Altitude Everest Expedition 2007
Encyclopedia
The 2007 Altitude Everest Expedition, led by the American climber Conrad Anker
, arrived at Base Camp below the north face of Everest in May 2007 and retraced the last journey of British climber George Mallory
. On 8 June 1924, Mallory, along with his climbing partner Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine, set out for the summit of Everest but disappeared from view short of the summit. The mystery of whether they could have been the first climbers to reach the world's highest point has never been resolved. Anker and his colleagues investigated what happened to them, testing out the durability of their clothing and equipment to establish whether Mallory and Irvine could have reached the summit in the conditions they faced in 1924.
. Anker and Houlding were joined by Kevin Thaw
, Ken Sauls and Jimmy Chin
, and a back-up team that included technical and medical support. Overseeing the expedition was Russell Brice
.
Anker and Houlding successfully free-climbed the Second Step, having first removed the Chinese ladder (which was later replaced). Houlding rated the climb at 5.9, just within Mallory's estimated capabilities. However, Anker fell off the Step on his first attempt, raising the question if a 5.12-grade climber has trouble with it, how well can a 5.9 climber be expected to do. Eight years earlier Anker had climbed the Second Step as part of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition
but had used one point of aid by stepping on a rung of the ladder. At that time he had rated the climb at 5.10 and probably beyond Mallory; after the June 2007 climb he changed his view and said that "Mallory and Irvine could have climbed it". The climbing community still remains split on the subject of whether Mallory was capable of having climbed the Second Step.
Conrad Anker
Conrad Anker is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author famous for his challenging ascents in the high Himalaya and Antarctica. He is a member of The North Face climbing team and also works closely with Timex Expedition as brand ambassador...
, arrived at Base Camp below the north face of Everest in May 2007 and retraced the last journey of British climber George Mallory
George Mallory
George Herbert Leigh Mallory was an English mountaineer who took part in the first three British expeditions to Mount Everest in the early 1920s....
. On 8 June 1924, Mallory, along with his climbing partner Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine, set out for the summit of Everest but disappeared from view short of the summit. The mystery of whether they could have been the first climbers to reach the world's highest point has never been resolved. Anker and his colleagues investigated what happened to them, testing out the durability of their clothing and equipment to establish whether Mallory and Irvine could have reached the summit in the conditions they faced in 1924.
The expedition team
Conrad Anker discovered George Mallory’s body lying on the mountain in 1999, 75 years after he had disappeared into the clouds near the summit. Accompanying Anker to retrace Mallory’s steps was British climber Leo HouldingLeo Houlding
Leo Houlding is a British rock climber who has climbed the Angel of the North along with more traditional ascents such as some of El Capitan's toughest lines....
. Anker and Houlding were joined by Kevin Thaw
Kevin Thaw
Kevin Thaw British rock climber and mountaineer.Thaw has climbed notable routes and added many first ascents since commencing in Britain’s Peak District then relocating to California and journeying extensively through: Yosemite, El Capitan, Argentine Patagonia, the Himalaya, Alaska, Canadian...
, Ken Sauls and Jimmy Chin
Jimmy Chin
Jimmy Chin was born and raised in Mankato, Minnesota and is an accomplished climber, mountaineer, skier and photographer. He has organized and participated in numerous climbing, ski-mountaineering and exploratory expeditions to China, Pakistan, Nepal, Tanzania, Chad, Mali, South Africa and...
, and a back-up team that included technical and medical support. Overseeing the expedition was Russell Brice
Russell Brice
Russell Reginald Brice is a New Zealand mountaineer. He is also the owner/manager of Himalayan Experience Ltd., a climbing expedition company...
.
Anker and Houlding successfully free-climbed the Second Step, having first removed the Chinese ladder (which was later replaced). Houlding rated the climb at 5.9, just within Mallory's estimated capabilities. However, Anker fell off the Step on his first attempt, raising the question if a 5.12-grade climber has trouble with it, how well can a 5.9 climber be expected to do. Eight years earlier Anker had climbed the Second Step as part of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition
Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition
The goal of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition of 1999 was to discover evidence of whether George Mallory and Andrew Irvine had been the first to summit Mt. Everest in their ill-fated attempt of 8–9 June 1924...
but had used one point of aid by stepping on a rung of the ladder. At that time he had rated the climb at 5.10 and probably beyond Mallory; after the June 2007 climb he changed his view and said that "Mallory and Irvine could have climbed it". The climbing community still remains split on the subject of whether Mallory was capable of having climbed the Second Step.
External links
- Expedition's YouTube website
- Altitude Everest Expedition 2007