Groves classification system
Encyclopedia
The Groves classification system is a system intended to enable the shape of any academic gown or hood
Academic dress
Academic dress or academical dress is a traditional form of clothing for academic settings, primarily tertiary education, worn mainly by those that have been admitted to a university degree or hold a status that entitles them to assume them...

 of the United Kingdom
Academic dress in the United Kingdom
The Academic Dress of the United Kingdom and Ireland has a long history and has influenced the academic dress of America and beyond. The academic square cap was invented in the UK as well as the hood which developed from the lay dress of the medieval period....

 to be easily classified and identified. It was devised by Dr Nicholas Groves and adopted as standard by the community of scholars that study academic dress. Dr Groves is a fellow of the Burgon Society
Burgon Society
The Burgon Society was founded in 2000 for the study and promotion of academical dress, to preserve its history, and to advise film and television companies and interested others in its correct usage. The President of the society is James P.S. Thomson, MS , DM , FRCS, FBS, Master of London...

, which is a scholarly organization committed to the serious study of academic dress. The system was first presented in the Burgon Society's annual in 2001. His intention was to remedy the situation whereby individual universities each used different words to describe the same things. It was quickly adopted by most serious scholars of academic dress. The system of classfication is most often used to describe academic dress of British universities and those whose academic dress derives from them.

Classes

The original Groves system for classifying academic dress included a standardization for shapes and patterns of hoods and gowns worn by graduates and undergraduates. Further information was given regarding the use of different fabrics and standardization of colors, but the focus was placed on gowns and hoods which are explained further below.

Gowns

Gowns in the Groves system are divided into three classes. These generally follow the shapes associated with each different academic degree
Academic degree
An academic degree is a position and title within a college or university that is usually awarded in recognition of the recipient having either satisfactorily completed a prescribed course of study or having conducted a scholarly endeavour deemed worthy of his or her admission to the degree...

 in the British educational system.
  • [b] bachelor's
    Bachelor's degree
    A bachelor's degree is usually an academic degree awarded for an undergraduate course or major that generally lasts for three or four years, but can range anywhere from two to six years depending on the region of the world...

     gowns typically have large open sleeves
  • [m] master's
    Master's degree
    A master's is an academic degree granted to individuals who have undergone study demonstrating a mastery or high-order overview of a specific field of study or area of professional practice...

     gowns typically have long closed sleeves with armhole at elbow level
  • [d] doctor's robes vary in shape widely between institutions and are all classed as [d]


The following table reflects the Groves classification system as of 9 September 2010.
Code Example Notes
Bachelors gowns
[b1] Basic bachelor plain open sleeves, point reaching knee
[b2] Cambridge
Academic dress of the University of Cambridge
The University of Cambridge has a long tradition of academic dress, which it traditionally refers to as academical dress . Almost every degree which is awarded by the University has its own distinct gown in addition to having its own hood...

 BA
sleeve has slit in foream seam
[b3] Cambridge MB front of sleeve has foldback and cord and button
[b4] London
Academic dress of the University of London
Academic dress of the University of London describes the robes, gowns and hoods which are prescribed by the university for its graduates and undergraduates. The University of London was created out of a partnership between University College and Kings College, receiving its royal charter in 1836....

 BA
front of sleeve is pleated and held by cord and button
[b5] Durham
Academic dress of Durham University
The academic dress of Durham University has many similarities with that of other older British universities such as Oxford and Cambridge. Most Durham colleges insist on gowns being worn on formal occasions, including matriculation and formal halls ; exceptions are Van Mildert, St Cuthbert's Society...

 BA
lower 8" of forearm seam left open, and held by button and loop
[b6] Wales
Academic dress of the University of Wales
The academic dress of the former University of Wales was designed for the first graduations in 1893, and has as its main identifying feature a faculty colour scheme involving 'shot silks'.- Gowns :...

 BA
lower 6" of forearm seam left open and folded back, held by 2 buttons, with third button on seam in middle
[b7] Bath BA as [b5], but with button at top of slit
[b8] Oxford
Academic dress of the University of Oxford
The University of Oxford has a long tradition of academic dress, and a visitor to Oxford during term will see academic dress worn on a regular basis.- When academic dress is worn :...

 BA
as [b1], but sleeves reach hem of gown
[b9] Belfast BA bell sleeve, pleated as [b4]
[b10] Dublin
Academic dress of the University of Dublin
Academic dress prescribed at the University of Dublin and its sole constituent college, Trinity College, follows a relatively straightforward protocol in common with other universities in Ireland and with the University of Oxford in the United Kingdom, with certain of which it shares some...

