Soul Surfer
Encyclopedia
Soul Surfer is a term coined in the 1960s, used to describe a surfer
who surfs for the sheer pleasure of surfing. Although they may still enter in competitions, winning is not the soul surfer's main motive, since they scorn the commercialization of surfing. The term denotes a spirituality
of surfing. As Brad Melekian put it in a 2005 article in Surfer
magazine:
The term originates from a 1963 surf instrumental of the same name.
surf guitarist Johnny Fortune. The song was intended to reference the then-current soul music
genre. The term "soul surfing" gained popularity in the late '60s, with the phrase most used in the mid- and late-'70s. In 1969 theologian Tom Blake penned an article entitled "Voice of the Wave", which examined the religious elements of surfing. By the early 70s, curious surfers began to experiment with various Eastern philosophies, such as yoga
and meditation.
The concept of the soul surfer was the main focus for the 1987 film North Shore
, where the lead character fails to win a major surf competition because someone cheated, yet, unfazed, shrugs his shoulders and remarks that “it doesn’t matter to a soul surfer”. This was also a concept expounded in the 1994 film The Endless Summer II
, a documentary which sees two talented surfers go around the world to emulate the original film, The Endless Summer
. More recently, the phrase was used as the title of a book about Bethany Hamilton
, a young female surfer who continued to surf after her arm was bitten off by a tiger shark
. The book was made into a 2011 feature film, also called Soul Surfer
.
Soul surfing has been described as “the highest level, the pinnacle of surfing spirituality equivalent to Nirvana
, Satori
, and total enlightenment
, but is rarely attained. The Soul Surfer expresses himself through his unity with the breaking wave. He borrows the wave's spirit for a short while and uses his body and equipment to translate the essence
of the wave's spirit into Art”.
Surfing
Surfing' is a surface water sport in which the surfer rides a surfboard on the crest and face of a wave which is carrying the surfer towards the shore...
who surfs for the sheer pleasure of surfing. Although they may still enter in competitions, winning is not the soul surfer's main motive, since they scorn the commercialization of surfing. The term denotes a spirituality
Spirituality
Spirituality can refer to an ultimate or an alleged immaterial reality; an inner path enabling a person to discover the essence of his/her being; or the “deepest values and meanings by which people live.” Spiritual practices, including meditation, prayer and contemplation, are intended to develop...
of surfing. As Brad Melekian put it in a 2005 article in Surfer
Surfer (magazine)
Surfer magazine is a monthly surfing culture magazine published in San Clemente, California.The magazine was founded by John Severson in 1959 as a program to accompany his yearly surf films...
magazine:
“...to pursue surfing not just as an athletic endeavor or as a sunny day diversion, but to try to glean whatever lessons you can from the practice. It means being aware of your surroundings, and respectful of the people and places that you interact with. It means being patient, mindful, kind, compassionate, understanding, active, thoughtful, faithful, hopeful, gracious, disciplined and…good.”
The term originates from a 1963 surf instrumental of the same name.
History
The first published mention of the term was in the 1963 surf guitar instrumental "Soul Surfer", by the Southern CaliforniaSouthern California
Southern California is a megaregion, or megapolitan area, in the southern area of the U.S. state of California. Large urban areas include Greater Los Angeles and Greater San Diego. The urban area stretches along the coast from Ventura through the Southland and Inland Empire to San Diego...
surf guitarist Johnny Fortune. The song was intended to reference the then-current soul music
Soul music
Soul music is a music genre originating in the United States combining elements of gospel music and rhythm and blues. According to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, soul is "music that arose out of the black experience in America through the transmutation of gospel and rhythm & blues into a form of...
genre. The term "soul surfing" gained popularity in the late '60s, with the phrase most used in the mid- and late-'70s. In 1969 theologian Tom Blake penned an article entitled "Voice of the Wave", which examined the religious elements of surfing. By the early 70s, curious surfers began to experiment with various Eastern philosophies, such as yoga
Yoga
Yoga is a physical, mental, and spiritual discipline, originating in ancient India. The goal of yoga, or of the person practicing yoga, is the attainment of a state of perfect spiritual insight and tranquility while meditating on Supersoul...
and meditation.
The concept of the soul surfer was the main focus for the 1987 film North Shore
North Shore (film)
North Shore is a 1987 film about Rick Kane , a young fictional surfer from a wave tank in Arizona, who heads to surf the season on the North Shore of Oahu and see if he has the skills to cut it as a pro surfer...
, where the lead character fails to win a major surf competition because someone cheated, yet, unfazed, shrugs his shoulders and remarks that “it doesn’t matter to a soul surfer”. This was also a concept expounded in the 1994 film The Endless Summer II
The Endless Summer II
The Endless Summer II is a 1994 film directed by Bruce Brown and is a sequel to his 1966 film The Endless Summer. In The Endless Summer II, surfers Pat O'Connell and Robert "Wingnut" Weaver retrace the steps of Mike Hynson and Robert August. It shows the growth and evolution of the surfing scene...
, a documentary which sees two talented surfers go around the world to emulate the original film, The Endless Summer
The Endless Summer
The Endless Summer is a 1966 film in the surf movie genre.Director Bruce Brown follows two surfers, Mike Hynson and Robert August, on a surf trip around the world. Despite the balmy climate of their native California, cold ocean currents make local beaches inhospitable during the winter...
. More recently, the phrase was used as the title of a book about Bethany Hamilton
Bethany Hamilton
Bethany Meilani Hamilton is an American professional surfer. She is known for surviving a shark attack in which she lost her left arm, and for overcoming the injury to ultimately return to professional surfing. She wrote about her experience in the 2004 autobiography Soul Surfer: A True Story of...
, a young female surfer who continued to surf after her arm was bitten off by a tiger shark
Tiger shark
The tiger sharks, Galeocerdo cuvier, is a species of requiem shark and the only member of the genus Galeocerdo. Commonly known as sea tigers, tiger sharks are relatively large macropredators, capable of attaining a length of over . It is found in many tropical and temperate waters, and is...
. The book was made into a 2011 feature film, also called Soul Surfer
Soul Surfer (film)
Soul Surfer is a 2011 American drama film about the life of surfer Bethany Hamilton. At the age of thirteen, Hamilton lost her arm to a shark attack. The film details the events surrounding this attack and her struggle during the aftermath...
.
Soul surfing has been described as “the highest level, the pinnacle of surfing spirituality equivalent to Nirvana
Nirvana
Nirvāṇa ; ) is a central concept in Indian religions. In sramanic thought, it is the state of being free from suffering. In Hindu philosophy, it is the union with the Supreme being through moksha...
, Satori
Satori
is a Japanese Buddhist term for enlightenment that literally means "understanding". In the Zen Buddhist tradition, satori refers to a flash of sudden awareness, or individual enlightenment, and is considered a "first step" or embarkation toward nirvana....
, and total enlightenment
Buddhahood
In Buddhism, buddhahood is the state of perfect enlightenment attained by a buddha .In Buddhism, the term buddha usually refers to one who has become enlightened...
, but is rarely attained. The Soul Surfer expresses himself through his unity with the breaking wave. He borrows the wave's spirit for a short while and uses his body and equipment to translate the essence
Essence
In philosophy, essence is the attribute or set of attributes that make an object or substance what it fundamentally is, and which it has by necessity, and without which it loses its identity. Essence is contrasted with accident: a property that the object or substance has contingently, without...
of the wave's spirit into Art”.