Kealakekua Bay
Encyclopedia
Kealakekua Bay is located on the Kona coast
of the island of Hawaii
about 12 miles (19.3 km) south of Kailua-Kona.
Settled over a thousand years ago, the surrounding area contains many archeological and historical sites such as religious temples, and was listed in the National Register of Historic Places listings on the island of Hawaii
in 1973 as the Kealakekua Bay Historical District.
The bay is a marine life conservation
district, a popular destination for kayaking
, Scuba diving
and snorkeling
.
Hikiau Heiau was a luakini
temple of Ancient Hawaii
at the south end of the bay, at coordinates 19°28′31"N 155°55′9"W, associated with funeral rites.
The large platform of volcanic rock was originally over 16 feet (4.9 m) high, 250 feet (76.2 m) long, and 100 feet (30.5 m) wide.
The sheer cliff face called Pali Kapu O Keōua overlooking the bay was the burial place of Hawaiian royalty. The name means "forbidden cliffs of Keōua " in honor of Keōua Nui, sometimes known as the "father of kings" since many rulers were his descendants. The difficulty in accessing the cliff kept the exact burial places secret.
The village of Kaawaloa was at the north end of the bay in ancient times, where the Puhina O Lono Heiau was built, along with some royal residences.
The name of the village means "the distant Kava
", from the medicinal plant used in religious rituals.
The name of the bay comes from ke ala ke kua in the Hawaiian Language
which means "the god's pathway" because this area was the focus of extensive Makahiki
celebrations in honor of the god Lono
. Another name for the area north of the bay was hale ki'i, due to the large number of wood carvings, better known today as "tiki
".
Captain James Cook and his ships, the Resolution
and Discovery
, first sighted Kealakekua Bay on the morning of January 17, 1779. He estimated several thousand people lived in the two villages. On January 28, he performed the first Christian
service on the islands, for the funeral of a crew member who had died.
Unbeknownst to him, Cook had entered the bay during Makahiki
, which might have led some of the Hawaiians to think he was part of the Lono
festivities. This was also a traditionally peaceful time of year, so he was welcomed and given food. Cook and his crew stayed for several weeks, returning to sea shortly after the end of the festival; but after suffering damage during a storm, the ships returned two weeks later on February 14, 1779. This time relations were not as smooth.
After some Hawaiians took one of Resolutions small boats, Cook attempted to lure Hawaiian chief Kalaniōpuu aboard until the boat was returned. A skirmish ensued during which Cook was struck in the head and stabbed, on nearly the very spot where he had first set foot on the island. This death was depicted in a series of paintings Death of Cook
.
Several local businesses use "Captain Cook" in their name. In fact, the traditional land division (ahupuaa) of Kealakekua, is now known as Captain Cook, Hawaii due to a post office located in the Captain Cook Coffee Company store, up the slopes of Mauna Loa
. The town now called Kealakekua, Hawaii, was in the land division known as Halekii.
When Kalaniōpuu died in 1782, his oldest son Kiwalao officially inherited the kingdom, but his nephew Kamehameha I
had an important military post, guardian of the god Kūkailimoku
. A younger son, Keōua Kuahuula
, was not happy about this and provoked Kamehameha. The forces met just south of the bay at the battle of Mokuōhai
.
Kamehameha won control of the west and north sides of the island, but Keōua escaped. It would take over a decade to consolidate his control.
In 1786, merchant ships of the King George's Sound Company
under command of the maritime fur trade
rs Nathaniel Portlock and Captain George Dixon anchored in the harbor, but avoided coming ashore since they had been on Cook's voyage he met his demise. In December 1788, the Iphigenia arrived with Chief Kaiana, who had already traveled to China. The first American ship was probably the Lady Washington
around this time under Captain John Kendrick
. Two sailors, Parson Howel and James Boyd, left the ship (in 1790 or when it returned in 1793) and lived on the island.
In March 1790, the American ship Eleanora arrived at Kealakekua Bay and sent a British sailor ashore named John Young
, to determine if the sister ship, the schooner Fair American, had arrived for its planned rendezvous. Young was detained by Kamehameha's men, in order to prevent the Eleanora's Captain Simon Metcalfe
from hearing the news of the demise of the Fair American, including the death of Metcalfe's son, after the massacre at Olowalu
. Young and Isaac Davis
, the lone survivor of the Fair American, slowly adjusted to the island lifestyle. They instructed Hawaiians in the use of the captured cannon and muskets, becoming respected advisors to Kamehameha. In 1791 Spanish explorer Manuel Quimper
visited on the ship Princess Royal
. For an unusual account about the circumstances surrounding Cook's death see Val Wake's article Who Killed Captain Cook AQ journal of contemporary analysis Vol 75 issue 3 May–June 2003. In his article Wake claims that Cook was the victim of a Polynesian political plot by Kamehameha. Wake believes that Cook's death was organised by Kamehameha to discredit the priests and strengthen his claim to the Hawaiian throne. In other words Cook's death was a political assassination and not the random killing by an unruly native mob. Wake's quotes a number of sources for his theory including J.C. Beaglehole who has written the definitive guide to Cook's life and voyages.
