt is black or grey...
. The Grande Ronde Valley floor began to sink from this plateau at a rate of about .07-.18 millimeters per year about nine million years ago.
Geography
The Grande Ronde Valley floor is at about 2700 feet (823 m) above sea level. Its horizon is dominated by the Blue MountainsBlue Mountains (Oregon)
The Blue Mountains are a mountain range in the western United States, located largely in northeastern Oregon and stretching into southeastern Washington...
. Eagle Cap Wilderness
Eagle Cap Wilderness
Eagle Cap Wilderness is a wilderness area located in the Wallowa Mountains of northeastern Oregon , within the Wallowa–Whitman National Forest. The Wilderness was established in 1940. In 1964, it was included in the National Wilderness Preservation System...
is to the southeast. The highest nearby mountains are Mount Fanny to the east, with an elevation of 7136 feet (2,175.1 m); Mount Harris to the northeast, elevation 5335 feet (1,626.1 m), and Mount Emily
Mount Emily (Union County, Oregon)
Mount Emily is a mountain in the Blue Mountains of eastern Oregon in the United States. It is located in western Union County.Mount Emily is visible from much of the Grande Ronde Valley. Its southern edge is a landmark in, and symbol of, the city of La Grande....
to the northwest, elevation 6110 feet (1,862.3 m). Communities within the valley include Alicel
Alicel, Oregon
Alicel is an unincorporated community in the Grande Ronde Valley of Union County, Oregon, United States. It is northeast of La Grande on Oregon Route 82. It was a station of the Union Pacific Railroad and was named for Alice Ladd, wife of local resident Charles Ladd...
, Cove
Cove, Oregon
Cove is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 594 at the 2000 census.-History:Cove was platted in the 1870s along Ruckles Road, only the second road over the Blue Mountains.-Geography:...
, Imbler
Imbler, Oregon
Imbler is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 284 at the 2000 census. As of July 2006, the population was estimated at 295.-History:Imbler was platted in 1891...
, Island City
Island City, Oregon
Island City is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. Its name originally came about due to it being located on an island between the Grande Ronde River and a nearby slough. However, the slough was later diverted, removing the city's island status...
, La Grande
La Grande, Oregon
-Demographics:As of the census of 2000, there were 12,327 people, 5,124 households, and 2,982 families residing in the city. The population density was 2,833.5 people per square mile . There were 5,483 housing units at an average density of 1,260.3 per square mile...
, Summerville
Summerville, Oregon
Summerville is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 117 at the 2000 census.-History:Summerville was platted on September 20, 1873 along Ruckles Road by William H. Patten. Patten had a freight depot along Ruckles Road, only the second road over the Blue Mountains, which...
, and Union
Union, Oregon
Union is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 1,926 at the 2000 census.- History :Union was platted on November 11, 1864 along the Oregon Trail. The name references the Union states, or Northern States, of the American Civil War....
. The Grande Ronde River flows through the valley; its tributaries include Catherine, Fir, Ladd, Little, Mill, Pyles, and Willow creeks.
Native Americans
Eastern OregonEastern Oregon
Eastern Oregon is the eastern part of the U.S. state of Oregon. It is not an officially recognized geographic entity, thus the boundaries of the region vary according to context. It is sometimes understood to include only the eight easternmost counties in the state; in other contexts, it includes...
and the surrounding area was a haven for many Native American
Native Americans in the United States
Native Americans in the United States are the indigenous peoples in North America within the boundaries of the present-day continental United States, parts of Alaska, and the island state of Hawaii. They are composed of numerous, distinct tribes, states, and ethnic groups, many of which survive as...
tribes. Many of these tribes, including the Nez Perce, Cayuse, Umatilla, Walla Walla, and Shoshone, would spend their summers in the bountiful Grande Ronde Valley. Here they would forage, hunt, fish, and bathe in hot springs. Tribes that may have been hostile toward each other would live together harmoniously in the "Valley of Peace".
