Olivier Theyskens
Encyclopedia
Olivier Theyskens (ˌɔlɪviər ˈtʰɛiskəns; born January 4, 1977 in Brussels
, Belgium
) is a fashion designer who has worked with several major houses, including Rochas, Nina Ricci
, and Theory.
As a child, Theyskens' parents encouraged him to draw men and women in costumes and were not surprised when at the age of 7 years old, Theyskens proclaimed he wanted to "do haute couture".
In October 1995, aged 18, Olivier Theyskens began attending the prestigious École Nationale Superieure des Arts Visuels de la Cambre to study fashion design, but dropped out in 1997 to start his own label. His first collections were often referred to as "gothic extravaganzas" and were created from bed sheets that his grandmother gave to him. Without sufficient financial support, he was forced to close his label. Despite this, sales of his line were surprisingly strong and as his friend Laetitia Crahay, Chanel
's assistant costume jewelry designer, says, "I never worry for Olivier, because I think he's a winner.
Theyskens then progressed to creating stage costumes for the Théâtre de la Monnaie. During this period, he was also designing clothing as a pastime. Theyskens was brought to public attention when one of his dresses was worn by Madonna
to the 1998 Academy Awards.
selected Olivier Theyskens as its creative director in 2002. In March 2003, Theyskens presented his first collection for the House of Rochas, to critical acclaim. Theyskens, within his first few months, created an "entirely new silhouette for the house" that was French-influenced and elegant. His first full collection, for Fall 2003, was praised by style.com as "ravishing" and "nothing short of magnificent."
For the next several years, Rochas continued to garner praise among fashion critics and to attract loyal followers. Rochas clients included Nicole Kidman
, Jennifer Aniston
, Kirsten Dunst
, Kate Bosworth
, Jennifer Lopez
, Rachel Weisz
and Sarah Jessica Parker
. In 2006, the Council of Fashion Designers of America
awarded Theyskens the International Award.
However, Theyskens' focus on "demicouture" (pieces too expensive to mass-produce but did not meet the strict couture rules about hand-stitching and numbers of fitting) was questioned by both fashion insiders and businessmen alike, as a viable business strategy. His gowns, some of which were priced upwards of $20,000, were often out of reach for all but the most fabulously wealthy. Theyskens took a purer approach to fashion and did not rely, like many fashion houses, on accessory sales for a reliable source of revenue. Theyskens' refusal to create a marketable accessories line, combined with the fact that he undermined the importance of advertising, contributed to the demise of the House of Rochas.
Theyskens was notorious for being anti-capitalist in terms of his vision for Rochas. Theyskens asserted that he wanted to "stop global vulgarity".
In July 2006, Procter & Gamble
(Rochas's owner) announced the discontinuation of Rochas's fashion division, shocking many in the fashion industry. One "long-time designer," commenting anonymously in the New York Times, said of the closure, "That sort of perfect, made-to-measure business can't exist today, which is really too bad. Everything is about business now, and fashion shouldn't have to follow normal economic models – that's not the point. What happened to investing in beauty?"
Theyskens' first show for the House of Nina Ricci established him as being somewhat wiser in a business perspective. Sarah Mower of style.com, adds "Theyskens is accurately intuiting the fact that fashion needs to address a younger, more casual level of dressing." This is in stark contrast to the couture-like dresses Theyskens was creating for Rochas.
Theyskens' collections for the House of Nina Ricci met with acclaim. "In terms of interest, what he [Theyskens] is doing for day is the thing to watch," affirmed one critic.
Theyskens left Nina Ricci in the fall of 2009, replaced by Peter Copping from Louis Vuitton as creative director.
On October 25, the company formally announced Theyskens as artistic director.
last issue of the project started in 2001, for 'Fashion 2001 Landed-Geland' in Antwerp. Next to five large exhibitions, a new magazine was launched: N°A magazine, published by Artimo, now called A MAGAZINE curated by.
