Juanito Oiarzabal
Encyclopedia
Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga (born 30 March 1956) commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal is a noted Spanish
Basque
mountaineer
and has written four books on the subject. He was the sixth man to reach all 14 eight-thousander
summits, and the fourth in reaching them without supplementary oxygen. He was the first person to conquer the top 3 summits twice (Everest + K2
+ Kangchenjunga
), and the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53.
In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting K2
.
In 2009 he announced he wants to become the first person in history to reach a "double 14", summiting each 8000er twice. In April 2010 he reached 24 eight-thousanders, after climbing Annapurna
, a world record. In 2011 he climbed Lhotse for a second time, which was his 25th eight-thousander. He is followed by Ed Viesturs
who has reached 21 summits and Phurba Tashi
Sherpa with 28.
is well-known, but less well known is that before starting on those ascents he had already accumulated a curriculum which is among the best of Spain
. He undertook ascents on all the Spanish
mountain masses, on the hardest routes. He even discovered some routes of great relevance. He is a highly experienced in climbing the Alps
, undertaking climbs for the technical challenges they presented. In other continents, he has climbed in North America
, South America
and Africa
and returning to the Himalayas
, it is here that he carries out his expeditions with the greatest ease, which may seem obvious after 35 expeditions over 23 years.
1988 / Kangchenjunga (8,598 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,000 m
1989 / Makalu (8,465 m). West Pillar. Altitude reached: 8,350 m
1990 / Everest (8,848 m). Southwest side. Altitude reached: 8,300 m
1991 / Kangchenjunga (8,598 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,400 m
1993 / Everest (8,848 m). South-Southeast Route - crest. SUMMIT
1995 / Makalu (8,465 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
1995 / Lhotse (8,516 m). Normal Route. SUMMIT
1996 / Kangchenjunga (8,586 m). North side. British route. SUMMIT
1997 / Manaslu (8,163 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
1998 / Dhaulagiri (8,167 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
1999 / Annapurna (8,091 m.). German route. SUMMIT
2002 / Makalu (8,465 m). West pillar. Altitude reached: 7,600 m
2004 / Ama Dablam (6,856 m). Southwestern sharp edge. SUMMIT
2010 / Annapurna (8,091 m.). SUMMIT (Helicopter used on descent)
2011 / Lhotse (8,516 m). SUMMIT
1987 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Messner route. Altitude reached: 6,800 m
1992 / Nanga Parbat (8,125 m). Kinshofer route. SUMMIT
1994 / K.2 - Chogori (8,611 m). Tomo Cesen route (1st integral). SUMMIT
1995 / Broad Peak (8,047 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
1997 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Japanese Corridor. SUMMIT
2003 / Broad Peak (8,047 m). Winter. Altitude reached: 6,900 m.
2003 / Gasherbrum II (8,035m.) Normal route. SUMMIT
2003 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Japanese Corridor. SUMMIT
2004 / K.2 - Chogori (8,611 m). SUMMIT
1998 / Shisha Pangma (8,046 m). Southwest side. British route. SUMMIT
2000 / Everest (8,848 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,700 m (without O2
)
2001 / Everest (8,848 m). North side. SUMMIT (without O2)
2002 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
2003 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT (23 September)
2003 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT (5 October)
Spanish people
The Spanish are citizens of the Kingdom of Spain. Within Spain, there are also a number of vigorous nationalisms and regionalisms, reflecting the country's complex history....
Basque
Basque people
The Basques as an ethnic group, primarily inhabit an area traditionally known as the Basque Country , a region that is located around the western end of the Pyrenees on the coast of the Bay of Biscay and straddles parts of north-central Spain and south-western France.The Basques are known in the...
mountaineer
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...
and has written four books on the subject. He was the sixth man to reach all 14 eight-thousander
Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia....
summits, and the fourth in reaching them without supplementary oxygen. He was the first person to conquer the top 3 summits twice (Everest + K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
+ Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
), and the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53.
In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
.
In 2009 he announced he wants to become the first person in history to reach a "double 14", summiting each 8000er twice. In April 2010 he reached 24 eight-thousanders, after climbing Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
, a world record. In 2011 he climbed Lhotse for a second time, which was his 25th eight-thousander. He is followed by Ed Viesturs
Ed Viesturs
Edmund Viesturs, known as Ed Viesturs is one of the world's premier high-altitude mountaineers. He is one of only 26 people and the only one from the United States to have climbed all eight-thousander peaks...
who has reached 21 summits and Phurba Tashi
Phurba Tashi
Phurba Tashi Sherpa Mendewa is a famous Everest climber. Together with Juanito Oiarzabal, he is the person with most total ascents to eight-thousanders, with 28. http://www.alpenglowexpeditions.com/about-us/phurba-tashi These include 19 ascents on Mt. Everest, 5 on Cho Oyo, 2 over Manasulu, and one...
