Rocky Point, Montana (Ghost Town)
Encyclopedia
The Rocky Point ghost town
Ghost town
A ghost town is an abandoned town or city. A town often becomes a ghost town because the economic activity that supported it has failed, or due to natural or human-caused disasters such as floods, government actions, uncontrolled lawlessness, war, or nuclear disasters...

 in the Missouri Breaks of Montana is not be confused with the currently viable and modern Montana community of Rocky Point, Montana
Rocky Point
Rocky Point may refer to:in Australia:*Rocky Point, New South Wales*Rocky Point, Queensland in Canada:*Rocky Point Park in Port Moody, British Columbiain Mexico:...

 on the west shore of Flathead Lake
Flathead Lake
Flathead Lake is the largest natural freshwater lake in the western part of the contiguous United States. With a surface area of between and , it is slightly larger than Lake Tahoe. The lake is a remnant of the ancient inland sea, Lake Missoula of the era of the last interglacial. Flathead Lake...

 in Lake County
Lake County, Montana
-National protected areas:*Flathead National Forest *National Bison Range *Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge*Pablo National Wildlife Refuge*Swan River National Wildlife Refuge-Demographics:...

.


The historic town of Rocky Point was on the south side of the Missouri River
Missouri River
The Missouri River flows through the central United States, and is a tributary of the Mississippi River. It is the longest river in North America and drains the third largest area, though only the thirteenth largest by discharge. The Missouri's watershed encompasses most of the American Great...

 in Fergus County, Montana
Fergus County, Montana
-National protected areas:* Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge * Lewis and Clark National Forest * Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument -Demographics:...

 in the Missouri Breaks. 47°36′22.54"N 108°26′45.72"W (47.606272°, -108.446048°)(latitude 47.606272°, longitude -108.446048°) Rocky Point was a ford and crossing point on the Missouri River. In prehistoric times American bison
Buffalo
-Bovine:* African Buffalo or Cape Buffalo * American Buffalo, North American colloquial name for American Bison * Wisent, or Eurasian Buffalo...

 trailed down through the breaks to Rocky Point to ford the river. During the steamboat era on the Missouri River from the 1860's until the 1880's, the presence of this trail system going north and south from the Missouri River and passing through the Missouri Breaks caused Rocky Point to become a steamboat
Steamboat
A steamboat or steamship, sometimes called a steamer, is a ship in which the primary method of propulsion is steam power, typically driving propellers or paddlewheels...

 landing. The landing received freight for mining camps in the Judith Mountains and in the Little Rocky Mountains
Little Rocky Mountains
The Little Rocky Mountains, also known as the Little Rockies, are a group of buttes, roughly 765 km2 in area, located towards the southern end of the Fort Belknap Agency in Blaine County and Phillips County in north-central Montana...

 and for Fort Maginnis built in 1880. In the 1870's and 1880's, Rocky Point had a store, hotel, 2 saloons, a feed stable, a blacksmith shop and a ferry. The ferry provided a crossing point on the Missouri River till 1927. Rocky Point was also a stock crossing point on the Missouri River. Due to its remote location in the Missouri Breaks, in the 1870's and 1880's Rocky Point became a refuge for outlaws who turned to rustling cattle and horses until rancher/vigilantes took punitive action in 1884. From 1886 to 1936 it had a post office which was known as Wilder. After the establishment of the Wilder post office in 1886 Rocky Point was sometimes also called Wilder. The community at the Rocky Point ford continued through the homesteading years from 1900 to 1918, but faded away when the ferry ceased to function in the 1920's and finally disappeared in 1936 when the the Army Corps of Engineers condemned and bought up all the river bottom land that might possibly be affected by Ft Peck Dam, then being built. Today the Rocky Point area is part of the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge
Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge
Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge surrounds Fort Peck Reservoir and at 1,100,000 acres is the largest refuge in Montana, United States. Created in 1936, the refuge was named after famed painter of the American West, Charles M. Russell...

 operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
United States Fish and Wildlife Service
The United States Fish and Wildlife Service is a federal government agency within the United States Department of the Interior dedicated to the management of fish, wildlife, and natural habitats...

