Durrus and District history
Encyclopedia
Durrus
Durrus
Durrus is a village located in West Cork, six miles from Bantry, County Cork, Ireland. It is situated at the head of the Sheep's Head and Mizen Head Peninsulas. A number of public gardens have been established in the area, including 'Kilvarock' and 'Cois Abhann'...

is an area of West Cork
West Cork
West Cork refers to a geographical area in south-west Ireland, lying within Ireland's largest county, County Cork. Traditionally a popular tourist destination, the area is seen as being distinct from the more populated northern or eastern parts of the county, as well as the more urban area of...

 in Ireland
Ireland
Ireland is an island to the northwest of continental Europe. It is the third-largest island in Europe and the twentieth-largest island on Earth...

. In the early history (until 1700) land ownership changes, and there are records of marine resources and mineral workings
Mining
Mining is the extraction of valuable minerals or other geological materials from the earth, from an ore body, vein or seam. The term also includes the removal of soil. Materials recovered by mining include base metals, precious metals, iron, uranium, coal, diamonds, limestone, oil shale, rock...

, agricultural
Agriculture
Agriculture is the cultivation of animals, plants, fungi and other life forms for food, fiber, and other products used to sustain life. Agriculture was the key implement in the rise of sedentary human civilization, whereby farming of domesticated species created food surpluses that nurtured the...

 development, communications, religious practices, schools and aspects of the 1901 Census.

Prehistory to 1600

A number of Neolithic
Neolithic
The Neolithic Age, Era, or Period, or New Stone Age, was a period in the development of human technology, beginning about 9500 BC in some parts of the Middle East, and later in other parts of the world. It is traditionally considered as the last part of the Stone Age...

 (3500-1500 BC) monuments in the area at Coolcoulagha and at Dunmanus indicates that a significant pre-Celt
Celt
The Celts were a diverse group of tribal societies in Iron Age and Roman-era Europe who spoke Celtic languages.The earliest archaeological culture commonly accepted as Celtic, or rather Proto-Celtic, was the central European Hallstatt culture , named for the rich grave finds in Hallstatt, Austria....

ic population existed. Copper mines of Mount Gabriel
Mount Gabriel
Mount Gabriel is a mountain on the Mizen Peninsula situated immediately to the north of the town of Schull, in West Cork, Ireland.Mt. Gabriel is 407m high and is the highest eminence in the coastal zone south and east of Bantry Bay. A roadway serving the radar installations on the summit is open...

 (1700-1500 BC) and Derrycarhoon suggest that the area was integrated into an early Europe
Europe
Europe is, by convention, one of the world's seven continents. Comprising the westernmost peninsula of Eurasia, Europe is generally 'divided' from Asia to its east by the watershed divides of the Ural and Caucasus Mountains, the Ural River, the Caspian and Black Seas, and the waterways connecting...

an economy. Later the Celt
Celt
The Celts were a diverse group of tribal societies in Iron Age and Roman-era Europe who spoke Celtic languages.The earliest archaeological culture commonly accepted as Celtic, or rather Proto-Celtic, was the central European Hallstatt culture , named for the rich grave finds in Hallstatt, Austria....

s probably became an overlay on the local population who adopted their language and culture.
The Annals of Innisfallen state that St. Ciarán of Cape Clear
Cape Clear
Cape Clear may refer to:* Cape Clear * Cape Clear Island, on the southern coast of Ireland.* Cape Clear, Victoria, a town in Australia...

 came back to his native place from Rome
Rome
Rome is the capital of Italy and the country's largest and most populated city and comune, with over 2.7 million residents in . The city is located in the central-western portion of the Italian Peninsula, on the Tiber River within the Lazio region of Italy.Rome's history spans two and a half...

 in 402 A.D. and introduced Christianity
Christianity
Christianity is a monotheistic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus as presented in canonical gospels and other New Testament writings...

 to the South West. The new religion became firmly established and intermingled with old practices. By the 6th century a number of St.Finbarr's disciples including Cairne, Fiontan, and Eothail (who lived at Ard Eochill near Kilcrohane
Kilcrohane
Kilcrohane is a village in County Cork, Ireland. The last coastal village on the Sheep's Head Peninsula after Durrus and Ahakista, it lies under the 'Shadow of Seefin' - the area's highest mountain and overlooking Dunmanus Bay...

