James Beard
Encyclopedia
James Andrew Beard was an American chef
Chef
A chef is a person who cooks professionally for other people. Although over time the term has come to describe any person who cooks for a living, traditionally it refers to a highly skilled professional who is proficient in all aspects of food preparation.-Etymology:The word "chef" is borrowed ...

 and food writer. The central figure in the story of the establishment of a gourmet American food identity, Beard was an eccentric personality who brought French
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...

 cooking to the American middle and upper classes in the 1950s. His legacy lives on in twenty books, numerous writings, his own foundation, and his foundation's annual Beard awards
James Beard Foundation Award
The James Beard Foundation Awards were established in 1990 and are often called "The Oscars of Food." Held on the first weekend in May, the Awards honor the finest chefs, restaurants, wine professionals, journalists, cookbook authors, restaurant designers, and other food professionals in the...

 in various culinary genres.

Early life

Beard was born in Portland, Oregon
Portland, Oregon
Portland is a city located in the Pacific Northwest, near the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia rivers in the U.S. state of Oregon. As of the 2010 Census, it had a population of 583,776, making it the 29th most populous city in the United States...

, to Elizabeth and John Beard. His mother operated The Gladstone Hotel and his father worked at the city's customs house. The family vacationed on the Pacific coast in Gearhart, Oregon
Gearhart, Oregon
Gearhart is a city in Clatsop County, Oregon, United States. The population was 995 at the 2000 census. The 2007 estimate is 1,185 residents.- Geography :...

. There, Beard was exposed to the unique local foods of the Pacific Northwest
Pacific Northwest
The Pacific Northwest is a region in northwestern North America, bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the west and, loosely, by the Rocky Mountains on the east. Definitions of the region vary and there is no commonly agreed upon boundary, even among Pacific Northwesterners. A common concept of the...

, including seafood and wild berries.

Beard's earliest memory of food was the Lewis and Clark Exposition of 1905, when he was just two years old. Beard in his memoir recalled:
I was taken to the exposition two or three times. The thing that remained in my mind above all others — I think it marked my life — was watching Triscuit
Triscuit
Triscuit is a snack cracker, made by Nabisco, which takes the form of square baked whole wheat wafers. It was invented in 1900, a patent was granted in 1902, and the Shredded Wheat Company, in Niagara Falls, New York began production the next year....

s and shredded wheat biscuits being made. Isn't that crazy? At two years old that memory was made. It intrigued the hell out of me.


At the age of three, Beard was bedridden with malaria
Malaria
Malaria is a mosquito-borne infectious disease of humans and other animals caused by eukaryotic protists of the genus Plasmodium. The disease results from the multiplication of Plasmodium parasites within red blood cells, causing symptoms that typically include fever and headache, in severe cases...

. This sickness gave him time to eat and enjoy the food prepared by his mother and their Chinese helper. Beard's early childhood, and the influence that Chinese cooking had on him, helped prepare him for a later life at the forefront of culinary American chic. According to Beard, he was raised by Thema and Let who instilled a passion for Chinese culture. According to David Kamp, "in 1940 — he realized that part of his mission [as a food connoisseur] was to defend the pleasure of real cooking and fresh ingredients against the assault of the Jell-O-mold people and the domestic scientists." Beard lived in France in the 1920s. Consequently, he experienced French cuisine at bistros. As a result of this exposure and the subsequent influence of French culinary culture, he became a Francophile
Francophile
Is a person with a positive predisposition or interest toward the government, culture, history, or people of France. This could include France itself and its history, the French language, French cuisine, literature, etc...

.

Education

According to the James Beard Foundation, "After a brief stint at Reed College
Reed College
Reed College is a private, independent, liberal arts college located in southeast Portland, Oregon. Founded in 1908, Reed is a residential college with a campus located in Portland's Eastmoreland neighborhood, featuring architecture based on the Tudor-Gothic style, and a forested canyon wilderness...

 in Portland," (from which he was expelled in 1922 for homosexual activity) "in 1923 Beard went on the road with a theatrical troupe. He lived abroad for several years studying voice and theater, but returned to the United States for good in 1927."

