Hans Gmoser
Encyclopedia
Johann Wolfgang "Hans" Gmoser, CM
(July 7, 1932 - July 5, 2006) is a founder of modern mountaineering
in Canada
. Born in Austria
in 1932, he came to Canada in 1951, and since then has been a major driving force behind the growing popularity of climbing
, skiing
and guiding
.
In the 1950s he pioneered new rock climbs, most notably Grillmair Chimneys (1952), Calgary Route (1953) - with Franz Dopf leading, and Diretissima (1957) on Yamnuska
. He made the third (and first Canadian) ascents of both Mount Alberta
(1958) and Brussels Peak (1960). He participated in what may have been the first ascent of Alaska's Mount Blackburn
in 1958, and led very successful expeditions to Mount Logan
(east ridge) in 1959, and to Mount McKinley
(Wickersham Wall) in 1963. In 1961 he climbed a difficult new route on the south face of Mount Louis
. He was described as, "a good leader. He always had plans and he did his darndest to make his dreams come true."
Gmoser was a very capable and ambitious mountain guide. For years he travelled throughout North America, presenting his films and devoting vast amounts of energy toward promoting the Canadian mountain experience. In 1963 he was a founding member of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides
(ACMG) and was its first technical chairman. In 1957 he founded Rocky Mountain Guides which eventually grew to become Canadian Mountain Holidays, the largest mountain adventure operation in the country.
Gmoser was elected an honorary member of The Alpine Club of Canada
(1986), was awarded the Order of Canada
(1987), received the Banff Mountain Film Festival
Summit of Excellence award (1989), was elected to the Honour Roll of Canadian Skiing (1989), was named an honorary member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association
(1992), and in 1997 was elected Honorary President of the ACMG
.
Order of Canada
The Order of Canada is a Canadian national order, admission into which is, within the system of orders, decorations, and medals of Canada, the second highest honour for merit...
(July 7, 1932 - July 5, 2006) is a founder of modern mountaineering
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
in Canada
Canada
Canada is a North American country consisting of ten provinces and three territories. Located in the northern part of the continent, it extends from the Atlantic Ocean in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west, and northward into the Arctic Ocean...
. Born in Austria
Austria
Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country of roughly 8.4 million people in Central Europe. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the...
in 1932, he came to Canada in 1951, and since then has been a major driving force behind the growing popularity of climbing
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
, skiing
Skiing
Skiing is a recreational activity using skis as equipment for traveling over snow. Skis are used in conjunction with boots that connect to the ski with use of a binding....
and guiding
Guide
A guide is a person who leads anyone through unknown or unmapped country. This includes a guide of the real world , as well as a person who leads someone to more abstract places .-Guide - meanings related to travel and recreational pursuits:There are many variants of...
.
In the 1950s he pioneered new rock climbs, most notably Grillmair Chimneys (1952), Calgary Route (1953) - with Franz Dopf leading, and Diretissima (1957) on Yamnuska
Mount John Laurie
Mount John Laurie is a mountain in the Canadian Rockies, located in the province of Alberta, Canada.While it is officially named Mount John Laurie, also known as Mount Laurie, it is best known now by the native name Mount Yamnuska, or simply Yamnuska...
. He made the third (and first Canadian) ascents of both Mount Alberta
Mount Alberta
Mount Alberta is a mountain located in the upper Athabasca River Valley of Jasper National Park, Canada. J. Norman Collie named the mountain in 1898 after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta.Mount Alberta is the sixth highest peak of the Canadian Rockies...
(1958) and Brussels Peak (1960). He participated in what may have been the first ascent of Alaska's Mount Blackburn
Mount Blackburn
Mount Blackburn is the highest peak in the Wrangell Mountains of Alaska in the United States. It is the fifth highest peak in the United States and the twelfth highest peak in North America. The mountain is an old, eroded shield volcano, the second highest volcano in the United States behind Mount...
in 1958, and led very successful expeditions to Mount Logan
Mount Logan
Mount Logan is the highest mountain in Canada and the second-highest peak in North America, after Mount McKinley . The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada . Mount Logan is located within Kluane National Park and...
(east ridge) in 1959, and to Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska, United States is the highest mountain peak in North America and the United States, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve.- Geology and features :Mount McKinley is a granitic pluton...
(Wickersham Wall) in 1963. In 1961 he climbed a difficult new route on the south face of Mount Louis
Mount Louis
Mount Louis is a mountain located in southeast Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. It is part of the Sawback Range.The mountain was named in 1886 after Louis B. Stewart....
. He was described as, "a good leader. He always had plans and he did his darndest to make his dreams come true."
Gmoser was a very capable and ambitious mountain guide. For years he travelled throughout North America, presenting his films and devoting vast amounts of energy toward promoting the Canadian mountain experience. In 1963 he was a founding member of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides
These initials may also mean the American College of Medical Genetics.The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides is Canada's only internationally recognised guide association. The Association has over 700 members, and coordinates internationally recognised training and certification...
(ACMG) and was its first technical chairman. In 1957 he founded Rocky Mountain Guides which eventually grew to become Canadian Mountain Holidays, the largest mountain adventure operation in the country.
Gmoser was elected an honorary member of The Alpine Club of Canada
Alpine Club of Canada
The Alpine Club of Canada is a mountain club with a National Office in Canmore, Alberta that has been a focal point for Canadian mountaineering since its founding in 1906. The club was co-founded by Arthur Oliver Wheeler, who served as its first president, and Elizabeth Parker, a journalist for...
(1986), was awarded the Order of Canada
Order of Canada
The Order of Canada is a Canadian national order, admission into which is, within the system of orders, decorations, and medals of Canada, the second highest honour for merit...
(1987), received the Banff Mountain Film Festival
Banff Mountain Film Festival
The Banff Mountain Film Festival is an international film competition and an annual presentation of short films and documentaries about mountain culture, sports, and environment. It was launched in 1976 as The Banff Festival of Mountain Films by The Banff Centre and is held every fall in Banff,...
Summit of Excellence award (1989), was elected to the Honour Roll of Canadian Skiing (1989), was named an honorary member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association
UIAGM
The Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes is the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, known alternatively by its French, German and English abbreviations:...
(1992), and in 1997 was elected Honorary President of the ACMG
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides
These initials may also mean the American College of Medical Genetics.The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides is Canada's only internationally recognised guide association. The Association has over 700 members, and coordinates internationally recognised training and certification...
.