Bob Kamps
Encyclopedia
Bob Kamps was an American
rock climber whose climbing career spanned five decades. Born in Wisconsin
, he began climbing in California in 1955, and was a member of that cadre of Yosemite pioneers who first ascended many of its great walls in the 1950s and 1960s. He was particularly adept on steep rock faces, and was among the first to shift attention from aid climbing
to free climbing
. Over the years he made more than 3,100 climbs. Many were first ascents or first free ascents.
Kamps' interests ranged from ten-foot boulders to high mountain walls. He bouldered
at Stoney Point
at Chatsworth
, California
, for fifty years. His companions in the 1950s and 1960s included Royal Robbins
, Yvon Chouinard
, Mark Powell, and Dave Rearick. After his death in 2005, a memorial service was held there. Kamps bouldered almost everywhere he climbed for any length of time, and John Gill
joined him on numerous occasions in the Tetons and Black Hills
.
Kamps climbed extensively in California
, Arizona
, Colorado
, Wyoming
, and South Dakota
. His climbing partners included Mark Powell, Dave Rearick
, Tom Higgins
, and Yvon Chouinard
. In the Tetons in 1958, Kamps teamed with Chouinard to make the first ascent of the imposing Satisfaction Buttress; but the two were turned back the following year on an attempt on the forbidding north face of the Crooked Thumb on 12325 feet (3,756.7 m) Teewinot Mountain
, when Chouinard's aid pitons pulled out of the decomposing rock and he took a 150 feet (45.7 m) fall through open space, held on belay by Kamps. (The climb was completed seven years later by Pete Cleveland).
In the summer of 1960, Kamps and Dave Rearick received permission from the National Park Service
to attempt to scale the famous Diamond
on 14255 feet (4,344.9 m) Longs Peak near Estes Park, Colorado. There were existing routes to the side of the massive, slightly overhanging wall, but none up the center. Their successful ascent took over two days, and involved both aid climbing and free climbing. After descending the two climbers were given a parade through Estes Park, and the feat was reported in newspapers throughout the US and in Time Magazine.
Kamps and Powell made the first free ascent of a route called Chingadera on Tahquitz Rock in California in 1967. Kamps's placement of a critical protective bolt
while on lead, using a manual twist drill, earned him the admiration of later generations of climbers, who have found even clipping onto the bolt is difficult. The climb was an early 5.11
. That same year, Kamps and Higgins - both highly proficient on slabs and faces with tiny holds - climbed Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome
in Tuolumne Meadows
, (Hard 5.10
).
The granite Needles of the Black Hills of South Dakota – slim spires ranging from twenty to well over a hundred feet in height – were a favorite summer playground for Kamps. Steep and adorned with crystalline nubbins, frequently the rock requires the sort of face-climbing of which Kamps was a master. His many first ascents include Sore Thumb (5.9 - 1965) and Freak's Fright (5.10 – 1967).
A traditional climber
for most of his career, he turned to sport climbing
in his 60s, and led 5.10 and 5.11 climbs well into his 70s. He was noted for his intelligence, charm, and sly wit. Kamps died in March 2005 of a massive heart attack
while on the wall of a climbing gym. He is survived by his wife, Bonnie – his biggest supporter.
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
rock climber whose climbing career spanned five decades. Born in Wisconsin
Wisconsin
Wisconsin is a U.S. state located in the north-central United States and is part of the Midwest. It is bordered by Minnesota to the west, Iowa to the southwest, Illinois to the south, Lake Michigan to the east, Michigan to the northeast, and Lake Superior to the north. Wisconsin's capital is...
, he began climbing in California in 1955, and was a member of that cadre of Yosemite pioneers who first ascended many of its great walls in the 1950s and 1960s. He was particularly adept on steep rock faces, and was among the first to shift attention from aid climbing
Aid climbing
Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress....
to free climbing
Free climbing
Free climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber uses only hands, feet and other parts of the body to ascend, employing ropes and forms of climbing protection to prevent falls only....
. Over the years he made more than 3,100 climbs. Many were first ascents or first free ascents.
