Ilam Province
Encyclopedia
Ilam Province is one of the 31 provinces
Provinces of Iran
Iran is subdivided into thirty one provinces , each governed from a local center, usually the largest local city, which is called the capital of that province...

 of Iran
Iran
Iran , officially the Islamic Republic of Iran , is a country in Southern and Western Asia. The name "Iran" has been in use natively since the Sassanian era and came into use internationally in 1935, before which the country was known to the Western world as Persia...

. It is in the south-west of the country, bordering Iraq
Iraq
Iraq ; officially the Republic of Iraq is a country in Western Asia spanning most of the northwestern end of the Zagros mountain range, the eastern part of the Syrian Desert and the northern part of the Arabian Desert....

. Its provincial center is the city of Ilam
Ilam, Iran
Ilam is a city in and the capital of Ilam Province, Iran. At the 2006 census, its population was 155,289, in 34,549 families.The Kabir Kuh mountain range lies east of the city. From the west it borders Iraq. The city is populated by Kurds and speak Kurdish.-Climate:Ilam is situated in the cold...

. Covering an area of 19,086 square kilometers, the cities of the province are Ilam, Mehran
Mehran, Ilam Province
Mehran , also Romanized as Mansūrābād) is a city in and the capital of Mehran County, Ilam Province, Iran. At the 2006 census, its population was 13,118, in 2,958 families.Mehran is located near the Iran's western border with Iraq...

, Dehloran
Dehloran
Dehloran is a city in and the capital of Dehloran County, Ilam Province, Iran. At the 2006 census, its population was 27,602, in 5,787 families. The city lies along Road 64, near the Iraqi border. A national natural monument lies in the northeastern part of the city....

, Dareh Shahr, Sarable
Sarable
Sarableh is a city in and capital of Shirvan and Chardaval County, Ilam Province, Iran. At the 2006 census, its population was 9,703, in 2,079 families....

, Eyvan, Abdanan
Abdanan
Abdanan is a city in and capital of Abdanan County, Ilam Province, Iran. At the 2006 census, its population was 21,662, in 4,618 families.The city is very important from the point of view of military and tourism because of its location and also there are many natural resources such as slfur mine,...

 and Arkwaz
Arkwaz
Arakvaz is a city in and capital of Malekshahi County, Ilam Province, Iran. At the 2006 census, its population was 14,225, in 2,771 families. It is adjacent to the city of Delgosha, bordering it to the north....

. It neighbors Khuzestan province in the south, Lurestan province in the east, Kermanshah province
Kermanshah Province
Kermanshah Province is one of the 31 provinces of Iran. The province was known from 1969 to 1986 as Kermanshahan and from 1986 to 1995 as Bakhtaran.-Counties:...

 in the north and Iraq
Iraq
Iraq ; officially the Republic of Iraq is a country in Western Asia spanning most of the northwestern end of the Zagros mountain range, the eastern part of the Syrian Desert and the northern part of the Arabian Desert....

 in the west with 425 kilometers of common border. The population of the province is approximately 540,000 people (2005 estimate).

Geography

Ilam province is among the warmest regions of Iran, although the mountainous areas of north and north eastern Ilam are relatively cold. The average annual rainfall province is 578 mm. Ilam's highest point is the peak Kabir Kuh
Kabir Kuh
Kabir Kuh is a very long mountainous ridge stretching about 150 miles in length on the borders of Lurestan and Ilam Province in Iran. The highest peak is called Kaane seifi which is almost 50 km far from Ilam....

 at 2790 m, part of the Zagros mountains. Eyvan and Ilam (city) are less warmer than the other cities in the province because thay situated in the north of the province.wheat is the most common corp cultivated in this province.

In 1996, the absolute maximum temperature was 38 °C in August and the minimum temperature was 0.4 °C in February. The number of freezing days in winter was 27 days.

