Speed climbing
Encyclopedia
Speed Climbing is climbing
in which speed is the ultimate goal. (Although it is not to be confused with competitive speed climbing on artificial walls which is one of the disciplines governed by IFSC) Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles. In pure speed climbing, time is everything but it is also common to record speed accents while observing a particular climbing style or ethic. For example, there are many speed records in which the climb was done according to free climbing
ethics. In popular culture speed climbing may be best known for a viral video
featuring Dan Osman
climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach
route (5.7, 400+ feet) in 4 min 25 sec. This clip was originally featured in the movie Masters of Stone IV.
, simul climbing
, aiding
, and at times sections of roped soloing
. Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of rope soloing
, aiding
, and free soloing. Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing is not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing. However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style.
. This leads to free soloing as rapidly as possible. While strictly speaking this qualifies as full speed climbing or a type of style climbing it is different enough to be recognized as its own category of speed climbing.
has written "I will be the first to say that climbing is silly. To make rules about it is just piling ridiculous on top of silly."
There are no sanctioned speed climbing competitions on significant rock features. Nearly all climbing goals and records are self-designed, self-timed, self-officiated, few are well documented, and many are disputed.
The collection that follows abide by these loose standards.
Time formate either hrs:min or hrs:min:sec.
, El Capitan
Regular Northwest Route, Half Dome
Snake Dike, Half Dome
Joshua Tree National Park
Jackson Falls, Illinois
Third Flatiron
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
in which speed is the ultimate goal. (Although it is not to be confused with competitive speed climbing on artificial walls which is one of the disciplines governed by IFSC) Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles. In pure speed climbing, time is everything but it is also common to record speed accents while observing a particular climbing style or ethic. For example, there are many speed records in which the climb was done according to free climbing
Free climbing
Free climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber uses only hands, feet and other parts of the body to ascend, employing ropes and forms of climbing protection to prevent falls only....
ethics. In popular culture speed climbing may be best known for a viral video
Viral video
A viral video is one that becomes popular through the process of Internet sharing, typically through video sharing websites, social media and email...
featuring Dan Osman
Dan Osman
Daniel Eugene Osman was an American extreme sport practitioner, known for the dangerous sports of "free-soloing" ; and "rope jumping" , for which his record was over 1000 feet/300 meters...
climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach
Bear's Reach (Lover's Leap)
The Bear's Reach is a technical rock climbing route on Lover's Leap near Lake Tahoe, CA. Considered a classic for its grade, it includes both face and crack climbing. The route is named for the crux of the second pitch, a long reach between two large holds. The route is best known in popular...
route (5.7, 400+ feet) in 4 min 25 sec. This clip was originally featured in the movie Masters of Stone IV.
Pure Speed Climbing
Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger. When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular free climbingFree climbing
Free climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber uses only hands, feet and other parts of the body to ascend, employing ropes and forms of climbing protection to prevent falls only....
, simul climbing
Simul climbing
Simul climbing or climbing with a running belay is a climbing method or style where both climbers, climb at the same time while tied into the rope. Protection is placed by a pseudo-leader and the second removes the pieces of gear. The length of rope used during simul climbing varies but is often...
, aiding
Aid climbing
Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress....
, and at times sections of roped soloing
Roped solo climbing
Roped solo climbing or rope soloing is a way to climb with relative safety without a climbing partner.- Variations :*Roped solo free climbing refers to top roping on a fixed rope or to a traditional rope solo free climb....
. Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of rope soloing
Roped solo climbing
Roped solo climbing or rope soloing is a way to climb with relative safety without a climbing partner.- Variations :*Roped solo free climbing refers to top roping on a fixed rope or to a traditional rope solo free climb....
, aiding
Aid climbing
Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress....
, and free soloing. Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing is not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing. However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style.
Style Climbing
Records can be recorded while climbing in a particular style. Each of the methods ultimately handicap the rate of progress with the exception of free soloing.Free Soloing
The simplest way to increase the speed of climbing is to shed all safety precautions such as belaying and placing protectionProtection (climbing)
To make climbing as safe as possible, most climbers use protection, a term used to describe the equipment used to prevent injury to themselves and others.-Types of climbing:...
. This leads to free soloing as rapidly as possible. While strictly speaking this qualifies as full speed climbing or a type of style climbing it is different enough to be recognized as its own category of speed climbing.
Records
Most speed climbing records lack the standards normally associated with an objectively "records". Hans FlorineHans Florine
Hans Florine is an American rock climber, who together with Yuji Hirayama previously held the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:37:05; 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds set on October 12, 2008...
has written "I will be the first to say that climbing is silly. To make rules about it is just piling ridiculous on top of silly."
There are no sanctioned speed climbing competitions on significant rock features. Nearly all climbing goals and records are self-designed, self-timed, self-officiated, few are well documented, and many are disputed.
