Hair weave
Encyclopedia
A hair weave is a very general term used to describe human or artificial hair used to alter one's natural hair appearance by adding additional hair to one's natural hair or by covering the natural hair altogether with human or synthetic hair pieces. The highest-quality extension hair is Indian human remy hair. Remy hair still possesses the cuticle
layer, which is the outermost part of the hair strand; it resembles shingles on a roof. All remy hair has the cuticle layer of the hair flowing in the same direction, flowing the way it would naturally. The cuticle layer is important when concerned with hair tangling, longevity of the use(up to one year), and how well the hair shines. When the cuticle layer is intact and lying flat, the hair is capable of reflecting light, so that the hair shines.
Some of the benefits of hair weaves are that they can lengthen hair, add volume and/or thickness to fine or thinning hair, add fashion colors to natural hair without the damage of chemicals, or change the user's appearance by adopting a different hair texture than that of their natural hair. Since the 1990s, weaves have been particularly popular among African American
women opting for a straight-hair look. The process of adding colors to natural hair is usually done with strand-by-strand extension systems. One type of application is called a sew-in. Weft hair can also be applied by gluing directly to the natural hair using hair glue specifically made for hair weaves. The glue can be easily washed out using a special shampoo
/conditioner
that will remove the glue without removing the real hair. A special glue remover may also be used.
Extension hair refers to the weave hair being applied strand by strand rather than in long, sewn-together rows. Strand-by-strand hair has approximately 50-80 strands attached by keratin
tips resembling the end of a shoe string. These can then be attached by bonding directly to the hair or using copper links, which provides the most natural look. The method is the most time-consuming, as between 100 to 300 individual extensions are applied. The amount of time necessary makes this type of application a more expensive service than other options. Other types of extensions include ponytail
s or ponytail pieces. Just like any wig
or wigpiece, the colors for hair to be weaved can range from "realistic" colors, such as black, red, brown, and blonde, to colors such as pink, blue, green, and purple.
Non-remy hair comes in two types:
Single drawn is of a slightly lower quality than double-drawn hair. The hairs will have up to a 2" difference in the tips; that is, some hairs will be up to 2" shorter than their original lengths. Double drawn hair is similar to remy double drawn wefts in that all hairs are the same length.
Three qualities are designated:
s. Synthetic hair, just like human hair, comes in weave (weft) and single strands (bulk) for braids. Synthetic hair does not last as long as human hair because it gets quickly damaged by friction, and heat. The quality of hair varies greatly, and if well maintained, synthetic hair can last up to a year. Depending on quality, it may never look like human hair, as it can be stiff and move differently than human hair. Synthetic hair is much less expensive than human hair. The costs can range from $1 to $10 per package of loose braiding hair and $10 to $20 per package of wefted hair, and around $40-$300 for a full wig, depending on quality of hair, length, brand, etc.
Heating appliances such as curling irons and straightening combs generally should never be used on most types of synthetic hair. There are newer versions of synthetic hair from some brands that can be heat styled, know your supplier, and keep a strand to test before you install, to check temperature setting on your heat tool.
Typically when the synthetic hair is shaped it is best not to change it unless you are experienced in how to manipulate synthetic hair.
, in three layers. The inner layer is called the medulla
and may not be present. The next layer is the cortex
and the outer layer is the cuticle
. The cortex makes up the majority of the hair shaft. The cuticle is formed by tightly packed scales in an overlapping structure similar to roof shingles. Most hair-conditioning products attempt to affect the cuticle. There are pigment cells that are distributed throughout the cortex, giving the hair its characteristic color.
The cuticle is a hard shingle-like layer of overlapping cells, some five to twelve deep, formed from dead cells that form scales which give the hair shaft strength and protect the inner structure of the hair. The hair cuticle is the first line of defense against all forms of damage; it acts as a protective barrier for the softer inner structures, including the medulla and cortex.
The cuticle is responsible for much of the mechanical strength of the hair fiber. A healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer, as the cuticle also controls the water content of the fiber. Much of the shine that makes healthy hair so attractive is due to the cuticle.
In the hair industry, the only way to obtain the very best hair (with cuticle intact and facing the same direction) is to use the services of "hair collectors," who cut the hair directly from people's heads, and bundle it as ponytails. This hair is called virgin cuticle hair, or just cuticle hair.
Most human hair used for weaves and wigs is obtained from Asia
(perhaps most often China, India, and Korea). It is collected from barbers' floors or Indian temple floors and aggressively treated with acid and other chemicals. These chemicals destroy the cuticle partly or totally. (Lower-quality "human hair" extensions are sometimes even mixed with animal and synthetic hair to lower the price, but this is rare, and uncommon.) In the hair industry, this hair is commonly called stripped hair.
