Karen Hess
Encyclopedia
Karen Loft Hess was an American
culinary historian. Her 1977 book The Taste of America co-authored with her late husband, John L. Hess
, established them as anti-establishment members of the culinary world.
, she attended Humboldt State University
in Arcata, California
, where she majored in music. Her husband was later a journalist
(and for a short time in 1973–1974, food editor/critic) for the New York Times. Among their targets were celebrity chef
s Craig Claiborne
, James Beard
and Julia Child
. Hess sought to bring a historic rigor to cooking. The New York Times said in her obituary: "Ms. Hess, known as a kind but combative personality, did not shrink from taking on the icons of American cookery, who she felt presented a false picture not only of the quality of American food and cooking but also of its history."
She encouraged the publication of—and wrote the introduction/historical notes for—a facsimile of the rare second edition of American Cookery
(Applewood Books, 1996), the first known American cookbook, written by Amelia Simmons, and originally published in 1796. She also annotated What Mrs. Fisher Knows about Old Southern Cooking (Applewood Books, 1995), one of the oldest known African-American cookbooks, originally published in 1881.
In 1985, Hess became one of the founding members of The Culinary Historians of New York, an association of food professionals, historians, and others interested in studying and writing on the history of food. On October 19, 2004, The Culinary Historians of New York presented her with their first annual Amelia Award, an award which recognizes excellence in culinary history.
In 2006, she was listed in the eighth annual Saveur 100, from Saveur
magazine, in an article by Shane Mitchell entitled "The Grandest Dame of American Culinary History". Mitchell says that although Hess came from Nebraska, her "soul must be Southern." Hess's The Carolina Rice Kitchen is the story of how rice from Africa became a South Carolina Low Country
staple, as well as how the African cooks shaped Southern cooking.
Hess died in New York City
(in Manhattan
) after suffering a stroke
the week before.
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
culinary historian. Her 1977 book The Taste of America co-authored with her late husband, John L. Hess
John L. Hess
John L. Hess was a prominent American investigative journalist who worked for many years at The New York Times. He left the Times in 1978 and wrote a memoir about his years there, My Times: A Memoir of Dissent.- Biography :Hess was born in New York City, and studied history at City College of New...
, established them as anti-establishment members of the culinary world.
Life and career
Born in Blair, NebraskaBlair, Nebraska
Blair is a city in and the county seat of Washington County, Nebraska, United States. The population was 7,990 at the 2000 census. Blair is a part of the Omaha-Council Bluffs Metropolitan Statistical Area.- History :...
, she attended Humboldt State University
Humboldt State University
Humboldt State University is the northernmost campus of the California State University system, located in Arcata within Humboldt County, California, USA. The main campus, nestled at the edge of a coast redwood forest, is situated on Preston hill overlooking Arcata and with commanding views of...
in Arcata, California
Arcata, California
-Demographics:-2010 Census data:The 2010 United States Census reported that Arcata had a population of 17,231. The population density was 1,567.4 people per square mile...
, where she majored in music. Her husband was later a journalist
Journalist
A journalist collects and distributes news and other information. A journalist's work is referred to as journalism.A reporter is a type of journalist who researchs, writes, and reports on information to be presented in mass media, including print media , electronic media , and digital media A...
(and for a short time in 1973–1974, food editor/critic) for the New York Times. Among their targets were celebrity chef
Celebrity chef
A celebrity chef is a kitchen chef who has become famous and well known. Today celebrity chefs often become celebrities by presenting cookery advice and demonstrations via mass media, especially television. Historically, celebrity chefs have included Antoine Carême and Martino da Como.-External...
s Craig Claiborne
Craig Claiborne
Craig Claiborne was an American restaurant critic, food writer and former food editor of the New York Times. He was the author of numerous cookbooks and an autobiography...
, James Beard
James Beard
James Andrew Beard was an American chef and food writer. The central figure in the story of the establishment of a gourmet American food identity, Beard was an eccentric personality who brought French cooking to the American middle and upper classes in the 1950s...
and Julia Child
Julia Child
Julia Child was an American chef, author, and television personality. She is recognized for introducing French cuisine to the American public with her debut cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and her subsequent television programs, the most notable of which was The French Chef, which...
. Hess sought to bring a historic rigor to cooking. The New York Times said in her obituary: "Ms. Hess, known as a kind but combative personality, did not shrink from taking on the icons of American cookery, who she felt presented a false picture not only of the quality of American food and cooking but also of its history."
She encouraged the publication of—and wrote the introduction/historical notes for—a facsimile of the rare second edition of American Cookery
American Cookery
American Cookery, by Amelia Simmons, was the first known cookbook written by an American, published in 1796. Until this time, the cookbooks printed and used in what became the United States were British cookbooks, so the importance of this book is obvious to American culinary history, and more...
(Applewood Books, 1996), the first known American cookbook, written by Amelia Simmons, and originally published in 1796. She also annotated What Mrs. Fisher Knows about Old Southern Cooking (Applewood Books, 1995), one of the oldest known African-American cookbooks, originally published in 1881.
In 1985, Hess became one of the founding members of The Culinary Historians of New York, an association of food professionals, historians, and others interested in studying and writing on the history of food. On October 19, 2004, The Culinary Historians of New York presented her with their first annual Amelia Award, an award which recognizes excellence in culinary history.
