History of Church End Finchley
Encyclopedia
History of Church End describes the development of Church End, a district in the London Borough of Barnet
in London
, England
.
Finchley’s oldest church was established sometime in the 12th century, early documents mention it from the 1270s, and by 1356 it was dedicated to St Mary. The building has been altered many times since its foundation and the oldest parts, the north wall and the tower (which seems to have had a steeple during the 16th and 17th century), date from the reign of Henry VII. In 1872 the church was enlarged. Bombing in 1940 led to the substantial rebuilding of the church in 1953 . The oldest monument is a brass plate to Richard Prate (d1487), and there is a marble effigy of Alexander King (d. 1618) and his wife. In the churchyard are the graves of Thomas Payne
, the radical and bookseller, and Major John Cartwright
the political reformer.
Next to the Church in Hendon Lane stood the Old Queen’s Head, which took its name from Queen Anne, and was owned by the Finchley Charities. In 1833 the original inn burned down and was rebuilt, surviving until the lease on the house came up in 1857. The rector of Finchley, Thomas Reader White, refused to renew the lease on the house and the inn did not move to its present location as the New Queen’s Head, in East End Road until the 1860s . White renamed the buildings Finchley Hall and used it to house Christ's College Finchley
. In 1902 Finchley Council took over the hall for offices but bomb damage (1940) made the building unsafe and they were demolished shortly after. Church End Library (1960) now occupies the site. From 1787 to 1880 a cage for criminals stood between the Church and the Old Queen’s Head. The Anglican community established a National school in 1813 which was rebuilt as St Mary’s School in 1852. In 1990 the school was re-established near to the brook at Dollis Park and now only the infant’s section, built in 1902, remains on the original location. In 1888 Finchley Council established a voluntary fire brigade near the top of Gravel Hill in Hendon Lane which remained at this location until 1933 (see Long Lane). In 1904 Finchley obtained the first motorised fire engine in Great Britain (see picture and article). Close by is Finchley Garden Village which was developed around a green in 1910 as a small garden suburb. At the bottom of Hendon Lane is Crooked Usage. Originally a part of Hendon Lane its picturesque name dates from the straightening of Hendon Lane in 1911-12.
to Finchley was along a road called Ducksetters Lane (known as such by 1475). This ran parallel to the present Regents Park Road, to the west, and terminated where Gravel Hill is today. The road then passed along the very top part of Hendon Lane, before continuing north as Ballards Lane (known as such since 1424). There had been a number of larger houses in Ballards Lane since the 15th century of which only the 18th century Cornwall House in Cornwall Avenue, now remains. The King of Prussia public house was a licensed property by the middle of the 18th century and may have originally been the King’s Head. It was substantially rebuilt in the 1960s and is currently called the Dignity .
In 1826 an act of parliament meant the construction of a new turnpike road
between Marylebone and North Finchley which, in Church End, is now called Regents Park Road and replaced Ducksetters Lane. The people of Finchley continued to use the old lane as the tollgate, situated in Ballards Lane at the junction of Nether Street, meant that parishioners had to pay to use their main thoroughfare. After much protest the gate was moved to just south of the junction of East End Road and was shortly afterwards removed. It is now commemorated with a blue plaque put up at the Queen’s Head by the Finchley Society. By 1845 Peter Kay had established a garden nursery on Ballards Lane, which was closed by 1895 (see also Long Lane), and in 1874 William Clements started a nursery at the junction of Regent's Park Road and Hendon Lane. Ford Madox Brown
lived at 1 Grove Villas on Regents Park Road between 1853 and 1855 where he painted a number of agricultural scenes and, most notably, " The Last of England
".
