Mugs Stump
Encyclopedia
Mugs Stump was a noted American
rock climber and mountaineer
, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range
and the Canadian Rockies
. He died in a serac collapse on Mount McKinley
on May 21, 1992 while guiding clients including Nelson Max.
He is most noted for the first ascent of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson
with Jim Logan, and for three routes in the Alaska Range
, the East Face of The Moose's Tooth
, the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter
, and a one-day solo of Denali's
Cassin Ridge.
Stump along with his geologist brother contributed to field safety for the United States Antarctic Program
scientists and other working on the continent for the National Science Foundation
.
The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award for aspiring alpine climbers is named in his honor.
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
rock climber and mountaineer
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...
, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range
Alaska Range
The Alaska Range is a relatively narrow, 650-km-long mountain range in the southcentral region of the U.S. state of Alaska, from Lake Clark at its southwest end to the White River in Canada's Yukon Territory in the southeast...
and the Canadian Rockies
Canadian Rockies
The Canadian Rockies comprise the Canadian segment of the North American Rocky Mountains range. They are the eastern part of the Canadian Cordillera, extending from the Interior Plains of Alberta to the Rocky Mountain Trench of British Columbia. The southern end borders Idaho and Montana of the USA...
. He died in a serac collapse on Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska, United States is the highest mountain peak in North America and the United States, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve.- Geology and features :Mount McKinley is a granitic pluton...
on May 21, 1992 while guiding clients including Nelson Max.
He is most noted for the first ascent of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson
Mount Robson
Mount Robson is the most prominent mountain in North America's Rocky Mountain range; it is also the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain is located entirely within Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia, and is part of the Rainbow Range. It is commonly thought to be the...
with Jim Logan, and for three routes in the Alaska Range
Alaska Range
The Alaska Range is a relatively narrow, 650-km-long mountain range in the southcentral region of the U.S. state of Alaska, from Lake Clark at its southwest end to the White River in Canada's Yukon Territory in the southeast...
, the East Face of The Moose's Tooth
The Moose's Tooth
The Moose's Tooth is a rock peak on the east side of the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles southeast of Mount McKinley. Despite its relatively low elevation, it is a difficult climb...
, the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter
Mount Hunter (Alaska)
Mount Hunter, or Begguya, is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. It is approximately 8 miles south of Mount McKinley, or Denali, the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child in the Dena'ina language...
, and a one-day solo of Denali's
Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska, United States is the highest mountain peak in North America and the United States, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve.- Geology and features :Mount McKinley is a granitic pluton...
Cassin Ridge.
Stump along with his geologist brother contributed to field safety for the United States Antarctic Program
United States Antarctic Program
United States Antarctic Program is an organization of the United States government which has presence in the continent of Antarctica. It co-ordinates research and the operational support for research in the region...
scientists and other working on the continent for the National Science Foundation
National Science Foundation
The National Science Foundation is a United States government agency that supports fundamental research and education in all the non-medical fields of science and engineering. Its medical counterpart is the National Institutes of Health...
.
The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award for aspiring alpine climbers is named in his honor.
Early life
Mugs was born in Mifflintown, Pennsylvania, where he grew up fishing, hunting, and camping with his father, Warren, and three brothers.First ascents and notable ascents
- 1978 Stump/Logan, Emperor Face, Mount Robson (VI 5.9 A2 2500m) with Jim Logan.
- 1981 Dance of the Woo Li Masters, East Face of The Moose's ToothThe Moose's ToothThe Moose's Tooth is a rock peak on the east side of the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles southeast of Mount McKinley. Despite its relatively low elevation, it is a difficult climb...
, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, USA (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with Jim BridwellJim BridwellJim Bridwell is a noted American rock climber and mountaineer, active since 1965 especially in Yosemite Valley, but also in Patagonia and Alaska. He is noted for pushing the standards of both free-climbing and big-wall climbing, and later alpine climbing... - 1981 Moonflower Buttress, North Buttress of Mount HunterMount Hunter (Alaska)Mount Hunter, or Begguya, is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. It is approximately 8 miles south of Mount McKinley, or Denali, the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child in the Dena'ina language...
, Alaska Range (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6, 6100') with Paul Aubrey(NZ). FA to ridge crest. - 1987 South Face Broken Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range (IV 5.10+ A3). FA with Steve Quinlan
- 1990 Rodeo Queen, Streaked Wall, Zion National ParkZion National ParkZion National Park is located in the Southwestern United States, near Springdale, Utah. A prominent feature of the park is Zion Canyon, which is 15 miles long and up to half a mile deep, cut through the reddish and tan-colored Navajo Sandstone by the North Fork of the Virgin River...
, FA with Conrad AnkerConrad AnkerConrad Anker is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author famous for his challenging ascents in the high Himalaya and Antarctica. He is a member of The North Face climbing team and also works closely with Timex Expedition as brand ambassador... - 1991 Freezer Burn aka Free or Burn (IV 5.11+), East Temple, Zion National ParkZion National ParkZion National Park is located in the Southwestern United States, near Springdale, Utah. A prominent feature of the park is Zion Canyon, which is 15 miles long and up to half a mile deep, cut through the reddish and tan-colored Navajo Sandstone by the North Fork of the Virgin River...
, Utah; FFA with Lynn Wheeler