Frank Winder
Encyclopedia
Frank Winder was an Irish
professor of biochemistry
, a naturalist
, and one of Ireland's leading rock climbers
in the 1950s and 1960s.
, and developed an early interest in botany
and zoology
, cycling
around the Irish countryside looking for interesting specimens. In 1945 he entered University College Dublin
(UCD) to study science and came to the attention of Arthur Stelfox
of the Natural History Museum
. Stelfox introduced Winder to entomologist Philip Graves
, who promptly sent the 18-year-old Winder off to the mountains of Kerry
in search of a rare butterfly
, but Winder returned with a specimen of a dragonfly
, Cordulia aenea, which was previously unknown in Ireland.
While climbing a steep gully on Knocknagantee in Kerry in search of a rare fern
, Winder sustained a long fall but luckily was not seriously injured. It was that fall which made him realise that he would need to acquire rock-climbing skills if he was to explore cliffs in relative safety. (He later revisited the site of his fall, establishing a new rock-climb on the neighbouring buttress.)
Winder graduated from UCD with a BSc
in biochemistry in 1948 and an MSc
the following year. In 1950, after a brief period working for Glaxo, he joined a Medical Research Council of Ireland research laboratory in Trinity College Dublin working on the chemotherapy
of tuberculosis
, under the leadership of Vincent Barry. The team developed a class of phenazine
s that proved very effective in the treatment of TB and leprosy
, and remain in use worldwide. Winder also pioneered research into the primary anti-TB drug, isoniazid
; his work on this continues to be cited internationally.
In Trinity, he became a lecturer in biochemistry in 1960, a fellow of the college in 1962, reader in 1966, dean of Graduate Studies 1974 to 1977 and professor in 1975. He was conferred with the degree of Doctor of Science in 1972. He served as director of the Biology Teaching Centre from 1986 to 1991 and was co-opted to Senior Fellowship in 1985. He served on the Board of College where he made contributions to the debates on policy and other business. He retired in 1996, but continued to come to college every day until shortly before his death.
In the 1950s Winder was one the founders of Tuairim, a group of young professionals who formed a think-tank to examine the problems affecting Ireland at the time, especially that of emigration
. He was elected to membership of the Royal Irish Academy
in 1961 and held the office of vice-president three times.
(IMC) shortly after its founding in 1948, and quickly became one of its leading members. He established many new rock-climbs in various parts of Ireland, especially in counties Wicklow
, Donegal
, and Galway
. His most notable first ascent
s were made during the period 1950 to 1960, and include:
Many of those climbs are now regarded as classics, and challenging even by today's much-higher standards.
Winder also climbed extensively abroad, visiting the Alps
, Britain
, and North America
(Yosemite and Grand Tetons).
He was elected president of the IMC for two terms in 1960s and 80s. He also played a prominent role in mountain environmental organisations such as Wicklow Uplands Council and Keep Ireland Open
.
Ireland
Ireland is an island to the northwest of continental Europe. It is the third-largest island in Europe and the twentieth-largest island on Earth...
professor of biochemistry
Biochemistry
Biochemistry, sometimes called biological chemistry, is the study of chemical processes in living organisms, including, but not limited to, living matter. Biochemistry governs all living organisms and living processes...
, a naturalist
Naturalist
Naturalist may refer to:* Practitioner of natural history* Conservationist* Advocate of naturalism * Naturalist , autobiography-See also:* The American Naturalist, periodical* Naturalism...
, and one of Ireland's leading rock climbers
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
in the 1950s and 1960s.
Scientific career
Winder received his early education at Belvedere CollegeBelvedere College
Belvedere College SJ is a private secondary school for boys located on Great Denmark Street, Dublin, Ireland. It is also known as St. Francis Xavier's College....
, and developed an early interest in botany
Botany
Botany, plant science, or plant biology is a branch of biology that involves the scientific study of plant life. Traditionally, botany also included the study of fungi, algae and viruses...
and zoology
Zoology
Zoology |zoölogy]]), is the branch of biology that relates to the animal kingdom, including the structure, embryology, evolution, classification, habits, and distribution of all animals, both living and extinct...
, cycling
Cycling
Cycling, also called bicycling or biking, is the use of bicycles for transport, recreation, or for sport. Persons engaged in cycling are cyclists or bicyclists...
around the Irish countryside looking for interesting specimens. In 1945 he entered University College Dublin
University College Dublin
University College Dublin ) - formally known as University College Dublin - National University of Ireland, Dublin is the Republic of Ireland's largest, and Ireland's second largest, university, with over 1,300 faculty and 17,000 students...
(UCD) to study science and came to the attention of Arthur Stelfox
Arthur Wilson Stelfox
Arthur Wilson Stelfox was an Irish architect and naturalist. He wrote many papers on Botany, Malacology and entomology.Arthur Wilson Stelfox was born in Belfast. He is best known for his work on Hymenoptera, on vertebrate bones from caves and on non-marine Mollusca especially the genus Pisidium....
of the Natural History Museum
Natural History Museum (Ireland)
Ireland's Natural History Museum , often called the Dead Zoo a branch of the National Museum of Ireland, is housed on Merrion Street in Dublin, Ireland...