First contact and settlement
The Astor ExpeditionAstor Expedition
The Astor Expedition of 1810-1812 was the next overland expedition from St. Louis, Missouri to the mouth of the Columbia River after the Corps of Discovery, led by Lewis and Clark.-History:...
passed through the valley in 1811, and it was a waypoint along the Oregon Trail
Oregon Trail
The Oregon Trail is a historic east-west wagon route that connected the Missouri River to valleys in Oregon and locations in between.After 1840 steam-powered riverboats and steamboats traversing up and down the Ohio, Mississippi and Missouri rivers sped settlement and development in the flat...
. Since the 1840s, settlers headed toward the Willamette Valley
Willamette Valley
The Willamette Valley is the most populated region in the state of Oregon of the United States. Located in the state's northwest, the region is surrounded by tall mountain ranges to the east, west and south and the valley's floor is broad, flat and fertile because of Ice Age conditions...
would pass through it. Every traveler who left a record of passing through the area was left with a favorable impression. Early pioneers chose not to settle in the valley, perhaps because they were intent upon reaching the Willamette Valley
Willamette Valley
The Willamette Valley is the most populated region in the state of Oregon of the United States. Located in the state's northwest, the region is surrounded by tall mountain ranges to the east, west and south and the valley's floor is broad, flat and fertile because of Ice Age conditions...
, it was too far from a supply base, or they feared the Native Americans in the area. The first permanent settlement in the Grande Ronde Valley was not established until 1861. The first permanent settler in the Grande Ronde Valley was Benjamin Brown, an Englishman who had originally settled in Michigan
Michigan
Michigan is a U.S. state located in the Great Lakes Region of the United States of America. The name Michigan is the French form of the Ojibwa word mishigamaa, meaning "large water" or "large lake"....
. Not long after, the Leasey family and about 20 others settled there. Serving as a travelers inn, the settlement was originally named Brown's Fort, and then Browns Town or Brownsville. Since there was already a Brownsville in Linn County
Linn County, Oregon
Linn County is a county located in the U.S. state of Oregon. It is named in honor of Lewis F. Linn, a U.S. Senator from Missouri who advocated the American occupation of the Oregon Country. By the 2010 US census the population of Linn county was 116,672 showing a 13.2% growth since the 2000 census...
, the name was changed to La Grande
La Grande, Oregon
-Demographics:As of the census of 2000, there were 12,327 people, 5,124 households, and 2,982 families residing in the city. The population density was 2,833.5 people per square mile . There were 5,483 housing units at an average density of 1,260.3 per square mile...
.
Growth
Early settlements were in the more arableArable land
In geography and agriculture, arable land is land that can be used for growing crops. It includes all land under temporary crops , temporary meadows for mowing or pasture, land under market and kitchen gardens and land temporarily fallow...
northern parts of the valley, as the southern end was subject to flooding, swampy, and contained alkaline soil. In 1862, Conrad Miller settled the opposite side of the valley. This settlement grew into the city of Union
Union, Oregon
Union is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 1,926 at the 2000 census.- History :Union was platted on November 11, 1864 along the Oregon Trail. The name references the Union states, or Northern States, of the American Civil War....
, the second largest community in the Grande Ronde Valley. Island City
Island City, Oregon
Island City is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. Its name originally came about due to it being located on an island between the Grande Ronde River and a nearby slough. However, the slough was later diverted, removing the city's island status...
, Cove
Cove, Oregon
Cove is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 594 at the 2000 census.-History:Cove was platted in the 1870s along Ruckles Road, only the second road over the Blue Mountains.-Geography:...
, and Summerville
Summerville, Oregon
Summerville is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 117 at the 2000 census.-History:Summerville was platted on September 20, 1873 along Ruckles Road by William H. Patten. Patten had a freight depot along Ruckles Road, only the second road over the Blue Mountains, which...
were not far behind. Many factors contributed to the growth of the valley. Some of these were the continuing presence of emigrants from the Oregon Trail, and the discovery of gold mines
Gold mining
Gold mining is the removal of gold from the ground. There are several techniques and processes by which gold may be extracted from the earth.-History:...
in the surrounding area, including at Baker in 1861 and the Powder River Mines in 1862.
