Mount Sir Donald
Encyclopedia
Mount Sir Donald is a peak in the Rogers Pass
area of British Columbia
, Canada
. Its good rock quality and classic Matterhorn
shape make it popular for alpine rock climbers
, and the Northwest Arete route is included in the popular book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
.
It was originally named Syndicate Peak in honor of the group who arranged the finances for the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway
, but was later renamed after Donald Smith, 1st Baron Strathcona and Mount Royal
, head of the syndicate.
The first ascent was made in 1890 by Emil Huber and Carl Sulzer of Switzerland
and porter Harry Cooper. As of the 1910s, an average of three or four ascents per year were being made.
Rogers Pass
Rogers Pass is a high mountain pass through the Selkirk Mountains of British Columbia used by the Canadian Pacific Railway and the Trans-Canada Highway. The pass is a shortcut across the "Big Bend" of the Columbia River from Revelstoke on the west to Donald, near Golden, on the east...
area of British Columbia
British Columbia
British Columbia is the westernmost of Canada's provinces and is known for its natural beauty, as reflected in its Latin motto, Splendor sine occasu . Its name was chosen by Queen Victoria in 1858...
, Canada
Canada
Canada is a North American country consisting of ten provinces and three territories. Located in the northern part of the continent, it extends from the Atlantic Ocean in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west, and northward into the Arctic Ocean...
. Its good rock quality and classic Matterhorn
Matterhorn
The Matterhorn , Monte Cervino or Mont Cervin , is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Its summit is 4,478 metres high, making it one of the highest peaks in the Alps. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points...
shape make it popular for alpine rock climbers
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
, and the Northwest Arete route is included in the popular book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
Fifty Classic Climbs Of North America is a climbing guidebook and history written by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. It is considered a definitive piece of climbing literature, known to many climbers as simply "The Book", and has served as an inspiration for more recent climbing books, such as Mark...
.
It was originally named Syndicate Peak in honor of the group who arranged the finances for the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway
Canadian Pacific Railway
The Canadian Pacific Railway , formerly also known as CP Rail between 1968 and 1996, is a historic Canadian Class I railway founded in 1881 and now operated by Canadian Pacific Railway Limited, which began operations as legal owner in a corporate restructuring in 2001...
, but was later renamed after Donald Smith, 1st Baron Strathcona and Mount Royal
Donald Smith, 1st Baron Strathcona and Mount Royal
Sir Donald Alexander Smith, 1st Baron Strathcona and Mount Royal, GCMG, GCVO, PC, DL was a Scottish-born Canadian fur trader, financier, railroad baron and politician.-Early life:...
, head of the syndicate.
The first ascent was made in 1890 by Emil Huber and Carl Sulzer of Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
and porter Harry Cooper. As of the 1910s, an average of three or four ascents per year were being made.