Mount Arapiles
Encyclopedia
Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises 369 metres above the Wimmera
plains in western Victoria
, Australia
. It is approximately 10 km from Natimuk, Victoria
and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
. Arapiles is a very popular destination for rock climbers
due to the quantity and quality of climbs. It is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia along with the nearby Grampians
. The aboriginal name for Arapiles is Djurite.
The Djurid Balug aboriginal
clan inhabited the nearby area for thousands of years prior to the European colonisation of Australia. They used the mountain's hard sandstone for making various stone tools, and found shelter in its many gullies and small caves. Following European settlement in the mid 1840s, the Djurid Balud were displaced from the area, leading to the breaking up of the clan. The loss of the resources that the mountain provided, the ravages of European disease, and armed clashes with the settlers were all contributing factors. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Balud had been relocated to mission stations. Some of their descendants still live in the area and there are also a number of archaeological sites nearby. Indeed, a survey of Mount Arapiles in 1992 located no less than 42 Aboriginal archaeological sites, including "quarries" for hard stone for implements, scarred trees and rock art sites.
The European colonisation of Australia also brought with it many explorers to chart the new lands. The first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by its European discoverer, Major Thomas Mitchell. He named the landmark after the Arapiles hills near Salamanca
, Spain
, where the Battle of Salamanca
took place, in which Mitchell had seen action.
An extract from Mitchell's diary on 22 July reads:
There is a plaque commemorating his contributions to Arapiles on the aptly named "Plaque Rock", which is close to the current campgrounds.
, a metamorphic rock
that was originally sandstone
. Tectonic compression subjected the rock to intense heating and pressure, fusing the original quartz sand grains and quartz silica cement fused into one mineral. There is a distinct red/orange tinge that is due to trace amounts of iron oxide and various other impurities.
There are many kangaroos inhabiting the bush around Arapiles. In order to preserve their habitat, many intermediate tracks have been closed to allow regrowth of the foliage. Now only the main tracks are used, especially close to the campgrounds.
The Peregrine Falcon
, found worldwide, can often be seen around Mount Arapiles. It is one of the swiftest and deadliest birds of prey in the world, but has suffered heavily from the effects of insecticides. As a result, it is considered threatened in Victoria. Like all other plants and animals in the park, the Peregrine Falcon is fully protected. Occasionally, a pair of falcons will nest at Arapiles, and climbers usually notify the park ranger (and each other) should they be close to climbing areas.
Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises 369 metres above the Wimmera
plains in western Victoria
, Australia
. It is approximately 10 km from Natimuk, Victoria
and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
. Arapiles is a very popular destination for rock climbers
due to the quantity and quality of climbs. It is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia along with the nearby Grampians
. The aboriginal name for Arapiles is Djurite.
The Djurid Balug aboriginal
clan inhabited the nearby area for thousands of years prior to the European colonisation of Australia. They used the mountain's hard sandstone for making various stone tools, and found shelter in its many gullies and small caves. Following European settlement in the mid 1840s, the Djurid Balud were displaced from the area, leading to the breaking up of the clan. The loss of the resources that the mountain provided, the ravages of European disease, and armed clashes with the settlers were all contributing factors. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Balud had been relocated to mission stations. Some of their descendants still live in the area and there are also a number of archaeological sites nearby. Indeed, a survey of Mount Arapiles in 1992 located no less than 42 Aboriginal archaeological sites, including "quarries" for hard stone for implements, scarred trees and rock art sites.
The European colonisation of Australia also brought with it many explorers to chart the new lands. The first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by its European discoverer, Major Thomas Mitchell. He named the landmark after the Arapiles hills near Salamanca
, Spain
, where the Battle of Salamanca
took place, in which Mitchell had seen action.
An extract from Mitchell's diary on 22 July reads:
There is a plaque commemorating his contributions to Arapiles on the aptly named "Plaque Rock", which is close to the current campgrounds.
, a metamorphic rock
that was originally sandstone
. Tectonic compression subjected the rock to intense heating and pressure, fusing the original quartz sand grains and quartz silica cement fused into one mineral. There is a distinct red/orange tinge that is due to trace amounts of iron oxide and various other impurities.
There are many kangaroos inhabiting the bush around Arapiles. In order to preserve their habitat, many intermediate tracks have been closed to allow regrowth of the foliage. Now only the main tracks are used, especially close to the campgrounds.
The Peregrine Falcon
, found worldwide, can often be seen around Mount Arapiles. It is one of the swiftest and deadliest birds of prey in the world, but has suffered heavily from the effects of insecticides. As a result, it is considered threatened in Victoria. Like all other plants and animals in the park, the Peregrine Falcon is fully protected. Occasionally, a pair of falcons will nest at Arapiles, and climbers usually notify the park ranger (and each other) should they be close to climbing areas.
Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises 369 metres above the Wimmera
plains in western Victoria
, Australia
. It is approximately 10 km from Natimuk, Victoria
and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
. Arapiles is a very popular destination for rock climbers
due to the quantity and quality of climbs. It is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia along with the nearby Grampians
. The aboriginal name for Arapiles is Djurite.