Career

He trained initially as a singer and actor, and moved to New York City
New York City
New York is the most populous city in the United States and the center of the New York Metropolitan Area, one of the most populous metropolitan areas in the world. New York exerts a significant impact upon global commerce, finance, media, art, fashion, research, technology, education, and...

 in 1937. Not having much luck in the theater, he and his friend, Bill Rhodes, capitalized on the cocktail party
Cocktail party
A cocktail party is a party where cocktails are served. Women may choose to wear what has become known as a cocktail dress.Although many believe the inventor of the cocktail party to be Alec Waugh of London, who in 1924 found a need for this pleasant interlude before a dinner party, an article in...

 craze by opening a catering company, "Hors d'Oeuvre, Inc.", which led to the publication of Beard's first cookbook, Hors D'Oeuvre and Canapés, a compilation of his catering recipes. Rationing difficulties during World War II
World War II
World War II, or the Second World War , was a global conflict lasting from 1939 to 1945, involving most of the world's nations—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing military alliances: the Allies and the Axis...

 brought his catering business to a halt. In 1946, he appeared on an early televised cooking show, I Love to Eat
I Love to Eat
I Love to Eat is a live television series on NBC which aired from 30 August 1946 to 1947, and was a cooking show hosted by chef and cookbook author James Beard. When the show started, each episode was 15 minutes long and presented at 8:30pm EST on Fridays, immediately before The World in Your Home...

, on NBC
NBC
The National Broadcasting Company is an American commercial broadcasting television network and former radio network headquartered in the GE Building in New York City's Rockefeller Center with additional major offices near Los Angeles and in Chicago...

, and thus began his rise as an eminent American food authority.

According to Julia Child
Julia Child
Julia Child was an American chef, author, and television personality. She is recognized for introducing French cuisine to the American public with her debut cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and her subsequent television programs, the most notable of which was The French Chef, which...

, Beard was on the culinary road map in 1940 with the publication of his first book, Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapés. Beard started out with a catering business in New York, followed by lecturing, teaching, and writing both books and articles. Child states, "Through the years he gradually became not only the leading culinary figure in the country, but 'The Dean of American Cuisine'." According to the James Beard Foundation website: "In 1955, he established The James Beard Cooking School. He continued to teach cooking to men and women for the next 30 years, both at his own schools (in New York City and Seaside, Oregon), and around the country at women's clubs, other cooking schools, and civic groups. He was a tireless traveler, bringing his message of good food, honestly prepared with fresh, wholesome, American ingredients, to a country just becoming aware of its own culinary heritage."

James Beard brought French cooking to the American middle and upper classes in the 1950s. Beard starred on TV as a cooking personality. David Kamp notes that this show was the first cooking show on TV. Kamp contrasts Dione Lucas's cooking show and cooking school with that of James Beard, noting also that their prominence in the 1950s marked the emergence of a New York-based, nationally- and internationally-known sophisticated food culture. Kamp notes, "It was in this decade [the 1950s] that Beard made his name as James Beard, the brand name, the face and belly of American gastronomy." Kamp points out that Beard was able to meet Alice B. Toklas
Alice B. Toklas
Alice B. Toklas was an American-born member of the Parisian avant-garde of the early 20th century.-Early life, relationship with Gertrude Stein:...

 on a trip to Paris, illustrating Beard's extensive network of fellow food celebrities that would follow him throughout his life and carry on his legacy after his death.

Financial needs caused Beard to sign endorsement deals promoting products that he might otherwise have not used or suggested in his own cuisine, had he been financially independent. Beard entered into an endorsement project with the Green Giant
Green Giant
Green Giant and Le Sueur are brands of frozen and canned vegetables owned by General Mills. The mascot of Green Giant is the Jolly Green Giant....

 canned food company. Kamp explains that Beard felt that he was a "gastronomic whore" for doing so. Apparently, mass-produced food that was neither fresh, local, nor seasonal, was a betrayal of Beard's gastronomic beliefs, but arose from his desire to pay for his cooking schools.

In 1981, along with friend Gael Greene
Gael Greene
Gael Greene is an American restaurant critic, author and novelist. She became New York magazine's restaurant critic in fall, 1968 at a time when most New Yorkers were unsophisticated about food and there were few chefs anyone knew by name. She was a passionate early "foodie" before that word was...

, Beard founded Citymeals-on-Wheels
Citymeals-on-Wheels
Citymeals-on-Wheels is Meals on Wheels-type nonprofit organization in New York City that raises private funds to ensure no homebound elderly New Yorker goes without food or human company.- History :...

, which continues to help feed the home-bound elderly in New York City
New York City
New York is the most populous city in the United States and the center of the New York Metropolitan Area, one of the most populous metropolitan areas in the world. New York exerts a significant impact upon global commerce, finance, media, art, fashion, research, technology, education, and...

.