Mormon
The term Mormon most commonly denotes an adherent, practitioner, follower, or constituent of Mormonism, which is the largest branch of the Latter Day Saint movement in restorationist Christianity...
s were attracted to the valley after an 1889 business trip by David Eccles
David Eccles (businessman)
David Eccles was an American businessman and industrialist who founded many businesses throughout the western United States and became Utah's first multimillionaire.-Biography:...
, Charles W. Nibley
Charles W. Nibley
Charles Wilson Nibley was the fifth presiding bishop of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints between 1907 and 1925 and a member of the church's First Presidency from 1925 until his death....
, and George Stoddard
George Stoddard
George Stoddard was a real estate financier who pioneered the use of the sale-and-leaseback transaction.Stoddard was born in Perry, in Union County, Oregon, in 1917. His family moved east in 1928, living in Eastchester, New York...
, who set up businesses in the area. Mormons followed and settled in the valley after then, and remained a prominent force until the Nibley-Stoddard mills were purchased or closed between 1920 and 1931. The influence of the Mormons in the area was limited, as all profits were sent to Utah
Utah
Utah is a state in the Western United States. It was the 45th state to join the Union, on January 4, 1896. Approximately 80% of Utah's 2,763,885 people live along the Wasatch Front, centering on Salt Lake City. This leaves vast expanses of the state nearly uninhabited, making the population the...
, rather than staying with local businessmen.
Railroad
Many railroad efforts were begun, including the Grande Ronde and Walla Walla Railroad Company in 1872 by H. J. Mecham and James Hendershott, as well as an effort to connect to Dorsey S. Baker's Walla Walla and Columbia River Railroad. The Grande Ronde and Walla Walla route was to be 80 miles (128.7 km) long but was never completed, and the connection from Walla Walla to the Columbia River covered 33 miles (53.1 km) and took six years to complete.In 1878, several La Grande residents spearheaded an effort to build a railroad from La Grande to the Columbia River
Columbia River
The Columbia River is the largest river in the Pacific Northwest region of North America. The river rises in the Rocky Mountains of British Columbia, Canada, flows northwest and then south into the U.S. state of Washington, then turns west to form most of the border between Washington and the state...
at Umatilla
Umatilla, Oregon
Umatilla is a city in Umatilla County, Oregon, United States. It is named for the Umatilla River, which enters the Columbia River on the side of the city. The river is named after the Umatilla Tribe. The city is located on the south side of the Columbia River, and is located on U.S...
. They organized a company, called the Columbia River and Blue Mountain Railroad Company, and sent teams to Umatilla to begin grading. In 1879, the whole enterprise was surrendered to Henry Villard
Henry Villard
Henry Villard was an American journalist and financier who was an early president of the Northern Pacific Railway....
and his Oregon Railway and Navigation Company. The Oregon Railway and Navigation lines were to be joined to the Oregon Short Line and Union Pacific at Huntington
Huntington, Oregon
Huntington is a city in Baker County, on the eastern border of Oregon, United States. It is located on the Snake River and along Interstate 84 and U.S. Route 30. The population was 515 at the 2000 census.- History:...
, causing the valley to no longer be connected by difficult wagon roads. As one pioneer woman in the area wrote, "No more big, heavily loaded freight wagons with their wheels buried to the hub in mud." Two routes were proposed to exit the valley eastward, one that would put the railroad close to Union, and one that would put it close to La Grande. Both towns wanted the railroad, so a competition developed with both towns trying to please the engineers sent to survey the routes. Eventually the La Grande route was chosen. The railroad was completed in 1884.