People and culture

The population of Ilam City is predominantly Feyli Kurdish. in spite of presence of many kurdish tribes in southern part of the province there is some tribes of Lurs which live mostly in the southern and eastern parts of the province; for example: Abdanan, Darreshahr, Dehloran and Mehran. The north is mostly inhabited by Kurdish tribes who speak with two dialects: Kalhuri and Feyli
Feyli
Feyli can refer to:*Feyli , a group of Lor tribes located mainly in Lorestan*Feyli , a dialect of Southern Kurdish...

. The majority are Feyli Kurds
Feyli Kurds
Fayli Kurds, "Feili Kurds", or Feyli Kurds are largely a Kurdish Shi'a community living in Baghdad and the Diyala Province of Iraq around Khanaqin and Mandali, and across the Iranian border, in the provinces of Ilam, Kermanshah and Luristan. They number an estimated 6.000.000. people...

, such as Kurdish tribes
Kurdish tribes
Kurdish tribes of Kurdistan consist of:*Republic of Azerbaijan*Sheylanli tribe*West Azarbaijan Province:*Jalali*Milan*Haydaran*Donboli*korahsuni*Shekak*Herki*Bagzâdah*Zerzâ*Pirân*Pizhdar*Mâmash*Mangur*Mokri*Dehbokri*Gowrâg*Malkari*Suseni...

 of Khezel, Arkawâzi, Beyrey (Ali Sherwan
Ali Sherwan
Beyrey is one of the largest Kurdish tribes of Ilam Province in Iran. According to the elders of the tribe,this tribe has been branched from Kurdish tribe of Sanjâbi in Kermanshah province. It consists of different clans and families : Ali sherwan which includes: Hiar wandi , Dara wandi, Safar...

), Malek shahi and Shuhan. Most are Shi'a Muslims
Shi'a Islam
Shia Islam is the second largest denomination of Islam. The followers of Shia Islam are called Shi'ites or Shias. "Shia" is the short form of the historic phrase Shīʻatu ʻAlī , meaning "followers of Ali", "faction of Ali", or "party of Ali".Like other schools of thought in Islam, Shia Islam is...

.

Counties

Map Abbreviation in map County
County
A county is a jurisdiction of local government in certain modern nations. Historically in mainland Europe, the original French term, comté, and its equivalents in other languages denoted a jurisdiction under the sovereignty of a count A county is a jurisdiction of local government in certain...

 (Shahrestan
Shahrestan
Shahrestan or Shahristan may refer to:*Counties of Iran*Shahristan District*Shahrestan, Afghanistan...

)
AA Abdanan County
Abdanan County
Abdanan County is a county in Ilam province, Iran. The capital of the county is Abdanan. At the 2006 census, its population was 45,830, in 9,358 families. The county is subdivided into three districts: the Central District, Kalat District, and Sarab Bagh District...

Da Darrehshahr County
Darrehshahr County
Darreh Shahr County is a county in Ilam Province in Iran. The capital of the county is Darreh Shahr. At the 2006 census, the county's population was 56,346, in 11,487 families. The county is subdivided into three districts: the Central District, Badreh District, and Majin District...

De Dehloran County
Dehloran County
Dehloran County is a county in Ilam Province in Iran. The capital of the county is Dehloran. At the 2006 census, the county's population was 58,993, in 11,376 families. People speak Kurdish and Luri. The county is subdivided into three districts: the Central District, Zarrinabad District, and...

E Eyvan County
I Ilam County
Ilam County
Ilam County is a county in Ilam Province in Iran. The capital of the county is Ilam. At the 2006 census, the county's population was 193,222, in 42,207 families. The county is subdivided into two districts: the Central District and Chavar District. The county has two cities: Ilam and...

Me Mehran County
Mehran County
Mehran County is county in Ilam Province in Iran. The capital of the county is Mehran. At the 2006 census, its population was 55,271, in 10,960 families; excluding those portions, the population was 23,878, in 5,238 families. The county is subdivided into two districts: the Central District and...

Malekshahi County
Malekshahi County
Malekshahi County is a county in Ilam Province in Iran. The capital of the county is Arakvaz. It was separated from Mehran County in 2008. At the 2006 census, the county's population was 31,393, in 5,722 families. The county is subdivided into two districts: the Central District and Gachi District...