The Djurid Balug aboriginal
clan inhabited the nearby area for thousands of years prior to the European colonisation of Australia. They used the mountain's hard sandstone for making various stone tools, and found shelter in its many gullies and small caves. Following European settlement in the mid 1840s, the Djurid Balud were displaced from the area, leading to the breaking up of the clan. The loss of the resources that the mountain provided, the ravages of European disease, and armed clashes with the settlers were all contributing factors. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Balud had been relocated to mission stations. Some of their descendants still live in the area and there are also a number of archaeological sites nearby. Indeed, a survey of Mount Arapiles in 1992 located no less than 42 Aboriginal archaeological sites, including "quarries" for hard stone for implements, scarred trees and rock art sites.
The European colonisation of Australia also brought with it many explorers to chart the new lands. The first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by its European discoverer, Major Thomas Mitchell. He named the landmark after the Arapiles hills near Salamanca
, Spain
, where the Battle of Salamanca
took place, in which Mitchell had seen action.
An extract from Mitchell's diary on 22 July reads:
There is a plaque commemorating his contributions to Arapiles on the aptly named "Plaque Rock", which is close to the current campgrounds.
, a metamorphic rock
that was originally sandstone
. Tectonic compression subjected the rock to intense heating and pressure, fusing the original quartz sand grains and quartz silica cement fused into one mineral. There is a distinct red/orange tinge that is due to trace amounts of iron oxide and various other impurities.
There are many kangaroos inhabiting the bush around Arapiles. In order to preserve their habitat, many intermediate tracks have been closed to allow regrowth of the foliage. Now only the main tracks are used, especially close to the campgrounds.
The Peregrine Falcon
, found worldwide, can often be seen around Mount Arapiles. It is one of the swiftest and deadliest birds of prey in the world, but has suffered heavily from the effects of insecticides. As a result, it is considered threatened in Victoria. Like all other plants and animals in the park, the Peregrine Falcon is fully protected. Occasionally, a pair of falcons will nest at Arapiles, and climbers usually notify the park ranger (and each other) should they be close to climbing areas.
The park is run by the state government funded Parks Victoria
and is serviced by a toilet block, rain water tank and dish-washing facilities. There is also bore water available, though Parks Victoria advises campers to bring their own as water may not always be available, especially during the harsh, dry summers. The campsite is essentially permanently occupied by climbers, who are subjected to a fee of $2 per night (payable by an honesty system). The fees help in the maintaining of the park.
There are a number of satellite car parks around the mountain that allow for easier access to a number of areas that some might consider to be a considerable walking distance. Such car parks exist at Bushranger Bluff, Declaration Crag, and nearby Mitre Rock. There is also room for parking along the northern access road to the park near "The Pharos" and the "Watchtower Faces" climbing areas. There are two car parks in the summit area, which are used by tourists and climbers alike. The summit car parks are especially useful when accessing the northern climbing areas, provided safer access routes from above.
There is a picnic shelter for day visitors, as well as a public telephone, and an information board. The board briefly documents the history of the area with history, provides information on the activities available in the area, and gives advice on the local flora, fauna. A Telstra
repeater tower provides mobile phone
coverage, though one must walk a few hundred metres down from the campground to the road for adequate reception.
), most ascentionists choose to free climb one of the thousands of vertical routes on the mountain. Since the advent of modern rock climbing, thousands of routes have been recorded.
Arapiles was first considered for climbing in a recreational manner in September 1963, when Bob and Steve Craddock travelled to Mitre Rock after seeing it in a tourist guide, and saw that their destination was dwarfed by Mount Arapiles. It was a number of weeks and visits before climbing was actually attempted at Arapiles, with the first climbs being recorded in November 1963 on what is now called "The Pinnacle Face". The pioneering group, consisting of the Craddocks, Doug Angus, Peter Jackson, and Greg Lovejoy split into two parties, with each party claiming a route on the same day. Many more climbs were put up in the following days and weeks, including the classic climb Tiptoe Ridge (5), and in 1964 Steve Craddock and his father Bob produced the first Arapiles climbing guidebook on a school duplicating machine (featuring 15 routes).
March 1965 saw the establishment of two significant climbs: The Bard (12) and Watchtower Crack (16). These climbs were done on the same day and are still regarded as classic climbs, often seeing numerous ascents per day. Activity steadily increased at Arapiles and in August 1966, Mike Stone and Ian Speedie released the second guidebook, Mt Arapiles. It was the first hardcover guide in Australia and featured 108 climbs. The rest of the 1960s saw many more new routes put up of increasing difficulty, with many including numerous aid points
. The focus was on "getting up the climb... and staying alive", whether free climbing
or not.
The early 70s saw a lull in activity at Arapiles as attention shifted to the Grampians
and Mount Buffalo. Interest in Arapiles resurfaced in late 1973 with many imposing lines being climbed with a few aids. These routes brought a sense of accomplishment to the climbing community as new grades were continually being created. In 1975, American visitor "Hot" Henry Barber arrived and began freeing these routes with minimal protection. The 21-year-old made a significant impact at Arapiles, and his visit was a pivotal point in Australian climbing, as climbers worked to support the legacy of Barber by freeing their new lines instead of being content to leave in aid points.
Word of Barber’s achievements spread and attracted a number of new young climbers to Arapiles. This group was later given the name "The New Wave" and throughout the rest of the 70s and early 80s they were responsible for scores of routes in the grade 20–25 range. The likes of Kim Carrigan
, Mike Law and Mark Moorhead helped introduce a number of 26+ climbs, though the latter two did not often grade their climbs accurately (choosing to 'undergrade' them instead). This purposeful undergrading is known as "sandbagging" and is still common in Australian climbing (some would call it tradition), though not as much as it once was.