In 2006, she was listed in the eighth annual Saveur 100, from Saveur
Saveur
Saveur is a gourmet, food, wine, and travel magazine that specializes in essays about various world cuisines. The publication was co-founded by Dorothy Kalins, Michael Grossman, Christopher Hirsheimer, and Colman Andrews, who was also the editor-in-chief from 1996 to 2001...
magazine, in an article by Shane Mitchell entitled "The Grandest Dame of American Culinary History". Mitchell says that although Hess came from Nebraska, her "soul must be Southern." Hess's The Carolina Rice Kitchen is the story of how rice from Africa became a South Carolina Low Country
South Carolina Low Country
The Lowcountry is a geographic and cultural region located along South Carolina's coast. The region includes the South Carolina Sea Islands...
staple, as well as how the African cooks shaped Southern cooking.
Hess died in New York City
New York City
New York is the most populous city in the United States and the center of the New York Metropolitan Area, one of the most populous metropolitan areas in the world. New York exerts a significant impact upon global commerce, finance, media, art, fashion, research, technology, education, and...
(in Manhattan
Manhattan
Manhattan is the oldest and the most densely populated of the five boroughs of New York City. Located primarily on the island of Manhattan at the mouth of the Hudson River, the boundaries of the borough are identical to those of New York County, an original county of the state of New York...
) after suffering a stroke
Stroke
A stroke, previously known medically as a cerebrovascular accident , is the rapidly developing loss of brain function due to disturbance in the blood supply to the brain. This can be due to ischemia caused by blockage , or a hemorrhage...
the week before.
As annotator/editor
- English Bread & Yeast Cookery, by Elizabeth DavidElizabeth DavidElizabeth David CBE was a British cookery writer who, in the mid-20th century, strongly influenced the revitalisation of the art of home cookery with articles and books about European cuisines and traditional British dishes.Born to an upper-class family, David rebelled against social norms of the...
. American Edition with notes by Karen Hess, New York: Viking PressViking PressViking Press is an American publishing company owned by the Penguin Group, which has owned the company since 1975. It was founded in New York City on March 1, 1925, by Harold K. Guinzburg and George S. Oppenheim...
, 1980, ISBN 978-0-670-29653-8 - Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery. Columbia University PressColumbia University PressColumbia University Press is a university press based in New York City, and affiliated with Columbia University. It is currently directed by James D. Jordan and publishes titles in the humanities and sciences, including the fields of literary and cultural studies, history, social work, sociology,...
, 1981, ISBN 978-0-231-04930-6 - Mary Randolph’s 'Virginia Housewife. University of South Carolina PressUniversity of South Carolina PressThe University of South Carolina Press , founded in 1944, is a university press that is part of the University of South Carolina.-External links:*...
, 1983, ISBN 978-0-87249-423-7 - What Mrs. Fisher Knows about Old Southern Cooking Applewood BooksApplewood BooksApplewood Books is a book publishing company founded by Phil Zuckerman in 1976. They specialize in publishing exacting recreations of historic books, including complex reprints of children's art and pop-up books and other books published by methods which duplicate antique publishing techniques. ...
, 1995, ISBN 978-1-55709-403-2 - American Cookery by Amelia Simmons [1796], Applewood BooksApplewood BooksApplewood Books is a book publishing company founded by Phil Zuckerman in 1976. They specialize in publishing exacting recreations of historic books, including complex reprints of children's art and pop-up books and other books published by methods which duplicate antique publishing techniques. ...
, 1996, ISBN 978-1-55709-439-1 - The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy [1805] by Mrs. Hannah GlasseHannah GlasseHannah Glasse was an English cookery writer of the 18th century. She is best known for her cookbook, The Art of Cookery, first published in 1747...
. Facsimile edition annotated by Karen Hess, Applewood BooksApplewood BooksApplewood Books is a book publishing company founded by Phil Zuckerman in 1976. They specialize in publishing exacting recreations of historic books, including complex reprints of children's art and pop-up books and other books published by methods which duplicate antique publishing techniques. ...
(1998) ISBN 978-1-55709-462-9
As author
- The Taste of America. University of Illinois PressUniversity of Illinois PressThe University of Illinois Press , is a major American university press and part of the University of Illinois system. Founded in 1918, the press publishes some 120 new books each year, plus 33 scholarly journals, and several electronic projects...
, 1977, ISBN 978-0-87249-640-8 Co-authored with John L. Hess - The Carolina Rice Kitchen: The African Connection. University of South Carolina PressUniversity of South Carolina PressThe University of South Carolina Press , founded in 1944, is a university press that is part of the University of South Carolina.-External links:*...
, 1992, ISBN 978-1-57003-208-0
External links
- The Taste of America via University of Illinois PressUniversity of Illinois PressThe University of Illinois Press , is a major American university press and part of the University of Illinois system. Founded in 1918, the press publishes some 120 new books each year, plus 33 scholarly journals, and several electronic projects...
- Karen Hess: A culinary giant's legacy Obituary by Damon Lee Fowler in the Savannah Morning News, May 30, 2007 [Savannah, Georgia, USA]