ShCh Shirvan-o-Chardavol County
Shirvan-o-Chardavol County
Shirvan and Chardaval County is a county in Ilam Province in Iran. The capital of the county is the city of Sarableh. At the 2006 census, the county's population was 73,422, in 15,087 families. The county is subdivided into three districts: the Central District, Shirvan District, and Helilan...


History

Limited archaeological studies and discoveries indicate 6,000 years of tribal residence in Ilam. Historical evidence indicates that Ilam province was part of the ancient Elamite Empire. In some of the epigraphs left from Sumer
Sumer
Sumer was a civilization and historical region in southern Mesopotamia, modern Iraq during the Chalcolithic and Early Bronze Age....

ian history, this territory was called Alam, Alamo
Alamo
The Battle of the Alamo was a battle fought during the Texas Revolution.Alamo may also refer to:-Places:*Alamo Mission in San Antonio, Texas*Alamo, California*Alamo, Georgia*Alamo Township, Michigan*Alamo, Nevada*Alamo, New Mexico...

, or Alamto meaning the high lands where the sun rises.

It was also part of the Achaemenid Empire. Existence of numerous historical vestiges in Lurestan and Ilam provinces belonging to the Sassanid period indicates the specific importance of the region in that time. In this period Ilam province was divided into two regions, Mehrjankadak
Mehrjankadak
Mehrjankadak is the ancient name for eastern part of Ilam province during the Sassanid dynasty. It was located at the present day Dare Shahr and next to Seimareh River....

 in the eastern part and Mâsabazân at the western part.

Kurdish tribes
Kurdish tribes
Kurdish tribes of Kurdistan consist of:*Republic of Azerbaijan*Sheylanli tribe*West Azarbaijan Province:*Jalali*Milan*Haydaran*Donboli*korahsuni*Shekak*Herki*Bagzâdah*Zerzâ*Pirân*Pizhdar*Mâmash*Mangur*Mokri*Dehbokri*Gowrâg*Malkari*Suseni...

 governed the region from the late 11th century till the early 13th century.

In the 1930 division of Iran, Ilam became a part of Kermanshah
Kermanshah
Kermanshah is a city in and the capital of Kermanshah Province, Iran. At the 2006 census, its population was 784,602, in 198,117 families.The overwhelming majority of Kermanshahi people are Shi'a Muslims...

 province, only later to become a province by itself. Ilam is still a tribal province in many ways, but in recent years the tribal relations have changed drastically.

Ilam today

During the Iran-Iraq war
Iran-Iraq War
The Iran–Iraq War was an armed conflict between the armed forces of Iraq and Iran, lasting from September 1980 to August 1988, making it the longest conventional war of the twentieth century...

, Ilam province suffered heavily and Iraq's intense bombings left no economic infrastructure for the province. Ilam thus remains one of Iran's more undeveloped provinces. Ilam's unemployment rate was 19.9% in 2003.

Only in recent years has the central government began investing in advanced industries like Petrochemical facilities, with Japanese help, in Ilam. Ilam also has a bright future in the tourist sector, with 174 historical sites listed under Iran's Cultural Heritage Organization, though it also remains undeveloped.

Colleges and universities

Ilam province contains the following universities:
  • Ilam University of Medical Sciences
  • University of Ilamhttp://ilam.ac.ir/
  • Islamic Azad University of Ilam
  • Payame noor University of Ilam

Attractions

  • Imamzadeh
    Imamzadeh
    An Imāmzādeh is a word found in both the Persian and Urdu languages, that refers to an immediate descendant of a Shi'a Imam.Imamzadeh means “offspring” or descendent of an imam. There are many other different ways of spelling this term. Some of these are imamzada, imamzadah, and emamzadah...

