Realization (climb)
Encyclopedia
Realization, or Biographie, is a sport climbing
route on a crag
on the southern face of the 2016-metre (6614-foot) Montagne de Céüse near Gap
and Céüse
, France
.
While not having been graded
by its first ascensionist
Chris Sharma
, it is generally considered to be 9a+ (French grade) or 5.15a (Yosemite Decimal System
). Among the routes that have been repeated by anyone else except the author, Realization is the first ascent to be recognized with a 5.15 rating formally making it the most difficult as of 2001. However, in 1996 Fred Rouhling
proposed even harder grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira. Since 2001 there have been ascents of other routes which are recognized and rated to be more difficult.
, while in the U.S. they are typically named by the first ascensionist. In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille
bolted the whole "pitch" and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year (The anchor chains are now no longer present where the first part of the route used to end). In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way.
Many Americans consider "Biographie" to be the first half Petit climbed in 1996 and Realization to be the extension, whereas other climbers such as Adam Ondra
and Sylvain Millet refer to the entire route as Biographie.
Sharma admitted in an interview to kairn.com in April 2010 that the importance of a First Ascent, and the investment in that route before its FA, meant that not anyone could just show up, climb a route (and rename it) without asking anyone else. He was referring to his route "First Round, First Minute" (FRFM, then a project) in Catalunya and, in an interview to planetmountain.com on 20 April 2011 (the day after he sent FRFM), Sharma actually used the name "Biographie".
(July 27, 2008), and Enzo Oddo (August 2010)
Sport climbing
Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...
route on a crag
Cliff
In geography and geology, a cliff is a significant vertical, or near vertical, rock exposure. Cliffs are formed as erosion landforms due to the processes of erosion and weathering that produce them. Cliffs are common on coasts, in mountainous areas, escarpments and along rivers. Cliffs are usually...
on the southern face of the 2016-metre (6614-foot) Montagne de Céüse near Gap
Gap, Hautes-Alpes
Gap is a commune in southeastern France, the capital of the Hautes-Alpes department.-Geography:An Alpine crossroads at the intersection of D994 and Route nationale 85 the Route Napoléon, Gap lies above sea level along the right bank of the Luye River...
and Céüse
Ceüse
Céüse is a hamlet in the Hautes-Alpes département of France, part of the commune of Manteyer. The nearby Montagne de Céüse is home to one of France's most important venues for sport climbing....
, France
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
.
While not having been graded
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
by its first ascensionist
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
Chris Sharma
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber.-History:Chris Omprakash Sharma was raised in Santa Cruz, California, son of Gita Jahn and Bob Sharma. He started rock climbing when he was 12 at the Pacific Edge climbing gym...
, it is generally considered to be 9a+ (French grade) or 5.15a (Yosemite Decimal System
Yosemite Decimal System
The Yosemite Decimal System is a three-part system used for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs. It is primarily used by mountaineers in the United States and Canada. The Class 5 portion of the Class scale is primarily a rock climbing classification system. Originally the system was...
). Among the routes that have been repeated by anyone else except the author, Realization is the first ascent to be recognized with a 5.15 rating formally making it the most difficult as of 2001. However, in 1996 Fred Rouhling
Fred Rouhling
Fred Rouhling is a French rock climber, famed for his 1995 proposal of the grade 9b/5.15b for his unrepeated climb Akira...
proposed even harder grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira. Since 2001 there have been ascents of other routes which are recognized and rated to be more difficult.
Name dispute
The name of the route is disputed: routes in France are named by the person who first bolted the routeBolt (climbing)
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin....
, while in the U.S. they are typically named by the first ascensionist. In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille
Jean-Christophe Lafaille
Jean-Christophe Lafaille was a French mountaineer noted for a number of difficult ascents in the Alps and Himalaya, and for what has been described as "perhaps the finest self-rescue ever performed in the Himalaya", when he was forced to descend the mile-high south face of Annapurna alone with a...
bolted the whole "pitch" and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year (The anchor chains are now no longer present where the first part of the route used to end). In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way.
Many Americans consider "Biographie" to be the first half Petit climbed in 1996 and Realization to be the extension, whereas other climbers such as Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra is a Czech rock climber. He also participates in lead climbing and bouldering competitions.-Biography:...
and Sylvain Millet refer to the entire route as Biographie.
Sharma admitted in an interview to kairn.com in April 2010 that the importance of a First Ascent, and the investment in that route before its FA, meant that not anyone could just show up, climb a route (and rename it) without asking anyone else. He was referring to his route "First Round, First Minute" (FRFM, then a project) in Catalunya and, in an interview to planetmountain.com on 20 April 2011 (the day after he sent FRFM), Sharma actually used the name "Biographie".
Subsequent ascents
Realization has been repeated by Sylvain Millet (May 24, 2004), Patxi Usobiaga (July 29, 2004), Dave Graham (July 30, 2007), Ethan Pringle (September 2, 2007), Ramón Julián PuigblanqueRamón Julián Puigblanque
Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a Spanish rock climber. He was born on 9 November 1981...
(July 27, 2008), and Enzo Oddo (August 2010)