Art Gilkey
Encyclopedia
Art Gilkey (1926 – 1953) was an American geologist and mountaineer. He explored Alaska in 1950 and 1952. He died during a 1953 American expedition
Third American Karakoram Expedition
The 1953 American Karakoram Expedition was a mountaineering expedition to K2, at 8,611 metres the second highest mountain on Earth. It was the fifth expedition to attempt K2, and the first since the Second World War...

 to K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...

. Approaching the summit of the peak, he suffered from thrombophlebitis
Thrombophlebitis
Thrombophlebitis is phlebitis related to a thrombus . When it occurs repeatedly in different locations, it is known as "Thrombophlebitis migrans" or "migrating thrombophlebitis".-Signs and symptoms:...

 (blood clots in the leg) or possibly deep venous thrombosis, followed by pulmonary embolism
Pulmonary embolism
Pulmonary embolism is a blockage of the main artery of the lung or one of its branches by a substance that has travelled from elsewhere in the body through the bloodstream . Usually this is due to embolism of a thrombus from the deep veins in the legs, a process termed venous thromboembolism...

. During an attempt by his fellow climbers (including Charles Houston
Charles Snead Houston
-References:-External links:* - Daily Telegraph obituary* Independent obituary, 1 October 2009.-Notes:...

 and Pete Schoening
Pete Schoening
Peter K. Schoening was an American mountaineer. Schoening was one of two Americans to first successfully climb the Pakistani peak Gasherbrum I in 1958, and was one of the first to summit Mount Vinson in Antarctica in 1966. He was born July 30, 1927, in Seattle, Washington, and grew up in...

) to bring him down the mountain while wrapped in a sleeping bag, he slid downhill and disappeared, probably swept away by an avalanche
Avalanche
An avalanche is a sudden rapid flow of snow down a slope, occurring when either natural triggers or human activity causes a critical escalating transition from the slow equilibrium evolution of the snow pack. Typically occurring in mountainous terrain, an avalanche can mix air and water with the...

, although it is also conjectured that he untied himself from the ropes to spare his team-mates from further risk on his behalf. His remains were discovered in 1993, melting out of the glacier at the base of the south face of K2.

K2 Memorial

The current memorial to deceased climbers situated below K2 was originally built for, and named after, Art Gilkey.
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