) were living in Muintir Bhaire.
In the 6th and 7th century the family now known as the O'Mahonys from the Eoghanach in North Munster arrived in the area. By the 8th century they were well settled in Muintir Bhaire.

The McCarthys arrived in the 12th century also from The Eoghanach. In 1185 they secured lands of the O'Mahonys but remained on good terms with them. Tadhg Rua McCarthy built a castle at Scart
SCART
SCART is a French-originated standard and associated 21-pin connector for connecting audio-visual equipment together...

 now demolished and he was called Tadhg Rua na Scairte and the family later built Cul na Long, the fortified castle some one mile (1.6 km) outside Durrus
Durrus
Durrus is a village located in West Cork, six miles from Bantry, County Cork, Ireland. It is situated at the head of the Sheep's Head and Mizen Head Peninsulas. A number of public gardens have been established in the area, including 'Kilvarock' and 'Cois Abhann'...

. The O'Donovans also arrived in the 12th century and secured some of the O'Mahony lands.
By 1190 the ‘grey foreigners’ (Normans), had reached as far west as Durrus
Durrus
Durrus is a village located in West Cork, six miles from Bantry, County Cork, Ireland. It is situated at the head of the Sheep's Head and Mizen Head Peninsulas. A number of public gardens have been established in the area, including 'Kilvarock' and 'Cois Abhann'...

 but were repulsed by the Desmumu (people of South Munster).

1375 Herring Fishery

From this time onwards the herring fishery in the South West was well established and tribute was paid by the French
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...

 and Iberian
Iberian Peninsula
The Iberian Peninsula , sometimes called Iberia, is located in the extreme southwest of Europe and includes the modern-day sovereign states of Spain, Portugal and Andorra, as well as the British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar...

 fleets to the O'Mahony, O'Driscoll and McCarthy families. This conferred on them the right to fish and also to build on shore bases to salt
Salt
In chemistry, salts are ionic compounds that result from the neutralization reaction of an acid and a base. They are composed of cations and anions so that the product is electrically neutral...

 their catch, as herring had to be processed within 24 hours. This prosperity gave rise to significant building of religious and tower houses in the overall area, in the first half of the 15th century. The O'Mahonys alone built twelve castles of which a number at Rossmore, Dunbeacon and Ballydevlin are in the area. They have minimal defence features suggesting this was a time of peace and prosperity

An inventory of property belonging to Gill Abbey, of Cork
Cork (city)
Cork is the second largest city in the Republic of Ireland and the island of Ireland's third most populous city. It is the principal city and administrative centre of County Cork and the largest city in the province of Munster. Cork has a population of 119,418, while the addition of the suburban...

 was conducted in 1541.
It included under Durruske, the vicarage of Durrus which also belonged to St. Catherine's in Waterford
Waterford
Waterford is a city in the South-East Region of Ireland. It is the oldest city in the country and fifth largest by population. Waterford City Council is the local government authority for the city and its immediate hinterland...

.

Parish Boundaries

The Boundary between the boundaries of Bantry
Bantry
Bantry is a town on the coast of County Cork, Ireland. It lies on the N71 national secondary road at the head of Bantry Bay, a deep-water gulf extending for 30 km to the west...

 and Carbery coincided with those of Clann Taidhg Ruaidh and McCarthy's lands. The parts in Durrus Barony reaching from the site of Bantry Abbey along the Bay to Rooska, was in the territory of O'Sullivans of Bantry
Bantry
Bantry is a town on the coast of County Cork, Ireland. It lies on the N71 national secondary road at the head of Bantry Bay, a deep-water gulf extending for 30 km to the west...

. Clann Taidhg Ruaidh had no direct access to Bantry Bay
Bantry Bay
Bantry Bay is a bay located in County Cork, southwest Ireland. The bay runs approximately from northeast to southwest into the Atlantic Ocean. It is approximately 3-to-4 km wide at the head and wide at the entrance....

