Harold Raeburn
Encyclopedia
Harold Andrew Raeburn was a Scottish
mountaineer.
. His father William Raeburn, a brewer, married Jessie Ramsay in 1849. Harold Raeburn was their fourth son, and he grew up to enter his father's occupation as a brewer.
He died in Edinburgh, on 21 December 1926, and was buried in Warriston Cemetery
, Edinburgh.
As to his character, he very obviously possessed the necessary determination and drive of any ambitious and hard mountaineer; Lord Mackay provided a good description of Raeburn, writing that he was "... physically and mentally hard as nails, trained by solitary sea-cliff climbing after birds’ haunts, he was certain, unyielding and concise in every movement, both mental and physical." Mackay went on to remark that Raeburn had a capacity of grip that was astonishing: "He was possessed of strong muscular fingers that could press firmly and in a straight downward contact upon the very smallest hold."
Raeburn remained a bachelor all his life, occasionally climbing with women, including his sister Ruth, herself an expert climber. The Scottish Mountaineering Club
(SMC) was founded in 1889 and Raeburn joined in 1896. Within a few years he became its leading climber, recording many classic routes throughout Scotland. There are quite a few "Raeburn's Gullies" scattered across the land.
On Ben Nevis
in particular, he left a legacy of high-quality routes. A solo first ascent of Observatory Ridge (V.Diff.) in June 1901, Observatory Buttress (V.Diff.) solo in June 1902, his outstanding eponymous Arete (Severe) two days later on North-East Buttress, with Dr and Mrs Inglis Clark, and the first winter ascent of Green Gully (IV,4) in 1906. The latter ascent, with a Swiss alpinist called Eberhard Phildius, was barely recognised in a later guidebook, as he had not climbed the rocks of the Comb on the left, but had instead followed snow and ice in the gully. Indeed, Raeburn’s ascent was completely forgotten by 1937, when J. H. B. Bell
made the second winter ascent, thinking it was the first. Of Phildius himself little is known; he was almost certainly present in Fort William
to meet up with another SMC member, the Rev. A. E. Robertson, as Phildius was involved in the Youth Christian Movement.
On Buachaille Etive Mòr
in Glen Coe
, Raeburn made the first three ascents of Crowberry Gully, including a wintry 1909 ascent, and the second ascent and first Scottish ascent of Crowberry Ridge Direct (1902), then the hardest rock climb in Scotland. His style of rock climbing was very muscular; he held himself close to the rock, while his particular attention to the exact times of ascents could frequently drive his companions to exasperation. There is a humorous reference to this when a fellow club member called Newbigging made a first ascent on Ben Nevis and called it "Newbigging’s 80-Minute Route", this being an echo of "Raeburn’s 18-Minute Route" climbed the previous year.
In Easter 1920, during the SMC Meet at Fort William, Raeburn made what was probably his finest ascent in Scotland - the first winter ascent of Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis. With fellow members Mounsey and Goggs, and using a 100 ft rope, the three finished the route in just under six hours, with one long ice axe
each and no crampons.
in 1904. In the Alps he recorded fine climbs, including the first British guideless ascent of the Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn
in 1906, the ascent of the north face of Monte Disgrazia
in 1910 with his friend Willie Ling, the first solo traverse of the Meije
, as well as first ascents in Norway
and the Caucasus
. He made two expeditions to the Caucasus, in 1913 and 1914. During the first his party made first ascents of five mountains, and attempted Ushba
, being turned back by poor conditions. In 1914 four mountains were climbed, with Raeburn descending to find that World War I
had broken out. As a celebration following the end of the war, in 1919 Raeburn returned to the Alps and made a solo traverse of the Meije ridges.
In 1920, Raeburn joined an expedition to Kanchenjunga, and in 1921 he was mountaineering leader on a reconnaissance party
to Mount Everest
under the leadership of Colonel Charles Howard-Bury. He worked hard at organising and preparing the party while suffering from influenza. By the time the expedition reached Tibet
dysentery had broken out. One member of the party died, and Raeburn himself had to be carried down, spending two months in hospital. Against common sense, he returned to the expedition, but he was by then exhausted and never really recovered. Declining health eventually lead to his death five years later.
.
In 1920 his book was finally published, having been postponed due to the war.