Personal life

Julia Child accurately sums up Beard's personal life in a brief description:
Beard was the quintessential American cook. Well-educated and well-traveled during his eighty-two years, he was familiar with many cuisines but he remained fundamentally American. He was a big man, over six feet tall, with a big belly, and huge hands. An endearing and always lively teacher, he loved people, loved his work, loved gossip, loved to eat, loved a good time.
Child's summary makes two significant omissions. The first is that he was homosexual. Beard's memoir states: "By the time I was seven, I knew that I was gay. I think it's time to talk about that now." The second was Beard's own admission of possessing "until I was about forty-five, I guess a really violent temper."

Mark Bittman (who did not know Beard personally) describes him in a manner similar to that of Julia Child: "In a time when serious cooking meant French Cooking, Beard was quintessentially American, a Westerner whose mother ran a boardinghouse, a man who grew up with hotcakes and salmon and meatloaf in his blood. A man who was born a hundred years ago on the other side of the country, in a city, Portland, that at the time was every bit as cosmopolitan as, say, Allegheny PA
Allegheny, Pennsylvania
Allegheny City was a Pennsylvania municipality located on the north side of the junction of the Allegheny and Ohio rivers, across from downtown Pittsburgh. It was annexed by Pittsburgh in 1907...

."

Beard died January 21, 1985, in New York City, New York, United States
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...

, of heart failure at the age of 81. He was cremated, and his ashes were scattered over the beach in Gearhart, Oregon
Gearhart, Oregon
Gearhart is a city in Clatsop County, Oregon, United States. The population was 995 at the 2000 census. The 2007 estimate is 1,185 residents.- Geography :...

, United States
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...

, where he spent his summers as a child.

Foundation

The James Beard Foundation
James Beard Foundation
The James Beard Foundation is a New York-based national professional non-profit organization named in honor of James Beard that serves to promote the culinary arts by honoring chefs, wine professionals, journalists, and cookbook authors at annual award ceremonies and providing scholarships and...

 was set up in Beard's honor to provide scholarships to aspiring food professionals and to champion the American culinary tradition — which Beard helped create. Since 2001 the Beard Foundation has awarded over $2.2 million in scholarships and tuition waivers to young culinarians and career changers pursuing culinary studies.

For a time, the foundation was plagued by scandal; in 2004 its head, Leonard Pickell, resigned and was imprisoned for grand larceny
Grand Larceny
Grand Larceny is a 1987 thriller film directed by Jeannot Szwarc and starring Marilu Henner, Ian McShane, Omar Sharif and Louis Jourdan.-Plot summary:...

 and in 2005 the board of trustees resigned. It was during this period that chef and writer Anthony Bourdain
Anthony Bourdain
Anthony Michael "Tony" Bourdain is an American chef, author and television personality. He is well known for his 2000 book Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly, and is the host of Travel Channel's culinary and cultural adventure program Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations.A...

 referred to the foundation as "a kind of benevolent shakedown operation". Since that time a completely new board of trustees has instituted a new ethics policy and selected a new president, Susan Ungaro, both actions explicitly targeted at preventing further abuse.

The foundation continues to experience some financial difficulty; it has operated at a deficit for several consecutive years, though the size of that deficit has decreased since Pickell's departure and 2010 is expected to be a turnaround year for the organization.

After Beard's death in 1985, Julia Child
Julia Child
Julia Child was an American chef, author, and television personality. She is recognized for introducing French cuisine to the American public with her debut cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and her subsequent television programs, the most notable of which was The French Chef, which...

 had the idea to preserve his home in New York City as the gathering place it was throughout his life. Peter Kump, a former student of Beard's and the founder of the Institute of Culinary Education
Institute of Culinary Education
The Institute of Culinary Education is an American culinary school located in New York City, New York.Accredited by the Accrediting Commission of Career Schools and Colleges , ICE offers comprehensive 8- to 13-month career training diploma programs in Culinary Arts, Pastry & Baking Arts, Culinary...

 (formerly Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), spearheaded the effort to purchase the house and create the James Beard Foundation
James Beard Foundation
The James Beard Foundation is a New York-based national professional non-profit organization named in honor of James Beard that serves to promote the culinary arts by honoring chefs, wine professionals, journalists, and cookbook authors at annual award ceremonies and providing scholarships and...

.

Beard's renovated brownstone
Brownstone
Brownstone is a brown Triassic or Jurassic sandstone which was once a popular building material. The term is also used in the United States to refer to a terraced house clad in this material.-Types:-Apostle Island brownstone:...

 is located at 167 West 12th Street, in the heart of Greenwich Village
Greenwich Village
Greenwich Village, , , , .in New York often simply called "the Village", is a largely residential neighborhood on the west side of Lower Manhattan in New York City. A large majority of the district is home to upper middle class families...