. Being on public lands the Rocky Point ford area may be approached by "dirt" roads and visited, but the roads become impassible when wet. Today, only some dilapidated historic structures remain.

Rocky Point Before 1900 -- Steamboat Landing, Wood Hawk Yard, Missouri River Crossing Point and Ferry

Rocky Point as a Prehistoric Crossing Point on the Missouri

At Rocky Point the Missouri River flows over a Bearpaw shale reef. This provided a rocky bottom and a low-water ford.
This geologic feature made Rocky Point a crossing point on the Missouri for migrating buffalo since prehistoric times. The migrating buffalo established trails from the broad grassy plains on the north and south of the river, down through the breaks to the site of Rocky Point.

Rocky Point As a Steamboat Landing - 1860's to the 1880's

With the discovery of gold in the Montana Territory in the early 1860's, the Missouri River became the main thoroughfare by which passengers and freight, partcularly bulky freight, was moved by steamboats between the gold fields in the Montana Territory, and the "states". In Montana the river ran through the Missouri Breaks for hundreds of miles. The breaks are steeply eroded badlands that severely limit access to the Missouri River. Rocky Point naturally became a steamboat landing because of its system of prehistoric buffalo trail system that led from the ford up through the breaks to the plains that lay north and south of the river.

The steamboat era lasted from the mid 1860's until the coming of the railroad in the mid to late 1880's. After 1874, when the Northern Pacific Railroad reached Bismark, the riverboats usually brought freight from that river port to the terminus port at Ft. Benton, Montana
Fort Benton, Montana
Fort Benton is a city in and the county seat of Chouteau County, Montana, United States. A portion of the city was designated as a National Historic Landmark District in 1961. Established a full generation beforethe U.S...

. Rocky Point's steamboat landing received and sent only the freight and passengers generated by local demand in the surrounding sparsley settled area.

The upriver terminus port for Missouri River steamboats was Ft. Benton, Montana Territory. Steamboats had to get up to Ft. Benton on the spring rise in the Missouri River flow, caused by the outflow of snow melt from the mountains. High water was in June, after which the level in the river fell. During low-water periods many larger boats bound for Fort Benton were forced to unload at points lower down on the river. These unloaded cargoes were either freighted overland, picked up by smaller boats or stored until the next high-water season. Some of this interrupted freight traffic during low water seasons on the Missouri brought business to the Rocky Point landing, but in low water the steamboats attempted to reach Cow Island
Cow Island, Missouri Breaks, Eastern Montana
Cow Island lies in a left turning bend of the Missouri River, in the area known as the Missouri River Breaks. The island is formed by sediments that are seasonally washed out from the mouths of Cow Creek and Bull Creek, which enter the Missouri River just upstream from Cow Island...

, further up the river, because from Cow Island there was a better freight route up Cow Creek
Cow Creek (Montana)
Cow Creek is a tributary of the Missouri River, approximately long, in north central Montana in the United States. Cow Creek rises in the southern foothills of the Bear Paw Mountains in western Blaine County and flows east and then south, joining the Missouri approximately air miles northeast of...

 to Fort Benton.

Gold discoveries in the Judith Mountains, at Maiden, and in the Little Rocky Mountains increased interest in Rocky Point as a landing point for the mill machinery coming by boat. The mines in the Judith Mountains, to the southwest of Rocky Point were discovered in 1880. The gold strikes in the Little Rockies (an small outlier mountain range on the Eastern Montana plains) was first made as a placer gold strike in 1884 but this placer strike only lasted a few years.

By 1881 Rocky Point was the designated Missouri River steamboat landing point for people and goods coming and going from Fort Maginnis, Montana Territory, 63 miles away.

The Northern Pacific Railroad completed its line through the southern portion of Montana in 1883, which severely reduced steamboat traffic to Ft. Benton. In 1887 the Great Northern Raiload built through the area just north of the Missouri River breaks, and this finally terminated steamboat traffic on the Missouri.

Rocky Point and the Wood Hawk Yards - 1860's to the 1880's

Wood hawk yards developed along the Missouri River to supply fuel to passing steamboats. At these remote locations men known as wood hawks would harvest trees from cottonwood groves along the river, and stack the wood in cords along the river banks. Steamboats traveling on the Missouri would stop and buy the cords of wood to burn for fuel.