Sherpa with 28.
The Himalayas
His success in the HimalayasHimalayas
The Himalaya Range or Himalaya Mountains Sanskrit: Devanagari: हिमालय, literally "abode of snow"), usually called the Himalayas or Himalaya for short, is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau...
is well-known, but less well known is that before starting on those ascents he had already accumulated a curriculum which is among the best of Spain
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
. He undertook ascents on all the Spanish
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
mountain masses, on the hardest routes. He even discovered some routes of great relevance. He is a highly experienced in climbing the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
, undertaking climbs for the technical challenges they presented. In other continents, he has climbed in North America
North America
North America is a continent wholly within the Northern Hemisphere and almost wholly within the Western Hemisphere. It is also considered a northern subcontinent of the Americas...
, South America
South America
South America is a continent situated in the Western Hemisphere, mostly in the Southern Hemisphere, with a relatively small portion in the Northern Hemisphere. The continent is also considered a subcontinent of the Americas. It is bordered on the west by the Pacific Ocean and on the north and east...
and Africa
Africa
Africa is the world's second largest and second most populous continent, after Asia. At about 30.2 million km² including adjacent islands, it covers 6% of the Earth's total surface area and 20.4% of the total land area...
and returning to the Himalayas
Himalayas
The Himalaya Range or Himalaya Mountains Sanskrit: Devanagari: हिमालय, literally "abode of snow"), usually called the Himalayas or Himalaya for short, is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau...
, it is here that he carries out his expeditions with the greatest ease, which may seem obvious after 35 expeditions over 23 years.
Argentina
1983 / Aconcagua (6,957 m) – 5th world winter ascent (He has accredited 16 ascents to the Aconcagua, as a “guide”)Nepal
1982 / Kangchuntse (Makalu II) (7,640 m). Altitude reached: 7,200 m1988 / Kangchenjunga (8,598 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,000 m
1989 / Makalu (8,465 m). West Pillar. Altitude reached: 8,350 m
1990 / Everest (8,848 m). Southwest side. Altitude reached: 8,300 m
1991 / Kangchenjunga (8,598 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,400 m
1993 / Everest (8,848 m). South-Southeast Route - crest. SUMMIT
1995 / Makalu (8,465 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
1995 / Lhotse (8,516 m). Normal Route. SUMMIT
1996 / Kangchenjunga (8,586 m). North side. British route. SUMMIT
1997 / Manaslu (8,163 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
1998 / Dhaulagiri (8,167 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
1999 / Annapurna (8,091 m.). German route. SUMMIT
2002 / Makalu (8,465 m). West pillar. Altitude reached: 7,600 m
2004 / Ama Dablam (6,856 m). Southwestern sharp edge. SUMMIT
2010 / Annapurna (8,091 m.). SUMMIT (Helicopter used on descent)
2011 / Lhotse (8,516 m). SUMMIT
Pakistan
1987 / Gasherbrum II (8,035 m). . SUMMIT1987 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Messner route. Altitude reached: 6,800 m
1992 / Nanga Parbat (8,125 m). Kinshofer route. SUMMIT
1994 / K.2 - Chogori (8,611 m). Tomo Cesen route (1st integral). SUMMIT
1995 / Broad Peak (8,047 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
1997 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Japanese Corridor. SUMMIT
2003 / Broad Peak (8,047 m). Winter. Altitude reached: 6,900 m.
2003 / Gasherbrum II (8,035m.) Normal route. SUMMIT
2003 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Japanese Corridor. SUMMIT
2004 / K.2 - Chogori (8,611 m). SUMMIT
China
1985 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT1998 / Shisha Pangma (8,046 m). Southwest side. British route. SUMMIT
2000 / Everest (8,848 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,700 m (without O2
Oxygen
Oxygen is the element with atomic number 8 and represented by the symbol O. Its name derives from the Greek roots ὀξύς and -γενής , because at the time of naming, it was mistakenly thought that all acids required oxygen in their composition...