German
climber Wolfgang Güllich
's ascent of Punks in the Gym in April 1985 was major achievement. The route blasts up the middle of a blank, attractive orange wall and gave Arapiles (and Australia) international exposure. At the time it was graded 32 and was the hardest climb in the world, setting a new benchmark for difficulty. Following Güllich's triumph, a number of routes of similar difficulty have been put up, though none take the "easiest way up" such an impressive feature. The fact that 'Punks' is chipped rarely makes it into most histories. In the early 90's a climber who was unable to do the climb added a glue hold which remains to this day.
Arapiles is still a popular climbing destination, with some visitors staying for months at a time. The warm weather, accessibility, quantity and quality of climbs have helped to maintain the popularity of Arapiles with locals, Australians and international travellers alike.
area – where climbers are expected to place their own protection, and remove it after climbing. The vast majority of climbs are therefore done using removable protection
such as nuts
, cams
and RP's.
Contrary to popular belief, Arapiles also has quite a bit of sport climbing
. Indeed many of the most interesting sport routes in the country are to be found tucked away in a cool gully or a beautiful orange face. However, there are not many sport routes easier than 23. Popular bolted routes
can be found at the following areas: Dec Crag, Flight Wall and surrounds, Skyline Walls, The Bluffs, Strolling Wall, Castle Crag, The Pharos, Yesterday Gully, Doggers Gully, Poosticks Wall.
Many routes at Araps. have lower-offs, so they can be approached from above or via an easier route. There is a strong tradition dating to the 80's of bringing the route down to your level, and it is now commonplace to rap in and pre-place gear. There are many routes with a mixture of fixed and natural gear for which this approach is suitable.
Chipping the rock to 'improve' holds is regarded as vandalism and is theoretically not tolerated. However,the many exceptions to this stance include routes such as: Steps Ahead, London Calling, 'Sean's route in The Bluffs',Ethiopia, Punks, Lord of the Rings, Wackford direct,Pet Abuse, Slopin' Sleazin' and Cecil B de Mille.
The following is a list of the more notable climbing areas at Arapiles, including examples of famous climbs.
areas sprinkled around Arapiles that cater for all abilities. Two areas that are close to camp are the Krondorf Area and the Golden Streak Area. They are often populated in the late afternoon and early evening after the day's climbing has been done.
Wimmera
The Wimmera is a region in the west of the Australian state of Victoria.It covers the dryland farming area south of the range of Mallee scrub, east of the South Australia border and north of the Great Dividing Range...
plains in western Victoria
Victoria (Australia)
Victoria is the second most populous state in Australia. Geographically the smallest mainland state, Victoria is bordered by New South Wales, South Australia, and Tasmania on Boundary Islet to the north, west and south respectively....
, Australia
Australia
Australia , officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country in the Southern Hemisphere comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It is the world's sixth-largest country by total area...
. It is approximately 10 km from Natimuk, Victoria
Natimuk, Victoria
Natimuk is a town in Western Victoria, Australia. It is located about 300km northwest of Melbourne. A further 10km west of Natimuk is one of Australia's best climbing areas, Mount Arapiles. At the 2006 census, Natimuk had a population of 449.-History:...
and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
The Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park is a state park in the Wimmera plains of western Victoria, Australia. It encompasses Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock, and the Tooan block. The park covers an area of 50.6 km² and is valuable for nature conservation, with approximately 14% of the State's flora species...
. Arapiles is a very popular destination for rock climbers
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
due to the quantity and quality of climbs. It is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia along with the nearby Grampians
Grampians National Park
The Grampians National Park is a national park in Victoria, Australia, 235 kilometres west of Melbourne. The Park was listed on the Australian National Heritage List on 15 December 2006 for its outstanding natural beauty and being one of the richest indigenous rock art sites in south-eastern...
. The aboriginal name for Arapiles is Djurite.
Early history
Indigenous Australians
Indigenous Australians are the original inhabitants of the Australian continent and nearby islands. The Aboriginal Indigenous Australians migrated from the Indian continent around 75,000 to 100,000 years ago....
clan inhabited the nearby area for thousands of years prior to the European colonisation of Australia. They used the mountain's hard sandstone for making various stone tools, and found shelter in its many gullies and small caves. Following European settlement in the mid 1840s, the Djurid Balud were displaced from the area, leading to the breaking up of the clan. The loss of the resources that the mountain provided, the ravages of European disease, and armed clashes with the settlers were all contributing factors. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Balud had been relocated to mission stations. Some of their descendants still live in the area and there are also a number of archaeological sites nearby. Indeed, a survey of Mount Arapiles in 1992 located no less than 42 Aboriginal archaeological sites, including "quarries" for hard stone for implements, scarred trees and rock art sites.
The European colonisation of Australia also brought with it many explorers to chart the new lands. The first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by its European discoverer, Major Thomas Mitchell. He named the landmark after the Arapiles hills near Salamanca
Salamanca
Salamanca is a city in western Spain, in the community of Castile and León. Because it is known for its beautiful buildings and urban environment, the Old City was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988. It is the most important university city in Spain and is known for its contributions to...