The collection that follows abide by these loose standards.
Time formate either hrs:min or hrs:min:sec.
California
The NoseThe Nose (El Capitan)
The Nose is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big-wall climbing...
, El Capitan
El Capitan
El Capitan is a vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, located on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith extends about from base to summit along its tallest face, and is one of the world's favorite challenges for rock climbers.The formation was...
- 2:43:33 Yuji HirayamaYuji HirayamaYuji Hirayama is a Japanese rock climber, born on February 23, 1969.Yuji is the first Asian climber to win the climbing world cup in 1998, and in 2000 for a second time....
and Hans FlorineHans FlorineHans Florine is an American rock climber, who together with Yuji Hirayama previously held the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:37:05; 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds set on October 12, 2008...
2008. - 12:15 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
- 11:41 Hans FlorineHans FlorineHans Florine is an American rock climber, who together with Yuji Hirayama previously held the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:37:05; 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds set on October 12, 2008...
solo. July 2005. - 11:00 Tommy CaldwellTommy CaldwellTommy Caldwell is an American rock climber. He was previously married to prominent American rock climber Beth Rodden....
2005 (free ascent). - 23:46 Lynn HillLynn HillLynn Hill is a United States rock climber, known as a top sport climber of the 1980s and famous for making the first free ascent of the Nose Route on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley....
1994 (free ascent female).
Regular Northwest Route, Half Dome
Half Dome
Half Dome is a granite dome in Yosemite National Park, located in northeastern Mariposa County, California, at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley — possibly Yosemite's most familiar rock formation. The granite crest rises more than above the valley floor....
- 1:53:25 Jim Herson and Hans FlorineHans FlorineHans Florine is an American rock climber, who together with Yuji Hirayama previously held the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:37:05; 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds set on October 12, 2008...
1999. - 5:25 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
- 3:58 Hans FlorineHans FlorineHans Florine is an American rock climber, who together with Yuji Hirayama previously held the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:37:05; 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds set on October 12, 2008...
solo 1999 (Full day also included El Cap).
Snake Dike, Half Dome
Half Dome
Half Dome is a granite dome in Yosemite National Park, located in northeastern Mariposa County, California, at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley — possibly Yosemite's most familiar rock formation. The granite crest rises more than above the valley floor....
- 3:00 Dean PotterDean PotterDean Potter is an American free climber, alpinist, BASE jumper, BASEliner, and highliner. He is noted for hard first ascents, free solo ascents, speed ascents, and enchainments in Yosemite and Patagonia....
1998 (car to car).
Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree National Park is located in southeastern California. Declared a U.S. National Park in 1994 when the U.S. Congress passed the California Desert Protection Act , it had previously been a U.S. National Monument since 1936. It is named for the Joshua tree forests native to the park...
- 280 Routes in a day Michael ReardonMichael Reardon (climber)Michael Reardon was a professional American Free Solo Climber, filmmaker, motivational speaker and writer. Reardon perished after being swept to sea by a rogue wave, shortly after climbing a sea cliff in County Kerry, Ireland.-General information:...
solo 2004.
Jackson Falls, Illinois
- 10 climbs 100 feet tall 45 minutes free solo Dennis George
- 600 feet car to summit with a steep approach of half mile Idyllwild, CA
- 10,000 feet in 24 hours Joshua Tree, CA climb for breast cancer
Colorado
Bastille CrackEldorado Canyon State Park
Eldorado Canyon State Park is part of the Colorado State Park system. It is located in Boulder County near the city of Boulder. The park consists of two areas, the Inner Canyon and Crescent Meadows . The park encompasses with a variety of recreation opportunities available...
- 00:05:33 Mic Fairchild solo 1998.
Third Flatiron
Flatirons
The Flatirons are rock formations near Boulder, Colorado consisting of flatirons. There are five large, numbered Flatirons ranging from north to south along the east slope of Green Mountain, and the term "The Flatirons" sometimes refers to these five alone...
- 36:27 Bill BriggsBill BriggsBill Briggs is the director of the Great American Ski School at Snow King Mountain in Jackson, Wyoming in the United States. Briggs, born in Maine, is notable as the first to ski the Grand Teton on June 15, 1971 and as a result is said to be the father of extreme skiing in North America.His route...
solo 1989 (car to car).
Nevada
EpinephrineRed Rock Canyon National Conservation Area
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in Nevada is an area managed by the Bureau of Land Management as part of its National Landscape Conservation System, and protected as a National Conservation Area. It is located about west of Las Vegas, and easily seen from the Las Vegas Strip...
- 1:15 Jash Stwart solo 2002.
New York
The Gunks- 50 Routes 13:30 Peter Darmi solo 2004.
- 46 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2004.
- 51 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2006