, as the only townland
Townland
A townland or bally is a small geographical division of land used in Ireland. The townland system is of Gaelic origin—most townlands are believed to pre-date the Norman invasion and most have names derived from the Irish language...

 touching it in both Carbery, Bantry
Bantry
Bantry is a town on the coast of County Cork, Ireland. It lies on the N71 national secondary road at the head of Bantry Bay, a deep-water gulf extending for 30 km to the west...

 and Durrus
Durrus
Durrus is a village located in West Cork, six miles from Bantry, County Cork, Ireland. It is situated at the head of the Sheep's Head and Mizen Head Peninsulas. A number of public gardens have been established in the area, including 'Kilvarock' and 'Cois Abhann'...

 Parish was Killoveenogue. This was the property of Philip O'Sullivan in 1641. The territory of Clann Tadgh Ruaidh did not extend to the South side of Durrus Parish of Four Mile Water River. Here the townlands of Coolcoulaghta, formerly Coorcoulaghta, Dromreagh, and Ballycommane. The first two formed part of the Taidhg O'Mahony lands, and the Earl of Cork
Earl of Cork
Earl of the County of Cork, usually shortened to Earl of Cork, is a title in the Peerage of Ireland. It was created in 1620 for the Anglo-Irish politician Richard Boyle, 1st Baron Boyle...

 acquired Dromreagh prior to 1641. Ballycommane was part of the lands of the Clann Diarmada (McCarthy of Cloghane) which were confiscated after the attainder of Domnall MacCormaic was acquired by Sir Cormac Mac Tadgh of Blarney
Blarney
Blarney is a town and townland in County Cork, Ireland. It lies north-west of Cork and is famed as the site of Blarney Castle, home of the legendary Blarney Stone.-Tourism:Blarney town is a major tourist attraction in County Cork...

, who later mortgaged it to Sir Walter Coppinger. The Clann Tadgh Ruaidh occupied the remainder of the old Durrus Parish, as far as the borders of the Kilcrohane Parish, which was the territory of the O'Dalys. From around the 17th century, the main focus of the area had shifted from Scart on the present Cork-Bantry Road and the Dunmanus Bay
Dunmanus Bay
Dunmanus Bay is a bay in County Cork, Ireland. The bay lies between Mizen Head to the south and Bantry Bay to the north with the small village of Durrus at the head of the bay. The bay is out of the main tidal flow with no significant rivers flowing into it and is little frequented by vessels. On...

 area, to the Head of Dunmanus Bay. Canon Cahalane, Parish Priest 1955-1958, of Bantry, believed hat there may have been a ‘lost parish’, ‘Inis Cuinge’ between the present parishes of Durrus
Durrus
Durrus is a village located in West Cork, six miles from Bantry, County Cork, Ireland. It is situated at the head of the Sheep's Head and Mizen Head Peninsulas. A number of public gardens have been established in the area, including 'Kilvarock' and 'Cois Abhann'...

 and Bantry
Bantry
Bantry is a town on the coast of County Cork, Ireland. It lies on the N71 national secondary road at the head of Bantry Bay, a deep-water gulf extending for 30 km to the west...

 and that Whiddy Island
Whiddy Island
Whiddy Island is an island near the head of Bantry Bay, Ireland. It is approximately long and wide. The topography comprises gently-rolling glacial till, with relatively fertile soil...

 may have been part of it. It might be noted that an inquisition was held in 1731 which said that Aengus O'Daly of Ballyroon, Donnell O'Daly of Rossnacaigreagh and Teigh O'Daly of Mulanaskish Ahakista
Ahakista
Ahakista is located approximately half way along the Sheep's Head peninsula between Durrus and Kilcrohane in west Cork, Ireland. It is a wooded coastal village with a deep and sheltered harbour.-Archaeology :...

 originally held their lands from the Carews, and from the 1331 escheat of the Carew lands, they became tenants of the crown

Hondius Map 1591

In Hondius
Hondius
Hondius can refer to two possibly unrelated families of engravers and cartographers, who both moved from Flanders to the Dutch Republic in the 1590s:* Amsterdam family originating from Ghent:** Jodocus Hondius ** Jodocus Hondius II Hondius can refer to two possibly unrelated families of engravers...

 map of 1591 the peninsulas of the South West appear, the Durrus river is named Fl. Bellemire and is shown flowing into Dunmanus Bay
Dunmanus Bay
Dunmanus Bay is a bay in County Cork, Ireland. The bay lies between Mizen Head to the south and Bantry Bay to the north with the small village of Durrus at the head of the bay. The bay is out of the main tidal flow with no significant rivers flowing into it and is little frequented by vessels. On...