, Spain
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
, where the Battle of Salamanca
Battle of Salamanca
The Battle of Salamanca saw Anglo-Portuguese and Spanish armies under the Duke of Wellington defeat Marshal Auguste Marmont's French forces among the hills around Arapiles south of Salamanca, Spain on July 22, 1812 during the Peninsular War....
took place, in which Mitchell had seen action.
An extract from Mitchell's diary on 22 July reads:
"This certainly was a remarkable portion of the earth's surface, and rather resembled that of the moon as seen through a telecope."
There is a plaque commemorating his contributions to Arapiles on the aptly named "Plaque Rock", which is close to the current campgrounds.
Geology
Mount Arapiles is primarily composed of quartziteQuartzite
Quartzite is a hard metamorphic rock which was originally sandstone. Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tectonic compression within orogenic belts. Pure quartzite is usually white to gray, though quartzites often occur in various shades of pink...
, a metamorphic rock
Metamorphic rock
Metamorphic rock is the transformation of an existing rock type, the protolith, in a process called metamorphism, which means "change in form". The protolith is subjected to heat and pressure causing profound physical and/or chemical change...
that was originally sandstone
Sandstone
Sandstone is a sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized minerals or rock grains.Most sandstone is composed of quartz and/or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the Earth's crust. Like sand, sandstone may be any colour, but the most common colours are tan, brown, yellow,...
. Tectonic compression subjected the rock to intense heating and pressure, fusing the original quartz sand grains and quartz silica cement fused into one mineral. There is a distinct red/orange tinge that is due to trace amounts of iron oxide and various other impurities.
Flora
Arapiles and its immediate vicinity are home to approximately 14% of the State's flora species, with wildflowers being particularly prominent in spring.Fauna
The Shingleback lizard (also known as the Stumpytail) is commonly seen in the Park during spring, summer and autumn. This slow moving and sleepy reptile feeds on insects, flowers and fruit and is quite harmless to humans.There are many kangaroos inhabiting the bush around Arapiles. In order to preserve their habitat, many intermediate tracks have been closed to allow regrowth of the foliage. Now only the main tracks are used, especially close to the campgrounds.
The Peregrine Falcon
Peregrine Falcon
The Peregrine Falcon , also known as the Peregrine, and historically as the Duck Hawk in North America, is a widespread bird of prey in the family Falconidae. A large, crow-sized falcon, it has a blue-gray back, barred white underparts, and a black head and "moustache"...
, found worldwide, can often be seen around Mount Arapiles. It is one of the swiftest and deadliest birds of prey in the world, but has suffered heavily from the effects of insecticides. As a result, it is considered threatened in Victoria. Like all other plants and animals in the park, the Peregrine Falcon is fully protected. Occasionally, a pair of falcons will nest at Arapiles, and climbers usually notify the park ranger (and each other) should they be close to climbing areas.
Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises 369 metres above the Wimmera
Wimmera
The Wimmera is a region in the west of the Australian state of Victoria.It covers the dryland farming area south of the range of Mallee scrub, east of the South Australia border and north of the Great Dividing Range...
plains in western Victoria
Victoria (Australia)
Victoria is the second most populous state in Australia. Geographically the smallest mainland state, Victoria is bordered by New South Wales, South Australia, and Tasmania on Boundary Islet to the north, west and south respectively....
, Australia
Australia
Australia , officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country in the Southern Hemisphere comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It is the world's sixth-largest country by total area...
. It is approximately 10 km from Natimuk, Victoria
Natimuk, Victoria
Natimuk is a town in Western Victoria, Australia. It is located about 300km northwest of Melbourne. A further 10km west of Natimuk is one of Australia's best climbing areas, Mount Arapiles. At the 2006 census, Natimuk had a population of 449.-History:...
and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
The Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park is a state park in the Wimmera plains of western Victoria, Australia. It encompasses Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock, and the Tooan block. The park covers an area of 50.6 km² and is valuable for nature conservation, with approximately 14% of the State's flora species...
. Arapiles is a very popular destination for rock climbers
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
due to the quantity and quality of climbs. It is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia along with the nearby Grampians
Grampians National Park
The Grampians National Park is a national park in Victoria, Australia, 235 kilometres west of Melbourne. The Park was listed on the Australian National Heritage List on 15 December 2006 for its outstanding natural beauty and being one of the richest indigenous rock art sites in south-eastern...
. The aboriginal name for Arapiles is Djurite.
Early history
Indigenous Australians
Indigenous Australians are the original inhabitants of the Australian continent and nearby islands. The Aboriginal Indigenous Australians migrated from the Indian continent around 75,000 to 100,000 years ago....
clan inhabited the nearby area for thousands of years prior to the European colonisation of Australia. They used the mountain's hard sandstone for making various stone tools, and found shelter in its many gullies and small caves. Following European settlement in the mid 1840s, the Djurid Balud were displaced from the area, leading to the breaking up of the clan. The loss of the resources that the mountain provided, the ravages of European disease, and armed clashes with the settlers were all contributing factors. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Balud had been relocated to mission stations. Some of their descendants still live in the area and there are also a number of archaeological sites nearby. Indeed, a survey of Mount Arapiles in 1992 located no less than 42 Aboriginal archaeological sites, including "quarries" for hard stone for implements, scarred trees and rock art sites.
