Owen Glynne Jones
Encyclopedia
Owen Glynne Jones was a Welsh
rock-climber and mountaineer. He established many new routes in the Lake District
and elsewhere, often climbing with George and Ashley Abraham
, brothers who photographed the climbs for posterity.
, England
, the son of a Welsh
carpenter-builder, and took a first-class Honours degree in experimental physics
. Not able to obtain a professorship, he became physics master at the City of London School
. He began climbing in 1888, and was among those pioneers who first perceived rock climbing as a sport. As a climber, he had an athletic climbing style, and is considered by many to be one of the first "rock gymnasts". Although Jones said little in his writings about his training tactics – other than working with dumbbells – there are several stories regarding his gymnastic feats
He joked and called himself, "the Only Genuine Jones", and he was famous at Wasdale Head
in the Lake District
for his gymnastic stunts around the inn. As a rock climber, however, he drew disapproval from some of his colleagues – particularly Aleister Crowley
– for his use of a top-rope to explore difficult pitches before attempting them (he was, nevertheless, a very daring climber. He was reputed to be fearless when climbing above a drop, though some have conjectured that this was because of his short-sightedness). Crowley also criticised his "lunging for holds", thought him a self-publicist, and was disdainful of Jones teaming-up with "two photographers".
In 1896, Jones climbed the 70-foot Kern Knotts Crack with a top-rope. Although he used an ice axe
advantageously at the bottom for a step, as well as "combined tactics" (probably a shoulder stand) – accepted practices at the time - this was an impressive ascent. The following year he led a companion up the route in proper fashion. The Crack is now rated
about Mild Very Severe (roughly equivalent to US grade 5.7 or 5.8), and later Jones became so proficient on it he could go up the crack and down an easy chimney nearby in seven minutes. This was a benchmark climb, perhaps as difficult – though not as dangerous – as anything being done in Saxony
at that time. Jones developed the forerunner of the currently used British adjectival grading system for rock climbs.
In 1897 O. G. Jones published, with George Abraham
, his classic Rock Climbing in the English Lake District; Jones's exuberant style did much to popularise the sport. A facsimile of the 2nd edition (1900) is still in print.
He was killed, at the age of 32, in a climbing accident on the Ferpècle arête
of the Dent Blanche
in Switzerland
.
Wales
Wales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and the island of Great Britain, bordered by England to its east and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It has a population of three million, and a total area of 20,779 km²...
rock-climber and mountaineer. He established many new routes in the Lake District
Lake District
The Lake District, also commonly known as The Lakes or Lakeland, is a mountainous region in North West England. A popular holiday destination, it is famous not only for its lakes and its mountains but also for its associations with the early 19th century poetry and writings of William Wordsworth...
and elsewhere, often climbing with George and Ashley Abraham
George and Ashley Abraham
George and Ashley Abraham were brother climbers and photographers who lived in Keswick, Cumberland in the English Lake District...
, brothers who photographed the climbs for posterity.
Rock climbing
Jones was born in LondonLondon
London is the capital city of :England and the :United Kingdom, the largest metropolitan area in the United Kingdom, and the largest urban zone in the European Union by most measures. Located on the River Thames, London has been a major settlement for two millennia, its history going back to its...
, England
England
England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental...
, the son of a Welsh
Wales
Wales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and the island of Great Britain, bordered by England to its east and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It has a population of three million, and a total area of 20,779 km²...
carpenter-builder, and took a first-class Honours degree in experimental physics
Experimental physics
Within the field of physics, experimental physics is the category of disciplines and sub-disciplines concerned with the observation of physical phenomena in order to gather data about the universe...
. Not able to obtain a professorship, he became physics master at the City of London School
City of London School
The City of London School is a boys' independent day school on the banks of the River Thames in the City of London, England. It is the brother school of the City of London School for Girls and the co-educational City of London Freemen's School...
. He began climbing in 1888, and was among those pioneers who first perceived rock climbing as a sport. As a climber, he had an athletic climbing style, and is considered by many to be one of the first "rock gymnasts". Although Jones said little in his writings about his training tactics – other than working with dumbbells – there are several stories regarding his gymnastic feats
He joked and called himself, "the Only Genuine Jones", and he was famous at Wasdale Head
Wasdale Head
Wasdale Head is a small agricultural village in the Lake District National Park in Cumbria, England. The village claims to be home of the highest mountain , deepest lake , smallest church and biggest liar in England...
in the Lake District
Lake District
The Lake District, also commonly known as The Lakes or Lakeland, is a mountainous region in North West England. A popular holiday destination, it is famous not only for its lakes and its mountains but also for its associations with the early 19th century poetry and writings of William Wordsworth...
for his gymnastic stunts around the inn. As a rock climber, however, he drew disapproval from some of his colleagues – particularly Aleister Crowley
Aleister Crowley
Aleister Crowley , born Edward Alexander Crowley, and also known as both Frater Perdurabo and The Great Beast, was an influential English occultist, astrologer, mystic and ceremonial magician, responsible for founding the religious philosophy of Thelema. He was also successful in various other...
– for his use of a top-rope to explore difficult pitches before attempting them (he was, nevertheless, a very daring climber. He was reputed to be fearless when climbing above a drop, though some have conjectured that this was because of his short-sightedness). Crowley also criticised his "lunging for holds", thought him a self-publicist, and was disdainful of Jones teaming-up with "two photographers".
In 1896, Jones climbed the 70-foot Kern Knotts Crack with a top-rope. Although he used an ice axe
Ice axe
An ice axe, is a multi-purpose ice and snow tool used by mountaineers both in the ascent and descent of routes which involve frozen conditions. It can be held and employed in a number of different ways, depending on the terrain encountered...
advantageously at the bottom for a step, as well as "combined tactics" (probably a shoulder stand) – accepted practices at the time - this was an impressive ascent. The following year he led a companion up the route in proper fashion. The Crack is now rated
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
about Mild Very Severe (roughly equivalent to US grade 5.7 or 5.8), and later Jones became so proficient on it he could go up the crack and down an easy chimney nearby in seven minutes. This was a benchmark climb, perhaps as difficult – though not as dangerous – as anything being done in Saxony
Saxony
The Free State of Saxony is a landlocked state of Germany, contingent with Brandenburg, Saxony Anhalt, Thuringia, Bavaria, the Czech Republic and Poland. It is the tenth-largest German state in area, with of Germany's sixteen states....
at that time. Jones developed the forerunner of the currently used British adjectival grading system for rock climbs.
In 1897 O. G. Jones published, with George Abraham
George and Ashley Abraham
George and Ashley Abraham were brother climbers and photographers who lived in Keswick, Cumberland in the English Lake District...
, his classic Rock Climbing in the English Lake District; Jones's exuberant style did much to popularise the sport. A facsimile of the 2nd edition (1900) is still in print.
He was killed, at the age of 32, in a climbing accident on the Ferpècle arête
Arete
Areté is the term meaning "virtue" or "excellence", from Greek ἈρετήArete may also be used:*as a given name of persons or things:**Queen Arete , a character in Homer's Odyssey.***197 Arete, an asteroid....
of the Dent Blanche
Dent Blanche
The Dent Blanche is a mountain in the Pennine Alps, lying in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. With its high summit, it is one of the highest peaks in the Alps.-Naming:...
in Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
.