The Oregon Railway and Navigation Company (OR&N) built a spur line from La Grande to Elgin
Elgin, Oregon
Elgin is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 1,654 at the 2000 census. The 2007 estimate is 1,685 residents. The community is named after the Lady Elgin, a ship lost on Lake Michigan....
. When the spur was completed, La Grande citizens paid $7,000 to OR&N.
The first logging railroads in the valley were built in 1907 for the Hilgard Lumber Company and Mecham Lumber Company, both owned by Charles W. Nibley
Charles W. Nibley
Charles Wilson Nibley was the fifth presiding bishop of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints between 1907 and 1925 and a member of the church's First Presidency from 1925 until his death....
with partners J. F. Nibley and Merrill Nibley. These temporary lines were 4 to 7 mi (6.4 to 11.3 km) long.
Transportation
There are five main ways to get in and out of the Grande Ronde Valley.- Old Oregon Trail Highway (North) (Interstate 84Interstate 84 (west)Interstate 84 is an Interstate Highway in the Western United States that runs from Portland, Oregon, to a junction with Interstate 80 near Echo, Utah. The highway originally served as a fork of I-80 to serve the Pacific Northwest, and was originally numbered Interstate 80N.The highway serves and...
): This highway leaves on the west side of the valley through the Grande Ronde River canyon. It goes through the Blue MountainsBlue Mountains (Oregon)The Blue Mountains are a mountain range in the western United States, located largely in northeastern Oregon and stretching into southeastern Washington...
toward PendletonPendleton, OregonPendleton is a city in Umatilla County, Oregon, United States. Pendleton was named in 1868 by the county commissioners for George H. Pendleton, Democratic candidate for Vice-President in the 1864 presidential campaign. The population was 16,612 at the 2010 census...
. - Old Oregon Trail Highway (South) (Interstate 84): Going this direction, the highway comes back out on the south end of the valley through Ladd Canyon. It passes into Powder Valley and continues toward Baker CityBaker City, OregonBaker City is a city in and the county seat of Baker County, Oregon, United States. It was named after Edward D. Baker. The population was 9,828 at the 2010 census.-History:...
. - Wallowa Lake Highway (Oregon Route 82): This highway exits on the other side of the Grande Ronde River canyon in the north and enters Indian Valley. It then continues and ends at Wallowa LakeWallowa LakeWallowa Lake is a ribbon lake one mile south of Joseph, Oregon, United States. Impounded by high moraines, it was formed by a series of Pleistocene glaciers. On the south end of the lake is a small community made up of vacation homes, lodging, restaurants, as well as other small businesses....
. - La Grande-Baker Highway (Oregon Route 237Oregon Route 237Oregon Route 237 is an Oregon state highway running from OR 82 in Island City to Interstate 84 and U.S. Route 30 in North Powder. OR 237 is composed of the Cove Highway No. 342 and part of the La Grande-Baker Highway No. 66...
): This highway exits the valley through Pyles Canyon. Past North PowderNorth Powder, OregonNorth Powder is a city in Union County, Oregon, United States. The population was 489 at the 2000 census.-History:North Powder was platted in 1885 or 1886 along the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company rail line, having been a stage stop before then....
and Interstate 84, it turns into U.S. Route 30 and continues to Baker City. - Medical Springs Highway (Oregon Route 203Oregon Route 203Oregon Route 203 is an Oregon state highway running from Interstate 84 near La Grande to I-84 near Baker City. OR 203 is composed of part of the La Grande-Baker Highway No. 66 and the Medical Springs Highway No. 340. It is a combined long and runs north–south.- Route description :OR 203...
): This highway leaves the valley through the canyon of Catherine Creek. It travels to Medical SpringsMedical Springs, OregonMedical Springs is an unincorporated community in Union County, Oregon, United States. It is located near the southern extremity of Union County on Oregon Route 203, just outside Wallowa-Whitman National Forest. It is twenty miles southeast of Union and twenty-four miles northeast of Baker City...
, and then ends on Interstate 84 near Baker City.