Jean Carles
Encyclopedia
Jean Carles was a French perfumer
who worked in Roure (now part of Givaudan
) in the early 20th century. He was the founder of the Roure Perfumery School and served as its first director in 1946.
Jean Carles was also the mentor of many great perfumers including Monique Schlienger and Jacques Polge
.
Despite being completely anosmic near the end of his life, Carles continued his work as a perfumer with his condition only known by his son, Marcel Carles. He went on to create works such as Ma Griffe (Carven) and Miss Dior (Christian Dior) despite this condition. Due to this feat, he is often compared to Beethoven composing music in his deafness.
and ethyl maltol
are both compounds with sweet notes but they differ in the characteristics of their sweetness. Students would first learn by contrast down the columns of the table before proceeding horizontally in the table to study each class.
This technique is the most well known for odour memorization and understanding. It and its variants are commonly used to train perfumers entering into the field.
Perfumer
A perfumer is a term used for an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a Nose due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions...
who worked in Roure (now part of Givaudan
Givaudan
Givaudan is a Swiss manufacturer of flavorings and fragrances. As of 2008, it is the world's largest company in the industry.-Background:The company's scents and flavors are developed most often for food and beverage makers, but they are also used frequently in household goods, as well as grooming...
) in the early 20th century. He was the founder of the Roure Perfumery School and served as its first director in 1946.
Jean Carles was also the mentor of many great perfumers including Monique Schlienger and Jacques Polge
Jacques Polge
Jacques Polge is a French perfumer who works as the head of Parfums Chanel starting in 1978 to the present. He is the third director of the perfume division after Ernest Beaux and Henri Robert....
.
Despite being completely anosmic near the end of his life, Carles continued his work as a perfumer with his condition only known by his son, Marcel Carles. He went on to create works such as Ma Griffe (Carven) and Miss Dior (Christian Dior) despite this condition. Due to this feat, he is often compared to Beethoven composing music in his deafness.
Training technique
Carles also devised a training technique bearing his name (Jean Carles Method) for learning about natural and synthetic odourants. Sixty odourants and natural extracts of specific and distinctive notes are organized by classes olfactory notes (contrast) and character. For example, vanillinVanillin
Vanillin is a phenolic aldehyde, an organic compound with the molecular formula C8H8O3. Its functional groups include aldehyde, ether, and phenol. It is the primary component of the extract of the vanilla bean. It is also found in Leptotes bicolor, roasted coffee and the Chinese red pine...
and ethyl maltol
Ethyl maltol
Ethyl maltol is an organic compound that is common flavourant in some confectioneries. It is related to the more common flavorant maltol by replacement of the methyl group by an ethyl group...
are both compounds with sweet notes but they differ in the characteristics of their sweetness. Students would first learn by contrast down the columns of the table before proceeding horizontally in the table to study each class.
This technique is the most well known for odour memorization and understanding. It and its variants are commonly used to train perfumers entering into the field.
Works
His creations included:- Miss Dior (1947) Christian DiorParfums Christian DiorParfums Christian Dior is the make-up and perfumery line of Christian Dior SA, based on the company created by twentieth-century fashion designer Christian Dior. It was created in 1947 with the launch of Miss Dior perfume...
, with Paul VacherPaul vacherPaul Vacher was a French perfumer.Vacher created Le Galion fragrances, trademarked in 1936. He worked at Guerlain, among other perfume houses... - Ma Griffe (1946) Carven
- Shocking (1937) SchiaparelliElsa SchiaparelliElsa Schiaparelli was an Italian fashion designer. Along with Coco Chanel, her greatest rival, she is regarded as one of the most prominent figures in fashion between the two World Wars. Starting with knitwear, Schiaparelli's designs were heavily influenced by Surrealists like her collaborators...
- Canoe (1935) Dana
- Tabu (1932) Dana
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