George Vancouver
arrived to winter in the islands in March 1792 with a small fleet of British ships. He had been a young midshipman on Cook's fatal voyage 13 years earlier and commanded the party to attempt to recover Cook's remains. This time he avoided anchoring in Kealakekua Bay, but did meet some canoes who were interested in trading. The common request was for firearms, which Vancouver resisted. One included chief Kaiana, who would later turn against Kamehameha. He suspected Kaiana intended to seize his ships, so left him behind and headed up the coast. There he was surprised to encounter a Hawaiian who in broken English introduced himself as "Jack", and told of traveling to America on a fur-trading ship. Through him, Vancouver met Keeaumoku Pāpaiahiahi
, who gave him a favorable impression of Kamehameha (his son-in-law). He spent the rest of the winter in Oahu
.
Vancouver returned in February 1793, and this time picked up Keeaumoku and anchored in Kealakekua Bay. When Kamehameha came to greet the ship, he brought John Young, now fluent in the Hawaiian Language, as an interpreter. This greatly helped to develop a trusted trading relationship instead of the escalating theft and violence that surrounded their meeting 14 years before. The Hawaiians presented a war game which was often part of the Makahiki celebration. Impressed by the warrior's abilities, Vancouver fired off some fireworks at night to demonstrate his military technology.
Vancouver presented some cattle that had been picked up in California. They were weak and barely alive, so he convinced Kamehameha to avoid killing them for ten years.
Scottish doctor James Lind
had recommended the use of citrus juice to prevent scurvy
on long voyages. The botanist Archibald Menzies
had picked up some citrus fruit seeds in South Africa, and dropped them off here, so that future ships might be able to replenish their stocks at the Hawaiian islands.
Vancouver left in March 1793 after visiting the other islands to continue his expedition, and returned again January 13, 1794. He still hoped to broker a truce between Kamehameha and the other islands. His first step was to reconcile Kamehameha with Queen Kaahumanu.
He dropped off more cattle and sheep from California, and discovered a cow left the year before had delivered a calf. The cattle were eventually to become pests, until the "Hawaiian Cowboys" known as the Paniolo were recruited.
The ship's carpenters instructed the Hawaiians and the British advisors how to build a 36 feet (11 m) European-style ship, which they named the Britania. On February 25, 1794, Vancouver gathered leaders from around the island onto his ship and negotiated a treaty. Although sometimes called "ceding" Hawaii to Great Britain, the treaty was never ratified by British Parliament.
to the north. By this time other harbors such as Lahaina and Honolulu became popular with visiting ships. By 1804, the heiau was falling into disuse. In 1814, a British ship HMS Forrester
arrived in the midsts of a mutiny, and Otto von Kotzebue
arrived on a mission from the Russian Empire
in 1816.
When Kamehameha I died in 1819, his oldest son Liholiho officially inherited the kingdom, calling himself Kamehameha II
. His nephew Keaoua Kekuaokalani
inherited the important military and religious post of guardian of Kūkailimoku
. However, true power was held by Kamehameha's widow Queen kaahumanu. She had been convinced by Vancouver and other visitors that the European customs should be adopted, and in the Ai Noa
declared an end to the old Kapu
system.
Kekuaokalani was outraged by this threat to the old traditions, which still were respected by most common people. He gathered religious supporters at Kaawaloa, threatening to take the kingdom by force as happened 37 years earlier. After a failed attempt to negotiate peace, he marched his army north to meet Kalanimoku
's troops who were gathered at Kamakahonu. They met in the Battle of Kuamoo. Both sides had muskets, but Kalanimoku had cannon mounted on double-hulled canoes, and devastated the fighters for the old religion, who still lie buried in the lava rock.
The wood Kii carvings were burned, and the temples fell into disrepair. A small Christian church was built in 1824 in Kaawaloa by the Hawaiian misionaries, and the narrow trail widened to a donkey cart road in the late 1820s, but population declined and shifted to other areas.
In 1825, Admiral Lord Byron
(cousin of the famous poet) on the ship erected a monument to Cook and removed many of the old artifacts.
The last royalty known to live here was high chief Naihe
known as the "national orator" and his wife Chiefess Kapiolani
, early converts to Christianity.
In 1829, she was saddened to find the destruction of the temples included desecrating the bones of her ancestors at the Puuhonua o Hōnaunau
.
She removed the remains of the old chiefs and hid them in the Pali Kapu O Keōua cliffs. She then ordered this last temple to be destroyed. The bones were later moved to the Royal Mausoleum of Hawaii
in 1858, under direction of King Kamehameha IV
.
In 1839 a massive stone church was built just south of the bay. It fell into ruin, and a smaller building called Kahikolu Church
was built in 1852. This also fell into ruin, but has been rebuilt.
In 1894 a wharf was constructed at the village at the south of the bay, now called Napoopoo. A steamer landed in the early 20th century when Kona coffee
became a popular crop in the upland areas.