The "remy" designation originally meant that the cuticles face the direction in which they grew, but this description is no longer accurate. The word "remy" is being abused on the market, and generally accompanies processed packaged hair.
European hair is a popular form of hair. It has a straight and soft texture. Adequate care must be taken as the market is flooded with fakes.
Bonding may also refer to the attachment of toupees (and custom wigs) with a medical grade adhesive. There are 2 types of bonds: soft bond which dries in the consistency of rubber glue and hard bond which dries to the consistency of epoxy glue. Hard bond is only recommended for the small number of people for which soft bond does not hold properly. These permanent bond attachments generally last 4–6 weeks before a maintenance appointment is necessary.
To sew the weave hair, the stylist must first braid the hair into cornrows. The hair may also be braided into a zig-zag shape to make things easier and quicker. The wearer may leave out a section of hair if she or he wants a part or half the hair weaved. So the hair won't appear lumpy, the hair is sewn horizontally across the head from one side to the other, starting from the bottom. If the hair is to have a parting, it is recommended that a weft
of hair be glued as close as possible to a part in the hair that separates the braids and the hair that the wearer left out. After those steps are finished, the wearer can have the weave hair cut or styled
however she or he wants, with her or his own hair blending in.
A full head could use about anywhere between 100-300 sections. It is recommended that a trained and certified stylist use this technique because of potential hair loss and possible burning of the skin by the appliance.
Recently, cold-fusion extensions made of 100% human hair have been introduced. These companies claim to use no heat, and therefore be less damaging, however the fusion is melted using radio-waves, much like a microwave. Correctly installed fusion uses less heat than a typical curling iron, and therefore damage with properly installed fusion should not be a concern.
associated with glue extensions. The hair weft has small toupee clips sewn onto them. Usually a set of clip-in extensions averages eight strips of human hair in varying widths from two inches to eight inches. Usually starting at the nape of the neck, the hair is sectioned neatly, then the weft is placed onto this section with the clips open and facing the scalp. Each clip is snapped into place. It can be useful to lightly backcomb each section for a more secure grip. This is repeated until each clip-in weft is in place. Clip-ins can be worn all day and all night, but they must be removed before sleeping. Some people wear clip-ins just for night life, while others wear them every day to work. This shows the versatility of this type of hair extension. Natural hair extensions can be removed, which makes it easier to style them.
mesh material formed into a cap that is then hand-ventilated by knotting single strands of hair into the tiny openings of the cap form, giving the hair a more natural, realistic flow than conventional extensions, and creating a lighter, more breathable cap. These extension units can be woven in or attached to the hairline with special adhesives. To ensure a proper fit, head measurements are taken into account with this type of weave.
Cuticle (hair)
The hair cuticle is the outermost part of the hair shaft. It is a hard shingle-like layer of overlapping cells, some five to twelve deep. It is formed from dead cells which form scales that gives the hair shaft strength and do the best job of providing protection for it...
layer, which is the outermost part of the hair strand; it resembles shingles on a roof. All remy hair has the cuticle layer of the hair flowing in the same direction, flowing the way it would naturally. The cuticle layer is important when concerned with hair tangling, longevity of the use(up to one year), and how well the hair shines. When the cuticle layer is intact and lying flat, the hair is capable of reflecting light, so that the hair shines.
Some of the benefits of hair weaves are that they can lengthen hair, add volume and/or thickness to fine or thinning hair, add fashion colors to natural hair without the damage of chemicals, or change the user's appearance by adopting a different hair texture than that of their natural hair. Since the 1990s, weaves have been particularly popular among African American
African American
African Americans are citizens or residents of the United States who have at least partial ancestry from any of the native populations of Sub-Saharan Africa and are the direct descendants of enslaved Africans within the boundaries of the present United States...
women opting for a straight-hair look. The process of adding colors to natural hair is usually done with strand-by-strand extension systems. One type of application is called a sew-in. Weft hair can also be applied by gluing directly to the natural hair using hair glue specifically made for hair weaves. The glue can be easily washed out using a special shampoo
Shampoo
Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair...
/conditioner
Hair conditioner
Hair conditioner is a hair care product that alters the texture and appearance of hair.-History:For centuries, natural oils have been used to condition human hair. These natural products are still used today, including essential oils such as tea tree oil and carrier oils such as jojoba oil...
that will remove the glue without removing the real hair. A special glue remover may also be used.