In 1867 Finchley and Hendon station was opened by the Edgware, Highgate and London Railway
which became later Finchley Station and finally in 1940 Finchley Central Station. The establishment of a railway and the removal of the tollgates enabled the development of residential streets and a row of shops, Albert Terrace, and The Railway Hotel(demolished in 1962 and replaced with The Minstrel, which became The Central and is now The Coconut Tree) . The area was still a village until news of a possible tramline between Golders Green and North Finchley encouraged suburban development. From the railway station north as far as Long Lane parades of shops were built from 1899 onwards, and were well established when in 1909 the trams were introduced. In 1911 King Edwards Hall replaced Clement’s nursery and was used as a VAD hospital during World War I
). The Alcazar Cinema (1913) between Princes and Redbourne Avenue was renamed the Bohemia in 1915 and during the 1920s relocated to where Gateway House is today. At the furthest end of the road is Finchley Police Station. There had been a police station in Finchley from 1873 but the present location dates from 1886 when Wentworth Lodge in Ballards Lane was bought. The old police station continued from 1889 until 1965 when it was rebuilt. Across the road from the police station is Victoria Park. Opened in 1902 it was intended to mark Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee and was Finchley’s first public park. From 1905 it was the location of Finchley Carnival.
(d. 1483), whose family held the manor until 1527. From 1622 until 1830 the manor was controlled by the descendants of Edward Allen, a London merchant. The last to hold the manor was Edward Cooper Arden and the last court was held in 1936. The manor house seen today, now the Sternberg Centre
, was built in 1723 by the Allens. The house was used as a boys’ school between 1819 and 1857. Between 1863 and 1882 it was the residence of George Plucknett, a magistrate, who used the main hall to hear cases. Between 1921 and 1981 the order of St Marie Auxiliatrice used the building as a girls' school. Until the beginning of the 20th century a curious oblong pond with a central island existed opposite the manor and was known locally as the “moat”; however these are more likely to have been fish ponds or openings created by the extraction of clay for making bricks for the building of the 16th-century building. The Avenue, which runs behind Avenue House
, is derived from a line of trees planted by Elizabeth King whose husband was lord of the manor in the 1600s. Built in 1859, the house and grounds were bought in 1874 by the ink manufacturer and later MP Henry 'Inky' Stephens
and left to the people of Finchley in 1918, the grounds later becoming a public park.
East of the manor house was Manor Farm where details of the calf and the cart in Dante Gabriel Rossetti
’s painting "Found" was painted. Finchley Cricket Club and an LA Fitness now occupy the site.
. On Squires Lane Finchley Urban District opened its first swimming pool in 1915, which was closed in the 1990s. Further along the road Squires Lane School was built in 1906, this became Manor School in 1932 and Manorside School in 1936.
. West Finchley Station was opened in 1932. Nether Street has one claim to fame as the childhood home of the actor Terry-Thomas who received some of his early education at Fernbank School in Hendon Lane.
West of Nether Street is Dollis Brook
, a tributary of the River Brent
which forms the western boundary between the ancient parishes of Finchley and Hendon. The viaduct carrying the Mill Hill East branch of the Northern Line at the bottom of Dollis Road was built sometime between 1863 to 1867 to designs by Sir John Fowler. It has thirteen arches and is, at 80 feet high, believed to be the highest point above sea level on the London Underground
system (picture). Beyond is a very large house called Nether Court. This estate was originally in the Mill Hill district of Hendon, but was brought into Finchley during boundary changes made in 1933. It was built by Henry Tubbs in 1883; he allowed Finchley Golf Club to use the grounds in 1892. The club ceased after 1914 but returned in 1930. At 60 Courthouse Gardens is a plaque put up by the Finchley Society to Harry Beck
designer of the London Underground tube map.
London Borough of Barnet
The London Borough of Barnet is a London borough in North London and forms part of Outer London. It has a population of 331,500 and covers . It borders Hertfordshire to the north and five other London boroughs: Harrow and Brent to the west, Camden and Haringey to the south-east and Enfield to the...
in London
London
London is the capital city of :England and the :United Kingdom, the largest metropolitan area in the United Kingdom, and the largest urban zone in the European Union by most measures. Located on the River Thames, London has been a major settlement for two millennia, its history going back to its...