, and he raced yachts in the Firth of Forth
. With his brother John, he raced as a member of the Royal Forth Yachting Club, based in Granton
. They were successful enough to win the club’s Corinthian Cup three times. Being presented with the Cup, they in turn presented it back to the RFYC, who re-named it the Raeburn Trophy. This is the name under which it is still raced.
. His diaries on the sea birds of the Shetland Islands
are lodged with the National Library of Scotland
. For some years these diaries could not be found, but a recent search unearthed them.
and Newtonmore
, was opened in 1988 and is named after him. There is a faint geographical connection here, as Raeburn was the first to explore the steep cliffs on nearby Creag Dubh, Newtonmore.
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
mountaineer.
Life
Raeburn was born in 1865 at 12 Grange Loan, EdinburghEdinburgh
Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland, the second largest city in Scotland, and the eighth most populous in the United Kingdom. The City of Edinburgh Council governs one of Scotland's 32 local government council areas. The council area includes urban Edinburgh and a rural area...
. His father William Raeburn, a brewer, married Jessie Ramsay in 1849. Harold Raeburn was their fourth son, and he grew up to enter his father's occupation as a brewer.
He died in Edinburgh, on 21 December 1926, and was buried in Warriston Cemetery
Warriston Cemetery
Warriston Cemetery lies in Warriston, one of the northern suburbs of Edinburgh, Scotland. It was built by the then newly formed Edinburgh Cemetery Company, and occupies around of land on a slightly sloping site...
, Edinburgh.
Scotland
It is not documented how or why Raeburn began climbing. Living under Edinburgh's Salisbury Crags and possessing a wiry, athletic build he soon adapted to the vertical world of rock and ice.As to his character, he very obviously possessed the necessary determination and drive of any ambitious and hard mountaineer; Lord Mackay provided a good description of Raeburn, writing that he was "... physically and mentally hard as nails, trained by solitary sea-cliff climbing after birds’ haunts, he was certain, unyielding and concise in every movement, both mental and physical." Mackay went on to remark that Raeburn had a capacity of grip that was astonishing: "He was possessed of strong muscular fingers that could press firmly and in a straight downward contact upon the very smallest hold."
Raeburn remained a bachelor all his life, occasionally climbing with women, including his sister Ruth, herself an expert climber. The Scottish Mountaineering Club
Scottish Mountaineering Club
The Scottish Mountaineering Club is Scotland's second oldest mountaineering club. Founded in 1889, in Glasgow, the private club, with about 400 members, publishes guidebooks and runs a list of Munroists.-History:At the time of the club's founding there were a number of experienced Alpinists...
(SMC) was founded in 1889 and Raeburn joined in 1896. Within a few years he became its leading climber, recording many classic routes throughout Scotland. There are quite a few "Raeburn's Gullies" scattered across the land.
On Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in the British Isles. It is located at the western end of the Grampian Mountains in the Lochaber area of the Scottish Highlands, close to the town of Fort William....
in particular, he left a legacy of high-quality routes. A solo first ascent of Observatory Ridge (V.Diff.) in June 1901, Observatory Buttress (V.Diff.) solo in June 1902, his outstanding eponymous Arete (Severe) two days later on North-East Buttress, with Dr and Mrs Inglis Clark, and the first winter ascent of Green Gully (IV,4) in 1906. The latter ascent, with a Swiss alpinist called Eberhard Phildius, was barely recognised in a later guidebook, as he had not climbed the rocks of the Comb on the left, but had instead followed snow and ice in the gully. Indeed, Raeburn’s ascent was completely forgotten by 1937, when J. H. B. Bell
J. H. B. Bell
James Horst Brunnerman Bell, was regarded by many as the leading Scots mountaineer in the period prior to World War II. He put up many serious routes on Ben Nevis and around, and tutored amongst others the younger W. H. Murray. His 'Scottish Climbs' is still well regarded. One of his 'first...
made the second winter ascent, thinking it was the first. Of Phildius himself little is known; he was almost certainly present in Fort William
Fort William, Scotland
Fort William is the second largest settlement in the highlands of Scotland and the largest town: only the city of Inverness is larger.Fort William is a major tourist centre with Glen Coe just to the south, Aonach Mòr to the north and Glenfinnan to the west, on the Road to the Isles...
to meet up with another SMC member, the Rev. A. E. Robertson, as Phildius was involved in the Youth Christian Movement.
