Tyrolean traverse
Encyclopedia
A Tyrolean traverse is a method of crossing through free space between two high points on a rope without a hanging cart or cart equivalent. This is used in a range of mountaineering activities: rock climbing
, technical tree climbing
, caving
and water crossings. A zip-line
is in essence a Tyrolean traverse which is traveled down quickly with the assistance of gravity. In rock climbing a Tyrolean traverse is most often used to return to the main part of a wall after climbing a detached pillar. Lost Arrow Spire
, a detached pillar in Yosemite Valley, is often abseiled using a dramatic Tyrolean traverse. There are many ways to anchor the line at the two high points but the significant feature is that there is a line strung between them.
Many classic locations for Tyrolean traverses have since been used as locations for highlining, especially slacklining at great heights. In a sense completing such a slackline would count as a Tyrolean traverse but since slacklines are not used as a form of transportation this is not entirely accurate. With the rise in popularity and the relative decline in the use Tyrolean traverse by the climbing community the terms "highlining" and "Tyrolean traverse" have been somewhat confused due to obvious overlaps in the nature of the activity, including preparation and location.
Traveling across a Tyrolean traverse varies from purely using one's hands and legs to the use of prusiks, one way pulleys, or ascenders. In most modern situations the traverse is secured to the line through some combination of climbing harness
, webbing
, carabiner
, and/or pulleys.
The technique has been used in a few first ascents and first summitings in which the rope was secured to desired summit by lassoing it.
There are situations in which a Tyrolean traverse is the preferred way to descend a route, a Tyrolean traverse may allow a climber to avoid a long multi-pitch rope rappel in favor of a walk-off (walking descent); or a Tyrolean traverse may allow the climber to avoid an undesirable or dangerous location such as a steep scree field.
Present Guinness record for Tyrolean traverse belongs to Bulgaria. It was made between peaks Maliovitsa and Orlovets in national park Rila (Distance 1550 meters).
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
, technical tree climbing
Tree climbing
Tree climbing is a recreational or functional activity consisting of ascending and moving around in the crown of trees.Use of a rope, helmet, and harness are the minimum requirements to ensure the safety of the climber. Other equipment can also be used depending on the experience and skill of the...
, caving
Caving
Caving—also occasionally known as spelunking in the United States and potholing in the United Kingdom—is the recreational pastime of exploring wild cave systems...
and water crossings. A zip-line
Zip-line
A zip-line consists of a pulley suspended on a cable mounted on an incline...
is in essence a Tyrolean traverse which is traveled down quickly with the assistance of gravity. In rock climbing a Tyrolean traverse is most often used to return to the main part of a wall after climbing a detached pillar. Lost Arrow Spire
Lost Arrow Spire
The Lost Arrow Spire is a detached pillar in Yosemite Valley, California, located immediately adjacent to Upper Yosemite Falls. The structure includes the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney route which is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America...
, a detached pillar in Yosemite Valley, is often abseiled using a dramatic Tyrolean traverse. There are many ways to anchor the line at the two high points but the significant feature is that there is a line strung between them.
Many classic locations for Tyrolean traverses have since been used as locations for highlining, especially slacklining at great heights. In a sense completing such a slackline would count as a Tyrolean traverse but since slacklines are not used as a form of transportation this is not entirely accurate. With the rise in popularity and the relative decline in the use Tyrolean traverse by the climbing community the terms "highlining" and "Tyrolean traverse" have been somewhat confused due to obvious overlaps in the nature of the activity, including preparation and location.
Traveling across a Tyrolean traverse varies from purely using one's hands and legs to the use of prusiks, one way pulleys, or ascenders. In most modern situations the traverse is secured to the line through some combination of climbing harness
Climbing harness
A climbing harness is a piece of equipment used in certain types of rock-climbing, abseiling or other activities requiring the use of ropes to provide access or safety...
, webbing
Webbing
Webbing is a strong fabric woven as a flat strip or tube of varying width and fibres often used in place of rope. The name webbing comes from the meshed material frequently used in its construction, which resembles a web...
, carabiner
Carabiner
A carabiner or karabiner is a metal loop with a sprung or screwed gate that is used to quickly and reversibly connect components in safety-critical systems. The word comes from "Karabinerhaken", meaning "hook for a carbine" in German.-Use:...
, and/or pulleys.
The technique has been used in a few first ascents and first summitings in which the rope was secured to desired summit by lassoing it.
There are situations in which a Tyrolean traverse is the preferred way to descend a route, a Tyrolean traverse may allow a climber to avoid a long multi-pitch rope rappel in favor of a walk-off (walking descent); or a Tyrolean traverse may allow the climber to avoid an undesirable or dangerous location such as a steep scree field.
Present Guinness record for Tyrolean traverse belongs to Bulgaria. It was made between peaks Maliovitsa and Orlovets in national park Rila (Distance 1550 meters).