Dreamtime boulder
Encyclopedia
Dreamtime is a boulder problem
in Cresciano
, Switzerland
.
Its first ascent
(FA) was by Frederic Nicole
on 2000-10-28. It was once considered the benchmark V15
. Since that time, Dreamtime has allegedly been chipped and is reportedly easier, having been downgraded to 8B+. (Nicole claims that the use of wire brush
es to clean holds has damaged it.) Climbers Malcolm Smith and Dave Graham claim that it has always been 8B+, and Smith even doubts that it has been chipped.
There is also a stand-start-only variation which settled at 8A/8A+.
In 2009 a hold on broke on Dreamtime, the problem has seen ascents after the break.
Bouldering
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...
in Cresciano
Cresciano
Cresciano is a municipality in the district of Riviera in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland.-History:Cresciano is first mentioned in 1269 as Crazano....
, Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
.
Its first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
(FA) was by Frederic Nicole
Fred Nicole
Fred Nicole is a Swiss rock climber, notable for his numerous cutting edge first ascents. Nicole was the first climber to open a problem with the bouldering grades 8B, 8B+ and 8C....
on 2000-10-28. It was once considered the benchmark V15
Grade (bouldering)
In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades , Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District...
. Since that time, Dreamtime has allegedly been chipped and is reportedly easier, having been downgraded to 8B+. (Nicole claims that the use of wire brush
Wire brush
A wire brush is a tool, consisting of a handle, usually wood or plastic, occasionally bone, and a brush. The brush is usually made from a large number of steel wire bristles. The steel used is generally a high carbon variety and very hard. Other wire brushes feature bristles made from brass or...
es to clean holds has damaged it.) Climbers Malcolm Smith and Dave Graham claim that it has always been 8B+, and Smith even doubts that it has been chipped.
There is also a stand-start-only variation which settled at 8A/8A+.
In 2009 a hold on broke on Dreamtime, the problem has seen ascents after the break.