The European colonisation of Australia also brought with it many explorers to chart the new lands. The first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by its European discoverer, Major Thomas Mitchell. He named the landmark after the Arapiles hills near Salamanca
Salamanca
Salamanca is a city in western Spain, in the community of Castile and León. Because it is known for its beautiful buildings and urban environment, the Old City was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988. It is the most important university city in Spain and is known for its contributions to...
, Spain
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
, where the Battle of Salamanca
Battle of Salamanca
The Battle of Salamanca saw Anglo-Portuguese and Spanish armies under the Duke of Wellington defeat Marshal Auguste Marmont's French forces among the hills around Arapiles south of Salamanca, Spain on July 22, 1812 during the Peninsular War....
took place, in which Mitchell had seen action.
An extract from Mitchell's diary on 22 July reads:
"This certainly was a remarkable portion of the earth's surface, and rather resembled that of the moon as seen through a telecope."
There is a plaque commemorating his contributions to Arapiles on the aptly named "Plaque Rock", which is close to the current campgrounds.
Geology
Mount Arapiles is primarily composed of quartziteQuartzite
Quartzite is a hard metamorphic rock which was originally sandstone. Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tectonic compression within orogenic belts. Pure quartzite is usually white to gray, though quartzites often occur in various shades of pink...
, a metamorphic rock
Metamorphic rock
Metamorphic rock is the transformation of an existing rock type, the protolith, in a process called metamorphism, which means "change in form". The protolith is subjected to heat and pressure causing profound physical and/or chemical change...
that was originally sandstone
Sandstone
Sandstone is a sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized minerals or rock grains.Most sandstone is composed of quartz and/or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the Earth's crust. Like sand, sandstone may be any colour, but the most common colours are tan, brown, yellow,...
. Tectonic compression subjected the rock to intense heating and pressure, fusing the original quartz sand grains and quartz silica cement fused into one mineral. There is a distinct red/orange tinge that is due to trace amounts of iron oxide and various other impurities.
Flora
Arapiles and its immediate vicinity are home to approximately 14% of the State's flora species, with wildflowers being particularly prominent in spring.Fauna
The Shingleback lizard (also known as the Stumpytail) is commonly seen in the Park during spring, summer and autumn. This slow moving and sleepy reptile feeds on insects, flowers and fruit and is quite harmless to humans.There are many kangaroos inhabiting the bush around Arapiles. In order to preserve their habitat, many intermediate tracks have been closed to allow regrowth of the foliage. Now only the main tracks are used, especially close to the campgrounds.
The Peregrine Falcon
Peregrine Falcon
The Peregrine Falcon , also known as the Peregrine, and historically as the Duck Hawk in North America, is a widespread bird of prey in the family Falconidae. A large, crow-sized falcon, it has a blue-gray back, barred white underparts, and a black head and "moustache"...
, found worldwide, can often be seen around Mount Arapiles. It is one of the swiftest and deadliest birds of prey in the world, but has suffered heavily from the effects of insecticides. As a result, it is considered threatened in Victoria. Like all other plants and animals in the park, the Peregrine Falcon is fully protected. Occasionally, a pair of falcons will nest at Arapiles, and climbers usually notify the park ranger (and each other) should they be close to climbing areas.
Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises 369 metres above the Wimmera
Wimmera
The Wimmera is a region in the west of the Australian state of Victoria.It covers the dryland farming area south of the range of Mallee scrub, east of the South Australia border and north of the Great Dividing Range...
plains in western Victoria
Victoria (Australia)
Victoria is the second most populous state in Australia. Geographically the smallest mainland state, Victoria is bordered by New South Wales, South Australia, and Tasmania on Boundary Islet to the north, west and south respectively....
, Australia
Australia
Australia , officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country in the Southern Hemisphere comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It is the world's sixth-largest country by total area...
. It is approximately 10 km from Natimuk, Victoria
Natimuk, Victoria
Natimuk is a town in Western Victoria, Australia. It is located about 300km northwest of Melbourne. A further 10km west of Natimuk is one of Australia's best climbing areas, Mount Arapiles. At the 2006 census, Natimuk had a population of 449.-History:...
and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
The Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park is a state park in the Wimmera plains of western Victoria, Australia. It encompasses Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock, and the Tooan block. The park covers an area of 50.6 km² and is valuable for nature conservation, with approximately 14% of the State's flora species...
. Arapiles is a very popular destination for rock climbers
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
due to the quantity and quality of climbs. It is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia along with the nearby Grampians
Grampians National Park
The Grampians National Park is a national park in Victoria, Australia, 235 kilometres west of Melbourne. The Park was listed on the Australian National Heritage List on 15 December 2006 for its outstanding natural beauty and being one of the richest indigenous rock art sites in south-eastern...
. The aboriginal name for Arapiles is Djurite.
Early history
Indigenous Australians
Indigenous Australians are the original inhabitants of the Australian continent and nearby islands. The Aboriginal Indigenous Australians migrated from the Indian continent around 75,000 to 100,000 years ago....
clan inhabited the nearby area for thousands of years prior to the European colonisation of Australia. They used the mountain's hard sandstone for making various stone tools, and found shelter in its many gullies and small caves. Following European settlement in the mid 1840s, the Djurid Balud were displaced from the area, leading to the breaking up of the clan. The loss of the resources that the mountain provided, the ravages of European disease, and armed clashes with the settlers were all contributing factors. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Balud had been relocated to mission stations. Some of their descendants still live in the area and there are also a number of archaeological sites nearby. Indeed, a survey of Mount Arapiles in 1992 located no less than 42 Aboriginal archaeological sites, including "quarries" for hard stone for implements, scarred trees and rock art sites.