. Stelfox introduced Winder to entomologist Philip Graves
Philip Graves
Philip Perceval Graves was an Irish journalist and writer. While working as a foreign correspondent of The Times in Constantinople, he exposed The Protocols of the Elders of Zion as an antisemitic plagiarism, fraud, and hoax.-Life:Graves, eldest son of the writer Alfred Perceval Graves , was born...
, who promptly sent the 18-year-old Winder off to the mountains of Kerry
County Kerry
Kerry means the "people of Ciar" which was the name of the pre-Gaelic tribe who lived in part of the present county. The legendary founder of the tribe was Ciar, son of Fergus mac Róich. In Old Irish "Ciar" meant black or dark brown, and the word continues in use in modern Irish as an adjective...
in search of a rare butterfly
Butterfly
A butterfly is a mainly day-flying insect of the order Lepidoptera, which includes the butterflies and moths. Like other holometabolous insects, the butterfly's life cycle consists of four parts: egg, larva, pupa and adult. Most species are diurnal. Butterflies have large, often brightly coloured...
, but Winder returned with a specimen of a dragonfly
Dragonfly
A dragonfly is a winged insect belonging to the order Odonata, the suborder Epiprocta or, in the strict sense, the infraorder Anisoptera . It is characterized by large multifaceted eyes, two pairs of strong transparent wings, and an elongated body...
, Cordulia aenea, which was previously unknown in Ireland.
While climbing a steep gully on Knocknagantee in Kerry in search of a rare fern
Fern
A fern is any one of a group of about 12,000 species of plants belonging to the botanical group known as Pteridophyta. Unlike mosses, they have xylem and phloem . They have stems, leaves, and roots like other vascular plants...
, Winder sustained a long fall but luckily was not seriously injured. It was that fall which made him realise that he would need to acquire rock-climbing skills if he was to explore cliffs in relative safety. (He later revisited the site of his fall, establishing a new rock-climb on the neighbouring buttress.)
Winder graduated from UCD with a BSc
BSC
BSC is a three-letter abbreviation that may refer to:Science and technology* Bachelor of Science , an undergraduate degree* Base Station Controller, part of a mobile phone network; see: Base Station subsystem...
in biochemistry in 1948 and an MSc
MSC
- Computers:* Mario Strikers Charged* Microsoft Common Console Document, file for the Microsoft Management Console* Microelectronics Support Centre* Microsoft Corporation* MIDI Show Control* Message Sequence Chart...
the following year. In 1950, after a brief period working for Glaxo, he joined a Medical Research Council of Ireland research laboratory in Trinity College Dublin working on the chemotherapy
Chemotherapy
Chemotherapy is the treatment of cancer with an antineoplastic drug or with a combination of such drugs into a standardized treatment regimen....
of tuberculosis
Tuberculosis
Tuberculosis, MTB, or TB is a common, and in many cases lethal, infectious disease caused by various strains of mycobacteria, usually Mycobacterium tuberculosis. Tuberculosis usually attacks the lungs but can also affect other parts of the body...
, under the leadership of Vincent Barry. The team developed a class of phenazine
Phenazine
Phenazine , also called azophenylene, dibenzo-p-diazine, dibenzopyrazine, and acridizine, is a dibenzo annulated pyrazine and the parent substance of many dyestuffs, such as the eurhodines, toluylene red, indulines and safranines.-Synthesis:A classic method for the synthesis of phenazine is the...
s that proved very effective in the treatment of TB and leprosy
Leprosy
Leprosy or Hansen's disease is a chronic disease caused by the bacteria Mycobacterium leprae and Mycobacterium lepromatosis. Named after physician Gerhard Armauer Hansen, leprosy is primarily a granulomatous disease of the peripheral nerves and mucosa of the upper respiratory tract; skin lesions...
, and remain in use worldwide. Winder also pioneered research into the primary anti-TB drug, isoniazid
Isoniazid
Isoniazid , also known as isonicotinylhydrazine , is an organic compound that is the first-line antituberculosis medication in prevention and treatment. It was first discovered in 1912, and later in 1951 it was found to be effective against tuberculosis by inhibiting its mycolic acid...
; his work on this continues to be cited internationally.
In Trinity, he became a lecturer in biochemistry in 1960, a fellow of the college in 1962, reader in 1966, dean of Graduate Studies 1974 to 1977 and professor in 1975. He was conferred with the degree of Doctor of Science in 1972. He served as director of the Biology Teaching Centre from 1986 to 1991 and was co-opted to Senior Fellowship in 1985. He served on the Board of College where he made contributions to the debates on policy and other business. He retired in 1996, but continued to come to college every day until shortly before his death.
