Fred Nicole
Encyclopedia
Fred Nicole is a Swiss rock climber, notable for his numerous cutting edge first ascent
s. Nicole was the first climber to open a problem with the bouldering grades
8B, 8B+ and 8C.
Like many elite rock climbers, Nicole refuses to grade his own climbs, suggesting that subjectivity and variation in climbing style make it too difficult to reliably grade problems.
Notable ascents:
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
s. Nicole was the first climber to open a problem with the bouldering grades
Grade (bouldering)
In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades , Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District...
8B, 8B+ and 8C.
Like many elite rock climbers, Nicole refuses to grade his own climbs, suggesting that subjectivity and variation in climbing style make it too difficult to reliably grade problems.
Notable ascents:
- les Danse des Balrogs V13/8B (The world's first), Branson, SwitzerlandSwitzerlandSwitzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
- Radja V14/8B+ (the world's first), Branson, SwitzerlandSwitzerlandSwitzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
- DreamtimeDreamtime boulderDreamtime is a boulder problem in Cresciano, Switzerland.Its first ascent was by Frederic Nicole on 2000-10-28. It was once considered the benchmark V15. Since that time, Dreamtime has allegedly been chipped and is reportedly easier, having been downgraded to 8B+...
. Cresciano, SwitzerlandSwitzerlandSwitzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
. (8B+/V14) This boulder was once considered 8C before it broke and was downgraded to 8B+. - Slashface V13/8B, Hueco Tanks, USA
- Fatman Sit-Start V13/8B, FontainebleauFontainebleauFontainebleau is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the arrondissement of Fontainebleau...
, FranceFranceThe French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France... - Pierre Philosophale V13/8B, FontainebleauFontainebleauFontainebleau is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the arrondissement of Fontainebleau...
, FranceFranceThe French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France... - Karma V12/8A+, FontainebleauFontainebleauFontainebleau is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the arrondissement of Fontainebleau...
, FranceFranceThe French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France... - Hale Bopp, V10/7C+, FontainebleauFontainebleauFontainebleau is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the arrondissement of Fontainebleau...
, FranceFranceThe French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France... - Terre de Seine, V14/8B+, Hueco Tanks, TX
- Terremer, V15/8C, Hueco Tanks State Park, TexasTexasTexas is the second largest U.S. state by both area and population, and the largest state by area in the contiguous United States.The name, based on the Caddo word "Tejas" meaning "friends" or "allies", was applied by the Spanish to the Caddo themselves and to the region of their settlement in...
, USA - link-up of Diaphanous Sea and Terre de Seine - El Techo de los Tres B, V14/8B+, Hueco Tanks State Park, TexasTexasTexas is the second largest U.S. state by both area and population, and the largest state by area in the contiguous United States.The name, based on the Caddo word "Tejas" meaning "friends" or "allies", was applied by the Spanish to the Caddo themselves and to the region of their settlement in...
, USA - Entlinge, V15/8C, Switzerland
- Amandla, V14/8B+, South Africa
- Repeated Witness the FitnessV15/8C, in The Ozarks, Arkansas on December 23, 2006. FA by Chris SharmaChris SharmaChris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber.-History:Chris Omprakash Sharma was raised in Santa Cruz, California, son of Gita Jahn and Bob Sharma. He started rock climbing when he was 12 at the Pacific Edge climbing gym...
. - Elfe, 8c+ in Grimsel, Switzerland (route, FA on 1997-03-01).
- Bain de Sang, 9a in Saint Loup, SwitzerlandSwitzerlandSwitzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
(route, FA on 1993-09-01). It is the world's third 9a, after Action DirecteAction Directe (climb)Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's. The first ascent was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence...
(FA in 1991 by Wolfgang GullichWolfgang GüllichWolfgang Güllich , was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.He first started climbing on the Sandstone-rocks of the 'Südpfalz'...
) and Om (FA in 1992 by Alexander HuberAlexander HuberAlexander Huber , is a German physicist, climber and mountaineer. He lives in Traunstein.When they were still young Alexander Huber and his brother Thomas Huber were taken into the mountains by their father, Thomas Huber, himself a noted climber known for early fast ascents of now classic climbs...
) Some have surmised that Bain de Sang is more likely 8c+. E.g., Iker Pou, who has repeated both routes, stated that Bain de Sang is a grade easier than the benchmark 9a Action Directe. Also, see Dave Graham. Fred Nicole and his brother Francois Nicole both assert that "Bain de sang" has been 'altered' after their respective first and second ascents, which may be why the grade has been disputed after subsequent repeats.
Trivia
- Nicole has jokingly asserted that Burger King Whoppers are his favorite food.
- Hueco Tanks is reputedly Nicole's favorite bouldering site, according to an assertion of his in 1990. In 2005, he opened new problems in this area that are thought to have a difficulty of V15 or harder (Terremer).
- Nicole made appearances in the movies 'Core' and 'Pure' by Chuck Fryberger films.