Kamps' interests ranged from ten-foot boulders to high mountain walls. He bouldered
Bouldering
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...
at Stoney Point
Stoney Point (California)
Stoney Point, also known as the Stoney Point Outcroppings, is a city park near the north end of Topanga Canyon Boulevard in Chatsworth, California...
at Chatsworth
Chatsworth, Los Angeles, California
Chatsworth is a district of Los Angeles, California, United States; in the northwestern San Fernando Valley. The district is bordered by the Santa Susana Mountains and unincorporated Los Angeles County lands to the north, Porter Ranch to the northeast, Northridge to the east, West Hills, Canoga...
, California
California
California is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area...
, for fifty years. His companions in the 1950s and 1960s included Royal Robbins
Royal Robbins
Royal Robbins is one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz he went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite...
, Yvon Chouinard
Yvon Chouinard
Yvon Chouinard is a rock climber, environmentalist and outdoor industry businessman, noted for his contributions to climbing, climbing equipment and the outdoor gear business. His second company, Patagonia is known for its environmental focus...
, Mark Powell, and Dave Rearick. After his death in 2005, a memorial service was held there. Kamps bouldered almost everywhere he climbed for any length of time, and John Gill
John Gill (climber)
John Gill is an American mathematician who has achieved recognition for his rock-climbing. He is considered the Father of Modern Bouldering by many climbers.-Early life and professional career:...
joined him on numerous occasions in the Tetons and Black Hills
Black Hills
The Black Hills are a small, isolated mountain range rising from the Great Plains of North America in western South Dakota and extending into Wyoming, USA. Set off from the main body of the Rocky Mountains, the region is something of a geological anomaly—accurately described as an "island of...
.
Kamps climbed extensively in California
California
California is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area...
, Arizona
Arizona
Arizona ; is a state located in the southwestern region of the United States. It is also part of the western United States and the mountain west. The capital and largest city is Phoenix...
, Colorado
Colorado
Colorado is a U.S. state that encompasses much of the Rocky Mountains as well as the northeastern portion of the Colorado Plateau and the western edge of the Great Plains...
, Wyoming
Wyoming
Wyoming is a state in the mountain region of the Western United States. The western two thirds of the state is covered mostly with the mountain ranges and rangelands in the foothills of the Eastern Rocky Mountains, while the eastern third of the state is high elevation prairie known as the High...
, and South Dakota
South Dakota
South Dakota is a state located in the Midwestern region of the United States. It is named after the Lakota and Dakota Sioux American Indian tribes. Once a part of Dakota Territory, South Dakota became a state on November 2, 1889. The state has an area of and an estimated population of just over...
. His climbing partners included Mark Powell, Dave Rearick
Dave Rearick
Dave Rearick is an American rock climber and mathematician. A pioneer of Yosemite's golden age of climbing, Rearick - frequently climbing with Bob Kamps – was instrumental in shifting the focus from aid climbing to free climbing in the 1950s....
, Tom Higgins
Tom Higgins (rock climber)
Thomas John Higgins is a California rock climber with many first and first free ascents primarily in the western United States...
, and Yvon Chouinard
Yvon Chouinard
Yvon Chouinard is a rock climber, environmentalist and outdoor industry businessman, noted for his contributions to climbing, climbing equipment and the outdoor gear business. His second company, Patagonia is known for its environmental focus...
. In the Tetons in 1958, Kamps teamed with Chouinard to make the first ascent of the imposing Satisfaction Buttress; but the two were turned back the following year on an attempt on the forbidding north face of the Crooked Thumb on 12325 feet (3,756.7 m) Teewinot Mountain
Teewinot Mountain
Teewinot Mountain is the sixth highest peak in the Teton Range, Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. The name of the mountain is derived from the Shoshone Native American word meaning "many pinnacles". The peak is northeast of the Grand Teton and the two are separated from one another by the Teton...
, when Chouinard's aid pitons pulled out of the decomposing rock and he took a 150 feet (45.7 m) fall through open space, held on belay by Kamps. (The climb was completed seven years later by Pete Cleveland).