A large white stone monument was built in 1874 on the order of Princess Likelike
and was deeded to the United Kingdom
in 1877. The chain around the monument is supported by four cannon from the ship HMS Fantome placed with their breaches embedded in the rock in 1876. It marks the approximate location of Cook's death. It is located at coordinates . The inscription reads:
Unfortunately you cannot simply drive to the monument; this remote location is only accessible by water or a steep trail. Many visitors rent a kayak
and paddle across the bay, about 1.5 miles (2.4 km) from its southern end. The pier at Napoopoo can be accessed down a narrow road off the Hawaii Belt Road.
The beach sand was mostly removed by Hurricane Iniki
in 1992.
Boat tours are also available leaving from Honokōhau harbor, Keauhou Bay
, and the Kailua pier.
Hawaiian Spinner Dolphin
s frequent Kealakekua Bay, especially in the morning. The bay serves as a place for them to rest and feed, and as a nursery for mothers and their calves. Due to the calm water conditions, extensive coral reef, and thriving underwater life, Kealakekua Bay offers some of the best snorkeling and diving in Hawaii. The shallow waters adjacent to the monument are best for snorkeling and Scuba diving.
About 180 acre (0.7284348 km²) around the bay was designated a State Historic Park in 1967, and it was added as a Historic District to the National Register of Historic Places
in 1973 as site 73000651. The 315 acres (1.3 km²) of the bay itself were declared a Marine Life Conservation District in 1969.
A narrow one-lane road to the south leads to Puuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park
, which contains more historic sites, and is another snorkel spot.
's book Rendezvous with Rama
, Kealakekua Bay is mentioned as a place where the Commander of the Space Survey Vessel Endeavour
, Bill Norton, visited.
The 1933 song My Little Grass Shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii
mentions the state fish which can be found in the bay: the Humuhumunukunukuapuaa (Reef triggerfish
).
Kona District, Hawaii
Kona is the name of a moku or district on the Big Island of Hawaii in the State of Hawaii. In the current system of administration of Hawaii County, the moku of Kona is divided into North Kona District and South Kona District . The term "Kona" is sometimes used to refer to its largest town,...
of the island of Hawaii
Hawaii (island)
The Island of Hawaii, also called the Big Island or Hawaii Island , is a volcanic island in the North Pacific Ocean...
about 12 miles (19.3 km) south of Kailua-Kona.
Settled over a thousand years ago, the surrounding area contains many archeological and historical sites such as religious temples, and was listed in the National Register of Historic Places listings on the island of Hawaii
National Register of Historic Places listings on the island of Hawaii
This is a list of properties and districts on the island of Hawaii in the U.S. state of Hawaii that are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The island is coterminous with Hawaii County, the state's only county that covers exactly one island...
in 1973 as the Kealakekua Bay Historical District.
The bay is a marine life conservation
Habitat conservation
Habitat conservation is a land management practice that seeks to conserve, protect and restore, habitat areas for wild plants and animals, especially conservation reliant species, and prevent their extinction, fragmentation or reduction in range...
district, a popular destination for kayaking
Kayaking
Kayaking is the use of a kayak for moving across water. Kayaking and canoeing are also known as paddling. Kayaking is distinguished from canoeing by the sitting position of the paddler and the number of blades on the paddle...
, Scuba diving
Scuba diving
Scuba diving is a form of underwater diving in which a diver uses a scuba set to breathe underwater....
and snorkeling
Snorkeling
Snorkeling is the practice of swimming on or through a body of water while equipped with a diving mask, a shaped tube called a snorkel, and usually swimfins. In cooler waters, a wetsuit may also be worn...
.
Ancient history
Settlement on Kealakekua Bay has a long history.Hikiau Heiau was a luakini
Luakini
In ancient Hawai'i, a luakini temple, or luakini heiau, was a Native Hawaiian sacred place where human and animal blood sacrifices were offered....
temple of Ancient Hawaii
Ancient Hawaii
Ancient Hawaii refers to the period of Hawaiian human history preceding the unification of the Kingdom of Hawaii by Kamehameha the Great in 1810. After being first settled by Polynesian long-distance navigators sometime between AD 300–800, a unique culture developed. Diversified agroforestry and...
at the south end of the bay, at coordinates 19°28′31"N 155°55′9"W, associated with funeral rites.
The large platform of volcanic rock was originally over 16 feet (4.9 m) high, 250 feet (76.2 m) long, and 100 feet (30.5 m) wide.
The sheer cliff face called Pali Kapu O Keōua overlooking the bay was the burial place of Hawaiian royalty. The name means "forbidden cliffs of Keōua " in honor of Keōua Nui, sometimes known as the "father of kings" since many rulers were his descendants. The difficulty in accessing the cliff kept the exact burial places secret.
The village of Kaawaloa was at the north end of the bay in ancient times, where the Puhina O Lono Heiau was built, along with some royal residences.
The name of the village means "the distant Kava
Kava
Kava or kava-kava is a crop of the western Pacific....
", from the medicinal plant used in religious rituals.
