Chokha
Encyclopedia
A chokha is part of the traditional male dress of the peoples of the Caucasus. It has been in wide use among Georgians
from the 9th century until 1920s, The trend of Chokha in Georgians
still continue to occur as they see it as their proud cultural heritage they inherit till this day. France may be known for its berets, and Spain for its mantillas, but few national costumes are linked to as strong a sense of national pride as Georgia’s Chokhas. Nearly every Georgian household has photos of ancestors adorned in chokhas. Once a symbol of resistance to Bolshevik Russia’s 1921 takeover of an independent Georgia, the chokha has now come to represent a Georgia reborn, a country that revels in its cultural individuality. Increasingly worn by Georgian men at weddings and official functions, the eye-catching coat is finally experiencing a comeback in Georgia. The Chokha revival is taking place in parallel with a resurgence of interest in other mainstays of Georgian culture – the Georgian Orthodox Church, Georgian folk dancing, and choral singing. “When you love your Chokha, you love your country. When you love your country, you love your traditions! The Chokha emphasizes I am a Georgian. It is a spiritual costume!” a leader of the All-Georgia Chokha Society said. The Chokha is truely a strong representation of Georgian national pride. Worn by Georgians
for more than a thousand years, the high-necked wool coat was rarely seen during Soviet rule, but now again, for many it symbolises the country's proud past and resistance to its occupation.
Georgian President Mikheil Saakashvili
ordered high-ranking Georgian officials working abroad to present themselves in national costumes at the official meetings. So, in the very center of Europe, in the 21st century, among the elegant ladies and gentlemen classic suits, one will be surprised to find strangely dressed men in their Chokhas, and daggers around the waist.
- There are Four types of Chokha: Kartl-Kakheti chokha (Kartli and Kakheti are eastern Georgian provinces), Khevsur Chokha (mainly in Mtskheta-mtianeti province of Georgia), Adjarian chokha (mainly found in western Georgia provinces such as Adjara and Guria and also used to be used in Lazona that is now part of republic of Turkey, it is shown in fourth picture on this page) and General Caucasian chokha which most likely to Kartl-Kakheti chokha and is little longer version of it. Caucasian
Chokha originated in Caucasus
in mountainous sites of Georgia, though the word "Chokha" isn't in Georgian language
but from Persian
. Originally the cloth in Georgia was referred as Talavari but later on after Persian invasions in Georgia, Persians called Georgian national dress Chokha (meaning fabricly made outfit). The name of the cloth mostly known as "chokha", the Russians who came to the Caucasus
through Circassia
called it "Cherkeska" (meaning Circassian dress), and the Cossacks adopted it as their national cloth. In Circassian
Language Chokha is known as "Shwakh-Tsia"" which means "covers the horseman" or simply "Tsia" which means "from fabric" and "Fasha" which means "Fits you". The authentic Caucasian Chokha became instantly popular in entire Caucasus, it derived form caucasus and has been commonly used in northern and eastern slopes of it. In earlier Georgian records Chokha was mostly referred as Talavari
- Circassian authentic outfit is shown in third photo on this page .
In Georgia, the Black chokha was reserved to the "Orden of Chokhosani" who represented the elite society of the citizens. These were people with special dedications such as: Great generals, heroes or some of the famous poets and the people who had done some big service to the country. Not even all of Lords were allowed in "Chokhosani Orden" and those who did proudly represented this rank in their Gerbs.
chokha is sewn of thick fabric and is tight on the waist and wide on the bottom. In some parts of the Caucasus there are also female chokhas.
In the late 19th century and early 20th century there were three types of chokhas: the Khevsur chokha, the Kartl-Kakheti
chokha and general Caucasian
chokha.
province of Georgia in the Greater Caucasus
mountains. Khevsur chokha is considered to be the closest to the medieval version of chokha. It is mostly short with trapezoid
shapes. The front side of the chokha has rich decorations and cuts on the sides, which extend to the waist. The Khevsur chokha has rich decorations made up of cross
es and icon
s.
-like shapes on the chest exposing the inner cloth called arkhalukhi. The bottom sides usually had cuts on the sides and people wore it usually without belts
. The Kartli-Kakheti chokha has long sleeves and mostly is black
, dark red
and blue
.
s sewn horizontally across both sides of the chest. In most cases different decorations are used to fill the bullet spaces. In the Russian language, chokha is called cherkeska and this type of chokha has black leather belts decorated with silver pieces.
The general Caucasian chokha is mostly made of black, grey, white, blue, red or brown fabric. Among Azeris, it is considered part of the traditional outfit for the performers of mugham
, an Azeri folk music genre. A person's age defined the colour of the chokha he would wear.
Generally, the chokha outfit includes a khanjali (the sword), the akhalukhi (a shirt worn underneath the chokha), the masrebi (the bullets), and the kabalakhi (a hood, separate from the robe) or nabdis kudi (a tall fur hat).
