Louis Reichardt
Encyclopedia
Louis Reichardt is a noted American mountaineer
, the first American to summit both Everest and K2
. He is also a Professor of Physiology and Biochemistry/Biophysics at UCSF, where he studies neuroscience. The character of Harold Jameson, U.C.S.F. biophysicist and mountaineer in the film K2
is based on Reichardt, though the events of his actual 1978 K2
attempt with Jim Wickwire
, bear little resemblance to the plot of the film.
from 1977 to 1980, and served as president from 1995 to 1997.
for undergraduate work (1960-1964), was a Fulbright Scholar at St. John's College, Cambridge and received a PhD in Biochemistry from Stanford University
in 1972. He was a research fellow at the University of Geneva
and Harvard Medical School
, before becoming a professor at The University of California, San Francisco. He has been Director of the UCSF Neuroscience program since 1994.
Reichardt was an investigator at Howard Hughes Medical Institute (1985-2007). He is a fellow of American Academy of Arts and Sciences.
Arthur Lander
, the UC Irvine developmental biologist, is one of his eminent students.
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
, the first American to summit both Everest and K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
. He is also a Professor of Physiology and Biochemistry/Biophysics at UCSF, where he studies neuroscience. The character of Harold Jameson, U.C.S.F. biophysicist and mountaineer in the film K2
K2 (film)
K2 is a 1991 motion picture loosely based on the story of two friends' ascent of the second-highest mountain on Earth, K2. The story is based on a play written and presented as a senior-thesis at Stanford University. These roles were played by Michael Biehn and Matt Craven...
is based on Reichardt, though the events of his actual 1978 K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
attempt with Jim Wickwire
Jim Wickwire
Jim Wickwire is a retired attorney in Seattle, Washington, most famous as the first American to reach the top of K2, the world's second-highest mountain, and then for surviving the night in the open just below the summit....
, bear little resemblance to the plot of the film.
Notable ascents and expeditions
- 1968 Abruzzi Route (substantial variation), Mount Saint EliasMount Saint EliasMount Saint Elias, also designated Boundary Peak 186, is the second highest mountain in both Canada and the United States, being situated on the Yukon and Alaska border. It lies about southwest of Mount Logan, the highest mountain in Canada. The Canadian side is part of Kluane National Park,...
, Yukon/Alaska. Fifth ascent of peak with Paul Gerhard
- 1973 Northeast Ridge DhaulagiriDhaulagiriDhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....
, Nepal. Third ascent of peak. Summit reached with John RoskelleyJohn RoskelleyJohn Roskelley is a noted mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington, and is known for his first ascents and notable ascents of 7000 and 8000 meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan.-Notable ascents:...
and Nawang Samden, May 12, 1973.
- 1976: Summit team with John RoskelleyJohn RoskelleyJohn Roskelley is a noted mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington, and is known for his first ascents and notable ascents of 7000 and 8000 meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan.-Notable ascents:...
and Jim States on Nanda DeviNanda DeviNanda Devi is the second highest mountain in India and the highest entirely within the country ; owing to this geography it was the highest known mountain in the world until computations on Dhaulagiri by western surveyors in 1808...
. Despite extreme adversity, the three were successful in reaching the summit. Tragically Nanda Devi Unsoeld died at high camp due to complications of a stomach virus and acute mountain sickness.
- 1978 Northeast Ridge/East Face and Abruzzi Ridge K2K2K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
, PakistanPakistanPakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...
. New route and third ascent of peak. Summit reached with Jim WickwireJim WickwireJim Wickwire is a retired attorney in Seattle, Washington, most famous as the first American to reach the top of K2, the world's second-highest mountain, and then for surviving the night in the open just below the summit....
on September 6, 1978. John RoskelleyJohn RoskelleyJohn Roskelley is a noted mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington, and is known for his first ascents and notable ascents of 7000 and 8000 meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan.-Notable ascents:...
and Rick RidgewayRick RidgewayRick Ridgeway is an Emmy Award-winning filmmaker, author, photographer and environmentalist, of outdoor adventure related projects from Ojai, California. Ridgeway has achieved many adventures in his life including being a member of the first American team to summit K2...
reached the summit the next day.
- 1981: As climbing leader of the 1981 American expedition to Everest, led by Richard BlumRichard C. BlumRichard C. Blum is an investment banker and the husband of United States Senator from California Dianne Feinstein. He is the Chairman and President of Blum Capital, an equity investment management firm that acts as general partner for various investment partnerships and provides investment...
, Lou Reichardt faced what must have seemed an almost insurmountable task, to chart a path up the unclimbed East face of Everest, the Kangshung Face. And for that year at least the Kangshung Face remained unclimbed. The expedition, though well financed, was torn by strife, bad weather, threat of avalanche, and illness - and the attempt at the summit abandoned.
- 1983: Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos BuhlerCarlos BuhlerCarlos Buhler is one of America's leading high altitude mountaineers. Buhler's specialty is high-standard mountaineering characterized by small teams, no oxygen, minimal gear and equipment, and relatively low amounts of funding; yielding first ascents of difficult routes in challenging...
become the first to summit the Kangshung Face of Mount EverestMount EverestMount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
American Alpine Club
Reichardt was a director of the American Alpine ClubAmerican Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club, or AAC, was founded in 1902 by Charles Ernest Fay, and is the leading national organization in the United States devoted to mountaineering, climbing, and the multitude of issues facing climbers...
from 1977 to 1980, and served as president from 1995 to 1997.
Honors and awards
Reichardt was awarded the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award by the American Alpine Club in 1993, The David Brower Conservation Award in 1997, and The Angelo Heilprin Citation in 2000.Scientific career
Reichardt went to Harvard UniversityHarvard University
Harvard University is a private Ivy League university located in Cambridge, Massachusetts, United States, established in 1636 by the Massachusetts legislature. Harvard is the oldest institution of higher learning in the United States and the first corporation chartered in the country...
for undergraduate work (1960-1964), was a Fulbright Scholar at St. John's College, Cambridge and received a PhD in Biochemistry from Stanford University
Stanford University
The Leland Stanford Junior University, commonly referred to as Stanford University or Stanford, is a private research university on an campus located near Palo Alto, California. It is situated in the northwestern Santa Clara Valley on the San Francisco Peninsula, approximately northwest of San...
in 1972. He was a research fellow at the University of Geneva
University of Geneva
The University of Geneva is a public research university located in Geneva, Switzerland.It was founded in 1559 by John Calvin, as a theological seminary and law school. It remained focused on theology until the 17th century, when it became a center for Enlightenment scholarship. In 1873, it...
and Harvard Medical School
Harvard Medical School
Harvard Medical School is the graduate medical school of Harvard University. It is located in the Longwood Medical Area of the Mission Hill neighborhood of Boston, Massachusetts....
, before becoming a professor at The University of California, San Francisco. He has been Director of the UCSF Neuroscience program since 1994.
Reichardt was an investigator at Howard Hughes Medical Institute (1985-2007). He is a fellow of American Academy of Arts and Sciences.
Arthur Lander
Arthur Lander
Arthur D. Lander, M.D., Ph.D. is Director of the Center for Complex Biological Systems at the University of California, Irvine.He was born in Brooklyn, New York, and is an alumnus of John Dewey High School there. He received a B.A. from Yale University and a combined M.D., Ph.D from the University...
, the UC Irvine developmental biologist, is one of his eminent students.