The name of the bay comes from ke ala ke kua in the Hawaiian Language
Hawaiian language
The Hawaiian language is a Polynesian language that takes its name from Hawaii, the largest island in the tropical North Pacific archipelago where it developed. Hawaiian, along with English, is an official language of the state of Hawaii...
which means "the god's pathway" because this area was the focus of extensive Makahiki
Makahiki
The Makahiki season was the ancient Hawaiian New Year festival, in honor of the god Lono of the Hawaiian religion.It was a holiday covering four consecutive lunar months, approximately from October or November through February or March. Thus it might be thought of as including the equivalent of...
celebrations in honor of the god Lono
Lono
In Hawaiian mythology, the deity Lono is associated with fertility, agriculture, rainfall, and music. In one of the many Hawaiian legends of Lono, he is a fertility and music god who descended to Earth on a rainbow to marry Laka. In agricultural and planting traditions, Lono was identified with...
. Another name for the area north of the bay was hale ki'i, due to the large number of wood carvings, better known today as "tiki
Tiki
Tiki refers to large wood and stone carvings of humanoid forms in Central Eastern Polynesian cultures of the Pacific Ocean. The term is also used in Māori mythology where Tiki is the first man, created by either Tūmatauenga or Tāne. He found the first woman, Marikoriko, in a pond – she seduced him...
".
Captain Cook
Although there are theories that Spanish or Dutch sailors might have stopped here much earlier, the first documented European to arrive was in 1779.Captain James Cook and his ships, the Resolution
HMS Resolution (Cook)
HMS Resolution was a sloop of the Royal Navy, and the ship in which Captain James Cook made his second and third voyages of exploration in the Pacific...
and Discovery
HMS Discovery (1774)
HMS Discovery was the consort ship of James Cook's third expedition to the Pacific Ocean in 1776 - 1780. Like Cook's other ships, Discovery was a Whitby-built collier of 298 tons, originally named Diligence when she was built in 1774. Originally a brig, Cook had her changed to a full rigged ship...
, first sighted Kealakekua Bay on the morning of January 17, 1779. He estimated several thousand people lived in the two villages. On January 28, he performed the first Christian
Christian
A Christian is a person who adheres to Christianity, an Abrahamic, monotheistic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus of Nazareth as recorded in the Canonical gospels and the letters of the New Testament...
service on the islands, for the funeral of a crew member who had died.
Makahiki
The Makahiki season was the ancient Hawaiian New Year festival, in honor of the god Lono of the Hawaiian religion.It was a holiday covering four consecutive lunar months, approximately from October or November through February or March. Thus it might be thought of as including the equivalent of...
, which might have led some of the Hawaiians to think he was part of the Lono
Lono
In Hawaiian mythology, the deity Lono is associated with fertility, agriculture, rainfall, and music. In one of the many Hawaiian legends of Lono, he is a fertility and music god who descended to Earth on a rainbow to marry Laka. In agricultural and planting traditions, Lono was identified with...
festivities. This was also a traditionally peaceful time of year, so he was welcomed and given food. Cook and his crew stayed for several weeks, returning to sea shortly after the end of the festival; but after suffering damage during a storm, the ships returned two weeks later on February 14, 1779. This time relations were not as smooth.
After some Hawaiians took one of Resolutions small boats, Cook attempted to lure Hawaiian chief Kalaniōpuu aboard until the boat was returned. A skirmish ensued during which Cook was struck in the head and stabbed, on nearly the very spot where he had first set foot on the island. This death was depicted in a series of paintings Death of Cook
Death of Cook
Death of Cook is the name of several paintings depicting the 1779 death of British explorer and European discoverer of the Hawaiian Islands, Captain James Cook at Kealakekua Bay. Most of these paintings seem to go back to an original by John Cleveley the Younger, painted in 1784, although other...
.
Several local businesses use "Captain Cook" in their name. In fact, the traditional land division (ahupuaa) of Kealakekua, is now known as Captain Cook, Hawaii due to a post office located in the Captain Cook Coffee Company store, up the slopes of Mauna Loa
Mauna Loa
Mauna Loa is one of five volcanoes that form the Island of Hawaii in the U.S. state of Hawaii in the Pacific Ocean, and the largest on Earth in terms of volume and area covered. It is an active shield volcano, with a volume estimated at approximately , although its peak is about lower than that...
. The town now called Kealakekua, Hawaii, was in the land division known as Halekii.
Turmoil
Kamehameha I
Kamehameha I , also known as Kamehameha the Great, conquered the Hawaiian Islands and formally established the Kingdom of Hawaii in 1810. By developing alliances with the major Pacific colonial powers, Kamehameha preserved Hawaii's independence under his rule...
had an important military post, guardian of the god Kūkailimoku
Kū
In Hawaiian mythology Kū or Kū-ka-ili-moku is one of the four great gods along with Kanaloa, Kāne, and Lono.He is known as the god of war and the husband of the goddess Hina. Some have taken this to suggest a complementary dualism, as the word kū in the Hawaiian language means "standing up" while...
