Lute Jerstad
Encyclopedia
Luther G. Jerstad (1936-1998) was an American mountaineer
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...

 and mountain guide who was a member of the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition. He reached the summit of Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...

 by the South Col route on May 22, 1963 with Barry Bishop
Barry Bishop (mountaineer)
Barry Chapman Bishop was an American mountaineer, scientist, photographer and scholar. With teammates Jim Whittaker, Lute Jerstad, Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein, he was a member of the first American team to summit Mount Everest, on May 22, 1963...

. Three weeks earlier, on May 1, Jim Whittaker
Jim Whittaker
James W. Whittaker, also known as Jim Whittaker is an American mountaineer.As a member of the American Mount Everest Expedition 1963 led by Norman Dyhrenfurth, he was the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest. He summited on May 1, 1963 with the Sherpa Nawang Gombu...

 and Sherpa mountaineer Nawang Gombu
Nawang Gombu
Nawang Gombu was a Sherpa mountaineer.Gombu was born in Minzu, Tibet. He was the youngest Sherpa to reach 26,000 ft. In 1964, he became the first Indian and the third man in the world to summit Nanda Devi...

 had reached the summit, placing an American flag there. Jerstad described seeing the flag as he and Bishop approached the summit, "Just then we came over the last rise and there was that American flag -- and what a fantastic sight! That great big flag whipping in the breeze, and the ends were tattered."

Later that day, they met up with fellow expedition members Tom Hornbein
Tom Hornbein
Thomas "Tom" Hornbein is a well-known American mountaineer.Born in St. Louis, Missouri, Hornbein developed an interest in geology as a teenager. His study of geology led to a fascination with mountains. Eventually he also became interested in medicine; he studied and worked as an anesthesiologist...

 and Willi Unsoeld, who had just completed the first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...

 of Everest by the West Ridge route, and the first traverse of the mountain. The four climbers made a frigid high-altitude bivouac
Bivouac shelter
A bivouac traditionally refers to a military encampment made with tents or improvised shelters, usually without shelter or protection from enemy fire or such a site where a camp may be built. It is also commonly used to describe a variety of improvised camp sites such as those used in scouting and...

 at 28,000 feet without tents, sleeping bags or supplemental oxygen, and survived only because it was not a windy night.

He was raised in Minnesota, and his family moved to the Pacific Northwest when he was 13 years old. He was a graduate of Pacific Lutheran University
Pacific Lutheran University
Pacific Lutheran University is located in Parkland, a suburb of Tacoma, Washington. In September 2009, PLU had a student population of 3,582 and approximately 280 full-time faculty...

, where he was a varsity basketball player. He earned a master's degree at Washington State University
Washington State University
Washington State University is a public research university based in Pullman, Washington, in the Palouse region of the Pacific Northwest. Founded in 1890, WSU is the state's original and largest land-grant university...

 and a doctorate at the University of Oregon
University of Oregon
-Colleges and schools:The University of Oregon is organized into eight schools and colleges—six professional schools and colleges, an Arts and Sciences College and an Honors College.- School of Architecture and Allied Arts :...

. After a short career as a college professor, he started Lute Jerstad Adventures, a trekking, river rafting and mountaineering service.

Jerstad died of a heart attack on October 31, 1998 in Nepal on Kala Patthar
Kala Patthar
Kala Patthar, meaning 'black rock' in Nepali and Hindi, is a mountain in the Nepalese Himalayas. It appears as a big brown bump below the impressive south face of Pumori . Many trekkers in the region of Mount Everest will attempt to summit Kala Patthar, since it provides the most accessible point...

, a peak that offers excellent views of Mount Everest. He was on a hike with his 12 year old grandson to introduce the boy to Himalayan travel. He was cremated in Katmandu and his ashes were buried at the Tengboche
Tengboche
Tengboche is a village in Khumjung in the Khumbu region of northeastern Nepal, located at . In the village is an important Buddhist monastery, Tengboche Monastery, which is the largest gompa in the Khumbu region. The structure was built in 1923. In 1934, it was destroyed by an earthquake but...

monastery.
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