The European colonisation of Australia also brought with it many explorers to chart the new lands. The first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by its European discoverer, Major Thomas Mitchell. He named the landmark after the Arapiles hills near Salamanca
Salamanca
Salamanca is a city in western Spain, in the community of Castile and León. Because it is known for its beautiful buildings and urban environment, the Old City was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988. It is the most important university city in Spain and is known for its contributions to...
, Spain
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
, where the Battle of Salamanca
Battle of Salamanca
The Battle of Salamanca saw Anglo-Portuguese and Spanish armies under the Duke of Wellington defeat Marshal Auguste Marmont's French forces among the hills around Arapiles south of Salamanca, Spain on July 22, 1812 during the Peninsular War....
took place, in which Mitchell had seen action.
An extract from Mitchell's diary on 22 July reads:
"This certainly was a remarkable portion of the earth's surface, and rather resembled that of the moon as seen through a telecope."
There is a plaque commemorating his contributions to Arapiles on the aptly named "Plaque Rock", which is close to the current campgrounds.
Geology
Mount Arapiles is primarily composed of quartziteQuartzite
Quartzite is a hard metamorphic rock which was originally sandstone. Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tectonic compression within orogenic belts. Pure quartzite is usually white to gray, though quartzites often occur in various shades of pink...
, a metamorphic rock
Metamorphic rock
Metamorphic rock is the transformation of an existing rock type, the protolith, in a process called metamorphism, which means "change in form". The protolith is subjected to heat and pressure causing profound physical and/or chemical change...
that was originally sandstone
Sandstone
Sandstone is a sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized minerals or rock grains.Most sandstone is composed of quartz and/or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the Earth's crust. Like sand, sandstone may be any colour, but the most common colours are tan, brown, yellow,...
. Tectonic compression subjected the rock to intense heating and pressure, fusing the original quartz sand grains and quartz silica cement fused into one mineral. There is a distinct red/orange tinge that is due to trace amounts of iron oxide and various other impurities.
Flora
Arapiles and its immediate vicinity are home to approximately 14% of the State's flora species, with wildflowers being particularly prominent in spring.Fauna
The Shingleback lizard (also known as the Stumpytail) is commonly seen in the Park during spring, summer and autumn. This slow moving and sleepy reptile feeds on insects, flowers and fruit and is quite harmless to humans.There are many kangaroos inhabiting the bush around Arapiles. In order to preserve their habitat, many intermediate tracks have been closed to allow regrowth of the foliage. Now only the main tracks are used, especially close to the campgrounds.
The Peregrine Falcon
Peregrine Falcon
The Peregrine Falcon , also known as the Peregrine, and historically as the Duck Hawk in North America, is a widespread bird of prey in the family Falconidae. A large, crow-sized falcon, it has a blue-gray back, barred white underparts, and a black head and "moustache"...
, found worldwide, can often be seen around Mount Arapiles. It is one of the swiftest and deadliest birds of prey in the world, but has suffered heavily from the effects of insecticides. As a result, it is considered threatened in Victoria. Like all other plants and animals in the park, the Peregrine Falcon is fully protected. Occasionally, a pair of falcons will nest at Arapiles, and climbers usually notify the park ranger (and each other) should they be close to climbing areas.
Facilities
There are a number of camping grounds at Arapiles; the Centenary Park Campground (known as "The Pines"), the Yellow Gums (known as "The Gums"), and the North Campground. The Pines is open all year round and is by far the most popular site. It has a number of fireplaces for free use, though wood must be sourced from outside the State Park. The Gums is often used by school groups on weekend trips and has camping at peak times only, while the North Campground sees frequent use by tourists.The park is run by the state government funded Parks Victoria
Parks Victoria
-Department:Parks Victoria was established in December 1996 as a statutory authority, reporting to the Minister for Environment and Climate Change. The Parks Victoria Act 1998 makes Parks Victoria responsible for managing national parks, reserves and other land under the control of the state,...
and is serviced by a toilet block, rain water tank and dish-washing facilities. There is also bore water available, though Parks Victoria advises campers to bring their own as water may not always be available, especially during the harsh, dry summers. The campsite is essentially permanently occupied by climbers, who are subjected to a fee of $2 per night (payable by an honesty system). The fees help in the maintaining of the park.
There are a number of satellite car parks around the mountain that allow for easier access to a number of areas that some might consider to be a considerable walking distance. Such car parks exist at Bushranger Bluff, Declaration Crag, and nearby Mitre Rock. There is also room for parking along the northern access road to the park near "The Pharos" and the "Watchtower Faces" climbing areas. There are two car parks in the summit area, which are used by tourists and climbers alike. The summit car parks are especially useful when accessing the northern climbing areas, provided safer access routes from above.