. A younger son, Keōua Kuahuula
Keoua Kuahuula
Keōua Kuahuula was an Alii during the time of the unification of the Kingdom of Hawaii.His name means Keōua of the "red altar"....
, was not happy about this and provoked Kamehameha. The forces met just south of the bay at the battle of Mokuōhai
Battle of Moku'ohai
The Battle of Mokuōhai, fought in 1782 on the island of Hawaii, was a key battle in the early days of Kamehameha I's wars to conquer the Hawaiian Islands...
.
Kamehameha won control of the west and north sides of the island, but Keōua escaped. It would take over a decade to consolidate his control.
In 1786, merchant ships of the King George's Sound Company
King George's Sound Company
The King George's Sound Company, also known as Richard Cadman Etches and Company after its "prime mover and principal investor", was an English company formed in 1785 for the Maritime Fur Trade on the northwest coast of North America...
under command of the maritime fur trade
Maritime Fur Trade
The Maritime Fur Trade was a ship-based fur trade system that focused on acquiring furs of sea otters and other animals from the indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast and natives of Alaska. The furs were mostly sold in China in exchange for tea, silks, porcelain, and other Chinese...
rs Nathaniel Portlock and Captain George Dixon anchored in the harbor, but avoided coming ashore since they had been on Cook's voyage he met his demise. In December 1788, the Iphigenia arrived with Chief Kaiana, who had already traveled to China. The first American ship was probably the Lady Washington
Lady Washington
Lady Washington is a ship name that is shared by at least 4 different small wooden merchant sailing vessels during two different time periods. They should not be confused with USS Lady Washington. The original sailed for about 10 years in the 18th century. A somewhat updated modern replica was...
around this time under Captain John Kendrick
John Kendrick (American sea captain)
John Kendrick was an American sea captain, both during the American Revolutionary War and the exploration and maritime fur trading of the Pacific Northwest alongside his partner Robert Gray.-Early life:...
. Two sailors, Parson Howel and James Boyd, left the ship (in 1790 or when it returned in 1793) and lived on the island.
In March 1790, the American ship Eleanora arrived at Kealakekua Bay and sent a British sailor ashore named John Young
John Young (Hawaii)
John Young was a British subject who became an important military advisor to Kamehameha I during the formation of the Kingdom of Hawaii. He was left behind by Simon Metcalfe, captain of the American ship Eleanora, and along with a Welshmen Isaac Davis became a friend and advisor to Kamehameha...
, to determine if the sister ship, the schooner Fair American, had arrived for its planned rendezvous. Young was detained by Kamehameha's men, in order to prevent the Eleanora's Captain Simon Metcalfe
Simon Metcalfe
Simon Metcalfe was a British American surveyor and one of the first American maritime fur traders to visit the Pacific Northwest coast...
from hearing the news of the demise of the Fair American, including the death of Metcalfe's son, after the massacre at Olowalu
Olowalu, Hawaii
Olowalu is a community on the island of Maui in the state of Hawaii. It was the site of an incident in 1790 that had implications on the history of the Hawaiian Islands.-Pu'u Honua:...
. Young and Isaac Davis
Isaac Davis (Hawaii)
Isaac Davis was a Welsh advisor to Kamehameha I and helped form the Kingdom of Hawaii. He arrived in Hawaii in 1790 as the sole survivor of the massacre of the crew of The Fair American. He along with John Young became friends and advisors to Kamehameha...
, the lone survivor of the Fair American, slowly adjusted to the island lifestyle. They instructed Hawaiians in the use of the captured cannon and muskets, becoming respected advisors to Kamehameha. In 1791 Spanish explorer Manuel Quimper
Manuel Quimper
Manuel Quimper Benítez del Pino was a Spanish Peruvian explorer, cartographer, naval officer, and colonial official. He participated in charting the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Sandwich Islands in the late 18th century. He was later appointed a colonial governor in his native Peru at the...
visited on the ship Princess Royal
Princess Royal (sloop)
Princess Royal was a British merchant ship that sailed on fur trading ventures in the late 1780s, and was captured at Nootka Sound by Esteban José Martínez of Spain during the Nootka Crisis of 1789...
. For an unusual account about the circumstances surrounding Cook's death see Val Wake's article Who Killed Captain Cook AQ journal of contemporary analysis Vol 75 issue 3 May–June 2003. In his article Wake claims that Cook was the victim of a Polynesian political plot by Kamehameha. Wake believes that Cook's death was organised by Kamehameha to discredit the priests and strengthen his claim to the Hawaiian throne. In other words Cook's death was a political assassination and not the random killing by an unruly native mob. Wake's quotes a number of sources for his theory including J.C. Beaglehole who has written the definitive guide to Cook's life and voyages.