. This may in fact be the Clashadoo River which flows past Cul na Long, it was called the Moire (Maighre) so it is possible the Bellemire is Beal Atha Maighre, the ford of the Moire.

Pilchard Fishery c.1600-1750

There is historical evidence to document the Pilchard industry in the South West Coast from Ardmore
Ardmore
Ardmore comes from the or the , meaning "great height", and may refer to:-Places:Canada:*Ardmore, Alberta*Ardmore Beach, a community in Tiny, OntarioIreland:*Ardmore, County Waterford, Republic of Ireland*Ardmore, County Londonderry, Northern Ireland...

, County Waterford
County Waterford
*Abbeyside, Affane, Aglish, Annestown, An Rinn, Ardmore*Ballinacourty, Ballinameela, Ballinamult, Ballinroad, Ballybeg, Ballybricken, Ballyduff Lower, Ballyduff Upper, Ballydurn, Ballygunner, Ballylaneen, Ballymacarbry, Ballymacart, Ballynaneashagh, Ballysaggart, Ballytruckle, Bilberry, Bunmahon,...

, to Ballinskelligs
Ballinskelligs
Baile an Sceilg , anglicised as Ballinskelligs, is a Gaeltacht village in the south-west of the Iveragh peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland....

 in County Kerry
County Kerry
Kerry means the "people of Ciar" which was the name of the pre-Gaelic tribe who lived in part of the present county. The legendary founder of the tribe was Ciar, son of Fergus mac Róich. In Old Irish "Ciar" meant black or dark brown, and the word continues in use in modern Irish as an adjective...

, from approximately 1600 to about 1750. This was an important industry with Bantry
Bantry
Bantry is a town on the coast of County Cork, Ireland. It lies on the N71 national secondary road at the head of Bantry Bay, a deep-water gulf extending for 30 km to the west...

 as the primary centre, together with outlying curing station called “Pallices” of which there were a number in Dunmanus and Bantry Bay areas. Fish was caught by means of the seine net, which together with the curing at the fish pallices had been introduced by English Settlers in the period.

Battle of Kinsale and Carew's Assault on Dunboy Castle 1602/Dunmanus Castle

The army of Carew
Carew
Carew may refer to:People*Baron Carew, a title in the British peerage*Sir Alexander Carew, 2nd Baronet , British Member of Parliament involved in the English Civil War*Ashley Carew , English-Barbadian football player...

 embarked at Kilevanoge to lay siege to Dunboy Castle
Dunboy Castle
Dunboy Castle was a stronghold of the O'Sullivan Bere, a Gaelic clan leader and 'Chief of Dunboy'. The castle is located on the Beara Peninsula in south-west Ireland near the town of Castletownbere and was built to guard and defend the harbour of Berehaven...

 on the opposite shore. Later on Carew and Mountjoy
Mountjoy
Mountjoy may refer to:* Brockagh , a hamlet in County Tyrone in present-day Northern Ireland* Mountjoy Castle, a castle in Magheralamfield, County Tyrone* Mountjoy Prison, a closed prison in County Dublin, Ireland opened in 1850...

 employed the services of Aongus O Dalaigh of Kilcrohane
Kilcrohane
Kilcrohane is a village in County Cork, Ireland. The last coastal village on the Sheep's Head Peninsula after Durrus and Ahakista, it lies under the 'Shadow of Seefin' - the area's highest mountain and overlooking Dunmanus Bay...

 the prime satirist of the times to compose a satire on 'The Tribes of Ireland'. He was stabbed in 1617 by one of the O'Meaghers of Tipperary
Tipperary
Tipperary is a town and a civil parish in South Tipperary in Ireland. Its population was 4,415 at the 2006 census. It is also an ecclesiastical parish in the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Cashel and Emly, and is in the historical barony of Clanwilliam....

 as a result of one of his satires.