Brussels
Brussels , officially the Brussels Region or Brussels-Capital Region , is the capital of Belgium and the de facto capital of the European Union...
, Belgium
Belgium
Belgium , officially the Kingdom of Belgium, is a federal state in Western Europe. It is a founding member of the European Union and hosts the EU's headquarters, and those of several other major international organisations such as NATO.Belgium is also a member of, or affiliated to, many...
) is a fashion designer who has worked with several major houses, including Rochas, Nina Ricci
Nina Ricci (brand)
Nina Ricci is a fashion house founded by Maria "Nina" Ricci and her son Robert in Paris in 1932, and owned by the Spanish beauty and fashion group Puig since 1998. Nina Ricci designed gowns while Robert managed the business and finances. She worked with the fabrics directly on the mannequin to...
, and Theory.
Biography
Olivier Theyskens was born to a Belgian chemical engineer and a French homemaker. When he was young, Theyskens desperately wanted to be a girl, and was tormented by the fact that girls "got to be princesses and wear skirts."As a child, Theyskens' parents encouraged him to draw men and women in costumes and were not surprised when at the age of 7 years old, Theyskens proclaimed he wanted to "do haute couture".
In October 1995, aged 18, Olivier Theyskens began attending the prestigious École Nationale Superieure des Arts Visuels de la Cambre to study fashion design, but dropped out in 1997 to start his own label. His first collections were often referred to as "gothic extravaganzas" and were created from bed sheets that his grandmother gave to him. Without sufficient financial support, he was forced to close his label. Despite this, sales of his line were surprisingly strong and as his friend Laetitia Crahay, Chanel
Chanel
Chanel S.A. is a French fashion house founded by the couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, well established in haute couture, specializing in luxury goods . She gained the name "Coco" while maintaining a career as a singer at a café in France...
's assistant costume jewelry designer, says, "I never worry for Olivier, because I think he's a winner.
Theyskens then progressed to creating stage costumes for the Théâtre de la Monnaie. During this period, he was also designing clothing as a pastime. Theyskens was brought to public attention when one of his dresses was worn by Madonna
Madonna (entertainer)
Madonna is an American singer-songwriter, actress and entrepreneur. Born in Bay City, Michigan, she moved to New York City in 1977 to pursue a career in modern dance. After performing in the music groups Breakfast Club and Emmy, she released her debut album in 1983...
to the 1998 Academy Awards.
Rochas
RochasRochas
Rochas is a fashion, beauty, and perfume house founded in 1925 by french designer Marcel Rochas, born in 1902 and died in 1955, first designer of 2/3-length coats and skirts with pockets...
selected Olivier Theyskens as its creative director in 2002. In March 2003, Theyskens presented his first collection for the House of Rochas, to critical acclaim. Theyskens, within his first few months, created an "entirely new silhouette for the house" that was French-influenced and elegant. His first full collection, for Fall 2003, was praised by style.com as "ravishing" and "nothing short of magnificent."
For the next several years, Rochas continued to garner praise among fashion critics and to attract loyal followers. Rochas clients included Nicole Kidman
Nicole Kidman
Nicole Mary Kidman, AC is an American-born Australian actress, singer, film producer, spokesmodel, and humanitarian. After starring in a number of small Australian films and TV shows, Kidman's breakthrough was in the 1989 thriller Dead Calm...
, Jennifer Aniston
Jennifer Aniston
Jennifer Joanna Aniston is an American actress, film director, and producer, best known for her role as Rachel Green on the television sitcom Friends, a role which earned her an Emmy Award, a Golden Globe Award, and a Screen Actors Guild Award.Aniston has also enjoyed a successful film career,...
, Kirsten Dunst
Kirsten Dunst
Kirsten Caroline Dunst is an American actress, singer and model. She made her film debut in Oedipus Wrecks, a short film directed by Woody Allen for the anthology New York Stories...
