Lost Arrow Spire
Encyclopedia
The Lost Arrow Spire is a detached pillar in Yosemite Valley
, California
, located immediately adjacent to Upper Yosemite Falls
. The structure includes the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
route which is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
. The last two pitches of Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
are called the Lost Arrow Spire Tip
and completes the detached portion of the spire. The Tip route is often reached by rappelling into an area known as The Notch. Once the route is completed climbers will often return to the main wall via a dramatic and famous Tyrolean traverse
.
The spire was originally summited by lasso
ing the summit from the main wall and then Ax Nelson prusiked the lassoed line to the peak and was followed by Jack Arnold. While Steve Roper
called this "one of the greatest rope stunts ever pulled off in climbing history" many climbers did not recognize this "rope trick" as a true ascent. An undisputed ascent was completed later that season by John Salathé
and Ax Nelson via the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
.
Yosemite Valley
Yosemite Valley is a glacial valley in Yosemite National Park in the western Sierra Nevada mountains of California, carved out by the Merced River. The valley is about long and up to a mile deep, surrounded by high granite summits such as Half Dome and El Capitan, and densely forested with pines...
, California
California
California is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area...
, located immediately adjacent to Upper Yosemite Falls
Yosemite Falls
Yosemite Falls is the highest measured waterfall in North America. Located in Yosemite National Park in the Sierra Nevada of California, it is a major attraction in the park, especially in late spring when the water flow is at its peak....
. The structure includes the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
The Lost Arrow Spire Chimney in Yosemite National Park is the first technical climbing route to ascend the entire Lost Arrow Spire. This route shares the last two pitches with the Lost Arrow Spire Tip route which can also be reached by rappelling from above...
route which is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
Fifty Classic Climbs Of North America is a climbing guidebook and history written by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. It is considered a definitive piece of climbing literature, known to many climbers as simply "The Book", and has served as an inspiration for more recent climbing books, such as Mark...
. The last two pitches of Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
The Lost Arrow Spire Chimney in Yosemite National Park is the first technical climbing route to ascend the entire Lost Arrow Spire. This route shares the last two pitches with the Lost Arrow Spire Tip route which can also be reached by rappelling from above...
are called the Lost Arrow Spire Tip
Lost Arrow Spire Tip
The Lost Arrow Spire Tip is a popular technical climbing route up Lost Arrow Spire. This route begins at an area called The Notch. The Notch can be reached by making two rappels from valleys main wall or by climbing to it via another route from the base of the Lost Arrow Spire...
and completes the detached portion of the spire. The Tip route is often reached by rappelling into an area known as The Notch. Once the route is completed climbers will often return to the main wall via a dramatic and famous Tyrolean traverse
Tyrolean traverse
A Tyrolean traverse is a method of crossing through free space between two high points on a rope without a hanging cart or cart equivalent. This is used in a range of mountaineering activities: rock climbing, technical tree climbing, caving and water crossings. A zip-line is in essence a Tyrolean...
.
The spire was originally summited by lasso
Lasso
A lasso , also referred to as a lariat, riata, or reata , is a loop of rope that is designed to be thrown around a target and tighten when pulled. It is a well-known tool of the American cowboy. The word is also a verb; to lasso is to successfully throw the loop of rope around something...
ing the summit from the main wall and then Ax Nelson prusiked the lassoed line to the peak and was followed by Jack Arnold. While Steve Roper
Steve Roper
Steve Roper is a noted climber and historian of the Sierra Nevada in the United States. He along with Allen Steck are the founding editors of the Sierra Club journal Ascent.Roper is the winner of the Sierra Club's Francis P...
called this "one of the greatest rope stunts ever pulled off in climbing history" many climbers did not recognize this "rope trick" as a true ascent. An undisputed ascent was completed later that season by John Salathé
John Salathe
John Salathé was a pioneering rock climber, blacksmith and the inventor of the modern piton....
and Ax Nelson via the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
Lost Arrow Spire Chimney
The Lost Arrow Spire Chimney in Yosemite National Park is the first technical climbing route to ascend the entire Lost Arrow Spire. This route shares the last two pitches with the Lost Arrow Spire Tip route which can also be reached by rappelling from above...
.