More visitors
Although his story is not as dramatic as Cook's, another important visitor,George Vancouver
George Vancouver
Captain George Vancouver RN was an English officer of the British Royal Navy, best known for his 1791-95 expedition, which explored and charted North America's northwestern Pacific Coast regions, including the coasts of contemporary Alaska, British Columbia, Washington and Oregon...
arrived to winter in the islands in March 1792 with a small fleet of British ships. He had been a young midshipman on Cook's fatal voyage 13 years earlier and commanded the party to attempt to recover Cook's remains. This time he avoided anchoring in Kealakekua Bay, but did meet some canoes who were interested in trading. The common request was for firearms, which Vancouver resisted. One included chief Kaiana, who would later turn against Kamehameha. He suspected Kaiana intended to seize his ships, so left him behind and headed up the coast. There he was surprised to encounter a Hawaiian who in broken English introduced himself as "Jack", and told of traveling to America on a fur-trading ship. Through him, Vancouver met Keeaumoku Pāpaiahiahi
Keeaumoku Papaiahiahi
Keeaumoku Pāpaiahiahi was a Hawaiian high chief and the father of Kaahumanu. He was the principal agent in elevating Kamehameha I to the throne of Hawaii and served in a capacity similar to commander in chief or Prime Minister...
, who gave him a favorable impression of Kamehameha (his son-in-law). He spent the rest of the winter in Oahu
Oahu
Oahu or Oahu , known as "The Gathering Place", is the third largest of the Hawaiian Islands and most populous of the islands in the U.S. state of Hawaii. The state capital Honolulu is located on the southeast coast...
.
Vancouver returned in February 1793, and this time picked up Keeaumoku and anchored in Kealakekua Bay. When Kamehameha came to greet the ship, he brought John Young, now fluent in the Hawaiian Language, as an interpreter. This greatly helped to develop a trusted trading relationship instead of the escalating theft and violence that surrounded their meeting 14 years before. The Hawaiians presented a war game which was often part of the Makahiki celebration. Impressed by the warrior's abilities, Vancouver fired off some fireworks at night to demonstrate his military technology.
Vancouver presented some cattle that had been picked up in California. They were weak and barely alive, so he convinced Kamehameha to avoid killing them for ten years.
Scottish doctor James Lind
James Lind
James Lind FRSE FRCPE was a Scottish physician. He was a pioneer of naval hygiene in the Royal Navy. By conducting the first ever clinical trial, he developed the theory that citrus fruits cured scurvy...
had recommended the use of citrus juice to prevent scurvy
Scurvy
Scurvy is a disease resulting from a deficiency of vitamin C, which is required for the synthesis of collagen in humans. The chemical name for vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is derived from the Latin name of scurvy, scorbutus, which also provides the adjective scorbutic...
on long voyages. The botanist Archibald Menzies
Archibald Menzies
Archibald Menzies was a Scottish surgeon, botanist and naturalist.- Life and career :Menzies was born at Easter Stix in the parish of Weem, in Perthshire. While working with his elder brother William at the Royal Botanic Gardens, he drew the attention of Dr John Hope, professor of botany at...
had picked up some citrus fruit seeds in South Africa, and dropped them off here, so that future ships might be able to replenish their stocks at the Hawaiian islands.
Vancouver left in March 1793 after visiting the other islands to continue his expedition, and returned again January 13, 1794. He still hoped to broker a truce between Kamehameha and the other islands. His first step was to reconcile Kamehameha with Queen Kaahumanu.
He dropped off more cattle and sheep from California, and discovered a cow left the year before had delivered a calf. The cattle were eventually to become pests, until the "Hawaiian Cowboys" known as the Paniolo were recruited.
The ship's carpenters instructed the Hawaiians and the British advisors how to build a 36 feet (11 m) European-style ship, which they named the Britania. On February 25, 1794, Vancouver gathered leaders from around the island onto his ship and negotiated a treaty. Although sometimes called "ceding" Hawaii to Great Britain, the treaty was never ratified by British Parliament.
Decline
For the next few years, Kamehameha was engaged in his war campaigns, and then spent his last years at KamakahonuKamakahonu
Kamakahonu, the residence of Kamehameha I, was located at the North end of Kailua Bay in Kailua-Kona on Hawaiʻi Island.-History:Kamehameha I , who unified the Hawaiian Islands, lived out the last years of his life and instituted some of the most constructive measures of his reign here...
to the north. By this time other harbors such as Lahaina and Honolulu became popular with visiting ships. By 1804, the heiau was falling into disuse. In 1814, a British ship HMS Forrester
HMS Forester (1806)
HMS Forester was a Royal Navy 18-gun built by John King and launched in 1806 at Dover. After a relatively uneventful career she was sold in 1819.-Service:...
arrived in the midsts of a mutiny, and Otto von Kotzebue
Otto von Kotzebue
Otto von Kotzebue was a Baltic German navigator in Russian service....
arrived on a mission from the Russian Empire
Russian Empire
The Russian Empire was a state that existed from 1721 until the Russian Revolution of 1917. It was the successor to the Tsardom of Russia and the predecessor of the Soviet Union...
in 1816.
When Kamehameha I died in 1819, his oldest son Liholiho officially inherited the kingdom, calling himself Kamehameha II
Kamehameha II
Kamehameha II was the second king of the Kingdom of Hawaii. His birth name was Liholiho and full name was Kalaninui kua Liholiho i ke kapu Iolani...