The flat on the south side of the river near Rocky Point became one of the many wood hawk camps along the river. In 1868 Lohmire and Lee were located there. In 1871 fugitives from an Indian encounter sought refuge at a woodchopper's cabin there.

Buffalo Hide Hunters and Rocky Point - late 1870's to 1883

After 1876 military campaigns against Indian tribes reduced the danger from roving bands of Indians on the Eastern Montana plains. Buffalo hides had a market because they were used for belting for industrial machines. As the threat from Indian bands decreased, commercial market hunters for buffalo, sometimes called "hide hunters", began to roam over the Eastern Montana prairie and kill buffalo in large numbers, taking only the hide. Commercial hunters in the vicinity of Rocky Point brought their hides down to the steamboat landing, where a middleman -- usually a local merchant -- bought the hides and then shipped them east by steamboat. By 1883 there were so few buffalo left that the day of the commercial market hunter came to an end.

Rocky Point as a Missouri River Crossing Point for Cattle Herds

As cattle replaced buffalo on the plains of Eastern Montana the ford at Rocky Point became a crossing point for large cattle herds. A large rancher trailing a herd to the ford at Rocky Point during a drought had this experience.
"At last we were nearing the Missouri River, intending to cross at Rocky Point. The wind was from the north and cattle smelled the water and broke for it. No power on earth could stop the poor thirsty beasts; bellowing and lowing they ran pell-mell for the water, with the cowboys in hot pursuit. There was a point of quicksand in the river just above the ford and before the men could prevent it the cattle had plunged into it and were miring down. A small steamboat tied at the landing used their donkey engine to help drag out some of them, but we lost seventy head in spite of our best efforts. After this mishap we crossed the herd without further trouble and from here on there was more water and better grass."

Rocky Point's Ferry

The trail system down to the ford at Rocky Point made it a natural point to have a ferry
Ferry
A ferry is a form of transportation, usually a boat, but sometimes a ship, used to carry primarily passengers, and sometimes vehicles and cargo as well, across a body of water. Most ferries operate on regular, frequent, return services...

. As long as Rocky Point was used as a Missouri River crossing point in the breaks the ferry continued, from the 1880's to the late 1920's.

By 1885 John Tyler was the ferryman. Stock detectiver Charles Siringo journeyed from Lewistown, Montana
Lewistown, Montana
Lewistown is a city in and the county seat of Fergus County, Montana, United States. The population was 5,813 at the 2000 census. Lewistown is located in central Montana, the geographic center of the state, southeast of Great Falls...

 to the Little Rocky Mountains
Little Rocky Mountains
The Little Rocky Mountains, also known as the Little Rockies, are a group of buttes, roughly 765 km2 in area, located towards the southern end of the Fort Belknap Agency in Blaine County and Phillips County in north-central Montana...

, and described his crossing of the Missouri River at Rocky Point.
"I arrived in Rocky Point on the south bank of the Big Muddy river three hours after dark. Here I found old man Tyler and his son running the ferry and keeping a small Indian trading store."


In 1907 Elmer Turner bought the ferry at Rocky Point from Tyler,and he ran the Ferry until 1927 when he dismantled it and used the lumber in buildings at Rocky Point.

Rocky Point and the Gumbo mud in the Missouri Breaks

When the clay dirt of the Missouri Breaks becomes wet, it first becomes slick then it becomes sticky and clumps up around any surface that comes in contact with it. The sticky nature of the mud is because the clay has a high bentonite
Bentonite
Bentonite is an absorbent aluminium phyllosilicate, essentially impure clay consisting mostly of montmorillonite. There are different types of bentonite, each named after the respective dominant element, such as potassium , sodium , calcium , and aluminum . Experts debate a number of nomenclatorial...

 content. The Missouri Breaks are notorious for this sticky "gumbo mud".