. It is North America
North America
North America is a continent wholly within the Northern Hemisphere and almost wholly within the Western Hemisphere. It is also considered a northern subcontinent of the Americas...

's only historical culinary center, a place where Foundation members, the press, and the general public are encouraged to savor the creations of both established and emerging chefs from across the country and around the globe.

The annual James Beard Foundation Award
James Beard Foundation Award
The James Beard Foundation Awards were established in 1990 and are often called "The Oscars of Food." Held on the first weekend in May, the Awards honor the finest chefs, restaurants, wine professionals, journalists, cookbook authors, restaurant designers, and other food professionals in the...

s are given at the industry's biggest party, part of a fortnight of activities that celebrate fine cuisine and Beard's birthday. Held on the first Monday in May, the Awards ceremony honors the finest chefs, restaurants, journalists, cookbook authors, restaurant designers, and electronic media professionals in the country. It culminates in a reception featuring a tasting of the signature dishes of more than 30 of the James Beard Foundation's very best chefs.

A quarterly magazine, Beard House, is a comprehensive compendium of the best in culinary journalism. The foundation also publishes the James Beard Foundation Restaurant Directory, a directory of all chefs who have either presented a meal at the Beard House or have participated in one of the foundation's out-of-House fundraising events.

Works

  • Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapés 1940 (M. Barrows & Co.), revised in 1963 and 1985
  • Cook It Outdoors 1941 (M. Barrows & Co.)
  • Fowl and Game Cookery 1944 (M. Barrows & Co.)
  • The Fireside Cook Book: A Complete Guide to Fine Cooking for Beginner and Expert 1949 (Simon and Schuster), reissued in 1982 as The Fireside Cookbook
  • Paris Cuisine 1952 (Little, Brown) Beard co-wrote Paris Cuisine with British journalist Alexander Watt.
  • The Complete Book of Barbecue & Rotisserie Cooking 1954 (Maco Magazine Corp.), reissued in 1958 as New Barbecue Cookbook and again in 1966 as Jim Beard's Barbecue Cookbook
  • Complete Cookbook for Entertaining 1954 (Maco Magazine Corp.)
  • How to Eat Better for Less Money 1954 (Simon and Schuster)
  • James Beard's Fish Cookery 1954 (Little, Brown), reissued in 1976 and 1987 in paperback as James Beard's New Fish Cookery
  • Casserole Cookbook 1955 (Maco Magazine Corp.)
  • The Complete Book of Outdoor Cookery 1955 (Doubleday)
  • The James Beard Cookbook 1959 (Dell Publishing Co.), revised in 1961, 1970, 1987 (paperback) and 1996
  • Treasury of Outdoor Cooking 1960 (Golden Press)
  • Delights & Prejudices: A Memoir with Recipes 1964 (Atheneum), revised in 1981 and 1990
  • James Beard's Menus for Entertaining 1965 (Delacorte Press)
  • How to Eat (and Drink) Your Way through a French (or Italian) Menu 1971 (Atheneum)
  • James Beard's American Cookery 1972 (Little, Brown)
  • Beard on Bread 1973 (Knopf), revised in 1995 (paperback)
  • James Beard Cooks with Corning 1973
  • Beard on Food 1974 (Knopf)
  • New Recipes for the Cuisinart Food Processor 1976
  • James Beard's Theory & Practice of Good Cooking 1977 (Knopf), revised in 1978, 1986, and 1990
  • The New James Beard 1981 (Knopf), revised in 1989
  • Beard on Pasta 1983 (Knopf)
  • The Grand Grand Marnier Cookbook
  • Benson & Hedges 100's Presents: 100 of the World's Greatest Recipes by James Beard 1976
  • The James Beard Cookbook on CuisineVu 1987
  • James Beard's Simple Foods 1993 (Macmillan)
  • Love and Kisses and a Halo of Truffles 1994 (Arcade), edited by John Ferrone
  • The James Beard Cookbooks 1997 (Thames and Hudson), edited by John Ferrone
  • The Armchair James Beard 1999 (The Lyons Press), edited by John Ferrone

Archival collection

The James Beard Papers are housed in the Fales Library
Fales Library
New York University's Fales Library and Special Collections is located on the third floor of the Elmer Holmes Bobst Library at 70 Washington Square South between LaGuardia Place and the Schwartz Plaza, in the Greenwich Village neighborhood of Manhattan, New York City. It houses nearly 200,000...

 at New York University
New York University
New York University is a private, nonsectarian research university based in New York City. NYU's main campus is situated in the Greenwich Village section of Manhattan...

. See The Fales Library Guide to the James Beard Papers

External links

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