Kumejima-tsumugi
Encyclopedia
is the Japanese craft
of silk
cloth practised in Kumejima, Okinawa Prefecture
. Kumejima tsumugi has the longest history of the approximately two hundred forms of tsumugi
, and is the oldest kasuri
fabric. It is recognised as one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan.
was known in Kumejima by the fifteenth century, after a local, having studied sericulture
in Ming Dynasty China
, transmitted the techniques. The mulberry
is said to grow particularly well on the island. By the seventeenth century, Kumejima Tsumugi formed part of the tribute paid to the Ryūkyū Kings
, and it was transported to Edo
via the Satsuma Domain.
floss is extracted from silkworm cocoons and spun
by hand into yarn
. It is then dyed with the kasuri
technique using indigenous
plant dyes and a mud mordant
to give it its usual black-brown colouring; the plants used are the guru
, techika, kurubo or Japanese persimmon, yamamomo
, and yuna or cotton tree hibiscus. Finally it is woven with a loom
, and fulled by block.
Japanese handicrafts
The many and varied traditional handicrafts of Japan are officially recognised and protected and, owing to the folk art movement, are much in demand. Some enjoy status as a meibutsu or regional specialty. Each craft demands a set of specialized skills...
of silk
Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity...
cloth practised in Kumejima, Okinawa Prefecture
Okinawa Prefecture
is one of Japan's southern prefectures. It consists of hundreds of the Ryukyu Islands in a chain over long, which extends southwest from Kyūshū to Taiwan. Okinawa's capital, Naha, is located in the southern part of Okinawa Island...
. Kumejima tsumugi has the longest history of the approximately two hundred forms of tsumugi
Tsumugi
aka Uniform Beauty: Shag Me Teacher! is an award-winning Japanese pink film directed by Hidekazu Takahara and starring Sora Aoi. The DVD is released at July 1st 2009 in the U.S. market.-Synopsis:...
, and is the oldest kasuri
Kasuri
Kasuri is a Japanese word for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric. It is an ikat technique. Kasuri is weft ikat; the warp threads can be a solid color or resist dyed as well, and the weft thread is resist-tied in a specific pattern...
fabric. It is recognised as one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan.
History
Silk productionSericulture
Sericulture, or silk farming, is the rearing of silkworms for the production of raw silk.Although there are several commercial species of silkworms, Bombyx mori is the most widely used and intensively studied. According to Confucian texts, the discovery of silk production by B...
was known in Kumejima by the fifteenth century, after a local, having studied sericulture
Sericulture
Sericulture, or silk farming, is the rearing of silkworms for the production of raw silk.Although there are several commercial species of silkworms, Bombyx mori is the most widely used and intensively studied. According to Confucian texts, the discovery of silk production by B...
in Ming Dynasty China
Ming Dynasty
The Ming Dynasty, also Empire of the Great Ming, was the ruling dynasty of China from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol-led Yuan Dynasty. The Ming, "one of the greatest eras of orderly government and social stability in human history", was the last dynasty in China ruled by ethnic...
, transmitted the techniques. The mulberry
Mulberry
Morus is a genus of flowering plants in the family Moraceae. The 10–16 species of deciduous trees it contains are commonly known as Mulberries....
is said to grow particularly well on the island. By the seventeenth century, Kumejima Tsumugi formed part of the tribute paid to the Ryūkyū Kings
Ryukyu Kingdom
The Ryūkyū Kingdom was an independent kingdom which ruled most of the Ryukyu Islands from the 15th century to the 19th century. The Kings of Ryūkyū unified Okinawa Island and extended the kingdom to the Amami Islands in modern-day Kagoshima Prefecture, and the Sakishima Islands near Taiwan...
, and it was transported to Edo
Edo
, also romanized as Yedo or Yeddo, is the former name of the Japanese capital Tokyo, and was the seat of power for the Tokugawa shogunate which ruled Japan from 1603 to 1868...
via the Satsuma Domain.
Technology
SilkSilk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity...
floss is extracted from silkworm cocoons and spun
Spinning (textiles)
Spinning is a major industry. It is part of the textile manufacturing process where three types of fibre are converted into yarn, then fabric, then textiles. The textiles are then fabricated into clothes or other artifacts. There are three industrial processes available to spin yarn, and a...
by hand into yarn
Yarn
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or...
. It is then dyed with the kasuri
Kasuri
Kasuri is a Japanese word for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric. It is an ikat technique. Kasuri is weft ikat; the warp threads can be a solid color or resist dyed as well, and the weft thread is resist-tied in a specific pattern...
technique using indigenous
Indigenous
Indigenous means: belonging to a certain place.Indigenous may refer to:In Ecology and Geography*Indigenous resources, resources which exist within local geography, that are not imported...
plant dyes and a mud mordant
Mordant
A mordant is a substance used to set dyes on fabrics or tissue sections by forming a coordination complex with the dye which then attaches to the fabric or tissue. It may be used for dyeing fabrics, or for intensifying stains in cell or tissue preparations. The term mordant comes from the Latin...
to give it its usual black-brown colouring; the plants used are the guru
Smilax
Smilax is a genus of about 300-350 species, found in temperate zones, tropics and subtropics worldwide. In China for example about 80 are found , while there are 20 in North America north of Mexico...
, techika, kurubo or Japanese persimmon, yamamomo
Myrica rubra
Myrica rubra, also called yangmei , yamamomo , Chinese Bayberry, Japanese Bayberry, Red Bayberry,Yumberry, or Chinese strawberry tree is a subtropical tree grown for its sweet, crimson to dark purple-red, edible fruit.- Description :It is a small to medium-sized evergreen tree...
, and yuna or cotton tree hibiscus. Finally it is woven with a loom
Loom
A loom is a device used to weave cloth. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads...
, and fulled by block.
Safeguarding
In 2004 the was founded and Kumejima-tsumugi was designated one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan.See also
- SericultureSericultureSericulture, or silk farming, is the rearing of silkworms for the production of raw silk.Although there are several commercial species of silkworms, Bombyx mori is the most widely used and intensively studied. According to Confucian texts, the discovery of silk production by B...
- KasuriKasuriKasuri is a Japanese word for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric. It is an ikat technique. Kasuri is weft ikat; the warp threads can be a solid color or resist dyed as well, and the weft thread is resist-tied in a specific pattern...
- Yūki Tsumugi
- Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan
- National Treasures of Japan - Dyeing and Weaving
- Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of HumanityRepresentative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of HumanityThe Lists of Intangible Cultural Heritage are established by UNESCO aiming to ensure the better protection of important intangible cultural heritages worldwide and the awareness of their significance...