Fritz Wintersteller
Encyclopedia
Fritz Wintersteller is an Austria
n mountaineer
who made the first ascent of Broad Peak
together with Hermann Buhl
, Kurt Diemberger
and Marcus Schmuck
in 1957.
Although never a professional climber he climbed nearly every 4000m-mountain in the Alps
, including first ascents of Hochkogel (north face), Wiesspitze, and the 7.420 m high Skil Brum
on June 19, 1957. He never attempted to climb three side summits over 4000m in the alps that he had not overcome, apparently because he considered them not beautiful enough.
Currently he is living in Salzburg, Austria. Due to difficulties with his hips he now spends most of his time bicycling. He made several trips to Alaska in his later years doing long ski tours and rafting several rivers.
Austria
Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country of roughly 8.4 million people in Central Europe. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the...
n mountaineer
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
who made the first ascent of Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
together with Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
, Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.-Career:As of 2008, Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent...
and Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck was an Austrian mountaineer. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz...
in 1957.
Although never a professional climber he climbed nearly every 4000m-mountain in the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
, including first ascents of Hochkogel (north face), Wiesspitze, and the 7.420 m high Skil Brum
Skil Brum
Skil Brum, or Skilbrum, is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Northern Areas of Pakistan, approximately 9 km west-southwest of K2. It lies on the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, roughly opposite Broad Peak....
on June 19, 1957. He never attempted to climb three side summits over 4000m in the alps that he had not overcome, apparently because he considered them not beautiful enough.
Currently he is living in Salzburg, Austria. Due to difficulties with his hips he now spends most of his time bicycling. He made several trips to Alaska in his later years doing long ski tours and rafting several rivers.
First ascents
Data from- 1943 Kleines Fieberhorn, Southeast tower, variant V
- Grosses Fieberhorn, South traverse, V-
- Bratschenkopf, direct South face, V
- 1944 Zahringkogel, direct West face, V+
- Watzmannfrau, Northwest, left traverse, V+
- 1945 Hochkogel, Northwest face tower, V
- 1946 Grosswand, South ridge, 1. descent on skis
- 1948 Wiesspitze, direct West face, V+
- Lehender Kopf, direct West face, V
- 1955 FalkensteinFalkensteinFalkenstein or Falckenstein is the name of several places and castles in Central Europe as well as a surname:- Places in Germany and Austria :* Falkenstein, Bavaria, district Cham...
, Southeast ridge, III - Westbyfijell, South face, III and Southeast ridge, II
- Snökuppelen, North face, IV
- 1957 Broad PeakBroad PeakBroad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
8030m, Forepeak on May 29 - Broad PeakBroad PeakBroad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
8047m on June 9 - Skil BrumSkil BrumSkil Brum, or Skilbrum, is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Northern Areas of Pakistan, approximately 9 km west-southwest of K2. It lies on the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, roughly opposite Broad Peak....
7420m on June 19
See also
- List of famous Austrians
- List of Austrian mountaineers
- Eight-thousanderEight-thousanderThe eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia....
- Broad PeakBroad PeakBroad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
- Skil BrumSkil BrumSkil Brum, or Skilbrum, is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Northern Areas of Pakistan, approximately 9 km west-southwest of K2. It lies on the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, roughly opposite Broad Peak....
- Alpine styleAlpine styleAlpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure...
- List of first ascents