Hans Christian Doseth
Encyclopedia
Hans Christian Doseth was a Norwegian climber. Doseth followed the standards of modern big wall climbing
through many first ascents in Europe
and the Himalayas. Among his achievements were several first ascents of routes on Trollveggen (Troll Wall
), Romsdal's north facing big wall, both in winter and summer. He did the first all-free ascent of the wall in 1979 (the "Rimmon Route"), and the first winter ascent of the "Swedish Route" (1980). Most notable was his first free ascent of the technically difficult "Trollkjerringruta" (the Troll's Wife) in winter (1982), followed by the free ascent in summer 1983. Though moderately graded by today’s standards (Norw. grade 7, French grade 6c+), it is a demanding, serious climb through partly loose and poorly protected rock that up to this day has seen only two or three repeats. Doseth also increased awareness of sport climbing in Northern Europe, introducing routes in the 5.12
range (French 7b/c) in Norway and Sweden in the early 80s.
Doseth was killed together with his climbing partner Finn Dæhli during an expedition with Stein P. Aasheim and Dag Kolsrud on Great Trango Tower in Karakoram
, Pakistan, after establishing the Norwegian Buttress, the first route to scale the massive east face of the mountain.
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
through many first ascents in Europe
Europe
Europe is, by convention, one of the world's seven continents. Comprising the westernmost peninsula of Eurasia, Europe is generally 'divided' from Asia to its east by the watershed divides of the Ural and Caucasus Mountains, the Ural River, the Caspian and Black Seas, and the waterways connecting...
and the Himalayas. Among his achievements were several first ascents of routes on Trollveggen (Troll Wall
Troll Wall
The Troll Wall is part of the mountain massif Trolltindene in the Romsdalen valley, near Åndalsnes and Molde, on the Norwegian west coast. Trollveggen is part of the Reinheimen National Park in the municipality of Rauma in Møre og Romsdal county. The Troll Wall is the tallest vertical rock face...
), Romsdal's north facing big wall, both in winter and summer. He did the first all-free ascent of the wall in 1979 (the "Rimmon Route"), and the first winter ascent of the "Swedish Route" (1980). Most notable was his first free ascent of the technically difficult "Trollkjerringruta" (the Troll's Wife) in winter (1982), followed by the free ascent in summer 1983. Though moderately graded by today’s standards (Norw. grade 7, French grade 6c+), it is a demanding, serious climb through partly loose and poorly protected rock that up to this day has seen only two or three repeats. Doseth also increased awareness of sport climbing in Northern Europe, introducing routes in the 5.12
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
range (French 7b/c) in Norway and Sweden in the early 80s.
Doseth was killed together with his climbing partner Finn Dæhli during an expedition with Stein P. Aasheim and Dag Kolsrud on Great Trango Tower in Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...
, Pakistan, after establishing the Norwegian Buttress, the first route to scale the massive east face of the mountain.
External links
Literature
- Bø, Bjarte and Anne Grete Nebell, Klatring i Romsdal, 1999.
- Stein P. Aasheim, Trango – triumf og tragedie, Scanbok, 1985