Extension hair refers to the weave hair being applied strand by strand rather than in long, sewn-together rows. Strand-by-strand hair has approximately 50-80 strands attached by keratin
Keratin
Keratin refers to a family of fibrous structural proteins. Keratin is the key of structural material making up the outer layer of human skin. It is also the key structural component of hair and nails...
tips resembling the end of a shoe string. These can then be attached by bonding directly to the hair or using copper links, which provides the most natural look. The method is the most time-consuming, as between 100 to 300 individual extensions are applied. The amount of time necessary makes this type of application a more expensive service than other options. Other types of extensions include ponytail
Ponytail
A ponytail is a hairstyle in which most or all of the hair on the head is pulled away from the face, gathered and secured at the back of the head with a hair tie, clip or similar device, and allowed to hang freely from that point. It gets its name from its resemblance to the undocked tail of a...
s or ponytail pieces. Just like any wig
Wig
A wig is a head of hair made from horsehair, human hair, wool, feathers, yak hair, buffalo hair, or synthetic materials which is worn on the head for fashion or various other aesthetic and stylistic reasons, including cultural and religious observance. The word wig is short for periwig and first...
or wigpiece, the colors for hair to be weaved can range from "realistic" colors, such as black, red, brown, and blonde, to colors such as pink, blue, green, and purple.
Non-remy wefts
Non-remy hair is perhaps the most popular and commonly available form of hair. It is also known as fallen hair. The roots and tips of hairs are all mixed up in non-remy hair; tangling is therefore a problem as the opposing cuticle layers catch on each other, but as the most inexpensive type of hair, it is the best seller.Non-remy hair comes in two types:
- Normal non-remy hair: generally the least expensive type of hair. The cuticles are present in different directions, and the hair is prone to tangling.
- Tangle-free non-remy hair: obtained by chemically removing the cuticles using an acid bath. This process reduces the friction among hairs, and what remains is tangle-free hair. In order to give the appearance of natural healthy hair, a laminate is applied to the hair to give it shine and silkiness. This laminate rinses away fairly quickly after a few washes, and the hair will look dry and frizzy.
Single drawn is of a slightly lower quality than double-drawn hair. The hairs will have up to a 2" difference in the tips; that is, some hairs will be up to 2" shorter than their original lengths. Double drawn hair is similar to remy double drawn wefts in that all hairs are the same length.
Three qualities are designated:
- Quality A: consists of tangle-free non-remy hair with the cuticles shaved off or smoothened out. The entire weft consists of hairs of the same length, with no short hair. This is a premium quality weft.
- Quality B: the next quality in wefts made up of non-remy hair. They are also tangle-free and have their cuticles removed. They are made up of special double drawn hair, with hair length of two inch difference, with no short hair.
- Quality C: the final quality of wefts, made up of tangle free non-remy hair. The cuticles are again removed and the hair used is single drawn. This makes the entire weft have hairs of different length.
Synthetic hair
Synthetic hair is made of a wide array of different synthetic fiberSynthetic fiber
Synthetic fibers are the result of extensive research by scientists to improve on naturally occurring animal and plant fibers. In general, synthetic fibers are created by forcing, usually through extrusion, fiber forming materials through holes into the air, forming a thread...
s. Synthetic hair, just like human hair, comes in weave (weft) and single strands (bulk) for braids. Synthetic hair does not last as long as human hair because it gets quickly damaged by friction, and heat. The quality of hair varies greatly, and if well maintained, synthetic hair can last up to a year. Depending on quality, it may never look like human hair, as it can be stiff and move differently than human hair. Synthetic hair is much less expensive than human hair. The costs can range from $1 to $10 per package of loose braiding hair and $10 to $20 per package of wefted hair, and around $40-$300 for a full wig, depending on quality of hair, length, brand, etc.
Heating appliances such as curling irons and straightening combs generally should never be used on most types of synthetic hair. There are newer versions of synthetic hair from some brands that can be heat styled, know your supplier, and keep a strand to test before you install, to check temperature setting on your heat tool.
Typically when the synthetic hair is shaped it is best not to change it unless you are experienced in how to manipulate synthetic hair.
Human hair
The hair shaft is made up of dead, hard protein, called keratinKeratin
Keratin refers to a family of fibrous structural proteins. Keratin is the key of structural material making up the outer layer of human skin. It is also the key structural component of hair and nails...