Travelers to Rocky Point in wet weather encountered this mud. It was exhausting to travel through. Charley Siringo a famous stock detective rode horseback to Rocky Point on his favorite mare, intending to cross the Missouri River, on his way from Lewistown
Lewistown, Montana
Lewistown is a city in and the county seat of Fergus County, Montana, United States. The population was 5,813 at the 2000 census. Lewistown is located in central Montana, the geographic center of the state, southeast of Great Falls...

 to Landusky in the Little Rocky Mountains
Little Rocky Mountains
The Little Rocky Mountains, also known as the Little Rockies, are a group of buttes, roughly 765 km2 in area, located towards the southern end of the Fort Belknap Agency in Blaine County and Phillips County in north-central Montana...

. After Siringo had started into the Missouri Breaks (which he refers to as the "Bad Lands"), he encountered the "sticky mud" of the Missouri Breaks:
"…the sticky mud of the 'Bad Lands' was something fearful. It would stick to the mare's feet till the poor animal could hardly gallop. I had seen many kinds of sticky mud in my life, but nothing to equal this"
When Siringo dismounted,
"I found I couldn't get my foot in the stirrup, owing to the mud that was stuck fast to it. Here my early cowboy training in the art of fancy swearing came in play, as it seemed to relieve my mind, while the mud was being scraped off my foot with a knife."
When he finally got to Rocky Point Siringo's mare was exhausted.
"My mare had only traveled 30 miles, but she had carried about 75 pounds of mud across the 'Bad Lands,' hence she was almost played out on arriving at Rocky Point. I had often heard of the 'Bad lands' and wanted to visit them, but now that desire had vanished."

Rocky Point becomes a Settlement in Montana Territory

In the Missouri Riber Breaks a ferry and a place to cross stock over the Missouri River were rare, and a community grew up at Rocky Point. Rocky Point became a meeting place and center of trade for miners, woodhawks, trappers, buffalo hunters, whiskey traders, ranchers and cowboys. Rocky Point served legitimate local businessmen and ranchers, but also became a place where thieves and outlaws lived.

In 1880, C.A. Broadwater, Helena merchant and entrepreneur, moved his warehouse upriver from Carroll landing to the vicinity of Rocky Point. He erected buildings and named the settlement Wilder after Amherst H. Wilder, his business associate from St. Paul, Minnesota. Broadwater received shipments being forwarded to Ft. Maginnis. He requested military aid and a detachment of 19 men was sent Wilder in order to guard government freight until it was shipped to Ft. Maginnis.

In 1885, Rocky Point had grown to one store, one hotel, one feed stable, two saloons, a blacksmith shop and the ferry run by Jimmy Taylor. The store was run by R.A. Richie and a warehouse 40 ft. x 90 ft. was run by M.F. Marsh who also ran his bar and hotel.

Teddy Blue Abbott, a cowboy who later became a ranch owner and who wrote a book about his life had these observations about Rocky Point in the 1880's.
"There were a few stores at Rocky Point, and a saloon run by a man named Marsh, and three white women. One was Mrs. Marsh, a very nice lady who kept the eating house. She had a daughter. And there was also a woman they called Big Ox, who was one of those haybags that used to follow the buffalo camps. They had the damnedest names, those big old fat buffalo women....We was in a wilderness and we had to make the best of it. As for Big Ox, I have heard men say that when a man is starving he would eat crumbs and worse than crumbs."

Rocky Point as a Refuge and Gathering Place for Outlaws and Rustlers in the early 1880's

In the 1870's Rocky Point lay in the heart of the Missouri Breaks where extensive badlands
Badlands
A badlands is a type of dry terrain where softer sedimentary rocks and clay-rich soils have been extensively eroded by wind and water. It can resemble malpaís, a terrain of volcanic rock. Canyons, ravines, gullies, hoodoos and other such geological forms are common in badlands. They are often...

 run along the Missouri River for hundreds of miles. This area lay on the margins of several territorial counties and was thus remote from any county seat. The appearance of a county sheriff or his deputy in the breaks was a rare event, and the presence of law enforcement was non-existant. Persons in trouble with the law gathered at Rocky Point because it provided a refuge from interference by law officers. The outlaws resided in the river bottoms and masqueraded as buffalo hunters, Indian traders or wood hawks. Rocky Point in the 1870's and 1880's was well knonwn to be a tough town.