In the 1950s Winder was one the founders of Tuairim, a group of young professionals who formed a think-tank to examine the problems affecting Ireland at the time, especially that of emigration
Emigration
Emigration is the act of leaving one's country or region to settle in another. It is the same as immigration but from the perspective of the country of origin. Human movement before the establishment of political boundaries or within one state is termed migration. There are many reasons why people...
. He was elected to membership of the Royal Irish Academy
Royal Irish Academy
The Royal Irish Academy , based in Dublin, is an all-Ireland, independent, academic body that promotes study and excellence in the sciences, humanities and social sciences. It is one of Ireland's premier learned societies and cultural institutions and currently has around 420 Members, elected in...
in 1961 and held the office of vice-president three times.
Climbing career
Frank Winder joined the Irish Mountaineering ClubIrish Mountaineering Club
The Irish Mountaineering Club is a mountaineering club based in County Wicklow, Ireland, although most of its members come from the Dublin Region. Its activities encompass all aspects of mountaineering, but its climbing activities are most prominent...
(IMC) shortly after its founding in 1948, and quickly became one of its leading members. He established many new rock-climbs in various parts of Ireland, especially in counties Wicklow
County Wicklow
County Wicklow is a county in Ireland. It is part of the Mid-East Region and is also located in the province of Leinster. It is named after the town of Wicklow, which derives from the Old Norse name Víkingalág or Wykynlo. Wicklow County Council is the local authority for the county...
, Donegal
County Donegal
County Donegal is a county in Ireland. It is part of the Border Region and is also located in the province of Ulster. It is named after the town of Donegal. Donegal County Council is the local authority for the county...
, and Galway
County Galway
County Galway is a county in Ireland. It is located in the West Region and is also part of the province of Connacht. It is named after the city of Galway. Galway County Council is the local authority for the county. There are several strongly Irish-speaking areas in the west of the county...
. His most notable first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
s were made during the period 1950 to 1960, and include:
- Dalkey QuarryDalkey QuarryDalkey Quarry is a disused granite quarry located in the Dublin suburb of Dalkey. It was used for quarrying during the 19th century, and is now part of Killiney Hill Park, a public park...
- Bracket Wall (HVS), Winder's Slab (VS), Winder's Crack (VD), Eliminate A Dash (S) - GlendaloughGlendaloughGlendalough or Glendaloch is a glacial valley in County Wicklow, Ireland. It is renowned for its Early Medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, a hermit priest, and partly destroyed in 1398 by English troops....
- Quartz Gully (grade HS), Prelude/Nightmare (VS), Fanfare (VS), Spillikin Ridge (now harder at E3, climbed by Winder with several points of aid), Lethe (VS), Forest Rhapsody (VS), Cúchulainn Groove (HS) - Lough Barra (DerryveaghDerryveagh MountainsThe Derryveagh Mountains is the major mountain range in County Donegal, Ireland. It makes up much of the landmass of the county, and is the area of Ireland with the lowest population density. The mountains separate the coastal parts of the county, such as Gweedore and Glenties, from the major...
, Co. Donegal) - Diversion (S), Triversion (S), Surplomb Grise (VS), Fomorian (HS), Tarquin's Groove (HS) - Lough Belshade (BluestacksBluestack MountainsThe Bluestack Mountains or Blue Stack Mountains, also called the Croaghgorms , are the major mountain range in the south of County Donegal, Ireland. They provide a barrier between the south of the county, such as Donegal Town and Ballyshannon, and the towns to the north and west such as Dungloe and...
, Co. Donegal) - Byzantium (VS) - LuggalaLuggalaLuggala , also called Fancy Mountain , is a mountain in the Wicklow Mountains, Ireland. Its cliffs are situated above a lake, Lough Tay, and are a popular location for rock climbing.Luggala is about southwest of Dublin.- Luggala Estate :...
- Spearhead (HVS) - Poisoned Glen (Bluestacks, Co. Donegal) - Route Two (S), Ulysses (VS), Rafiki (VS)
Many of those climbs are now regarded as classics, and challenging even by today's much-higher standards.
Winder also climbed extensively abroad, visiting the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
, Britain
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern IrelandIn the United Kingdom and Dependencies, other languages have been officially recognised as legitimate autochthonous languages under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages...
, and North America
North America
North America is a continent wholly within the Northern Hemisphere and almost wholly within the Western Hemisphere. It is also considered a northern subcontinent of the Americas...
(Yosemite and Grand Tetons).
He was elected president of the IMC for two terms in 1960s and 80s. He also played a prominent role in mountain environmental organisations such as Wicklow Uplands Council and Keep Ireland Open
Keep Ireland Open
Keep Ireland Open is a voluntary campaign organisation established to promote access to the Irish countryside and walkways. Founded in 1994, its current chairman is former Green Party TD, Roger Garland. The group believes Irish legislation protecting rights-of-way and access to recreational use of...
.