On Buachaille Etive Mòr
Buachaille Etive Mòr
Buachaille Etive Mòr , generally known to climbers simply as The Buachaille or The Beuckle, is a mountain at the head of Glen Etive in the Highlands of Scotland...
in Glen Coe
Glen Coe
Glen Coe is a glen in the Highlands of Scotland. It lies in the southern part of the Lochaber committee area of Highland Council, and was formerly part of the county of Argyll. It is often considered one of the most spectacular and beautiful places in Scotland, and is a part of the designated...
, Raeburn made the first three ascents of Crowberry Gully, including a wintry 1909 ascent, and the second ascent and first Scottish ascent of Crowberry Ridge Direct (1902), then the hardest rock climb in Scotland. His style of rock climbing was very muscular; he held himself close to the rock, while his particular attention to the exact times of ascents could frequently drive his companions to exasperation. There is a humorous reference to this when a fellow club member called Newbigging made a first ascent on Ben Nevis and called it "Newbigging’s 80-Minute Route", this being an echo of "Raeburn’s 18-Minute Route" climbed the previous year.
In Easter 1920, during the SMC Meet at Fort William, Raeburn made what was probably his finest ascent in Scotland - the first winter ascent of Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis. With fellow members Mounsey and Goggs, and using a 100 ft rope, the three finished the route in just under six hours, with one long ice axe
Ice axe
An ice axe, is a multi-purpose ice and snow tool used by mountaineers both in the ascent and descent of routes which involve frozen conditions. It can be held and employed in a number of different ways, depending on the terrain encountered...
each and no crampons.
Abroad
From 1902 Raeburn climbed without guides, and he joined the Alpine ClubAlpine Club (UK)
The Alpine Club was founded in London in 1857 and was probably the world's first mountaineering club. It is UK mountaineering's acknowledged 'senior club'.-History:...
in 1904. In the Alps he recorded fine climbs, including the first British guideless ascent of the Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn
Matterhorn
The Matterhorn , Monte Cervino or Mont Cervin , is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Its summit is 4,478 metres high, making it one of the highest peaks in the Alps. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points...
in 1906, the ascent of the north face of Monte Disgrazia
Monte Disgrazia
Monte Disgrazia is a mountain in the Bregaglia range in the Italian Alps. It is the highest peak in the Val Masino group, situated south of the Bernina Range.It has five glaciers and five wild ridges and is a demanding climb....
in 1910 with his friend Willie Ling, the first solo traverse of the Meije
Meije
La Meije is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins range, located at the border of the Hautes-Alpes and Isère départements. It overlooks the nearby village of La Grave, a mountaineering centre and ski resort, well-known for its off-piste and extreme skiing possibilities.La Meije is composed of three...
, as well as first ascents in Norway
Norway
Norway , officially the Kingdom of Norway, is a Nordic unitary constitutional monarchy whose territory comprises the western portion of the Scandinavian Peninsula, Jan Mayen, and the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard and Bouvet Island. Norway has a total area of and a population of about 4.9 million...
and the Caucasus
Caucasus
The Caucasus, also Caucas or Caucasia , is a geopolitical region at the border of Europe and Asia, and situated between the Black and the Caspian sea...
. He made two expeditions to the Caucasus, in 1913 and 1914. During the first his party made first ascents of five mountains, and attempted Ushba
Ushba
Ushba is one of the most notable peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. It is located in the Svaneti region of Georgia, just south of the border with the Kabardino-Balkaria region of Russia. Although it does not rank in the 10 highest peaks of the range, Ushba is known as the "Matterhorn of the...
, being turned back by poor conditions. In 1914 four mountains were climbed, with Raeburn descending to find that World War I
World War I
World War I , which was predominantly called the World War or the Great War from its occurrence until 1939, and the First World War or World War I thereafter, was a major war centred in Europe that began on 28 July 1914 and lasted until 11 November 1918...
had broken out. As a celebration following the end of the war, in 1919 Raeburn returned to the Alps and made a solo traverse of the Meije ridges.