Georgians
The Georgians are an ethnic group that have originated in Georgia, where they constitute a majority of the population. Large Georgian communities are also present throughout Russia, European Union, United States, and South America....
from the 9th century until 1920s, The trend of Chokha in Georgians
Georgians
The Georgians are an ethnic group that have originated in Georgia, where they constitute a majority of the population. Large Georgian communities are also present throughout Russia, European Union, United States, and South America....
still continue to occur as they see it as their proud cultural heritage they inherit till this day. France may be known for its berets, and Spain for its mantillas, but few national costumes are linked to as strong a sense of national pride as Georgia’s Chokhas. Nearly every Georgian household has photos of ancestors adorned in chokhas. Once a symbol of resistance to Bolshevik Russia’s 1921 takeover of an independent Georgia, the chokha has now come to represent a Georgia reborn, a country that revels in its cultural individuality. Increasingly worn by Georgian men at weddings and official functions, the eye-catching coat is finally experiencing a comeback in Georgia. The Chokha revival is taking place in parallel with a resurgence of interest in other mainstays of Georgian culture – the Georgian Orthodox Church, Georgian folk dancing, and choral singing. “When you love your Chokha, you love your country. When you love your country, you love your traditions! The Chokha emphasizes I am a Georgian. It is a spiritual costume!” a leader of the All-Georgia Chokha Society said. The Chokha is truely a strong representation of Georgian national pride. Worn by Georgians
Georgians
The Georgians are an ethnic group that have originated in Georgia, where they constitute a majority of the population. Large Georgian communities are also present throughout Russia, European Union, United States, and South America....
for more than a thousand years, the high-necked wool coat was rarely seen during Soviet rule, but now again, for many it symbolises the country's proud past and resistance to its occupation.
Georgian President Mikheil Saakashvili
Mikheil Saakashvili
Mikheil Saakashvili is a Georgian politician, the third and current President of Georgia and leader of the United National Movement Party.Involved in the national politics since 1995, Saakashvili became president on 25 January 2004 after President Eduard Shevardnadze resigned in a November 2003...
ordered high-ranking Georgian officials working abroad to present themselves in national costumes at the official meetings. So, in the very center of Europe, in the 21st century, among the elegant ladies and gentlemen classic suits, one will be surprised to find strangely dressed men in their Chokhas, and daggers around the waist.
- There are Four types of Chokha: Kartl-Kakheti chokha (Kartli and Kakheti are eastern Georgian provinces), Khevsur Chokha (mainly in Mtskheta-mtianeti province of Georgia), Adjarian chokha (mainly found in western Georgia provinces such as Adjara and Guria and also used to be used in Lazona that is now part of republic of Turkey, it is shown in fourth picture on this page) and General Caucasian chokha which most likely to Kartl-Kakheti chokha and is little longer version of it. Caucasian
Caucasian peoples
This article deals with the various ethnic groups inhabiting the Caucasus region. There are more than50 ethnic groups living in the region.-Peoples speaking Caucasian languages:...
Chokha originated in Caucasus
Caucasus
The Caucasus, also Caucas or Caucasia , is a geopolitical region at the border of Europe and Asia, and situated between the Black and the Caspian sea...
in mountainous sites of Georgia, though the word "Chokha" isn't in Georgian language
Georgian language
Georgian is the native language of the Georgians and the official language of Georgia, a country in the Caucasus.Georgian is the primary language of about 4 million people in Georgia itself, and of another 500,000 abroad...
but from Persian
Persian language
Persian is an Iranian language within the Indo-Iranian branch of the Indo-European languages. It is primarily spoken in Iran, Afghanistan, Tajikistan and countries which historically came under Persian influence...
. Originally the cloth in Georgia was referred as Talavari but later on after Persian invasions in Georgia, Persians called Georgian national dress Chokha (meaning fabricly made outfit). The name of the cloth mostly known as "chokha", the Russians who came to the Caucasus
Caucasus
The Caucasus, also Caucas or Caucasia , is a geopolitical region at the border of Europe and Asia, and situated between the Black and the Caspian sea...
through Circassia
Circassia
Circassia was an independent mountainous country located in the Caucasus region of Eurasia and was the largest and most important country in the Caucasus. Circassia was located at the crossroads of Western Asia and Eastern Europe between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea...
called it "Cherkeska" (meaning Circassian dress), and the Cossacks adopted it as their national cloth. In Circassian
Northwest Caucasian languages
The Northwest Caucasian languages, also called Abkhazo-Adyghean, or sometimes Pontic as opposed to Caspian for the Northeast Caucasian languages, are a group of languages spoken in the Caucasus region, chiefly in Russia , the disputed territory of Abkhazia, and Turkey, with smaller communities...
Language Chokha is known as "Shwakh-Tsia"" which means "covers the horseman" or simply "Tsia" which means "from fabric" and "Fasha" which means "Fits you". The authentic Caucasian Chokha became instantly popular in entire Caucasus, it derived form caucasus and has been commonly used in northern and eastern slopes of it. In earlier Georgian records Chokha was mostly referred as Talavari
- Circassian authentic outfit is shown in third photo on this page .