, England
England
England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental...
.
Local landmarks
- La DelivranceLa DelivranceLa Délivrance is a 16-foot statue in bronze of a naked woman holding a sword aloft, and is the work of French sculptor Émile Oscar Guillaume . It is located at the southern edge of Finchley at Henly’s Corner, at the bottom of Regents Park Road...
- Christ's College FinchleyChrist's College FinchleyChrist's College is a state comprehensive secondary school in East Finchley, London, United Kingdom. It falls under the London Borough of Barnet Local Education Authority. It is a boys' school up to and including Year 11, and the sixth form is mixed, admitting up to 25% girls. The school presently...
- Avenue HouseAvenue HouseAvenue House is a large Victorian house situated on East End Road in Finchley in the London Borough of Barnet.Built in 1859 on land formerly known as Temple Croft Field, it was acquired in 1874 by ink magnate Henry Charles Stephens who enlarged and improved the house and grounds with advice from...
- College FarmCollege Farmright|thumb|300px|College Farm drivewayCollege Farm, a city farm and visitor attraction, is the last farm in Finchley, London. It is located in Regents Park Road, close to Henlys Corner. In 1868 George Barham, founder of Express Dairies, leased Sheephouse Farm, a property of about in Finchley...
Hendon Lane and the Church
Thomas Payne
Thomas Payne was a well-known bookseller in 18th century London. He was born in Brackley, Northamptonshire. From 1750 he ran a shop in Castle Street, Leicester Fields. The premises were notoriously small, but exceptionally popular with the literati of that period...
, the radical and bookseller, and Major John Cartwright
John Cartwright (political reformer)
John Cartwright was an English naval officer, Nottinghamshire militia major and prominent campaigner for parliamentary reform. He subsequently became known as the Father of Reform...
the political reformer.
Next to the Church in Hendon Lane stood the Old Queen’s Head, which took its name from Queen Anne, and was owned by the Finchley Charities. In 1833 the original inn burned down and was rebuilt, surviving until the lease on the house came up in 1857. The rector of Finchley, Thomas Reader White, refused to renew the lease on the house and the inn did not move to its present location as the New Queen’s Head, in East End Road until the 1860s . White renamed the buildings Finchley Hall and used it to house Christ's College Finchley
Christ's College Finchley
Christ's College is a state comprehensive secondary school in East Finchley, London, United Kingdom. It falls under the London Borough of Barnet Local Education Authority. It is a boys' school up to and including Year 11, and the sixth form is mixed, admitting up to 25% girls. The school presently...
. In 1902 Finchley Council took over the hall for offices but bomb damage (1940) made the building unsafe and they were demolished shortly after. Church End Library (1960) now occupies the site. From 1787 to 1880 a cage for criminals stood between the Church and the Old Queen’s Head. The Anglican community established a National school in 1813 which was rebuilt as St Mary’s School in 1852. In 1990 the school was re-established near to the brook at Dollis Park and now only the infant’s section, built in 1902, remains on the original location. In 1888 Finchley Council established a voluntary fire brigade near the top of Gravel Hill in Hendon Lane which remained at this location until 1933 (see Long Lane). In 1904 Finchley obtained the first motorised fire engine in Great Britain (see picture and article). Close by is Finchley Garden Village which was developed around a green in 1910 as a small garden suburb. At the bottom of Hendon Lane is Crooked Usage. Originally a part of Hendon Lane its picturesque name dates from the straightening of Hendon Lane in 1911-12.