Extending out from the Missouri Breaks, both to the north and south, were the vast grasslands of the Eastern Montana praries. In the early 1880's the buffalo on these ranges were hunted to near extinction, and were replaced by large herds of cattle, most trailed up from Texas. Ranches were located on these ranges along the water courses. They kept herds of horses. This environment provided an opportunity for thieves -- they rustled stock from herds on the plains on one side of the Missouri River, drove them into remote reaches of the breaks, changed their brands, and then moved the stock to the other side of the river, where the stock could be sold. Rustling horses was most common because they could be driven faster than cattle. Rocky Point was associated with this system of rustling because stolen stock could be crossed from one side of the river to the other at the Rocky Point Ford. The consensus of the surrounding ranching community was: "There were rustlers' rendezvous at the mouth of the Musselshell, at Rocky Point and at Wolf Point [in Montana Territory]".

Vigilantes Visit Rocky Point in 1884

In 1884 Granville Stuart, an early pioneer
Pioneer
A pioneer is a soldier employed to perform engineering tasks. The term is in principle similar to sapper.Pioneers were originally part of the Artillery branch of European armies. Their primary job was to assist other Arms in tasks such as construction of field fortifications or military camps...

 and rancher (operator-owner of the large DHS ranch located south of the breaks near Fort Maginnis) organized a strike force that went into the breaks, seeking out and summarily hanging (or shooting it out with) suspected rustlers
Rustlers
Rustlers are a range of burgers and hot sandwiches produced by Kepak Convenience Foods, based in Kirkham, Lancashire, England. The parent company, Kepak, is based in Dublin, Ireland. Each product in the range comes packed with a sachet of sauce appropriate for the food...

. Estimates of casualtis ran from a low of 13 to a high of 35, but probably were closer to 18 or 20.

Rocky Point was visited by the vigilantes in 1884.
"At the time the vigilante committee started for the mouth of the Musselshell, another party left for the vicinity of Rocky Point where two notorious horse thieves, known as Red Mike and Brocky Gallagher, were making their headquarters. They had stolen about thirty head of horses from Smith river, changed the brands and were holding them in the bad lands...When the vigilantes arrived at Rocky Point the men were not there but had crossed over to the north side of the river. The party followed after, and captured them and recovered some of the horses. Both men pled guilty to horse stealing and told their captors that there were six head of the stolen horses at Dutch Louie's ranch on Crooked Creek.
Both Red Mike and Brocky Gallagher were hung by the vigilantes. As a result of the vigilantes' attentions, rustling declined in the breaks.

Rocky Point Acquires the Alternative Name of Wilder, Montana, And Continues into the 20th Century

The end of the Missouri River steamboat era came with the completion across Montana of the Northern Pacific Railroad line in 1883, followed by the construction into Montana of the Great Northern Railroad line in 1887. Rocky Point was still was a crossing point on the Missouri, but it was not located between any major towns and only attracted limited traffic.

In 1886 a post office was created in the Rocky Point area, and given the name of Wilder, which name originated with C.A. Broadwater (see above). The Wilder post office operated from 1886 to 1939. Robert A. Richie became the first postmaster. In 1888 Welter S. Collins was postmaster. In 1889 Philander D. Freese was postmaster at Wilder. Fredrick J. Bourdon then became postmaster and in 1895 A. L. Monroe took the job. Three months later James Tyler became the postmaster.

After the creation of the post office the general community at the crossing point on the Missouri was still known as Rocky Point, but the Post Office was known as Wilder, and sometimes the community was also referred to as Wilder.

As long as the ferry functioned, Rocky Point remained a local gathering place. It became a polling place for elections. During the election of 1878 there was a polling place at Rocky Point. In 1886 there were 53 votes in the election and the judges were: Richie, the postmaster, Tyler, a store owner and ferry operator, and Pike Landusky, a miner and bar owner and generally colorful character.

In 1888, Marsh's saloon at the Rocky Point ford burned down and he rented a building from E.C. Bartlett. R.A. Richie moved away to Glasgow where he died of typhoid fever.

In 1889 Montana became a state. At that time Rocky Point was in Choteau County, but all of Choteau County south of the Missouri River was traded off to Fergus County for $2500 and Wilder became part of Fergus County.