In Georgia, the Black chokha was reserved to the "Orden of Chokhosani" who represented the elite society of the citizens. These were people with special dedications such as: Great generals, heroes or some of the famous poets and the people who had done some big service to the country. Not even all of Lords were allowed in "Chokhosani Orden" and those who did proudly represented this rank in their Gerbs.
chokha is sewn of thick fabric and is tight on the waist and wide on the bottom. In some parts of the Caucasus there are also female chokhas.
In the late 19th century and early 20th century there were three types of chokhas: the Khevsur chokha, the Kartl-Kakheti
Kartl-Kakheti
The Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti was created in 1762 by the unification of two eastern Georgian kingdoms, which had existed independently since the disintegration of the united Georgian Kingdom in the 15th century....
chokha and general Caucasian
Caucasus
The Caucasus, also Caucas or Caucasia , is a geopolitical region at the border of Europe and Asia, and situated between the Black and the Caspian sea...
chokha.
Khevsur chokha
The Khevsur chokha was worn in the KhevsuretiKhevsureti
Khevsureti/Khevsuria is a historical-ethnographic region in eastern Georgia. They are the branch of Kartvelian people located along both the northern and southern slopes of the Great Caucasus...
province of Georgia in the Greater Caucasus
Greater Caucasus
Greater Caucasus , sometimes translated as "Caucasus Major", "Big Caucasus" or "Large Caucasus") is the major mountain range of the Caucasus Mountains....
mountains. Khevsur chokha is considered to be the closest to the medieval version of chokha. It is mostly short with trapezoid
Trapezoid
In Euclidean geometry, a convex quadrilateral with one pair of parallel sides is referred to as a trapezoid in American English and as a trapezium in English outside North America. A trapezoid with vertices ABCD is denoted...
shapes. The front side of the chokha has rich decorations and cuts on the sides, which extend to the waist. The Khevsur chokha has rich decorations made up of cross
Cross
A cross is a geometrical figure consisting of two lines or bars perpendicular to each other, dividing one or two of the lines in half. The lines usually run vertically and horizontally; if they run obliquely, the design is technically termed a saltire, although the arms of a saltire need not meet...
es and icon
Icon
An icon is a religious work of art, most commonly a painting, from Eastern Christianity and in certain Eastern Catholic churches...
s.
Kartl-Kakheti chokha
The Kartl-Kakheti chokha is longer than the Khevsur chokha and has triangleTriangle
A triangle is one of the basic shapes of geometry: a polygon with three corners or vertices and three sides or edges which are line segments. A triangle with vertices A, B, and C is denoted ....
-like shapes on the chest exposing the inner cloth called arkhalukhi. The bottom sides usually had cuts on the sides and people wore it usually without belts
Belt (clothing)
A belt is a flexible band or strap, typically made of leather or heavy cloth, and worn around the waist. A belt supports trousers or other articles of clothing.-History:...
. The Kartli-Kakheti chokha has long sleeves and mostly is black
Black
Black is the color of objects that do not emit or reflect light in any part of the visible spectrum; they absorb all such frequencies of light...
, dark red
Red
Red is any of a number of similar colors evoked by light consisting predominantly of the longest wavelengths of light discernible by the human eye, in the wavelength range of roughly 630–740 nm. Longer wavelengths than this are called infrared , and cannot be seen by the naked eye...
and blue
Blue
Blue is a colour, the perception of which is evoked by light having a spectrum dominated by energy with a wavelength of roughly 440–490 nm. It is considered one of the additive primary colours. On the HSV Colour Wheel, the complement of blue is yellow; that is, a colour corresponding to an equal...
.
General Caucasian chokha
The general Caucasian chokha shares similarities with the Kartl-Kakheti version, with the exception of having bandolierBandolier
A bandolier or a bandoleer is a pocketed belt for holding ammunition. It was usually slung over the chest. In its original form, it was common issue to soldiers from the 16th to 18th centuries. This was very useful for quickly reloading a musket....
s sewn horizontally across both sides of the chest. In most cases different decorations are used to fill the bullet spaces. In the Russian language, chokha is called cherkeska and this type of chokha has black leather belts decorated with silver pieces.
The general Caucasian chokha is mostly made of black, grey, white, blue, red or brown fabric. Among Azeris, it is considered part of the traditional outfit for the performers of mugham
Mugham
Mugam also known as Azerbaijani Mugham is one of the many folk musical compositions from Azerbaijan, contrast with Tasnif, Ashugs. Mugam draws on Iranian-Arabic-Turkish Maqam....
, an Azeri folk music genre. A person's age defined the colour of the chokha he would wear.
Generally, the chokha outfit includes a khanjali (the sword), the akhalukhi (a shirt worn underneath the chokha), the masrebi (the bullets), and the kabalakhi (a hood, separate from the robe) or nabdis kudi (a tall fur hat).
External links
- Ruso Strelkova (August 31, 2007). To Wear or not to Wear (a Chokha)? That is the Question. Georgia Today Issue #372, 31.08.07-06.09.07.