Craig Claiborne
Encyclopedia
Craig Claiborne was an American
restaurant critic, food
writer
and former food editor of the New York Times. He was the author of numerous cookbooks and an autobiography
. Over the course of his career, he made many contributions to gastronomy
and food writing in the United States.
, Mississippi
, and raised on the region's cuisine in the kitchen of his mother's boarding house, Claiborne served in the US Navy during World War II
and the Korean War
. After deciding that his true passion lay in cooking, he used his G.I. Bill scholarship to attend the École Hôtelière in Lausanne, Switzerland. Returning from Europe, he worked his way up in the food publishing business in New York as a contributor to Gourmet
magazine, a food products publicist and finally food editor of The New York Times
in 1957. Claiborne was the first man to supervise the food page at a major American newspaper and is credited with broadening the Timess coverage of new restaurants and innovative chefs. A typical food section of a newspaper in the 50s was largely targeted to a female readership and limited to columns on entertaining and cooking for the upscale homemaker. Claiborne brought his expert knowledge of cuisine and own passion for food to the pages, transforming it into an important cultural and social bellwether for New York and the nation at large.
Claiborne's columns, reviews and cookbooks introduced a generation of Americans to a variety of ethnic cuisines – particularly Asian and Mexican – at a time when average Americans had conservative tastes in food, and what little gourmet cooking was available in cities like New York was exclusively French (and, Claiborne observed, not terribly high quality). Looking to hold restaurants accountable for what they served and help the public make informed choices about where to spend their dining dollars, he created the now-famous four-star system of rating restaurants still used by the Times and which has been widely imitated. Claiborne's reviews were exacting and uncompromising, but he also approached his task as a critic with an open mind and eye for cooking that was different, creative and likely to appeal to his readers.
Inspired by writers like M.F.K. Fisher, Claiborne also enjoyed documenting his own eating experiences and the discovery of new talent and new culinary trends across the country and across the world. Among the many then-unknown chefs he brought to the public's attention was the New Orleans restaurateur Paul Prudhomme
. Few people outside the Deep South at the time had any awareness of Louisiana's Cajun culture or its unique culinary traditions. Along with Julia Child
, Claiborne has been credited with making the often intimidating world of French and other ethnic cuisine accessible to an American audience and American tastes. Claiborne authored or edited over 20 cookbooks on a wide range of foods and culinary styles, including some of the first best-selling cookbooks dedicated to healthy, low-sodium and low-cholesterol diets. He had a long-time professional relationship and collaborated on many books and projects with the French-born New York chef Pierre Franey
.
to most of his friends and colleagues, he struggled to come to terms with his sexuality. In his 1982 autobiography, A Feast Made for Laughter, Claiborne described a bizarre, almost Faulknerian, childhood and adolescence in small-town Mississippi where he was mocked by schoolmates for his meek temperament and dislike of sports and had explicit sexual contact with his own father on at least one occasion. His mother was a warm and very genteel Southern lady, but doting and often overprotective of her young son. The young Claiborne often sought solace in the company of his mother's black kitchen and housekeeping staff, whose food, humor and culture he came to love.
Claiborne, who suffered from a variety of health problems in his later years, died at age 79 on January 22, 2000. In his will, he bequeathed his estate to the Culinary Institute of America
in Hyde Park, New York
.
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
restaurant critic, food
Food
Food is any substance consumed to provide nutritional support for the body. It is usually of plant or animal origin, and contains essential nutrients, such as carbohydrates, fats, proteins, vitamins, or minerals...
writer
Writer
A writer is a person who produces literature, such as novels, short stories, plays, screenplays, poetry, or other literary art. Skilled writers are able to use language to portray ideas and images....
and former food editor of the New York Times. He was the author of numerous cookbooks and an autobiography
Autobiography
An autobiography is a book about the life of a person, written by that person.-Origin of the term:...
. Over the course of his career, he made many contributions to gastronomy
Gastronomy
Gastronomy is the art or science of food eating. Also, it can be defined as the study of food and culture, with a particular focus on gourmet cuisine...
and food writing in the United States.
