Thai-style dresses
Encyclopedia
The formal Thai national costume, known in Thai
Thai language
Thai , also known as Central Thai and Siamese, is the national and official language of Thailand and the native language of the Thai people, Thailand's dominant ethnic group. Thai is a member of the Tai group of the Tai–Kadai language family. Historical linguists have been unable to definitively...

 as , includes several sets of clothing designed for use as national costume
National costume
Folk costume expresses an identity through costume which usually to a geographic area or a period of time in history, but can also indicate social, marital and/or religious status...

 in formal occasions. Although described and intended for use as national costume, they are of relatively modern origins, having been conceived in the second half of the twentieth century.

Men's costume

The men's national costume is known as suea phraratchathan . It was designed to serve as a national costume by royal tailors Chupat Chuto, Phichai Watsanasong and Sompop Louilarpprasert for King Bhumibol Adulyadej
Bhumibol Adulyadej
Bhumibol Adulyadej is the current King of Thailand. He is known as Rama IX...

 in 1979, and was subsequently given to General Prem Tinsulanonda
Prem Tinsulanonda
General Prem Tinsulanonda is a retired Thai military officer who served as Prime Minister of Thailand from March 3, 1980 to August 4, 1988. He now serves as the Head of the Privy Council of the King of Thailand, Bhumibol Adulyadej....

, then the Minister of Defence, to promote and wear in public. Prem has remained the shirt's most recognised wearer, although it has been adopted by many, especially politicians and civil officials, on special occasions. Many will adopt the shirt for ceremonies such as their own weddings.

The shirt shares the appearance of the raj pattern
Raj pattern
Raj pattern refers either to a Thai men's costume consisting of a white Nehru-style jacket with five buttons, a chong kraben, knee-length socks and dress shoes, or to the specific form of the jacket itself...

jacket, which itself is an older widely adopted (in Thailand) version of the Nehru jacket
Nehru jacket
The Nehru jacket is a hip-length tailored coat for men or women, created in India in the 1940s. The jacket essentially blends the collar of the achkan, historically the royal court dress of Indian nobles, with the Western suit jacket...

. The phraratchathan is specified as having a standing (Mandarin
Mandarin collar
A mandarin collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. Mandarin collars start at the neckline and typically rise vertically two to five centimeters. The style originated from Western interpretation of dresses worn by Mandarins in Imperial China.The length along a...

) collar 3.5 to 4 centimetres in height, being slightly tapered at the sides, hem
Hem
To hem a piece of cloth is to sew a cut edge in such a way as to prevent unraveling of the fabric.There are many different styles of hems of varying complexities. The most common hem...

med at the edges of the collar, placket
Placket
A placket is an opening in the upper part of trousers or skirts, or at the neck or sleeve of a garment. Plackets are almost always used to allow clothing to be put on or removed easily, but are sometimes used purely as a design element...

 and sleeves, with five round flat buttons covered with a material identical or similar to that of the shirt. It should have two outer pockets at the front, at a level slightly higher than the lowermost button, may have a left-sided breast pocket, and may either be vented or not. The shirt comes in three varieties: short-sleeved, long-sleeved, and long-sleeved with a sash
Sash
A sash is a cloth belt used to hold a robe together, and is usually tied about the waist. The Japanese equivalent of a sash, obi, serves to hold a kimono or yukata together. Decorative sashes may pass from the shoulder to the hip rather than around the waist...

, which range from the least to most formal, respectively. The long-sleeved versions should have 4 to 5 centimetres-wide cuff
Cuff
A cuff is an extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms. In US usage the word may also refer to the end of the leg of a pair of trousers...

s of the same material as the shirt, and the sash, when used, should be knotted at the left side. The shirt is worn with trousers as would be with a suit jacket.

