Großes Teufelshorn
Encyclopedia
The Teufelshörner are pair of mountains on the German-Austrian border in the Berchtesgaden Alps
Berchtesgaden Alps
The Berchtesgaden Alps are a mountain range of the Northern Limestone Alps, named after the market town of Berchtesgaden located in the centre...

. The two peaks, which form a mountain ridge, are the Großer Teufelshorn ("Great Devil's Horn") and the Kleiner Teufelshorn ("Little Devil's Horn").

Situation

The Großer Teufelshorn is the higher and more northerly summit of the two Teufelshörner and the highest peak in the Hagengebirge, a part of the Berchtesgaden Alps
Berchtesgaden Alps
The Berchtesgaden Alps are a mountain range of the Northern Limestone Alps, named after the market town of Berchtesgaden located in the centre...

.

The Kleiner Teufelshorn is the lower summit and lies southwest of the Großer Teufelshorn.

The two Teufelshörner rise up between the basin of the Bavarian Röth
Roth
- Places :* Roth , in Bavaria** Roth, Bavaria, capital of that district* Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany:** Roth an der Our, in the district Bitburg-Prüm** Roth bei Prüm, in the district Bitburg-Prüm** Roth, Altenkirchen, in the district of Altenkirchen...

 and the Austrian Blühnbach valley, both are extremely remote. Due to its long approach, the Großer Teufelshorn is only rarely climbed. A summit cross
Summit cross
A summit cross is a cross on the summit of a mountain or hill that marks the top. Often there will be a "summit register" at the cross, either in a container or at least a weatherproof case....

 stands on its highest point stands and it offers a good all-round view which takes in, the Hochkönig, Watzmann
Watzmann
The Watzmann is the third highest mountain in Germany, and the highest peak standing entirely within Germany. Its three main peaks are Hocheck , Mittelspitze and Südspitze .The Watzmann massive also includes the...

 and Tennengebirge
Tennengebirge
The Tennengebirge is a small, but rugged, mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps, which lies in front of the Eastern Alps for its entire length. It is a very heavily karstified high plateau, about 60 km² in area, with many caves...

 amongst others.

The Teufelshörner are joined by a rocky knife-edge that marks the border between the state of Salzburg and the district of Berchtesgadener Land in Bavaria
Bavaria
Bavaria, formally the Free State of Bavaria is a state of Germany, located in the southeast of Germany. With an area of , it is the largest state by area, forming almost 20% of the total land area of Germany...

. A climbing route runs along the challenging rocky ridge (UIAA grade II), which is neither marked nor secured and should therefore only be attempted by experienced climbers.

Ascent

The normal route starts at the Salet restaurant, which is only accessible after a one-hour boat journey over the lake of Königssee
Königssee
The Königssee is a lake located in the extreme southeast Berchtesgadener Land district of the German state of Bavaria, near the border with Austria...

. It then runs up to the Obersee at the head of the valley called Fischunkel, where the impressive Röthbach Waterfall rushes downhill. It then runs along the partly secured Röthsteig climbing very steeply and zig-zagging frequently up to the Wasseralm, a basic Alpine Club hut
Alpine club hut
Alpine club huts or simply club huts form the majority of the over 1,300 mountain huts in the Alps and are maintained by branches, or sections, of the various alpine clubs.- Purpose and facilities :...

 that has been managed in the summer months since 2005 and lies at a height of . Here it is usual to stop for the night, because the whole climb is too long and strenuous to attempt in a day. The route continues on an easy path through the Röth
Roth
- Places :* Roth , in Bavaria** Roth, Bavaria, capital of that district* Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany:** Roth an der Our, in the district Bitburg-Prüm** Roth bei Prüm, in the district Bitburg-Prüm** Roth, Altenkirchen, in the district of Altenkirchen...

to a fork in the path at 1,650 m.

Ascent of the Großer Teufelshorn

To reach the top of the Großer Teufelshorn, the route turns left at the fork and climbs a steep, very narrow path. The final section involves several easy climbing passages, but surefootedness and a head for heights are absolutely necessary.
Using the normal route summit of the Teufelshorn may be reached in 6 to 7 hours from the Obersee.

Ascent of the Kleiner Teufelshorn

To climb the Kleiner Teufelshorn the route continues straight on at the fork - surefootedness and a head for heights being needed. The summit of the Kleiner Teufelshorn can be reached in 5 to 6 hours from the lake of Obersee.
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