Education & Career
Born in SunflowerSunflower, Mississippi
Sunflower is a town in Sunflower County, Mississippi, United States. The population was 696 at the 2000 census.-Geography:Sunflower is located at ....
, Mississippi
Mississippi
Mississippi is a U.S. state located in the Southern United States. Jackson is the state capital and largest city. The name of the state derives from the Mississippi River, which flows along its western boundary, whose name comes from the Ojibwe word misi-ziibi...
, and raised on the region's cuisine in the kitchen of his mother's boarding house, Claiborne served in the US Navy during World War II
World War II
World War II, or the Second World War , was a global conflict lasting from 1939 to 1945, involving most of the world's nations—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing military alliances: the Allies and the Axis...
and the Korean War
Korean War
The Korean War was a conventional war between South Korea, supported by the United Nations, and North Korea, supported by the People's Republic of China , with military material aid from the Soviet Union...
. After deciding that his true passion lay in cooking, he used his G.I. Bill scholarship to attend the École Hôtelière in Lausanne, Switzerland. Returning from Europe, he worked his way up in the food publishing business in New York as a contributor to Gourmet
Gourmet (magazine)
Gourmet magazine was a monthly publication of Condé Nast and the first U.S. magazine devoted to food and wine. Founded by Earle R. MacAusland and first published in 1941, Gourmet also covered "good living" on a wider scale....
magazine, a food products publicist and finally food editor of The New York Times
The New York Times
The New York Times is an American daily newspaper founded and continuously published in New York City since 1851. The New York Times has won 106 Pulitzer Prizes, the most of any news organization...
in 1957. Claiborne was the first man to supervise the food page at a major American newspaper and is credited with broadening the Timess coverage of new restaurants and innovative chefs. A typical food section of a newspaper in the 50s was largely targeted to a female readership and limited to columns on entertaining and cooking for the upscale homemaker. Claiborne brought his expert knowledge of cuisine and own passion for food to the pages, transforming it into an important cultural and social bellwether for New York and the nation at large.
Claiborne's columns, reviews and cookbooks introduced a generation of Americans to a variety of ethnic cuisines – particularly Asian and Mexican – at a time when average Americans had conservative tastes in food, and what little gourmet cooking was available in cities like New York was exclusively French (and, Claiborne observed, not terribly high quality). Looking to hold restaurants accountable for what they served and help the public make informed choices about where to spend their dining dollars, he created the now-famous four-star system of rating restaurants still used by the Times and which has been widely imitated. Claiborne's reviews were exacting and uncompromising, but he also approached his task as a critic with an open mind and eye for cooking that was different, creative and likely to appeal to his readers.
Inspired by writers like M.F.K. Fisher, Claiborne also enjoyed documenting his own eating experiences and the discovery of new talent and new culinary trends across the country and across the world. Among the many then-unknown chefs he brought to the public's attention was the New Orleans restaurateur Paul Prudhomme
Paul Prudhomme
Paul Prudhomme is an American celebrity chef whose specialty is Cajun cuisine. He is also the owner of one of the top restaurants in New Orleans, K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen.-Early life:...
. Few people outside the Deep South at the time had any awareness of Louisiana's Cajun culture or its unique culinary traditions. Along with Julia Child
Julia Child
Julia Child was an American chef, author, and television personality. She is recognized for introducing French cuisine to the American public with her debut cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and her subsequent television programs, the most notable of which was The French Chef, which...
, Claiborne has been credited with making the often intimidating world of French and other ethnic cuisine accessible to an American audience and American tastes. Claiborne authored or edited over 20 cookbooks on a wide range of foods and culinary styles, including some of the first best-selling cookbooks dedicated to healthy, low-sodium and low-cholesterol diets. He had a long-time professional relationship and collaborated on many books and projects with the French-born New York chef Pierre Franey
Pierre Franey
Pierre Franey was a French chef, best known for his televised cooking shows and his "60 Minute Gourmet" column in The New York Times.Franey grew up in northern Burgundy, France...