In the summer of 1960, Kamps and Dave Rearick received permission from the National Park Service
National Park Service
The National Park Service is the U.S. federal agency that manages all national parks, many national monuments, and other conservation and historical properties with various title designations...
to attempt to scale the famous Diamond
Longs Peak
Longs Peak is one of the 53 mountains with summits over 14,000 feet in Colorado. It can be prominently seen from Longmont, Colorado, as well as from the rest of the Colorado Front Range. It is named after Major Stephen Long, who explored the area in the 1820s...
on 14255 feet (4,344.9 m) Longs Peak near Estes Park, Colorado. There were existing routes to the side of the massive, slightly overhanging wall, but none up the center. Their successful ascent took over two days, and involved both aid climbing and free climbing. After descending the two climbers were given a parade through Estes Park, and the feat was reported in newspapers throughout the US and in Time Magazine.
Kamps and Powell made the first free ascent of a route called Chingadera on Tahquitz Rock in California in 1967. Kamps's placement of a critical protective bolt
Glossary of climbing terms
This page describes terms and jargon related to climbing and mountaineering.-A:American death triangle : An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor...
while on lead, using a manual twist drill, earned him the admiration of later generations of climbers, who have found even clipping onto the bolt is difficult. The climb was an early 5.11
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
. That same year, Kamps and Higgins - both highly proficient on slabs and faces with tiny holds - climbed Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome
Fairview Dome
Fairview Dome is a prominent granite dome in Yosemite National Park, located north of Cathedral Peak and west of Tuolumne Meadows.John Muir wrote of the peak:...
in Tuolumne Meadows
Tuolumne Meadows
Tuolumne Meadows is a gentle, dome-studded sub-alpine meadowy section of the Tuolumne River, in the eastern section of Yosemite National Park. Its approximate location is . Its approximate elevation is 8619 feet .-Natural History:...
, (Hard 5.10
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
).
The granite Needles of the Black Hills of South Dakota – slim spires ranging from twenty to well over a hundred feet in height – were a favorite summer playground for Kamps. Steep and adorned with crystalline nubbins, frequently the rock requires the sort of face-climbing of which Kamps was a master. His many first ascents include Sore Thumb (5.9 - 1965) and Freak's Fright (5.10 – 1967).
A traditional climber
Traditional climbing
Traditional climbing, or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers places all gear required to protect against falls , and removes it when a passage is complete...
for most of his career, he turned to sport climbing
Sport climbing
Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...
in his 60s, and led 5.10 and 5.11 climbs well into his 70s. He was noted for his intelligence, charm, and sly wit. Kamps died in March 2005 of a massive heart attack
Myocardial infarction
Myocardial infarction or acute myocardial infarction , commonly known as a heart attack, results from the interruption of blood supply to a part of the heart, causing heart cells to die...
while on the wall of a climbing gym. He is survived by his wife, Bonnie – his biggest supporter.
Notable ascents
- 1959 North Face of Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite ValleyYosemite ValleyYosemite Valley is a glacial valley in Yosemite National Park in the western Sierra Nevada mountains of California, carved out by the Merced River. The valley is about long and up to a mile deep, surrounded by high granite summits such as Half Dome and El Capitan, and densely forested with pines...
, CA (VI 5.9 A4), with Steve RoperSteve RoperSteve Roper is a noted climber and historian of the Sierra Nevada in the United States. He along with Allen Steck are the founding editors of the Sierra Club journal Ascent.Roper is the winner of the Sierra Club's Francis P...
and Chuck PrattChuck PrattCharles Marshall Pratt was an American rock climber from California, best known for big wall climbing first ascents in Yosemite Valley...
.
See also
- Jackson, R. G. & Ortenburger, L. N. (1996). "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" (3rd Ed.), The Mountaineers
- Ament, Pat (2002). "Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America", Wilderness Press
- Piana, Paul (1983). "Touch the Sky: The Needles in the Black Hills of South Dakota", AAC Press
- Bob Kamps Memorial Website
- John Gill's Website
- Tom Higgin's Website