There is a picnic shelter for day visitors, as well as a public telephone, and an information board. The board briefly documents the history of the area with history, provides information on the activities available in the area, and gives advice on the local flora, fauna. A Telstra
Telstra
Telstra Corporation Limited is an Australian telecommunications and media company, building and operating telecommunications networks and marketing voice, mobile, internet access and pay television products and services....
repeater tower provides mobile phone
Mobile phone
A mobile phone is a device which can make and receive telephone calls over a radio link whilst moving around a wide geographic area. It does so by connecting to a cellular network provided by a mobile network operator...
coverage, though one must walk a few hundred metres down from the campground to the road for adequate reception.
Climbing
Although there are many hiking routes to the top (including one resembling a via ferrataVia ferrata
A via ferrata or klettersteig is a mountain route which is equipped with fixed cables, stemples, ladders, and bridges. The use of these allows otherwise isolated routes to be joined to create longer routes which are accessible to people with a wide range of climbing abilities...
), most ascentionists choose to free climb one of the thousands of vertical routes on the mountain. Since the advent of modern rock climbing, thousands of routes have been recorded.
History
- Note: the modern history of Mount Arapiles is covered in greater detail in many of the works listed in the References section.
Arapiles was first considered for climbing in a recreational manner in September 1963, when Bob and Steve Craddock travelled to Mitre Rock after seeing it in a tourist guide, and saw that their destination was dwarfed by Mount Arapiles. It was a number of weeks and visits before climbing was actually attempted at Arapiles, with the first climbs being recorded in November 1963 on what is now called "The Pinnacle Face". The pioneering group, consisting of the Craddocks, Doug Angus, Peter Jackson, and Greg Lovejoy split into two parties, with each party claiming a route on the same day. Many more climbs were put up in the following days and weeks, including the classic climb Tiptoe Ridge (5), and in 1964 Steve Craddock and his father Bob produced the first Arapiles climbing guidebook on a school duplicating machine (featuring 15 routes).
March 1965 saw the establishment of two significant climbs: The Bard (12) and Watchtower Crack (16). These climbs were done on the same day and are still regarded as classic climbs, often seeing numerous ascents per day. Activity steadily increased at Arapiles and in August 1966, Mike Stone and Ian Speedie released the second guidebook, Mt Arapiles. It was the first hardcover guide in Australia and featured 108 climbs. The rest of the 1960s saw many more new routes put up of increasing difficulty, with many including numerous aid points
Aid climbing
Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress....
. The focus was on "getting up the climb... and staying alive", whether free climbing
Free climbing
Free climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber uses only hands, feet and other parts of the body to ascend, employing ropes and forms of climbing protection to prevent falls only....
or not.
The early 70s saw a lull in activity at Arapiles as attention shifted to the Grampians
Grampians National Park
The Grampians National Park is a national park in Victoria, Australia, 235 kilometres west of Melbourne. The Park was listed on the Australian National Heritage List on 15 December 2006 for its outstanding natural beauty and being one of the richest indigenous rock art sites in south-eastern...
and Mount Buffalo. Interest in Arapiles resurfaced in late 1973 with many imposing lines being climbed with a few aids. These routes brought a sense of accomplishment to the climbing community as new grades were continually being created. In 1975, American visitor "Hot" Henry Barber arrived and began freeing these routes with minimal protection. The 21-year-old made a significant impact at Arapiles, and his visit was a pivotal point in Australian climbing, as climbers worked to support the legacy of Barber by freeing their new lines instead of being content to leave in aid points.
Word of Barber’s achievements spread and attracted a number of new young climbers to Arapiles. This group was later given the name "The New Wave" and throughout the rest of the 70s and early 80s they were responsible for scores of routes in the grade 20–25 range. The likes of Kim Carrigan
Kim Carrigan
Kim Carrigan was Australia's leading exponent of rockclimbing during the late 1970s and early 1980s. Carrigan put up several hundred new routes on crags around the country, in particular at Mount Arapiles, Victoria, where he was based for several years...
, Mike Law and Mark Moorhead helped introduce a number of 26+ climbs, though the latter two did not often grade their climbs accurately (choosing to 'undergrade' them instead). This purposeful undergrading is known as "sandbagging" and is still common in Australian climbing (some would call it tradition), though not as much as it once was.
German
Germany
Germany , officially the Federal Republic of Germany , is a federal parliamentary republic in Europe. The country consists of 16 states while the capital and largest city is Berlin. Germany covers an area of 357,021 km2 and has a largely temperate seasonal climate...
climber Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich , was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.He first started climbing on the Sandstone-rocks of the 'Südpfalz'...
's ascent of Punks in the Gym in April 1985 was major achievement. The route blasts up the middle of a blank, attractive orange wall and gave Arapiles (and Australia) international exposure. At the time it was graded 32 and was the hardest climb in the world, setting a new benchmark for difficulty. Following Güllich's triumph, a number of routes of similar difficulty have been put up, though none take the "easiest way up" such an impressive feature. The fact that 'Punks' is chipped rarely makes it into most histories. In the early 90's a climber who was unable to do the climb added a glue hold which remains to this day.
Arapiles is still a popular climbing destination, with some visitors staying for months at a time. The warm weather, accessibility, quantity and quality of climbs have helped to maintain the popularity of Arapiles with locals, Australians and international travellers alike.