 BA
as [b1], but sleeves much smaller
[b11] Reading BA as [b2], but sleeve point is rounded off
[b12] Sussex BA bag sleeve with small armhole
Masters' gowns
[m1] Oxford MA crescent cut-out at base
[m2] Cambridge MA upper point of crescent rounded
[m3] Dublin MA crescent set up sleeve giving blunt point
[m4] Wales MA lower point of crescent removed
[m5] London MA both points of crescent rounded
[m6] Victoria
Victoria University of Manchester
The Victoria University of Manchester was a university in Manchester, England. On 1 October 2004 it merged with the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology to form a new entity, "The University of Manchester".-1851 - 1951:The University was founded in 1851 as Owens College,...

 MA
both points removed
[m7] Lampeter BD as [m1] on both sides of sleeve
[m8] Leicester MA as [m6] on both sides of sleeve
[m9] Bristol
Academic dress of the University of Bristol
The academic dress prescribed by the University of Bristol is a mixture of that prescribed by Cambridge and Oxford. Bristol has chosen, for graduates, to mainly specify Oxford-style gowns and Cambridge-style hoods. Unlike many British universities, the hood itself is to be "University red", lined...

 MA
bottom of sleeve hollowed out into B shape
[m10] Basic master no cut-out, sleeve left square
[m11] Lancaster MA as [m2], but base is at an angle
[m12] Scottish MA as [m2], but with inverted-T armhole.
[m13] Liverpool MA as [m2], but sleeves shorter
[m14] Open University as [m10], but sleeves reach hip only
[m15] Warwick MA as [m2], but on both slides of sleeve
[m16] Bath MA as [m10], but one corner cut at 45o
[m17] Sussex MA as [m10], but with vertical armhole
[m18] Manchester new
Academic Dress of the University of Manchester
Academic dress of the University of Manchester describes the gowns, hoods and headwear which are prescribed by the university for its graduates. The University of Manchester was created out of the merger between UMIST and the Victoria University of Manchester in 2004...

 
base of sleeve cut into cursive M
[m19] King's London as [m10], but side of sleeve slit open for full length up to the arc
Doctoral/special gowns
[d1] Cambridge doctors wide open sleeves, similar to [b1], with the wrist turned back and held with a cord and button
[d2] Oxford doctors bell sleeves
[d3] Cambridge MusD small bell sleeves with cuff
[d4] Cambridge LL.D undress flap-collar (QC's) gown
[d5] Oxford convocation habit sleeveless habit closed with two buttons at the front
[d6] Sussex doctors MA-style sleeve with vertical slit, base hollowed into B shape
[d7] Aston narrow sleeves
[d8] Cambridge DD undress bell sleeves gathered at wrist

Hoods

Hoods in the Groves system are also divided into three different classes. Unlike the gowns and robes, these are based on the shape of the hood rather than the degrees for which they are worn.
  • [f] full shape hoods are those that have a cape
    Cape
    Cape can be used to describe any sleeveless outer garment, such as a poncho, but usually it is a long garment that covers only the back half of the wearer, fastening around the neck. They were common in medieval Europe, especially when combined with a hood in the chaperon, and have had periodic...

    , a cowl
    Cowl
    This article is about the garment used by monks and nuns. For other uses, see Cowl or Cowling .The cowl is an item of clothing consisting of a long, hooded garment with wide sleeves. Originally it may have referred simply to the hooded portion of a cloak...

     and a liripipe
    Liripipe
    A liripipe is a historical part of clothing, the tail of a hood or cloak, or a long-tailed hood, in particular a chaperon or gugel, or the peak of a shoe...

  • [s] simple shape hoods have only a cowl and a liripipe
  • [a] Aberdeen shape hoods have only a cape and a vestigial cowl


The following table reflects the Groves classification system as of 9 September 2010.
Code Shape Notes
Full shape hoods
[f1] Cambridge
Academic dress of the University of Cambridge
The University of Cambridge has a long tradition of academic dress, which it traditionally refers to as academical dress . Almost every degree which is awarded by the University has its own distinct gown in addition to having its own hood...

 
cape with square corners
[f2] Dublin
Academic dress of the University of Dublin
Academic dress prescribed at the University of Dublin and its sole constituent college, Trinity College, follows a relatively straightforward protocol in common with other universities in Ireland and with the University of Oxford in the United Kingdom, with certain of which it shares some...

 
as [f1] but the liripipe is curved at the inner corner
[f3] London
Academic dress of the University of London
Academic dress of the University of London describes the robes, gowns and hoods which are prescribed by the university for its graduates and undergraduates. The University of London was created out of a partnership between University College and Kings College, receiving its royal charter in 1836....

 
as [f1] but the cape corners are rounded
[f4] Durham
Academic dress of Durham University
The academic dress of Durham University has many similarities with that of other older British universities such as Oxford and Cambridge. Most Durham colleges insist on gowns being worn on formal occasions, including matriculation and formal halls ; exceptions are Van Mildert, St Cuthbert's Society...

 doctors
as [f7] but the liripipe is at a 45 degree angle and the cowl is slanted downwards
[f5] Oxford
Academic dress of the University of Oxford
The University of Oxford has a long tradition of academic dress, and a visitor to Oxford during term will see academic dress worn on a regular basis.- When academic dress is worn :...

 full
as [f7] but larger and with a narrow squared 'slot' between the inner liripipe edge and the cape
[f6] Durham BA as [f7] but the liripipe is a rectangle sewn on separately
[f7] Durham BCL as [f3] but the cape has a semi-circular base
[f8] Edinburgh
Academic dress of the University of Edinburgh
-Use of academic dress:Academic dress is compulsory at official ceremonial occasions, such as graduation and the installations of Rector and Chancellor. As with the other 'ancient universities' in Scotland, undergraduates at Edinburgh are entitled to wear an undergraduate gown, made of scarlet...