, Kate Bosworth
Kate Bosworth
Catherine Ann "Kate" Bosworth is an American actress. Bosworth starred in the television series Young Americans, in which she played Bella Banks. She became known with a leading role in 2002's Blue Crush. The following year, Bosworth played the teenage girlfriend of porn star John Holmes in...
, Jennifer Lopez
Jennifer Lopez
Jennifer Lynn Lopez is an American actress, singer, record producer, dancer, television personality, and fashion designer. Lopez began her career as a dancer on the television comedy program In Living Color. Subsequently venturing into acting, she gained recognition in the 1995 action-thriller...
, Rachel Weisz
Rachel Weisz
Rachel Hannah Weisz born 7 March 1970)is an English-American film and theatre actress and former fashion model. She started her acting career at Trinity Hall, Cambridge, where she co-founded the theatrical group Cambridge Talking Tongues...
and Sarah Jessica Parker
Sarah Jessica Parker
Sarah Jessica Parker is an American film, television, and theater actress and producer.She is best known for her leading role as Carrie Bradshaw on the HBO television series Sex and the City , for which she won four Golden Globe Awards, three Screen Actors Guild Awards, and two Emmy Awards...
. In 2006, the Council of Fashion Designers of America
Council of Fashion Designers of America
The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. is a not-for-profit trade association of over 350 of America’s foremost fashion and accessory designers. As of 2009, Diane von Fürstenberg is the group's President and Steven Kolb is the Executive Director...
awarded Theyskens the International Award.
However, Theyskens' focus on "demicouture" (pieces too expensive to mass-produce but did not meet the strict couture rules about hand-stitching and numbers of fitting) was questioned by both fashion insiders and businessmen alike, as a viable business strategy. His gowns, some of which were priced upwards of $20,000, were often out of reach for all but the most fabulously wealthy. Theyskens took a purer approach to fashion and did not rely, like many fashion houses, on accessory sales for a reliable source of revenue. Theyskens' refusal to create a marketable accessories line, combined with the fact that he undermined the importance of advertising, contributed to the demise of the House of Rochas.
Theyskens was notorious for being anti-capitalist in terms of his vision for Rochas. Theyskens asserted that he wanted to "stop global vulgarity".
Procter & Gamble
Procter & Gamble is a Fortune 500 American multinational corporation headquartered in downtown Cincinnati, Ohio and manufactures a wide range of consumer goods....
(Rochas's owner) announced the discontinuation of Rochas's fashion division, shocking many in the fashion industry. One "long-time designer," commenting anonymously in the New York Times, said of the closure, "That sort of perfect, made-to-measure business can't exist today, which is really too bad. Everything is about business now, and fashion shouldn't have to follow normal economic models – that's not the point. What happened to investing in beauty?"
Nina Ricci
On November 1, 2006 Theyskens became artistic director at Nina Ricci, and his first line debuted in March 2007.Theyskens' first show for the House of Nina Ricci established him as being somewhat wiser in a business perspective. Sarah Mower of style.com, adds "Theyskens is accurately intuiting the fact that fashion needs to address a younger, more casual level of dressing." This is in stark contrast to the couture-like dresses Theyskens was creating for Rochas.
Theyskens' collections for the House of Nina Ricci met with acclaim. "In terms of interest, what he [Theyskens] is doing for day is the thing to watch," affirmed one critic.
Theyskens left Nina Ricci in the fall of 2009, replaced by Peter Copping from Louis Vuitton as creative director.
Theory
For Spring 2011, Theyskens was tapped by CEO Andrew Rosen to design a capsule collection for Theory.On October 25, the company formally announced Theyskens as artistic director.
Projects
In 2003, Olivier Theyskens was invited to curate NºD magazine, after Dirk Van Saene, Bernhard Willhelm and Hussein ChalayanHussein Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan MBE is a British/Turkish Cypriot fashion designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1993.- Biography :...
last issue of the project started in 2001, for 'Fashion 2001 Landed-Geland' in Antwerp. Next to five large exhibitions, a new magazine was launched: N°A magazine, published by Artimo, now called A MAGAZINE curated by.