, in three layers. The inner layer is called the medulla
Medulla (hair)
-Importance in forensics:Hair can easily be discredited as belonging to a human with the presence of medulla. Most other mammals possess one which is easily visible under a microscope. Humans of Middle-Eastern origin, however, do, in fact, possess a thin, less visible medulla...
and may not be present. The next layer is the cortex
Cortex (hair)
The cortex of the hair shaft is located between the hair cuticle and medulla....
and the outer layer is the cuticle
Cuticle
A cuticle , or cuticula, is a term used for any of a variety of tough but flexible, non-mineral outer coverings of an organism, or parts of an organism, that provide protection. Various types of "cuticles" are non-homologous; differing in their origin, structure, function, and chemical composition...
. The cortex makes up the majority of the hair shaft. The cuticle is formed by tightly packed scales in an overlapping structure similar to roof shingles. Most hair-conditioning products attempt to affect the cuticle. There are pigment cells that are distributed throughout the cortex, giving the hair its characteristic color.
The cuticle is a hard shingle-like layer of overlapping cells, some five to twelve deep, formed from dead cells that form scales which give the hair shaft strength and protect the inner structure of the hair. The hair cuticle is the first line of defense against all forms of damage; it acts as a protective barrier for the softer inner structures, including the medulla and cortex.
The cuticle is responsible for much of the mechanical strength of the hair fiber. A healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer, as the cuticle also controls the water content of the fiber. Much of the shine that makes healthy hair so attractive is due to the cuticle.
In the hair industry, the only way to obtain the very best hair (with cuticle intact and facing the same direction) is to use the services of "hair collectors," who cut the hair directly from people's heads, and bundle it as ponytails. This hair is called virgin cuticle hair, or just cuticle hair.
Most human hair used for weaves and wigs is obtained from Asia
Asia
Asia is the world's largest and most populous continent, located primarily in the eastern and northern hemispheres. It covers 8.7% of the Earth's total surface area and with approximately 3.879 billion people, it hosts 60% of the world's current human population...
(perhaps most often China, India, and Korea). It is collected from barbers' floors or Indian temple floors and aggressively treated with acid and other chemicals. These chemicals destroy the cuticle partly or totally. (Lower-quality "human hair" extensions are sometimes even mixed with animal and synthetic hair to lower the price, but this is rare, and uncommon.) In the hair industry, this hair is commonly called stripped hair.
The "remy" designation originally meant that the cuticles face the direction in which they grew, but this description is no longer accurate. The word "remy" is being abused on the market, and generally accompanies processed packaged hair.
Indian hair and European hair
Indian hair has its own inherent advantages: it is simultaneously thin and strong. The hair comes most often from people who have had their heads shaved for religious purposes in Tirupati, India. Indian hair is typically available as Remi Virgin hair or Remi hair.European hair is a popular form of hair. It has a straight and soft texture. Adequate care must be taken as the market is flooded with fakes.
Bonding
Bonding is a popular temporary weaving method and a great way to add volume or vibrant streaks of color to your natural hair. Tracks of hair are glued to the roots of your own hair with a special adhesive. To prevent damage to your natural hair, tracks shouldn't be left for any longer than a week or two.Bonding may also refer to the attachment of toupees (and custom wigs) with a medical grade adhesive. There are 2 types of bonds: soft bond which dries in the consistency of rubber glue and hard bond which dries to the consistency of epoxy glue. Hard bond is only recommended for the small number of people for which soft bond does not hold properly. These permanent bond attachments generally last 4–6 weeks before a maintenance appointment is necessary.
Tracking
In tracking, or sewn in methods, natural tresses are first braided into cornrows, and referred to as a "track". A weave can consist of a few tracks, or the whole head can be braided for a full head weave. With a full head weave, the braids are sewn down or covered with a net. Extensions are then sewn to the braids. The number of tracks depends on the desired look. Care for this style as you would your natural hair, washing at least once a week but making sure to dry the braids well, to avoid bacteria growth and odor.To sew the weave hair, the stylist must first braid the hair into cornrows. The hair may also be braided into a zig-zag shape to make things easier and quicker. The wearer may leave out a section of hair if she or he wants a part or half the hair weaved. So the hair won't appear lumpy, the hair is sewn horizontally across the head from one side to the other, starting from the bottom. If the hair is to have a parting, it is recommended that a weft
Weft
In weaving, weft or woof is the yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create cloth. In North America, it is sometimes referred to as the "fill" or the "filling yarn"....
of hair be glued as close as possible to a part in the hair that separates the braids and the hair that the wearer left out. After those steps are finished, the wearer can have the weave hair cut or styled
Hairstyle
A hairstyle, hairdo, or haircut refers to the styling of hair, usually on the human head. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical, cultural, and popular considerations also influence some hairstyles.-History of...
however she or he wants, with her or his own hair blending in.