 DD
[f9] Glasgow as [f1] but larger and the liripipe is narrower
[f10] St Andrews
Academic dress of the University of St Andrews
Academic dress at the University of St Andrews is an important part of university life. The University of St Andrews was founded between 1410 and 1413, being the oldest of the ancient universities of Scotland and the third oldest university in the English-speaking world.-Use of academic...

 
[f11] Warham
[f12] King's London full
[f13] UMIST DSc
[f14] ICC doctors
Academic regalia in the United States
Academic regalia in the United States has a history going back to the colonial colleges era. It has been most influenced by the academic dress traditions of Europe...

 
[f15] Toronto
[f16] Strawberry Hill
Simple shape hoods
[s1] Oxford simple
[s2] Oxford Burgon
[s3] Belfast
[s4] Edinburgh
[s5] Wales
Academic dress of the University of Wales
The academic dress of the former University of Wales was designed for the first graduations in 1893, and has as its main identifying feature a faculty colour scheme involving 'shot silks'.- Gowns :...

 bachelors
[s6] Leicester bachelors
[s7] Leeds
Academic dress of the University of Leeds
The University of Leeds, like other universities in the United Kingdom and many other countries throughout the world, has its own unique system of academic and ceremonial dress for undergraduates, graduates and senior officials. As at most other universities , graduands will wear the gown, hood...

 
[s8] Sussex
[s9] Victoria
Victoria University of Manchester
The Victoria University of Manchester was a university in Manchester, England. On 1 October 2004 it merged with the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology to form a new entity, "The University of Manchester".-1851 - 1951:The University was founded in 1851 as Owens College,...

 
[s10] Aston
[s11] Glasgow Caledonian (old)
[s12] King's London simple
Other shaped hoods
[a1] CNAA
Council for National Academic Awards
The Council for National Academic Awards was a degree awarding authority in the United Kingdom from 1965 until 1992. The CNAA awarded academic degrees at polytechnics, Central Institutions and other non-university institutions such as Colleges of Higher Education until they were awarded university...

 
[a2] Leicester masters
[a3] Kent
Academic dress of the University of Kent
The Academic dress of the University of Kent is normally only worn at graduation ceremonies. In common with most British universities a graduand begins the ceremony wearing the dress of the degree to which they are being admitted...

 
[a4] East Anglia
[a5] Leicester doctors
[a6] Dundee
[a7] Aberdeen

Hats

Code Example Notes
[h1] Mortarboard  a square board attached to a skull cap, often with a button and tassel
[h2] Tudor bonnet
Tudor bonnet
A Tudor bonnet is a traditional soft round cap, with a tassel hanging from a cord encircling the puggaree of the hat...

 
a round soft hat with brim, often with a cord and tassel
[h3] John Knox
John Knox
John Knox was a Scottish clergyman and a leader of the Protestant Reformation who brought reformation to the church in Scotland. He was educated at the University of St Andrews or possibly the University of Glasgow and was ordained to the Catholic priesthood in 1536...

 cap
a square soft cap
[h4] Bishop Andrewes
Lancelot Andrewes
Lancelot Andrewes was an English bishop and scholar, who held high positions in the Church of England during the reigns of Queen Elizabeth I and King James I. During the latter's reign, Andrewes served successively as Bishop of Chichester, Ely and Winchester and oversaw the translation of the...

 cap
like [h1] but soft and with a silk tuff in lieu of button and tassel
[h5] Oxford ladies' cap a soft square cap with a flap at the back and held up with two buttons
[h6] Sussex pileus a round cylindical cap with a covered button on the top
[h7] Leicester doctoral cap a modified biretta
[h8] UEA
University of East Anglia
The University of East Anglia is a public research university based in Norwich, United Kingdom. It was established in 1963, and is a founder-member of the 1994 Group of research-intensive universities.-History:...

BA
a skull cap with upturned brim (no longer used)
[h9] UEA MA a skull cap with a triangular structure on top (no longer used)

Changes

The Groves classification system was first published in 2001. Since that time, it has been adapted and changed to include newly devised academic dress and revisions of existing schemes. The Burgon Society maintains a comprehensive listing of system shapes on its website. In addition to those included above, the current list classifies undergraduate gowns in use throughout the United Kingdom and academic headwear.
The source of this article is wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.  The text of this article is licensed under the GFDL.
 
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