Alpine style
Encyclopedia
Alpine style refers to mountaineering
in a self-sufficient
manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style
(or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.
Many consider Alpine style to be the purest form of mountaineering, setting a standard to which all mountaineers should aspire. This style became well-known and popular with Reinhold Messner
, when he and Peter Habeler
climbed Gasherbrum I
without oxygen equipment in 1975. It was Hermann Buhl
's idea to demonstrate Alpine style in the Karakoram
at the successful Austrian Broad Peak
expedition in 1957; in pure Alpine style the members of this expedition later climbed Skil Brum
(Marcus Schmuck
and Fritz Wintersteller
) and approached Chogolisa
(Hermann Buhl
and Kurt Diemberger
).
The benefits of alpine style are that, generally, much less time is spent on the route, reducing objective dangers such as avalanche
s or blizzard
s. This can be a major factor on routes with ice fields full of blocks of ice hundreds of feet tall which could fall at any time. Snow and ice conditions often change over the course of a day forcing climbing parties to climb in the early hours before the sun melts the snow or ice making it unsuitable and more susceptible to avalanche. This tendency to climb in the morning has led to the term "Alpine Start". An "Alpine Start" is an early start that ranges from starting at 11:00pm of the night before on long routes, to not long before sunrise for shorter routes or faster parties. An "Alpine Start" must begin in the dark.
The problems encountered while alpine style climbing are related to lack of support. Without fixed ropes to retreat down in case of emergency, or a lower camp to return to, the commitment of alpine style is greater than expedition style in terms of the choice to ascend or descend. A climbing group caught at a point where conditions do not allow further ascent must consider other options such as an unplanned bivouac
(perhaps without the appropriate gear), rappels (leaving multiple pieces of protection behind), or moving to another route from their current position (perhaps without adequate knowledge of the alternative route). However, alpine style often is cheaper and faster for those on a budget, as alpine style climbing typically involves less
equipment, and eliminates the need to hire porters.
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
in a self-sufficient
Self-sufficiency
Self-sufficiency refers to the state of not requiring any outside aid, support, or interaction, for survival; it is therefore a type of personal or collective autonomy...
manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style
Expedition style
Expedition style refers to mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure, as opposed to Alpine style where one carries all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs...
(or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.
Many consider Alpine style to be the purest form of mountaineering, setting a standard to which all mountaineers should aspire. This style became well-known and popular with Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol "whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatest climber in history." He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without...
, when he and Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria.Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer are his first ascents in the Rocky Mountains. He was also the first European to climb on the Big Walls in Yosemite National Park.He began climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. ...
climbed Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I , also known as Hidden Peak or K5, is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang region of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya...
without oxygen equipment in 1975. It was Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
's idea to demonstrate Alpine style in the Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...
at the successful Austrian Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
expedition in 1957; in pure Alpine style the members of this expedition later climbed Skil Brum
Skil Brum
Skil Brum, or Skilbrum, is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Northern Areas of Pakistan, approximately 9 km west-southwest of K2. It lies on the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, roughly opposite Broad Peak....
(Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck was an Austrian mountaineer. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz...
and Fritz Wintersteller
Fritz Wintersteller
Fritz Wintersteller is an Austrian mountaineer who made the first ascent of Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck in 1957....
) and approached Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Chogolisa is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face rises to...
(Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
and Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.-Career:As of 2008, Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent...
).
The benefits of alpine style are that, generally, much less time is spent on the route, reducing objective dangers such as avalanche
Avalanche
An avalanche is a sudden rapid flow of snow down a slope, occurring when either natural triggers or human activity causes a critical escalating transition from the slow equilibrium evolution of the snow pack. Typically occurring in mountainous terrain, an avalanche can mix air and water with the...
s or blizzard
Blizzard
A blizzard is a severe snowstorm characterized by strong winds. By definition, the difference between blizzard and a snowstorm is the strength of the wind. To be a blizzard, a snow storm must have winds in excess of with blowing or drifting snow which reduces visibility to 400 meters or ¼ mile or...
s. This can be a major factor on routes with ice fields full of blocks of ice hundreds of feet tall which could fall at any time. Snow and ice conditions often change over the course of a day forcing climbing parties to climb in the early hours before the sun melts the snow or ice making it unsuitable and more susceptible to avalanche. This tendency to climb in the morning has led to the term "Alpine Start". An "Alpine Start" is an early start that ranges from starting at 11:00pm of the night before on long routes, to not long before sunrise for shorter routes or faster parties. An "Alpine Start" must begin in the dark.
The problems encountered while alpine style climbing are related to lack of support. Without fixed ropes to retreat down in case of emergency, or a lower camp to return to, the commitment of alpine style is greater than expedition style in terms of the choice to ascend or descend. A climbing group caught at a point where conditions do not allow further ascent must consider other options such as an unplanned bivouac
Bivouac shelter
A bivouac traditionally refers to a military encampment made with tents or improvised shelters, usually without shelter or protection from enemy fire or such a site where a camp may be built. It is also commonly used to describe a variety of improvised camp sites such as those used in scouting and...
(perhaps without the appropriate gear), rappels (leaving multiple pieces of protection behind), or moving to another route from their current position (perhaps without adequate knowledge of the alternative route). However, alpine style often is cheaper and faster for those on a budget, as alpine style climbing typically involves less
equipment, and eliminates the need to hire porters.