Regents Park and Ballards Lane
Until the 1820s the only route from Temple FortuneTemple Fortune
Temple Fortune is a place in the London Borough of Barnet to the north of Golders Green. It is principally a shopping district used by residents of the Hampstead Garden Suburb. Between here and Golders Green, at Hoop Lane are two important cemeteries. The and interred here are the remains of a...
to Finchley was along a road called Ducksetters Lane (known as such by 1475). This ran parallel to the present Regents Park Road, to the west, and terminated where Gravel Hill is today. The road then passed along the very top part of Hendon Lane, before continuing north as Ballards Lane (known as such since 1424). There had been a number of larger houses in Ballards Lane since the 15th century of which only the 18th century Cornwall House in Cornwall Avenue, now remains. The King of Prussia public house was a licensed property by the middle of the 18th century and may have originally been the King’s Head. It was substantially rebuilt in the 1960s and is currently called the Dignity .
In 1826 an act of parliament meant the construction of a new turnpike road
Turnpike trust
Turnpike trusts in the United Kingdom were bodies set up by individual Acts of Parliament, with powers to collect road tolls for maintaining the principal highways in Britain from the 17th but especially during the 18th and 19th centuries...
between Marylebone and North Finchley which, in Church End, is now called Regents Park Road and replaced Ducksetters Lane. The people of Finchley continued to use the old lane as the tollgate, situated in Ballards Lane at the junction of Nether Street, meant that parishioners had to pay to use their main thoroughfare. After much protest the gate was moved to just south of the junction of East End Road and was shortly afterwards removed. It is now commemorated with a blue plaque put up at the Queen’s Head by the Finchley Society. By 1845 Peter Kay had established a garden nursery on Ballards Lane, which was closed by 1895 (see also Long Lane), and in 1874 William Clements started a nursery at the junction of Regent's Park Road and Hendon Lane. Ford Madox Brown
Ford Madox Brown
Ford Madox Brown was an English painter of moral and historical subjects, notable for his distinctively graphic and often Hogarthian version of the Pre-Raphaelite style. Arguably, his most notable painting was Work...
lived at 1 Grove Villas on Regents Park Road between 1853 and 1855 where he painted a number of agricultural scenes and, most notably, " The Last of England
The Last of England (painting)
The Last of England is an 1855 oil-on-panel painting by Ford Madox Brown depicting two emigrants leaving England to start a new life abroad.-Background:...
".
In 1867 Finchley and Hendon station was opened by the Edgware, Highgate and London Railway
Edgware, Highgate and London Railway
The Edgware, Highgate and London Railway was a railway in north London. The railway was a precursor of parts of London Underground's Northern Line and was, in the 1930s the core of an ambitious expansion plan for that line which was thwarted by the Second World War...
which became later Finchley Station and finally in 1940 Finchley Central Station. The establishment of a railway and the removal of the tollgates enabled the development of residential streets and a row of shops, Albert Terrace, and The Railway Hotel(demolished in 1962 and replaced with The Minstrel, which became The Central and is now The Coconut Tree) . The area was still a village until news of a possible tramline between Golders Green and North Finchley encouraged suburban development. From the railway station north as far as Long Lane parades of shops were built from 1899 onwards, and were well established when in 1909 the trams were introduced. In 1911 King Edwards Hall replaced Clement’s nursery and was used as a VAD hospital during World War I
World War I
World War I , which was predominantly called the World War or the Great War from its occurrence until 1939, and the First World War or World War I thereafter, was a major war centred in Europe that began on 28 July 1914 and lasted until 11 November 1918...
). The Alcazar Cinema (1913) between Princes and Redbourne Avenue was renamed the Bohemia in 1915 and during the 1920s relocated to where Gateway House is today. At the furthest end of the road is Finchley Police Station. There had been a police station in Finchley from 1873 but the present location dates from 1886 when Wentworth Lodge in Ballards Lane was bought. The old police station continued from 1889 until 1965 when it was rebuilt. Across the road from the police station is Victoria Park. Opened in 1902 it was intended to mark Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee and was Finchley’s first public park. From 1905 it was the location of Finchley Carnival.
