Edge wave
Encyclopedia
In fluid dynamics
, an edge wave is a surface gravity wave fixed by refraction
against a rigid boundary, often a shoaling
beach
. Progressive edge waves travel along this boundary, varying sinusoidally along it and diminishing exponentially in the offshore direction.
Fluid dynamics
In physics, fluid dynamics is a sub-discipline of fluid mechanics that deals with fluid flow—the natural science of fluids in motion. It has several subdisciplines itself, including aerodynamics and hydrodynamics...
, an edge wave is a surface gravity wave fixed by refraction
Refraction
Refraction is the change in direction of a wave due to a change in its speed. It is essentially a surface phenomenon . The phenomenon is mainly in governance to the law of conservation of energy. The proper explanation would be that due to change of medium, the phase velocity of the wave is changed...
against a rigid boundary, often a shoaling
Wave shoaling
In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves entering shallower water increase in wave height . It is caused by the fact that the group velocity, which is also the wave-energy transport velocity, decreases with the reduction of water depth...
beach
Beach
A beach is a geological landform along the shoreline of an ocean, sea, lake or river. It usually consists of loose particles which are often composed of rock, such as sand, gravel, shingle, pebbles or cobblestones...
. Progressive edge waves travel along this boundary, varying sinusoidally along it and diminishing exponentially in the offshore direction.