Fusion
The fusion method delivers one of the most versatile and most natural-looking weaves on the market. Traditionally with this technique, a machine similar to a hot glue gun is used to adhere human hair extensions to individual strands of one's natural hair (1/8 to 1/4 inch squared sections) for a truly authentic look. You may also purchase hair which is pre-tipped with a keratin adhesive, and using a heat clamp, heat and melt the adhesive to attach the extension hair to the natural hair. With a fusion weave, you can wash your hair every few days- every week and use products like gels and mousse to style. This is one of the most time-consuming (4-8 hours) and expensive methods (prices range from about $800 to $1,800).A full head could use about anywhere between 100-300 sections. It is recommended that a trained and certified stylist use this technique because of potential hair loss and possible burning of the skin by the appliance.
Recently, cold-fusion extensions made of 100% human hair have been introduced. These companies claim to use no heat, and therefore be less damaging, however the fusion is melted using radio-waves, much like a microwave. Correctly installed fusion uses less heat than a typical curling iron, and therefore damage with properly installed fusion should not be a concern.
NoBraidsNoGlue
NoBraids NoGlue is two pieces of thread are integrated into the natural tresses. Then the commercial hair is integrated into thread with two pieces of thread. It is based on "suspension bridge engineering": trusses and bridges are made with the thread. There is little damage with this technique because the stress is diffused throughout the foundation. This also means large sections of hair loss can easily be covered. It takes 45 minutes to 1 hour for a full head. Care for this style as you would your natural hair, washing at least every 7-14 days. Because there are no braids there are no lumps. The hair is sewn horizontally starting from the bottom. After these basic steps are finished, the wearer can pull the hair into a ponytail because all of her natural hair is out and blended in.Netting
Netting is a technique which involves braiding natural tresses under a thin, breathable net that serves as a flat surface onto which stylists can weave extensions. Netting provides more flexibility than track placement because the stylist is not limited to sewing extensions to a braid. This style can last for up to three months if properly maintained. To care for your hair, wash it once a week and invest in a hooded hair dryer or heated cap for at-home maintenance. You want to make sure your hair is completely dry so it will not mildew under the net at all.Tree braiding
In tree braiding, the artificial hair is incorporated into the client's natural hair with the use of a basic cornrow. The best hair length to use is 24 inch hair. The client's hair is parted from the front of the head to the nape of the neck. The artificial hair is added at the beginning of the braid by folding it in half to create a cornrow with a knot in the front. The stylist braids 2-4 strokes, then pulls out a piece of the artificial hair, then braids an additional 2-4 strokes and pulls out another piece of artificial hair. This pattern continues until all the artificial hair is pulled out. The stylist then adds additional artificial hair into the braid and continues the above pattern until it reaches the back. Then the stylist ties the end with a rubber band, or sews it down with weaving needle and string.Clip-in and clip-on hair extensions
This technique is the least permanent and can be very effective without the disadvantages such as traction alopeciaTraction alopecia
Traction alopecia is a form of alopecia, or gradual hair loss, caused primarily by pulling force being applied to the hair. This commonly results from the sufferer frequently wearing his/her hair in a particularly tight ponytail, pigtails, or braids...
associated with glue extensions. The hair weft has small toupee clips sewn onto them. Usually a set of clip-in extensions averages eight strips of human hair in varying widths from two inches to eight inches. Usually starting at the nape of the neck, the hair is sectioned neatly, then the weft is placed onto this section with the clips open and facing the scalp. Each clip is snapped into place. It can be useful to lightly backcomb each section for a more secure grip. This is repeated until each clip-in weft is in place. Clip-ins can be worn all day and all night, but they must be removed before sleeping. Some people wear clip-ins just for night life, while others wear them every day to work. This shows the versatility of this type of hair extension. Natural hair extensions can be removed, which makes it easier to style them.
Lace extensions
The most recent development in weaving extensions is lace extensions. Lace extensions are made from a nylonNylon
Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers known generically as polyamides, first produced on February 28, 1935, by Wallace Carothers at DuPont's research facility at the DuPont Experimental Station...
mesh material formed into a cap that is then hand-ventilated by knotting single strands of hair into the tiny openings of the cap form, giving the hair a more natural, realistic flow than conventional extensions, and creating a lighter, more breathable cap. These extension units can be woven in or attached to the hairline with special adhesives. To ensure a proper fit, head measurements are taken into account with this type of weave.