In 1920, Raeburn joined an expedition to Kanchenjunga, and in 1921 he was mountaineering leader on a reconnaissance party
Timeline of climbing Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at 8,848 metres above sea level.- 1921: Reconnaissance expedition:The first British expedition – organized and financed by the newly formed Mount Everest Committee – came under the leadership of Colonel Ashton Rushton, with Kyle Carter as...
to Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
under the leadership of Colonel Charles Howard-Bury. He worked hard at organising and preparing the party while suffering from influenza. By the time the expedition reached Tibet
Tibet
Tibet is a plateau region in Asia, north-east of the Himalayas. It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people as well as some other ethnic groups such as Monpas, Qiang, and Lhobas, and is now also inhabited by considerable numbers of Han and Hui people...
dysentery had broken out. One member of the party died, and Raeburn himself had to be carried down, spending two months in hospital. Against common sense, he returned to the expedition, but he was by then exhausted and never really recovered. Declining health eventually lead to his death five years later.
SMC and writings
Raeburn was Vice-President of the SMC from 1909 to 1911, later turning down the Presidency. His book, Mountaineering Art was in MS when World War I broke out, and long, hard hours in an aeroplane factory for the next six years stopped all climbing. At 49, he was too old for the Royal Flying CorpsRoyal Flying Corps
The Royal Flying Corps was the over-land air arm of the British military during most of the First World War. During the early part of the war, the RFC's responsibilities were centred on support of the British Army, via artillery co-operation and photographic reconnaissance...
.
In 1920 his book was finally published, having been postponed due to the war.
Sailing
His other sport was sailingSailing
Sailing is the propulsion of a vehicle and the control of its movement with large foils called sails. By changing the rigging, rudder, and sometimes the keel or centre board, a sailor manages the force of the wind on the sails in order to move the boat relative to its surrounding medium and...
, and he raced yachts in the Firth of Forth
Firth of Forth
The Firth of Forth is the estuary or firth of Scotland's River Forth, where it flows into the North Sea, between Fife to the north, and West Lothian, the City of Edinburgh and East Lothian to the south...
. With his brother John, he raced as a member of the Royal Forth Yachting Club, based in Granton
Granton, Edinburgh
Granton is a district in the north of Edinburgh, Scotland. Granton forms part of Edinburgh's waterfront along the Firth of Forth and is, historically, an industrial area having a large harbour. Granton is part of Edinburgh's large scale waterfront regeneration programme.-Name:Granton first appears...
. They were successful enough to win the club’s Corinthian Cup three times. Being presented with the Cup, they in turn presented it back to the RFYC, who re-named it the Raeburn Trophy. This is the name under which it is still raced.
Ornithology
Raeburn was a keen ornithologistOrnithology
Ornithology is a branch of zoology that concerns the study of birds. Several aspects of ornithology differ from related disciplines, due partly to the high visibility and the aesthetic appeal of birds...
. His diaries on the sea birds of the Shetland Islands
Shetland Islands
Shetland is a subarctic archipelago of Scotland that lies north and east of mainland Great Britain. The islands lie some to the northeast of Orkney and southeast of the Faroe Islands and form part of the division between the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the North Sea to the east. The total...
are lodged with the National Library of Scotland
National Library of Scotland
The National Library of Scotland is the legal deposit library of Scotland and is one of the country's National Collections. It is based in a collection of buildings in Edinburgh city centre. The headquarters is on George IV Bridge, between the Old Town and the university quarter...
. For some years these diaries could not be found, but a recent search unearthed them.
Commemoration
The SMC Raeburn Hut, between DalwhinnieDalwhinnie
Dalwhinnie "Meeting Place" is a small village in the Scottish Highlands.-Location:Dalwhinnie sits at an altitude of 351 m. It is one of the coldest villages in the UK, having an average annual temperature of 6.5oC, making it suitable for winter walking and mountaineering.It is north of Drumochter,...
and Newtonmore
Newtonmore
Newtonmore is a village in the Highland council area of Scotland. It has a population of about 1000. The village is only a few miles from a location that is claimed to be the exact geographical centre of Scotland...
, was opened in 1988 and is named after him. There is a faint geographical connection here, as Raeburn was the first to explore the steep cliffs on nearby Creag Dubh, Newtonmore.
External links
- Scottish Mountaineering Club has a good series of early SMC Meets, several including Raeburn.