After the battle of Kinsale the O'Mahony family garrisoned Dunmanus castle and on the 4th June 1602 one of Carew's officers accompanied by one of Sir Owen O'Sullivan's sons raided the castle and kept same killing four of the guard. The O'Mahonys regained the castle but in July Captain Robert Harvey recovered it, but the previous March the under aged ward of Carew Donal O'Mahony succeeded as chief on his brother's death. As a minor and not taking part in the rising his lands were safe from forfeiture and the O'Mahonys continued to hold the castle. However, following the 1641 rising and the raid on Sir William Hull's fish palace involving the O'Mahonys of Dunmanus the lands comprising 1594 acres (6.5 km²) were confiscated, taking effect in 1649.

Garrison 1620-1630s Four Mile Water

There was a garrison in Four Mile Water as well as other centres in the region ie Bantry 57 soldiers, Crookhaven
Crookhaven
Crookhaven is a village in County Cork, Ireland, on the most southwestern tip of Ireland. A winter population of about forty swells in the summer to about four hundred with the occupants of the many holiday homes arriving.-History:...

. Cul na Long Castle was built between 1610 and 1640 by Teige na Muclagh McCarthy in a transitional Irish-Jacobean style. Following the rising of 1641 the lands of McCarthy Muclagh belonging to Teig's sons Teige and Owen including Cul na Long were confiscated. In Paddy O' Keeffe's (Bantry antiquarian) opinion it was a unique example of the work of craftsmen who transferred the castle-monastic ornamentation to Cul na Long. He attempted unsuccessfully to have it taken into the care of the Office of Public Works
Office of Public Works
The Office of Public Works is a State Agency of the Department of Finance in the Republic of Ireland...

. The property was granted to a Colonel Reide after 1641. It is believed that Lieutenant Nathaniel Evanson (he received 2400 acres (9.7 km²) at Castle Donovan after the 1641 rebellion) moved to Cul na Long after 1660, as Four Mile Water Castle. The adjoining Durrus Court was known as Brookfield in 1823 and the residence of Evanson, Magistrate. It came into the control of Lord Bandon by purchase from the Evansons by Judge Bernard before 1731. The last direct descendant of the McCarthy Muclaghs died in a cottage in Dunbeacon in 1795. Fr. Dan McCarthy, P.P. of Durrus in 1793 and a classical scholar (he was interpreter between General Dalrymple and French Officer Prosseau in 1796) was a McCarthy Muclagh. There is still a headland near Dunbeacon Castle known as Muckla Point.

Evansons

In Bishop Dive Downes tour 1699, he refers to Vicar Thomas Holmes of Kilmacomoge preaching every fourth Sunday at Captain Evanson's house at Four Mile Water. Nathaniel Evanson the elder had three children, a son with no issue, a daughter who married a Beamish and a son Charles who married Susan Arnap in 1688. Their eldest son was Nathaniel married Mary Alleyn in 1724. Their grandson Nathaniel was at Four Mile Water in the 1790s. He married Mary Townsend Baldwin in 1784 and their children were Alleyn who was ordained and Tonson (Richard) who built Friendly Cove. He married Melian Donovan in 1812 who died childless and then Mary Beamish in 1816. They had no sons and Friendly Cove passed to William Beamish Morris who married their daughter Catherine. In Pigot's Directory of 1824 Nathaniel Evanson and Richard Evansonis are at Four Mile Water Nathaniel Evanson, Sea Lodge, Cork
Cork (city)
Cork is the second largest city in the Republic of Ireland and the island of Ireland's third most populous city. It is the principal city and administrative centre of County Cork and the largest city in the province of Munster. Cork has a population of 119,418, while the addition of the suburban...

 died on 1849 and the Rev. Alleyn Evanson died in 1853. In Slaters Directory of 1846 Allen Evanson lives at the Court, Richard Tonson Evanson at Friendly Cove Richard Tomson Evanson Jnr. at Ardgoina. There is no reference to them in Thom's 1862 Directory. There are two references to Evansons of Brookfield, Cork in the King's Inns
King's Inns
The Honorable Society of King's Inns , is the institution which controls the entry of barristers-at-law into the justice system of Ireland...

