Haramosh Peak
Encyclopedia
Haramosh Peak is a mountain
located in the Karakoram
range
of the Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan
. Its height is also often given as 7,409m.
, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It rises steeply above the north bank of the Indus River
, a little ways upstream of its confluence with the Gilgit River
. The massif
has two summits, Haramosh Peak and Haramosh Kutwal Laila Peak.
team investigated a northeastern route in 1955. In 1957, Tony Streather, John Emery, Bernard Jillot and Rae Culbert, a team from Oxford University experienced repeated falls and misfortunes during a failed attempt, leading to the deaths of Jillot and Culbert. Streather and Emery survived. The latter suffered severe frostbite and lost all of his fingers and toes.
The epic tale of this expedition is told in Ralph Barker's "The Last Blue Mountain", ISBN 1-904466-30-3.
Haramosh was first climbed on 4 August 1958 by the Austria
ns Heinrich Roiss, Stefan Pauer and Franz Mandl,
via the Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) and the East Ridge, roughly the route of the
1957 tragedy.
According to the Himalayan Index, there have been only three more ascents, in 1978 (Japanese, West Ridge), 1979 (unknown party/route), and 1988 (Polish, Southwest Face).
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...
located in the Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...
range
Mountain range
A mountain range is a single, large mass consisting of a succession of mountains or narrowly spaced mountain ridges, with or without peaks, closely related in position, direction, formation, and age; a component part of a mountain system or of a mountain chain...
of the Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan
Pakistan
Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...
. Its height is also often given as 7,409m.
Location
Haramosh lies about 65 kilometres (40 mi) east of Gilgit, in the south-central region of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh MountainsRakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains
The Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains are a subrange of the Karakoram range. They are located in the Gilgit District, in the Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan...
, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It rises steeply above the north bank of the Indus River
Indus River
The Indus River is a major river which flows through Pakistan. It also has courses through China and India.Originating in the Tibetan plateau of western China in the vicinity of Lake Mansarovar in Tibet Autonomous Region, the river runs a course through the Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir and...
, a little ways upstream of its confluence with the Gilgit River
Gilgit River
Gilgit River is a tributary of the Indus River, and flows past the town of Gilgit. It is located in the Northern Areas of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. The Gilgit starts from Shandur lake. The Gilgit River is also referred to as the Ghizar River....
. The massif
Massif
In geology, a massif is a section of a planet's crust that is demarcated by faults or flexures. In the movement of the crust, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole...
has two summits, Haramosh Peak and Haramosh Kutwal Laila Peak.
Climbing history
Haramosh was first reconnoitered in 1947 by a Swiss team, and a GermanGermany
Germany , officially the Federal Republic of Germany , is a federal parliamentary republic in Europe. The country consists of 16 states while the capital and largest city is Berlin. Germany covers an area of 357,021 km2 and has a largely temperate seasonal climate...
team investigated a northeastern route in 1955. In 1957, Tony Streather, John Emery, Bernard Jillot and Rae Culbert, a team from Oxford University experienced repeated falls and misfortunes during a failed attempt, leading to the deaths of Jillot and Culbert. Streather and Emery survived. The latter suffered severe frostbite and lost all of his fingers and toes.
The epic tale of this expedition is told in Ralph Barker's "The Last Blue Mountain", ISBN 1-904466-30-3.
Haramosh was first climbed on 4 August 1958 by the Austria
Austria
Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country of roughly 8.4 million people in Central Europe. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the...
ns Heinrich Roiss, Stefan Pauer and Franz Mandl,
via the Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) and the East Ridge, roughly the route of the
1957 tragedy.
According to the Himalayan Index, there have been only three more ascents, in 1978 (Japanese, West Ridge), 1979 (unknown party/route), and 1988 (Polish, Southwest Face).
Sources
- High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks by Jill Neate, ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
- The Last Blue Mountain by Ralph Barker, Ripping Yarns.com. ISBN 1-904466-30-3.
- Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram by Jerzy Wala, 1990. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
- Himalayan Index
External links
- Picture of the Haramosh south face
- A world peak list ranked by local relief and steepness featuring Haramosh as the world #17.