Finchley Manor and surrounding district
Running west to east from Church End to East Finchley is East End Road. This was possibly Piryton Lane (known in 1423). Midway along this road is the manor house for the Bibbesworth estate, Finchley’s principal manor house. Bibbesworth was a sub-manor which had been born from an earlier estate owned by a family styling itself the Finchleys during the 13th century (although whether the area takes its name from the family or the other way round has never been entirely clear). By 1319 it was being called a manor. Richard Rook had a court in 1364 and these court leets and baron continued until the last was held in 1936. There was certainly a manor house by 1253 but this burnt down and was replaced during the 15th and 16th centuries. Of the original building only a ditch, possibly a moat, remains. The only Lord of note is William Hastings, Lord HastingsWilliam Hastings, 1st Baron Hastings
William Hastings, 1st Baron Hastings KG was an English nobleman. A follower of the House of York, he became a close friend and the most important courtier of King Edward IV, whom he served as Lord Chamberlain...
(d. 1483), whose family held the manor until 1527. From 1622 until 1830 the manor was controlled by the descendants of Edward Allen, a London merchant. The last to hold the manor was Edward Cooper Arden and the last court was held in 1936. The manor house seen today, now the Sternberg Centre
Sternberg Centre
The Sternberg Centre for Judaism, in East End Road, Finchley, London, is a campus hosting a number of Jewish institutions, built around the 18th-century Finchley manor house....
, was built in 1723 by the Allens. The house was used as a boys’ school between 1819 and 1857. Between 1863 and 1882 it was the residence of George Plucknett, a magistrate, who used the main hall to hear cases. Between 1921 and 1981 the order of St Marie Auxiliatrice used the building as a girls' school. Until the beginning of the 20th century a curious oblong pond with a central island existed opposite the manor and was known locally as the “moat”; however these are more likely to have been fish ponds or openings created by the extraction of clay for making bricks for the building of the 16th-century building. The Avenue, which runs behind Avenue House
Avenue House
Avenue House is a large Victorian house situated on East End Road in Finchley in the London Borough of Barnet.Built in 1859 on land formerly known as Temple Croft Field, it was acquired in 1874 by ink magnate Henry Charles Stephens who enlarged and improved the house and grounds with advice from...
, is derived from a line of trees planted by Elizabeth King whose husband was lord of the manor in the 1600s. Built in 1859, the house and grounds were bought in 1874 by the ink manufacturer and later MP Henry 'Inky' Stephens
Henry Charles Stephens
Henry Charles "Inky" Stephens was an English businessman and Conservative Party politician. He sat in the House of Commons from 1887 to 1900 as the Member of Parliament for the Hornsey division of Middlesex....
and left to the people of Finchley in 1918, the grounds later becoming a public park.
East of the manor house was Manor Farm where details of the calf and the cart in Dante Gabriel Rossetti
Dante Gabriel Rossetti
Dante Gabriel Rossetti was an English poet, illustrator, painter and translator. He founded the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood in 1848 with William Holman Hunt and John Everett Millais, and was later to be the main inspiration for a second generation of artists and writers influenced by the movement,...
’s painting "Found" was painted. Finchley Cricket Club and an LA Fitness now occupy the site.
Long Lane
Another road running from Church End to East Finchley is Long Lane (known as such by 1719) which may have been known in Medieval times as Ferrours Lane. Roughly half way along its route is Squires Lane which runs from the manor house to the High Road, the traditional division between East Finchley and Church End. Behind the large houses which fronted Ballards Lane on the west, Squires Lane, and Long Lane was Claigmar Vineyards started in 1874 by Peter Edmund Kay. By the 1890s the vinery’s 161 greenhouses were producing “100 tons each of grapes and tomatoes and 240,000 cucumbers a year”. In 1903 Finchley Electric Light Co. opened a generating station on the Kay’s site which was purchased by the Finchley Council two years later and later still, in 1955, by the Eastern Electricity Board. Sir Charles Redvers-Westlake, who was engineer at the works between 1935 – 1948, was later responsible for the building of the Owen Falls dam, UgandaUganda
Uganda , officially the Republic of Uganda, is a landlocked country in East Africa. Uganda is also known as the "Pearl of Africa". It is bordered on the east by Kenya, on the north by South Sudan, on the west by the Democratic Republic of the Congo, on the southwest by Rwanda, and on the south by...