 Admission rolls for the early 19th. Century. The Rev. A. Evanson sat on a committee in Bantry in 1824 to petition against the withdrawal of the linen bounty.

O'Donovan's

One of the O'Donovan's of Clann Lochlainn received land in fee simple at Ardahill, Kilcrohane
Kilcrohane
Kilcrohane is a village in County Cork, Ireland. The last coastal village on the Sheep's Head Peninsula after Durrus and Ahakista, it lies under the 'Shadow of Seefin' - the area's highest mountain and overlooking Dunmanus Bay...

 but there is now no trace of his residence. Another O'Donovan of Clann Cathail held land of Congreve, Mount Congreve near Waterford
Waterford
Waterford is a city in the South-East Region of Ireland. It is the oldest city in the country and fifth largest by population. Waterford City Council is the local government authority for the city and its immediate hinterland...

 and their house was at Fort Lodge (O'Donovan's Cove) near Ahakista. In the 18th and 19th centuries families in West Cork
West Cork
West Cork refers to a geographical area in south-west Ireland, lying within Ireland's largest county, County Cork. Traditionally a popular tourist destination, the area is seen as being distinct from the more populated northern or eastern parts of the county, as well as the more urban area of...

 and South Kerry
South Kerry
South Kerry or Kerry South may refer to:* The southern part of County Kerry, in Ireland* South Kerry GAA, a Gaelic football Divisional Team in County Kerry* South Kerry , former UK Parliament constituency...

 such as the O'Donovans, the O'Leary, the O'Sullivans, the Sweeneys, McCarthys managed to acquire leasehold interests as middlemen and had close ties of marriage with each other. Richard O'Donovan, O'Donovan's Cove is listed in Pigot's Directory
Pigot's Directory
Pigot's Directory was a major directory starting in 1814.Pigot's Directories covered the period before official Civil Registration began and are a valuable source of information regarding all major professions, nobility, gentry, clergy, trades and occupations including taverns and public houses and...

 of 1824 and at Fort Lodge in Slater of 1846 as well as one of Co. Cork's property owners in 187. at Carrigboy. Daniel O'Donovan of Ahakista cottage (now demolished) Slater 1862 is a Magistrate
Magistrate
A magistrate is an officer of the state; in modern usage the term usually refers to a judge or prosecutor. This was not always the case; in ancient Rome, a magistratus was one of the highest government officers and possessed both judicial and executive powers. Today, in common law systems, a...

. Tim O'Donovan appears in Thoms 1862 at O'Donovan's Cove.

Sir William Petty's Census, 1659

This was compiled for the purpose of compiling a tax base which ultimately became a heart tax. Described as 'Part of Dunisse Parish.'

A table sets out the breakdown of land ownership and the total area is 8674 acres (35.1 km²), with 5646 acres (22.8 km²) profitable, 3078 acres (12.5 km²) unprofitable. This document is the Down Survey
Down Survey
The Down Survey, also known as the Civil Survey, refers to the mapping of Ireland carried out by William Petty, English scientist in 1655 and 1656....

, completed 1656 and published 1685 as part of Hiberniae Delineatio in the National Library
National library
A national library is a library specifically established by the government of a country to serve as the preeminent repository of information for that country. Unlike public libraries, these rarely allow citizens to borrow books...

 Ms 714
Petty, in 1687 believed that land values were substantially higher than in 1641 but the population had not recovered to its level before that time.

Naval Battle Bantry Bay 1689

There was a major Navel engagement in Bantry Bay on the 1 May 1689 involving the English and French fleets, the French are believed to have won a marginal victory. The English had 22 vessels and lost 96 killed 269 wounded, the French fleet was 28 vessels and they lost 40 killed 93 wounded.

Rapparees 1691

In August 1691 Major Fenwick killed several rapparee
Rapparee
Rapparees were Irish guerrilla fighters who operated on the Jacobite side during the 1690s Williamite war in Ireland. Subsequently the name was also given to bandits and highwaymen in Ireland - many former guerrillas having turned to crime after the war was over...

s near Macroom and several others were slain at 'Minterbarra.'
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