    s: These are shrines mostly from the Middle Ages: Imamzadeh Ali Saleh, Imamzadeh Seyd mammad Abed, Imamzadeh Seyd Akbar, Imamzadeh Seyd Fakhreddin, Imamzadeh Seyd Nasereddin, Imamzadeh Ibrahim, Imamzadeh Abbas, Imamzadeh Abdullah, Imamzadeh Pir Muhammad, Imamzadeh Baba Seifuddin, Imamzadeh Mehdi Saleh, Imamzadeh Ibrahim Qetal, Imamzadeh Seyd Hasan, Imamzadeh Seyd Salaheddin Muhammad, Imamzadeh Haji Bakhtiar, Imamzadeh Haji Hazer, Imamzadeh Jabir.
  • Fire Temples (10 in total): These are Zoroastrian shrines from the Sassanid era, now in ruins: Siyahgol Iwan, Chahar Taghi in Darreh Shahr.
  • Mansions, forts, and castles (90 in total): Ghal'eh Vali (Qajar era), Posht Ghal'eh Chowar, Ghal'eh Paghela Chekarbuli, Ghal'eh Falahati (Qajar era),Ghal'eh Ghiran (Achaemenid era), Shiagh castle in Dehloran (Sassanid era), Ismail Khan fort, Sam castle (late Parthian era), Pur Ashraf castle, Mir Gholam Hashemi ghal'eh, Posht Ghal'eh Abdanan (Sassanid), Konjancham fort, Shirin and Farhad Iwan
    Iwan
    An iwan is a rectangular hall or space, usually vaulted, walled on three sides, with one end entirely open. The formal gateway to the iwan is called pishtaq, a Persian term for a portal projecting from the facade of a building, usually decorated with calligraphy bands, glazed tilework, and...

     in Mehran
    Mehran
    Mehran is derived from the term "Mehr", or Mithra, a pre-Islamic ancient Persian deity.Mehran may refer to:People* Mehran, a male name in Persian, female counterparts are Mehrdokht, Mehrandokht and Mehraneh...

     (Parthian era), Hezar Dar Castle (Sassanid), Sheikh Makan Fort (Sassanid), Zeinal Fort.
  • Bridges from Sassanid era (5 in total).
  • Numerous archeological sites (Teppes) and ruins from Sassanid era and earlier (224 in total).
  • Ancient reliefs scattered across the province (8 in total).
  • Ancient urban settlement ruins (22 in total).
  • Springs, caves (like the cave of Zinegan), 3 protected natural habitats, and provincial parks.
  • Tar Spring, in Dehloran.

Tar Spring, Dragon Blood

One of the most interesting things to be found near the city Dehloran is a natural liquid tar
Tar
Tar is modified pitch produced primarily from the wood and roots of pine by destructive distillation under pyrolysis. Production and trade in tar was a major contributor in the economies of Northern Europe and Colonial America. Its main use was in preserving wooden vessels against rot. The largest...

 spring. Iranians used to use this tar to render ships and roofs waterproof about 3000 years ago. This black spring is located in a natural protected area named Abgarm. Interesting things around this area include mineral water springs, native trees, and bat caves with rare species of bats.

The road to the Black Spring is near city Dehloran and leads to the Abgarm natural protected area. A sign guides visitors to the spring via a narrow road. The last few hundred meters of the road is not suitable for vehicles and requires a short walk to reach to the spring. Visitors will notice the smell of tar as they approach. The spring’s diameter is about 9 meters and hot water full of liquid tar particles flows out of it. There is a fence to protect animals from going nearby and get trapped in the tar.

According to myths told by the native people, this tar spring was the blood of a dragon
Dragon
A dragon is a legendary creature, typically with serpentine or reptilian traits, that feature in the myths of many cultures. There are two distinct cultural traditions of dragons: the European dragon, derived from European folk traditions and ultimately related to Greek and Middle Eastern...

 that was killed by the Iranian hero, Esfandiar.

Notable people

  • Gholamraza Xan Arkawazi, Kurdish poet
  • Sirus Emami, Kurdish musician
  • Jeff Darabi, Assistant Professor of University of South Carolina
  • Abdoljabar Kakaei, poet

External links

Ilam Province Department of Education Ilam Picture Gallery
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