Philosophy
Mount Arapiles is mainly regarded as a traditional climbingTraditional climbing
Traditional climbing, or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers places all gear required to protect against falls , and removes it when a passage is complete...
area – where climbers are expected to place their own protection, and remove it after climbing. The vast majority of climbs are therefore done using removable protection
Protection (climbing)
To make climbing as safe as possible, most climbers use protection, a term used to describe the equipment used to prevent injury to themselves and others.-Types of climbing:...
such as nuts
Nut (climbing)
In rock climbing, a nut is a metal wedge threaded on a wire, used for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Quickdraws are clipped to the nut wire by the ascending climber and the rope threads through the quickdraw. Nuts come in a variety of sizes and styles, and several different...
, cams
Spring loaded camming device
A spring-loaded camming device is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment. It consists of three or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread farther apart...
and RP's.
Contrary to popular belief, Arapiles also has quite a bit of sport climbing
Sport climbing
Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...
. Indeed many of the most interesting sport routes in the country are to be found tucked away in a cool gully or a beautiful orange face. However, there are not many sport routes easier than 23. Popular bolted routes
can be found at the following areas: Dec Crag, Flight Wall and surrounds, Skyline Walls, The Bluffs, Strolling Wall, Castle Crag, The Pharos, Yesterday Gully, Doggers Gully, Poosticks Wall.
Many routes at Araps. have lower-offs, so they can be approached from above or via an easier route. There is a strong tradition dating to the 80's of bringing the route down to your level, and it is now commonplace to rap in and pre-place gear. There are many routes with a mixture of fixed and natural gear for which this approach is suitable.
Chipping the rock to 'improve' holds is regarded as vandalism and is theoretically not tolerated. However,the many exceptions to this stance include routes such as: Steps Ahead, London Calling, 'Sean's route in The Bluffs',Ethiopia, Punks, Lord of the Rings, Wackford direct,Pet Abuse, Slopin' Sleazin' and Cecil B de Mille.
Climbing areas
- For a more detailed treatment of this subject, refer to the works listed in the References and External Links sections.
The following is a list of the more notable climbing areas at Arapiles, including examples of famous climbs.
- Declaration Crag and Bushranger Bluff
- Popular with beginners and school groups, due to the number of easier climbs and secluded location.
- The Atridae
- Home of the "Flight Deck", a collection of more difficult climbs viewable from The Pines.
- The Organ Pipes
- Popular with beginners, school groups and regulars; due to the plentiful amount of classics and its proximity to the campgrounds.
- Bard Buttress and Tiger Wall
- Bard Buttress is a large pillar adjacent to Tiger Wall, which the most dominating feature of Arapiles to the passing observer. It features many multi-pitch classics and the longest climbs at Arapiles.
- The Bluffs
- These two great blocks rest atop Tiger Wall and offer many classic lines that end in a satisfying peak baggingPeak baggingPeak bagging is an activity in which hillwalkers and mountaineers attempt to reach the summit of some collection of peaks, usually those above some height in a particular region, or having a particular feature.Peak bagging can be distinguished from highpointing...
experience.- Castle Crag
- A small free standing rock opposite Tiger Wall; Castle Crag is a heavily concentrated area of climbing in the grade 20–26 range.
- The Pharos
- Named after the Lighthouse of AlexandriaLighthouse of AlexandriaThe Lighthouse of Alexandria, also known as the Pharos of Alexandria , was a tower built between 280 and 247 BC on the island of Pharos at Alexandria, Egypt...
, it is a large pillar of rock isolated from the main mountain. It features Punks Wall; home of Punks in the Gym (32), which at one time was considered the most difficult climb in the world; and the Back Wall, which has a small collection of difficult classics.- The Pinnacle Face
- Home of the first recorded climbs at Arapiles, and also to Tiptoe Ridge (5), a classic multi-pitch adventure.
- The Watchtower Faces
- The left and right faces are water-streaked slabs that straddle the Watchtower itself, which is a rough buttress that has separated from the mountain proper. Watchtower Crack (16) is an imposing line that follows the crack between the Watchtower and the Right Face.
- The Northern Group
- There a number of notable cliffs are in this area; including Henry Bolte Wall, a sport climbingSport climbingSport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...
area; and Kachoong Cliffs, which features Kachoong (21), a famous overhanging roof that is made all the most popular for being one of Australia's most photogenic.- Mitre Rock
- An isolated outcrop to the north of Arapiles, it has many excellent easier routes and is a popular day trip area especially on busy weekends.
Arapiles climbing guide update
Despite a common misbelief that no new routes are possible at Arapiles, development continues today, albeit at a slow pace. An Arapiles climbing guide update was started in March 2009, which records all new or changed routes at Arapiles since the publication of the 2008 guidebook. Additionally, in 2011 climbing at Arapiles entered the digital age as the guidebook was released in both smartphone and tablet format.Bouldering
There are a number of boulderingBouldering
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...
areas sprinkled around Arapiles that cater for all abilities. Two areas that are close to camp are the Krondorf Area and the Golden Streak Area. They are often populated in the late afternoon and early evening after the day's climbing has been done.
External links
- http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Arapiles_new_route_update.pdf Arapiles update - an update of new and changed routes at Arapiles since the 2008 guidebook.
- Rock Climbing Australia page on Mount Arapiles
- www.arapiles.net A website designed to inform people about rock climbing at Mount Arapiles
- Chockstone One of the best online Rock Climbing sites for Mount Arapiles
- Alpinist Magazine Issue 17: Mountain Profile on Mt. Arapiles
- Arapiles climbing Personal account of pioneering climbing at Mount Arapiles