Siula Grande
Encyclopedia
Siula Grande is a mountain
in the Cordillera Huayhuash
, in the Peru
vian Andes
. It is 6344 m high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6260 m high.
and Simon Yates
. Their ascent was made famous by Simpson's book Touching the Void
, which describes the ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain by him and Simon Yates
. The book was made into a film of the same title
in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by an Austrian team) for their descent, which was made almost impossible by horrible weather. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled back down the face. As of 2009 the south face has not been climbed.
about 6260 metre high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6000 metre col
. Mountaineers considered the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so conquered by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition. Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in 2007 May.
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...
in the Cordillera Huayhuash
Cordillera Huayhuash
The Cordillera Huayhuash is a mountain range in the Andes of Peru. It is located in the boundaries of the Ancash Region, Lima Region, y Huanuco Region...
, in the Peru
Peru
Peru , officially the Republic of Peru , is a country in western South America. It is bordered on the north by Ecuador and Colombia, on the east by Brazil, on the southeast by Bolivia, on the south by Chile, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean....
vian Andes
Andes
The Andes is the world's longest continental mountain range. It is a continual range of highlands along the western coast of South America. This range is about long, about to wide , and of an average height of about .Along its length, the Andes is split into several ranges, which are separated...
. It is 6344 m high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6260 m high.
Touching the Void ascent
In 1985 Siula Grande was climbed by Joe SimpsonJoe Simpson (mountaineer)
Joe Simpson is an English mountaineer, author and motivational speaker. He is best known for his book Touching the Void and the 2003 film adaptation of his book.-Early life:...
and Simon Yates
Simon Yates (mountaineer)
Simon Yates is an English mountaineer best known through the book Touching the Void by Joe Simpson, and the film of the same name. Touching the Void recounts the 1985 ascent by Yates and Simpson of the West Face of Siula Grande in the Cordillera Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes, Simpson's accident...
. Their ascent was made famous by Simpson's book Touching the Void
Touching the Void
Touching the Void is a 1988 book by Joe Simpson, recounting his and Simon Yates's disastrous and nearly fatal climb of the 6,344-metre Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes in 1985....
, which describes the ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain by him and Simon Yates
Simon Yates (mountaineer)
Simon Yates is an English mountaineer best known through the book Touching the Void by Joe Simpson, and the film of the same name. Touching the Void recounts the 1985 ascent by Yates and Simpson of the West Face of Siula Grande in the Cordillera Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes, Simpson's accident...
. The book was made into a film of the same title
Touching the Void (film)
Touching the Void is a 2003 documentary film based on the book of the same name by Joe Simpson about Simpson's and Simon Yates' disastrous and near fatal attempt to climb the 6,344 metre Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes in 1985.-Outline:...
in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by an Austrian team) for their descent, which was made almost impossible by horrible weather. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled back down the face. As of 2009 the south face has not been climbed.
First ascents list
This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made.- 1936 July 28 North Ridge by Arnold Awerzger and Erwin Schneider from Austria.
- 1966 June 21 fourth ascent by Obster, Schulz and M. Sturm via the North ridge en route to Siula Chico
- 1985 West Face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates
- 1999 Peru West Face Touching The Void (new route) by Carlos Buhler. (Buhler's route followed the Yates/Simpson route for much of the ascent, and Buhler christened it "Avoiding The Touch")
- 2001 July 17 Noches de "Juerga", west face
- 2002 July 3 Northeast Face, Los Rapidos by Slovenes Marjan Kovač and Pavle KozjekPavle KozjekPavle Kozjek was a Slovenian mountaineering pioneer and a photographer.Kozjek was born in Setnica near Polhov Gradec, SR Slovenia, Yugoslavia. He was a member of the Ljubljana-Matica Mountaineering Club. In 1997, he was the first Slovene climber to ascend Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen...
- 2002 August Mammut Tracks, west face, by Rogier van Rijn and Eva Oomen
Siula Chico
Siula Chico is a subpeakTopographic prominence
In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height, shoulder drop , or prime factor , categorizes the height of the mountain's or hill's summit by the elevation between it and the lowest contour line encircling it and no higher summit...
about 6260 metre high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6000 metre col
Mountain pass
A mountain pass is a route through a mountain range or over a ridge. If following the lowest possible route, a pass is locally the highest point on that route...
. Mountaineers considered the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so conquered by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition. Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in 2007 May.