Joe Tasker
Encyclopedia
Joe Tasker was one of the most talented British climbers
during the late 1970s and early 1980s. Born into a traditional Roman Catholic family, he was one of ten children and spent his early childhood in Port Clarence
, Middlesbrough then attended Ushaw Seminary, County Durham
between the ages of 13 and 20, in training to become a Jesuit priest. Fascinated by a book recounting harrowing tales of tragic attempts to climb the North Face of the Eiger
, he started climbing in a nearby quarry in 1966.
After leaving the seminary he first worked as a dustman before studying sociology
at Manchester University. He improved his climbing skills during this time, graduating from rock climbing in Britain to harder routes in the Alps
.
His regular climbing partner was Dick Renshaw, whom he had met at university. Together they climbed the North Face of the Eiger
in the winter of 1975. This was followed later that year by the first ascent of the South-East ridge of Dunagiri
(7066m), a Himalayan
peak in the North-East corner of India
. Running out of food and fuel on the descent, they were lucky to survive, although Dick Renshaw suffered frostbite
in his fingers.
His first ascent in 1976 of the West Face of Changabang
(6864m), which neighboured Dunagiri, saw his first partnership with Peter Boardman
, and was widely acclaimed as a bold, magnificent feat of mountaineering. Both he and Boardman were invited to the K2
expedition led by Chris Bonington
in 1978, which was abandoned after Nick Estcourt
was killed in an avalanche. Following an unsuccessful attempt on Nuptse in the autumn of 1978, a small team consisting of Tasker, Boardman, and Doug Scott
made an ascent of Kangchenjunga
(at 8,598 m the third highest mountain in the world) by a new route from the North-West in 1979 (with Georges Bettembourg also on the team but not making the summit). A second attempt on K2
and a difficult Winter assault on the West Face of Everest
both ended unsuccessfully.
In 1980 he met Maria Coffey, the girlfriend who wrote about her grief following his death in Fragile Edge (ISBN 0-89886-737-1). In 1981 he was part of the British team which made the first ascent of Kongur (7,649 m) in China
, accompanied by Chris Bonington
, Peter Boardman
and Al Rouse. He disappeared with Boardman on 17 May 1982 on the North-East Ridge of Everest. The body of Peter Boardman was found in 1992, resting near the second pinnacle in the extremely difficult area of the "Three Pinnacles" on the middle north east ridge of Mt. Everest, but the body of Joe Tasker is still missing.
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
was founded in memory of the two climbers.
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
during the late 1970s and early 1980s. Born into a traditional Roman Catholic family, he was one of ten children and spent his early childhood in Port Clarence
Port Clarence
Port Clarence is a small village now within the borough of Stockton-on-Tees and ceremonial county of County Durham, England. It is situated on the north bank of the River Tees, and hosts the northern end of the Middlesbrough Transporter Bridge.-History:...
, Middlesbrough then attended Ushaw Seminary, County Durham
County Durham
County Durham is a ceremonial county and unitary district in north east England. The county town is Durham. The largest settlement in the ceremonial county is the town of Darlington...
between the ages of 13 and 20, in training to become a Jesuit priest. Fascinated by a book recounting harrowing tales of tragic attempts to climb the North Face of the Eiger
Eiger
The Eiger is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m...
, he started climbing in a nearby quarry in 1966.
After leaving the seminary he first worked as a dustman before studying sociology
Sociology
Sociology is the study of society. It is a social science—a term with which it is sometimes synonymous—which uses various methods of empirical investigation and critical analysis to develop a body of knowledge about human social activity...
at Manchester University. He improved his climbing skills during this time, graduating from rock climbing in Britain to harder routes in the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
.
His regular climbing partner was Dick Renshaw, whom he had met at university. Together they climbed the North Face of the Eiger
Eiger
The Eiger is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m...
in the winter of 1975. This was followed later that year by the first ascent of the South-East ridge of Dunagiri
Dunagiri (mountain)
Dunagiri is one of the high peaks of the Garhwal Himalayas in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand. It lies at the northwest corner of the Sanctuary Wall, a ring of peaks surrounding Nanda Devi and enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary....
(7066m), a Himalayan
Himalayas
The Himalaya Range or Himalaya Mountains Sanskrit: Devanagari: हिमालय, literally "abode of snow"), usually called the Himalayas or Himalaya for short, is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau...
peak in the North-East corner of India
India
India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world...
. Running out of food and fuel on the descent, they were lucky to survive, although Dick Renshaw suffered frostbite
Frostbite
Frostbite is the medical condition where localized damage is caused to skin and other tissues due to extreme cold. Frostbite is most likely to happen in body parts farthest from the heart and those with large exposed areas...
in his fingers.
His first ascent in 1976 of the West Face of Changabang
Changabang
Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs...
(6864m), which neighboured Dunagiri, saw his first partnership with Peter Boardman
Peter Boardman
Peter Boardman was a British climber, Everest summiteer, and author of several mountaineering books.-Early life:...
, and was widely acclaimed as a bold, magnificent feat of mountaineering. Both he and Boardman were invited to the K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
expedition led by Chris Bonington
Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL is a British mountaineer.His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest and the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna.-Early life and expeditions:Educated at University College School in...
in 1978, which was abandoned after Nick Estcourt
Nick Estcourt
Nick Estcourt , educated at Eastbourne College, was an outstanding British climber killed on K2 by an avalanche on the West Ridge route...
was killed in an avalanche. Following an unsuccessful attempt on Nuptse in the autumn of 1978, a small team consisting of Tasker, Boardman, and Doug Scott
Doug Scott
Douglas Keith Scott CBE, known as Doug Scott , is an English mountaineer noted for the first ascent of the south-west face of Mount Everest on 24 September 1975. Scott and Dougal Haston were the first Britons to climb Everest during this expedition...
made an ascent of Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
(at 8,598 m the third highest mountain in the world) by a new route from the North-West in 1979 (with Georges Bettembourg also on the team but not making the summit). A second attempt on K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
and a difficult Winter assault on the West Face of Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
both ended unsuccessfully.
In 1980 he met Maria Coffey, the girlfriend who wrote about her grief following his death in Fragile Edge (ISBN 0-89886-737-1). In 1981 he was part of the British team which made the first ascent of Kongur (7,649 m) in China
China
Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture...
, accompanied by Chris Bonington
Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL is a British mountaineer.His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest and the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna.-Early life and expeditions:Educated at University College School in...
, Peter Boardman
Peter Boardman
Peter Boardman was a British climber, Everest summiteer, and author of several mountaineering books.-Early life:...
and Al Rouse. He disappeared with Boardman on 17 May 1982 on the North-East Ridge of Everest. The body of Peter Boardman was found in 1992, resting near the second pinnacle in the extremely difficult area of the "Three Pinnacles" on the middle north east ridge of Mt. Everest, but the body of Joe Tasker is still missing.
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature is an annual prize of £3000 awarded by the Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust to an author or authors for 'an original work which has made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature.' It was established in memory of Peter Boardman and Joe...
was founded in memory of the two climbers.
External links
- Dick Renshaw's Obituary of Tasker
- Voices from the Clarences Anne Davies interviews Joe Tasker, Joe Tasker slideshow & BBC Radio Cleveland's report of Joe Tasker's death