Women's costume

When Queen Sirikit
Sirikit
Somdet Phra Nang Chao Sirikit Phra Borommarachininat , is the queen consort of Bhumibol Adulyadej, King of Thailand. She is the second Queen Regent of Thailand...

 accompanied the king in state visit
State visit
A state visit is a formal visit by a foreign head of state to another nation, at the invitation of that nation's head of state. State visits are the highest form of diplomatic contact between two nations, and are marked by ceremonial pomp and diplomatic protocol. In parliamentary democracies, heads...

s to Europe and the United States in 1960, she noted that there was a need for a modern national costume suitable for formal wear. The queen had research conducted into historical records of royal dresses, and eight official designs were developed and promoted by the queen and her aides. They are named the Ruean Ton, Chit Lada, Amarin, Borom Phiman, Chakkri, Dusit, Chakkraphat and Siwalai Thai dresses. Since then, these dresses have come into regular use by the public as well.

Thai Chakkri

Thai Chakkri is a formal and elegant wear, normally produced using "Yok" weaving technique (Yok creates additional thickness within the fabric without adding supplementary threads. Often a touch of gold or silver-colored threads are added, making the fabric produced this way particularly more expensive) The costume is finished with "pha sin", a full length wrap-around skirt with two pleated folds in the front called "na nang".

Thai Boromphiman

Thai Boromphiman, also a formal evening attire, comprises a long sleeved blouse which is either buttoned at the front or the back. The blouse is tucked beneath pha sin with its front pleats (na nang). The fabric is brocaded to create a highly luxurious look and feel
Look and feel
In software design, look and feel is a term used in respect of a graphical user interface and comprises aspects of its design, including elements such as colors, shapes, layout, and typefaces , as well as the behavior of dynamic elements such as buttons, boxes, and menus...

. The collar of the blouse is round-necked. The skirt length runs about the ankle. The skirt and blouse are sewn together like a one piece dress of which style is suitable for a tall and slender wearer. It can be worn in either formal or semi-formal
Semi-formal
In Western clothing semi-formal is a grouping of dress codes, indicating the sort of clothes worn to events with a level of protocol between informal and formal...

 events such as the League Ceremony or royal functions. Royal decorations are also worn.

Thai Siwalai

Thai Siwalai, a formal evening costume, is quite similar to Thai Boromphiman, but has an over-shoulder shawl. It is worn for royal ceremonies or a formal functions.

Thai Chakkraphat

Thai Chakkraphat is a Thai dress with a shawl like Thai Chakkri. However, it is more conservative and considered more official. The upper part has a pleated shawl cover , a thicker shawl with full embroidery on the upper shawl. It can be worn for royal or national ceremonies.

Thai Amarin

Thai Amarin is evening attire, made of brocaded fabric. With this style, the  person does not have to wear a belt. The blouse can be wide and round-necked. The sleeve length sits just below the elbow. The beauty of this dress is its textile and accessories. It can be use for an evening dinner or at the Royal Birthday Procession. The royal decorations are worn.

Thai Chitlada

Thai Chitlada, with its brocaded band at the hem of the pha sin, is a daytime ceremonial dress
Ceremonial dress
Ceremonial dress is the clothing worn for very special occasions, such as coronations, graduations, parades, religious rites, and trials. In the hierarchy of dress codes , ceremonial dress is the most formal and offers almost no room for personal expression...

. It can be worn with a long sleeved silk blouse, with the front opening attached with five ornamental silver or gold buttons. The pha sin is a casual wraparound. It can be worn to a ceremony that is a not too informal such as welcoming the official royal guests at the airport. Wearers do not need to wear royal decorations but the color and style should be appropriate.

Thai Ruean Ton

Thai Ruean Ton is the most casual clothing of all outfits. It comprises a horizontally or vertically striped silk or plain-coloured pha sin with a patterned band at the hem, sometimes folded to one side, The collarless blouse that goes with it is separated from the ankle-length skirt. The sleeves are elbow length, and the blouse has a front opening. It is suitable for casual and non-official functions such as Kathin Ton, the religious ceremony of the conferring of royal offerings to monks.

Thai Jakgree Style

This is a two piece style with a beaded Yokonnang (folded front) that also has beading on the bottom.
The top is a one piece wrap-around and over the left shoulder with the end left long to trail.
Is often used as evening wear or for formal ceremonies.
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