. His nephew Keaoua Kekuaokalani
Keaoua Kekuaokalani
Keaoua Kekua-o-kalani was a nephew of Kamehameha I, the chief from the Big Island of Hawaii who had unified the Hawaiian islands. He was the son of Kamehameha's half brother Kealiimaikai and Kamehameha's half-sister Kiilaweau. After Kamehameha died in 1819, Keaoua rebelled against Kamehameha's...
inherited the important military and religious post of guardian of Kūkailimoku
Kū
In Hawaiian mythology Kū or Kū-ka-ili-moku is one of the four great gods along with Kanaloa, Kāne, and Lono.He is known as the god of war and the husband of the goddess Hina. Some have taken this to suggest a complementary dualism, as the word kū in the Hawaiian language means "standing up" while...
. However, true power was held by Kamehameha's widow Queen kaahumanu. She had been convinced by Vancouver and other visitors that the European customs should be adopted, and in the Ai Noa
'Ai Noa
The Ai Noa , was a period of taboo-breaking which convulsed the Hawaiian Islands in 1819. Women were allowed to eat forbidden food and to eat with men; the priests were no longer to offer human sacrifices; the many prohibitions surrounding the high chiefs were relaxed.Kamehameha I, the conqueror of...
declared an end to the old Kapu
Kapu
Kapu refers to the ancient Hawaiian code of conduct of laws and regulations. The kapu system was universal in lifestyle, gender roles, politics, religion, etc. An offense that was kapu was often a corporal offense, but also often denoted a threat to spiritual power, or theft of mana. Kapus were...
system.
Kekuaokalani was outraged by this threat to the old traditions, which still were respected by most common people. He gathered religious supporters at Kaawaloa, threatening to take the kingdom by force as happened 37 years earlier. After a failed attempt to negotiate peace, he marched his army north to meet Kalanimoku
Kalanimoku
William Pitt Kalanimoku was a High Chief who functioned similar to a prime minister of the Hawaiian Kingdom during the reigns of Kamehameha I, Kamehameha II and the beginning of the reign of Kamehameha III. He was called The Iron Cable of Hawaii because of his abilities.-Life:Kalanimoku was born ...
's troops who were gathered at Kamakahonu. They met in the Battle of Kuamoo. Both sides had muskets, but Kalanimoku had cannon mounted on double-hulled canoes, and devastated the fighters for the old religion, who still lie buried in the lava rock.
In 1825, Admiral Lord Byron
George Byron, 7th Baron Byron
Admiral George Anson Byron, 7th Baron Byron was a British naval officer, and the seventh Baron Byron, in 1824 succeeding his cousin the poet George Gordon Byron in that peerage...
(cousin of the famous poet) on the ship erected a monument to Cook and removed many of the old artifacts.
The last royalty known to live here was high chief Naihe
Naihe
Naihe was the chief orator and councilor during the founding of the Kingdom of Hawaii. A champion athlete in his youth, he negotiated for peace at several critical times, and helped preserve the remains of several ancient leaders.-Early life:...
known as the "national orator" and his wife Chiefess Kapiolani
Chiefess Kapiolani
High Chiefess Kapiolani was an important member of the Hawaiian nobility at the time of the founding of the Kingdom of Hawaii and the arrival of Christian missionaries...
, early converts to Christianity.
In 1829, she was saddened to find the destruction of the temples included desecrating the bones of her ancestors at the Puuhonua o Hōnaunau
Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park
Puuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park is a United States National Historical Park located on the west coast of the island of Hawaii in the U.S. state of Hawaii. The historical park preserves the site where, up until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke a kapu could avoid certain...
.
She removed the remains of the old chiefs and hid them in the Pali Kapu O Keōua cliffs. She then ordered this last temple to be destroyed. The bones were later moved to the Royal Mausoleum of Hawaii
Royal Mausoleum of Hawaii
The Royal Mausoleum of Hawaii, known as Mauna Ala in the Hawaiian language, is the final resting place of Hawaii's two prominent royal families: the Kamehameha Dynasty and the Kalākaua Dynasty.-Description:...
in 1858, under direction of King Kamehameha IV
Kamehameha IV
Kamehameha IV, born Alexander Iolani Liholiho Keawenui , reigned as the fourth king of the Kingdom of Hawaii from January 11, 1855 to November 30, 1863.-Early life:...
.
In 1839 a massive stone church was built just south of the bay. It fell into ruin, and a smaller building called Kahikolu Church
Kahikolu Church
Kahikolu Church is one of only two stone churches from the 19th century on the island of Hawaii. It was built from 1852–1855 on the site of an earlier building known as Kealakekua Church that was built around 1833 in the Kona district.-History:...
was built in 1852. This also fell into ruin, but has been rebuilt.
In 1894 a wharf was constructed at the village at the south of the bay, now called Napoopoo. A steamer landed in the early 20th century when Kona coffee
Kona coffee
Kona coffee is the market name for coffee cultivated on the slopes of Hualalai and Mauna Loa in the North and South Kona Districts of the Big Island of Hawaii. It is one of the most expensive coffees in the world. Only coffee from the Kona Districts can be described as "Kona"...
became a popular crop in the upland areas.