. On Squires Lane Finchley Urban District opened its first swimming pool in 1915, which was closed in the 1990s. Further along the road Squires Lane School was built in 1906, this became Manor School in 1932 and Manorside School in 1936.
Nether Street and West Finchley
Nether Street was recognised by the mid-14th century as an old street, sometimes called “Lower Street” in later periods. Essentially an access road to properties and land, the most important of which were Moss Hall (see North Finchley) and Brent Lodge. Brent Lodge was built on land which had been part of “Warren’s Gift”, a charitable estate, sometime between 1817 and 1824. It was a substantial property whose grounds were considerably reduced during the 1920s. The house was demolished in 1962 despite efforts by the comedian Spike MilliganSpike Milligan
Terence Alan Patrick Seán "Spike" Milligan Hon. KBE was a comedian, writer, musician, poet, playwright, soldier and actor. His early life was spent in India, where he was born, but the majority of his working life was spent in the United Kingdom. He became an Irish citizen in 1962 after the...
. West Finchley Station was opened in 1932. Nether Street has one claim to fame as the childhood home of the actor Terry-Thomas who received some of his early education at Fernbank School in Hendon Lane.
West of Nether Street is Dollis Brook
Dollis Brook
Dollis Brook runs through the London Borough of Barnet in North London. It is a tributary of the River Brent, which is itself a tributary of the River Thames. The Dollis Valley Greenwalk follows almost all of Dollis Brook, apart from a short section at the beginning which passes through private...
, a tributary of the River Brent
River Brent
The Brent is a river within Greater London which is a tributary of the River Thames. It is 17.9 miles long, running north-east to south-west, and it joins the Thames on the Tideway at Brentford, Hounslow.- Hydronymy and etymology :...
which forms the western boundary between the ancient parishes of Finchley and Hendon. The viaduct carrying the Mill Hill East branch of the Northern Line at the bottom of Dollis Road was built sometime between 1863 to 1867 to designs by Sir John Fowler. It has thirteen arches and is, at 80 feet high, believed to be the highest point above sea level on the London Underground
London Underground
The London Underground is a rapid transit system serving a large part of Greater London and some parts of Buckinghamshire, Hertfordshire and Essex in England...
system (picture). Beyond is a very large house called Nether Court. This estate was originally in the Mill Hill district of Hendon, but was brought into Finchley during boundary changes made in 1933. It was built by Henry Tubbs in 1883; he allowed Finchley Golf Club to use the grounds in 1892. The club ceased after 1914 but returned in 1930. At 60 Courthouse Gardens is a plaque put up by the Finchley Society to Harry Beck
Harry Beck
Henry Charles Beck , known as Harry Beck, was an English engineering draftsman best known for creating the present London Underground Tube map in 1931. Beck drew up the diagram in his spare time while working as an engineering draftsman at the London Underground Signals Office...
designer of the London Underground tube map.
Further online resources for the history of Finchley
- Municipal Borough of FinchleyMunicipal Borough of FinchleyFinchley was a local government district in Middlesex, England, from 1878 to 1965. It formed part of the northern suburbs of London and was within the Metropolitan Police District and London Passenger Transport Area. Its former area now forms part of the London Borough of Barnet.-Formation:The...
for further population figures and Finchley's entries in Kelly's Directory - Ordnance Survey 1870s
- Historical Post Cards from the collection of Clive Smith
- Prints and Paintings from Guildhall Collection
- Victoria County History for a more detailed history of Finchley
- Barnet Archives is the London Borough of Barnet local history library
- Finchley Society has a local history collection
- London Metropolitan Archives is the archive for the Greater London area