)
2001 / Everest (8,848 m). North side. SUMMIT (without O2)
2002 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT
2003 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT (23 September)
2003 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT (5 October)
Greenland
2000 / Crossing between the localities of Narsasoak and Kangarlosoak (650 km) on a sleigh, pulled by a kite.China (autonomous region of Xinjiang)
2000 / TaklaMakan 800 km desert crossing, (desert, within the Gobi desert), only with the help of camels.Awards and distinctions
- In his role as an expert, he has participated in several mountain rescue activities, receiving recognition for them.
- He is a Member of Honour of different mountaineering clubs.
- He is a Member of the Basque Mountaineering Club.
- He is a climbing professor.
- He is a professor of the Basque Mountaineering School (EVAM)
- Mountaineering Guide, Member of the International Union of Mountaineering Guide AssociationsUIAGMThe Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes is the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, known alternatively by its French, German and English abbreviations:...
(UIAGMUIAGMThe Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes is the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, known alternatively by its French, German and English abbreviations:...
). - Golden Insignia from the Basque Mountaineering Federation.
- Member of the « Comité de Patronage du Cinquantenaire de l’Annapurna » / 2000.
- Member of Honor of the Spanish Geography Society.
- Nominated for the “Prince of Asturias” Award for Sports in 1999.
- Finalist for the “Prince of Asturias” Award for Sports in 2001.
- According to the “Mundo Deportivo” Newspaper, he is among the 20 most important Spanish sportsmen of the century.
- Golden Medal for Sports Merit, awarded by the Spanish government in 1999.
- On the proposal of the editors of Basque jeans of communication, the Basque GovernmentBasque GovernmentThe Basque Government is the governing body of the Basque Autonomous Community of Spain. The head of this government is the lehendakari or Basque president that is appointed by the Basque Parliament every four years...
awarded him the distinction of Universal Basque Citizen in the year 2000. That year the Jesuit, Ion Sobrino (standard-bearer of the freedom theology in El Salvador), also won the award, which had previously been won by Etxenike, OteizaJorge OteizaJorge Oteiza Enbil , was a Basque Spanish sculptor, painter, designer and writer, renowned for being one of the main theorists on Spanish modern art....
and ChillidaEduardo ChillidaEduardo Chillida Juantegui, or Eduardo Txillida Juantegi in Basque, was a Spanish Basque sculptor notable for his monumental abstract works.-Early life and career:...
. - Member of Honour of the Spanish Exploration and Adventure Cub.
- The sports newspaper Marca awarded him its maximum prize: Marca de Leyenda (Legendary Mark), a distinction that only a handful of elite sportsmen around the world have.
- In recognition of his sports achievements, he has been officially received by outstanding officials and personalities: The Vitoria-Gasteiz City Council, Diputación Foral de Álava, the LehendakariLehendakariThe President of the Basque Government , usually known in English as the Basque regional president, is the head of government of Basque Country. The president leads the executive branch of the regional government....
(Basque President), the former Spanish prime Minister (AznarAznarAznar may refer to:*Juan Bautista Aznar-Cabañas , Spanish politician and prime minister briefly in 1931*José María Aznar Spanish politician, former prime minister*Emmanuel Aznar , French footballer...
) and the King of Spain, Juan Carlos de Borbón. - He was Guest of Honor at the activities organised by they French Government on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the conquering of AnnapurnaAnnapurnaAnnapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
, invited by its President Mr. Jacques Chirac. He was also a member of the activities Committee. - In 2005 he was awarded the FCG International Award for Sports by the Fundación Cristóbal Gabarrón.
Books
Mr. Oiarzabal has published four books:- “Buscando las catorce estrellas” [Searching for the Fourteen Stars], Editorial Lur, 1997
- “Los 14 ochomiles de Juanito Oiarzabal” [The Fourteen Eight-Thousanders of Juanito Oiarzabal], Ediciones Desnivel, 1999,
- “Conversaciones con Juanito Oiarzabal” [Conversations with Juanito Oiarzabal], Ediciones Desnivel, 2001,
- “El Everest de Juanito Oiarzabal” [Juanito Oiarzabal’s Everest], Ediciones Desnivel, 2002,
Audiovisual productions
- He has undertaken 16 audiovisual productions that have been used to promote mountaineering, offering prestige to this sport at all levels and setting a high standard for both Vitoria-Gasteiz and Alava.
- On TVE, he filmed his ascent of Annapurna for the “Al filo de lo imposible” (On the Edge of the Impossible) television program.
- He has also recorded many programs, such as the one he did on Everest, recreating the story of Mallory and Irvine who disappeared in 1924 while they tried to reach the summit.
- He is a team chef in the " The conquer of the worlds end" an adventure reality show of the public basque TV.