In 1900, Rocky Point still remained a river crossing with a ferry, an operating store and bar to serve the area. Tex Alford ran a saloon across the river. After 1900 homesteaders began to arrive in greater numbers on the Eastern Montana prarie. In 1905 Margaret Frost was the postmaster at Wilder. In 1907 Elmer Turner took over the store at Rocky Point and the Wilder post office. He also bought the ferry at the Rocky Point crossing from Tyler. Turne homesteaded and lived at the ford until 1935 when the government purchased all the land in the Missouri valley for the Fort Peck Dam.

In 1918 the Wilder Post Office was moved from the area close to the ford, to Luella M. Belyea's homestead on top of the river hill. Mr. Elmer Turner maintained the ferry at Rocky Point/Wilder until the winter of 1929 when he used the lumber to roof a new log shop and in another building which still stands. Elma M. Webb took over the Wilder post office on 4 November 1920. The original handmade boxes, counter and shelves from the river were installed in her home where she also ran a store. During Elma Webb's tenure from 1920 to 1935, the mail came from Roy on Monday and Friday of each week.

After the ferry was dismantled in 1929, Rocky Point ford ceased to function either as a ferry or a community, but the concept of community continued at the Wilder Post Office, though no longer at the site of the original ford. Local people continued to congregate at the Wilder Post Office and store in the home of Elma Webb. Wilder was voting precinct #30 and was a polling place from its origin until 1942 when the last election was held at the Little Crooked School house with John Mauland, Edith McNulty and Ray McNulty as judges.

Upon the death of her husband, Elma Webb leased her place to Elna Brumfield Wright and turned the Wilder Post Office over to her on 15 December 1935. Elna put it the store/post office charge of her brother-in-law, Stanley Wright, on 4 June 1936. Bertine Mathison leased the Webb place and became postmaster in 1937. Fire destroyed the building and the Wilder Post Office was discontinued 30 November of 1939, which also spelled the end of Wilder as a successor to Rocky Point.

Rocky Point Considered as a Site For a Highway Bridge in 1931

In 1931 Rocky Point was considered as a site for bridge over the Missouri River to connect a north-south highway which was projected to be built through the breaks between Lewistown and Malta Montana. The Rocky Point bridge site had a good foundation in the Bearpaw Shale, and the channel was not prone to wander. In addition, in comparison to other sites, Rocky Point had a lower estimated price for the bridge as well as the approach road through the breaks. However, before the Montana legislature could take action, the depression caused all road building plans to be placed on hold. By the time interest in the highway revived in the 1950's Rocky Point was passed over in favor of another location.

Rocky Point Area Is Absorbed into the Ft. Peck Dam Project In 1935

In 1936 the land at site of Rocky Point became the property of the U.S. Government when the Army Corps of Engineers condemned and bought up all the river bottom land that might possibly be affected by Ft Peck Dam, then being built. This ended all community activity at the site of the river ford at Rocky Point. All the families who had lived on the ranches and homesteads along the Missouri River moved away. The lands at the Rocky Point ford have remained in federal control since that time. They are now part of the Charles A. Russell Wildife Refuge operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Several historic structures still exist down along the Missouri near the site of the Missouri River ford. They are in deteriorating condition.

A Field Trip to Rocky Point

Approach roads and site are on public lands in the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge
Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge
Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge surrounds Fort Peck Reservoir and at 1,100,000 acres is the largest refuge in Montana, United States. Created in 1936, the refuge was named after famed painter of the American West, Charles M. Russell...

, operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The refuge is easily accessible on public roads. The coordinates and a "Google Earth" review, or utlization of a DeLorme atlas of maps will provide directions from U.S. Highway 191 to Rocky Point.

Off the highway, roads are mostly all "dirt". They are inaccessible when wet. Although the description by Charles Siringo quoted above of the difficulties with sticky mud in the breaks is over a hundred years old, it is still applicable.

The website for the Charles M. Russell national Wildlife Refuge has downloadable maps, and provides information on "Current Refuge Road Conditions" on the home page, specifically noting impassable places, but warns that their list may not be complete or up to date.

External Links

Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge

Homestead Tracks Over Buffalo Tracks, p.428, 429
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