.
Personal life
Claiborne was a fixture of the New York social scene for decades. His lavish, celebrity-studded birthday parties at his East Hampton estate were a regular event on the Manhattan social calendar. He was gay, and although he was outComing out
Coming out is a figure of speech for lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender people's disclosure of their sexual orientation and/or gender identity....
to most of his friends and colleagues, he struggled to come to terms with his sexuality. In his 1982 autobiography, A Feast Made for Laughter, Claiborne described a bizarre, almost Faulknerian, childhood and adolescence in small-town Mississippi where he was mocked by schoolmates for his meek temperament and dislike of sports and had explicit sexual contact with his own father on at least one occasion. His mother was a warm and very genteel Southern lady, but doting and often overprotective of her young son. The young Claiborne often sought solace in the company of his mother's black kitchen and housekeeping staff, whose food, humor and culture he came to love.
Claiborne, who suffered from a variety of health problems in his later years, died at age 79 on January 22, 2000. In his will, he bequeathed his estate to the Culinary Institute of America
Culinary Institute of America
The Culinary Institute of America is a non-profit culinary college located in Hyde Park USA, founded in 1946. The CIA also has branch campuses in St. Helena, California, and San Antonio, Texas, as well as a campus in Singapore. It is a not-for-profit academic institution of higher learning...
in Hyde Park, New York
Hyde Park, New York
Hyde Park is a town located in the northwest part of Dutchess County, New York, United States, just north of the city of Poughkeepsie. The town is most famous for being the hometown of U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt....
.
The $4,000 Meal
One of the most famous episodes in Claiborne's career occurred in 1975 when he placed a $300 winning bid at a charity auction for a no price-limit dinner for two at any restaurant of the winner's choice, sponsored by the American Express company. Selecting his friend Pierre Franey as his dining companion, the two settled on the prestigious Parisian restaurant Chez Denis where they racked up a $4,000 tab on a five-hour, 31-course meal of foie gras, truffles, lobster, caviar and rare wines. When Claiborne later wrote about the experience in his Times column, the paper received a deluge of reader mail expressing outrage at such an extravagance at a time when so many in the world went without. Even the Vatican and Pope Paul VI criticized it, calling it "scandalous" http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/food_and_drink/features/article2255670.ece. It was also noted that he and Franey ordered nearly every dish on the menu, but they took only a few bites of each one. Despite its scale and expense, Claiborne gave the meal a mixed review, noting that several dishes fell short in terms of conception, presentation or quality.Books
- Craig Claiborne's Southern Cooking [1987]
- The New York Times Cookbook
- Craig Claiborne's The New New York Times Cookbook
- The New York Times International Cookbook
- A Feast Made for Laughter (autobiography)
- Craig Claiborne's Kitchen Primer
- Craig Claiborne's The New York Times Food Encyclopedia
- Craig Claiborne's Gourmet Diet (with Pierre Franey)
- The Master Cooking Course (with Pierre Franey)
- Cooking with Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey
- Cooking with Herbs and Spices
- Veal Cookery
- Classic French Cooking
- Elements of Etiquette: A Guide to Table Manners in an Imperfect World
- Craig Claiborne's Memorable Meals Menus, Memories and Recipes from over Twenty Years of Entertaining
- Craig Claiborne's Favorites from The New York Times [1975]
- (story on $4000 meal is anthologized in) American Food Writing: An Anthology with Classic Recipes, ed. Molly O'Neill (Library of America, 2007) ISBN 1598530054
Quotes
- "Cooking is at once child's play and adult joy. And cooking done with care is an act of love." -- Craig Claiborne http://www.htdp.org/2003-09-26/Book/curriculum-Z-H-2.html
- "I am simply of the opinion that you cannot be taught to write. You have to spend a lifetime in love with words." (A Feast for Laughter, p. 150)
External links
- http://myweb.lsbu.ac.uk/~stafflag/craigclaiborne.html Obituary