Pumari Chhish
Encyclopedia
Pumari Chhish, is a high peak of the Hispar Muztagh
Hispar Muztagh
Hispar Muztagh is a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range. It is located in the Gojal region of the Northern Areas of Pakistan, north of Hispar Glacier, south of Shimshal Valley, and east of the Hunza Valley. It is the second highest sub-range of the Karakoram, the highest being the Baltoro...

, a subrange of the Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...

 range
Mountain range
A mountain range is a single, large mass consisting of a succession of mountains or narrowly spaced mountain ridges, with or without peaks, closely related in position, direction, formation, and age; a component part of a mountain system or of a mountain chain...

. It lies about 4 km east of Khunyang Chhish
Khunyang Chhish
Khunyang Chhish or Kunyang Chhish is the second-highest mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountains of Pakistan. Alternate variations of the name include Kunyang Kish and Khiangyang Kish, among others. Its height is also sometimes given as 7823m...

, in the heart of the Hispar, north of the Hispar Glacier
Glacier
A glacier is a large persistent body of ice that forms where the accumulation of snow exceeds its ablation over many years, often centuries. At least 0.1 km² in area and 50 m thick, but often much larger, a glacier slowly deforms and flows due to stresses induced by its weight...

.

Pumari Chhish was first attempted by an Austria
Austria
Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country of roughly 8.4 million people in Central Europe. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the...

n group in 1974, who failed to climb or bypass the Yazghil Glacier on the north side of the peak. In 1979, a Japan
Japan
Japan is an island nation in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean, it lies to the east of the Sea of Japan, China, North Korea, South Korea and Russia, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea and Taiwan in the south...

ese group from the Hokkaido Alpine Association succeeded in climbing the mountain via a long route starting from the Khunyang Glacier, well to the west of the peak. They first had to cross a significant col
Mountain pass
A mountain pass is a route through a mountain range or over a ridge. If following the lowest possible route, a pass is locally the highest point on that route...

 to access the upper Yazghil Glacier; they then ascended the north ridge of Pumari Chhish.

According the Himalayan Index, there have been no other successful ascents of Pumari Chhish.

Pumari Chhish South

About 1 km (0.621372736649807 mi) to the southeast of the main summit of Pumari Chhish lies Pumari Chhish South, 7350 m (24,114.2 ft). After two unsuccessful attempts on this peak in 1999 and 2000 by Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne, it was first climbed on June 12, 2007 by Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff. Among first ascents of peaks over 7000 metres, their 2700 m (8,858.3 ft) climb was highly technical (they rate it ABO 5.10 M6 A1
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...

). They made the ascent in pure alpine style
Alpine style
Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure...

 over six days. Their achievement earned them the lead article in the 2008 American Alpine Journal
American Alpine Journal
The American Alpine Journal is an annual magazine published by the American Alpine Club. Its mission is "to document and communicate mountain exploration."...

.
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