A large white stone monument was built in 1874 on the order of Princess Likelike
Likelike
Miriam Kapili Kekāuluohi Likelike was a Princess of the Kingdom of Hawaii, sister of the last two ruling monarchs, mother of Princess Kaiulani, last heir to the throne, and mistress of the [[ʻĀinahau]] estate.-Life:...
and was deeded to the United Kingdom
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern IrelandIn the United Kingdom and Dependencies, other languages have been officially recognised as legitimate autochthonous languages under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages...
in 1877. The chain around the monument is supported by four cannon from the ship HMS Fantome placed with their breaches embedded in the rock in 1876. It marks the approximate location of Cook's death. It is located at coordinates . The inscription reads:
In Memory of
the great circumnavigator
Captain James Cook, R.N.
who discovered these islands on the 18th of
January, 1778, and fell near this spot on
the 14th of February, 1779.
Unfortunately you cannot simply drive to the monument; this remote location is only accessible by water or a steep trail. Many visitors rent a kayak
Kayak
A kayak is a small, relatively narrow, human-powered boat primarily designed to be manually propelled by means of a double blade paddle.The traditional kayak has a covered deck and one or more cockpits, each seating one paddler...
and paddle across the bay, about 1.5 miles (2.4 km) from its southern end. The pier at Napoopoo can be accessed down a narrow road off the Hawaii Belt Road.
The beach sand was mostly removed by Hurricane Iniki
Hurricane Iniki
Hurricane Iniki was the most powerful hurricane to strike the U.S. state of Hawaii in recorded history. Forming on September 5 during the strong El Niño of 1991–1994, Iniki was one of eleven Central Pacific tropical cyclones during the 1992 season. It attained tropical storm status on...
in 1992.
Boat tours are also available leaving from Honokōhau harbor, Keauhou Bay
Keauhou Bay
Keauhou Bay is a historic area in the Kona District of the Big Island of Hawaii.The name comes from ke au hou which means "the new era" in the Hawaiian Language.-Kamehameha III's Birthplace:...
, and the Kailua pier.
Hawaiian Spinner Dolphin
Spinner Dolphin
The Spinner Dolphin is a small dolphin found in off-shore tropical waters around the world. It is famous for its acrobatic displays in which they spin longitudinally along their axis as they leap through the air.-Taxonomy:...
s frequent Kealakekua Bay, especially in the morning. The bay serves as a place for them to rest and feed, and as a nursery for mothers and their calves. Due to the calm water conditions, extensive coral reef, and thriving underwater life, Kealakekua Bay offers some of the best snorkeling and diving in Hawaii. The shallow waters adjacent to the monument are best for snorkeling and Scuba diving.
About 180 acre (0.7284348 km²) around the bay was designated a State Historic Park in 1967, and it was added as a Historic District to the National Register of Historic Places
National Register of Historic Places
The National Register of Historic Places is the United States government's official list of districts, sites, buildings, structures, and objects deemed worthy of preservation...
in 1973 as site 73000651. The 315 acres (1.3 km²) of the bay itself were declared a Marine Life Conservation District in 1969.
A narrow one-lane road to the south leads to Puuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park
Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park
Puuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park is a United States National Historical Park located on the west coast of the island of Hawaii in the U.S. state of Hawaii. The historical park preserves the site where, up until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke a kapu could avoid certain...
, which contains more historic sites, and is another snorkel spot.
Pop culture
In Arthur C. ClarkeArthur C. Clarke
Sir Arthur Charles Clarke, CBE, FRAS was a British science fiction author, inventor, and futurist, famous for his short stories and novels, among them 2001: A Space Odyssey, and as a host and commentator in the British television series Mysterious World. For many years, Robert A. Heinlein,...
's book Rendezvous with Rama
Rendezvous with Rama
Rendezvous with Rama is a novel by Arthur C. Clarke first published in 1972. Set in the 22nd century, the story involves a cylindrical alien starship that enters Earth's solar system...
, Kealakekua Bay is mentioned as a place where the Commander of the Space Survey Vessel Endeavour
Endeavour
- Organizations :* Endeavor , a non-profit organization based in New York, New York* Endeavour , a non-profit organisation in Queensland, Australia* Christian Endeavor International...
, Bill Norton, visited.
The 1933 song My Little Grass Shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii
My Little Grass Shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii
My Little Grass Shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii was a popular song written for the July 4th canoe races in Kona in 1933. Tommy Harrison gave the song to Johnny Noble to publish, who revised the music to give it a new melody without changing Bill Cogswell's words. Once published, the song became a major...
mentions the state fish which can be found in the bay: the Humuhumunukunukuapuaa (Reef triggerfish
Reef triggerfish
The reef, rectangular, or wedge-tail triggerfish, also known by its Hawaiian name, humuhumunukunukuāpuaa , also spelled Humuhumunukunukuapua'a or just humuhumu for short; meaning "triggerfish with a snout like a pig"), is one of several species of triggerfish...
).